SIA Acc. 96-099, Blackwelder, Richard E, Richard E. Blackwelder Papers, 1926-1964

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Summary

Creator:
Blackwelder, Richard E
Title:
Richard E. Blackwelder Papers, 1926-1964
Data Source:
Smithsonian Institution Archives
Dates:
1926, 1926-1964
Summary:
Richard E. Blackwelder received a doctorate in entomology from Stanford University in 1934. The following year he received the Walter Rathbone Bacon Traveling Scholarship, which enabled him to conduct field work on the beetles of the West Indies from 1935 to 1938. These papers consist of journals from Blackwelder's field work in the West Indies while he was recipient of the Walter Rathbone Bacon Traveling Scholarship (1935-1938); journals of his wife, Ruth M. Blackwelder, from the same period; notebooks from his research in museums in the United States and England; a notebook listing species in his personal collection; and another notebook.
Topic:
Entomology
Subjects:
Blackwelder, Ruth M, Blackwelder, Richard E, Walter Rathbone Bacon Travelling Scholarship Expedition (1928-1930: West Indies)
Form/Genre:
Black-and-white photographs, Collection descriptions, Manuscripts
Local Number:
SIA Acc. 96-099
Physical Description:
1 cu. ft. (1 record storage box)

Finding Aids to Personal Papers and Special Collections in the Smithsonian Institution Archives

Accession 96-099

Blackwelder, Richard E

Richard E. Blackwelder Papers, 1926-1964

Repository: Smithsonian Institution Archives, Washington, D.C. Contact us at osiaref@si.edu.
Creator: Blackwelder, Richard E
Title: Richard E. Blackwelder Papers
Dates: 1926-1964
Quantity: 1 cu. ft. (1 record storage box)
Collection: Accession 96-099
Language of Materials: English

Descriptive Entry

Richard Eliot Blackwelder (1909- ) is an entomologist specializing in the study of beetles. He was awarded the Walter Rathbone Bacon Travelling Scholarship of the Smithsonian Institution to conduct field work in the West Indies from 1935 to 1938. This accession consists of journals, field notes, and notebooks documenting Blackwelder's career as an entomologist. Materials include his journals from the Bacon Scholarship field work in the West Indies; journals of his wife, Ruth M. Blackwelder, from the same trips; notebooks from his research in museums in the United States and England; a notebook listing species in his personal collection; a notebook containing recollections onentomologists met by Blackwelder; a journal kept on field trips to the American west, 1960, 1962, 1964; and an album of photographs from his field work in the West Indies. For field notes from Blackwelder's West Indies work see Record Unit 7156.

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This collection is indexed under the following access terms. These are links to collections with related topics, persons or places.

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Subject

Physical Characteristics of Materials in the Collection

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Preferred Citation

Smithsonian Institution Archives, Accession 96-099, Blackwelder, Richard E, Richard E. Blackwelder Papers

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Container List

Box 1

Journal of Ruth M. Blackwelder, West Indies, 1935-1937 (5 volumes)

Box 1 of 1

Journal of Richard E. Blackwelder, West Indies, 1935-1937 (6 volumes)

Box 1 of 1

Museum Notes (western), 1947-1948 (2 volumes)

Box 1 of 1

Museum Notes (eastern), 1934-1942

Box 1 of 1

British Museum Notes, 1937

Box 1 of 1

Blackwelder Collection, list of species

Box 1 of 1

Entomologists, 1926-1947. Contains Blackwelder's reflections on fellow entomologists

Box 1 of 1

Journal from field trips to the American west, 1960, 1962, 1964

Box 1 of 1

Photograph album from West Indies field work, 1935-1937

Box 1 of 1

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[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 1 [[/preprinted]] [[underline]] Jamaica [[/underline]] * July 27, 1935 After a very pleasant trip down on the s.s. Ioloa we arrived in Jamaica. At 8:30 in the morning, while the baggage was being unloaded, I stood on the sunny side of the ship, and it was then far too hot to stay long. The customs officials were very nice and passed our baggage without inspection - we had however declared our possessions and Dick paid a deposit on his collecting equipment. After a short conversation with the porter of South Camp Road Hotel we decided to try it for the night (rate 34 shillings for both of us for a room without bath and 3 meals, this for one day ). We were put in the care of a taxi driver - Adrian Roberts, who duly informed us that we would probably be more comfortable with a private family - a fact of which we were well aware - and he had one to suggest. He said it was located across the street from the hotel and he would drive us by so that we could look at it. It was a very homey looking house set well back from the street with a lovely green lawn at one side - most inviting. However, we went to the South Camp Hotel [[line]] * Copied from original by REB.
[[preprinted]] 2 [[/preprinted]] and registered for the day, what was left of it, and night. We had 3 meals there which were quite satisfactory except for Dick finding charcoal dust on one plate and 2 weevils in the Grape Nuts. The hotel owned a cat - ordinary variety - by the name of Billy - as usual Dick played with it. It took several day for us to get over the sea legs we had acquired, and in my case I believe it was more troublesome than the boat. To go back to living quarters. Before noon we went back to the docks but for all Dick's wanting to, we didn't get to see them unload the motor. Maybe it is best, because he treats that newly added possession in a most paternal manner. It may be somewhat different after the novelty has worn off. At lunch time we got a little hungry so we started off in the direction of the hotel - and were lucky enough to get Adrian to drive us to 9 Norman Road - the place he had suggested. We went in and met Miss Irene Magnus who showed us what we were to get for our money (first price quoted was 5 guineas and 15 [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 3 [[/preprinted]] shillings - £6). Our room is a separate wing of the house about 17 x 14 not including a large bay window. We have 5 windows and 2 doors, one leading to the outside and one into a hall. Diagram below. Very poor idea but one which will serve to stimulate my memory. [[image - on left hand side of page a sketch of the floor plan of the room]] Final price arrangement - £5. 10s a week. July 4, 1935. Today is July 4th and one would never know that such a thing as a fire cracker existed. However, I went to town and found most of the shops closed - the reason not being the 4th of July (what true son of Britain would ever celebrate that) - due to the fact that yesterday was the usual half day holiday, but the Queen of Bermuda was in port and the stores stayed open for the tourist trade. Then they took the holiday today. I went down to have my hair waved as we are going to a cocktail party tomorrow. The cost of setting and neck trim was 4 shillings. I took a taxi down and instead of telling him where I was going I merely gave street and number.
[[preprinted]] 4 [[/preprinted]] He had a devil of a time finding the place and when he at last drew up in front of the place of business he said "Had you said you were going to Miss Workley's Beauty shop I would have taken you there at once, we never use street numbers - only business names." While in the beauty parlor, I heard a fellow customer remark that the B.O. of the Jamaica negro was 100% worse than that of the African Kafir - and I have heard that they could be smelled 1/2 miles away! As far as I'm concerned the above is an exaggeration. The only time I have noticed much odor is when one has been working hard and perspiring freely. In that same circumstance I myself have far from heavenly fragrance - especially so, as onions are quite a staple of food in these parts. I took the street car home, the fare was 2d, for which one receives a punched ticket entitling one to a ride as far as the punch indicates. To get off the car one must catch the eye of the conductor, point to the corner, and he then pulls the bell card. The cars are open on both sides, short of body, and operated on a trolley. A speed [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 5 [[/preprinted]] of over 15 miles an hour causes such swaying and jumping of the car that the motorman is forced to slow down so as not to be thrown from the controls. July 6, 1935. Yesterday was at once a busy day and one composed of long waits. It took a turn to the heat and this made work almost out of the question. What is more the Misses Magnus were having a party in the afternoon which was given by Mr. Martin whom I believe is both consul of Haiti and Venezuela. There were a great many people invited, and although we had been told that the party was to begin at 5:30 a great many of the guests began to arrive about 5 o'clock. Dick and I watched the arrivals from our windows and we got many a laugh out of the comic Valentine effects of the ladies. A great many of the fashions were a conglomerate mixture of gay 90's with a present day topping - just to make the effect more comic. However, there were also a number of very nicely dressed ladies, and how they stood out in the crowd!
[[preprinted]] 6 [[/preprinted]] A band was engaged to play, and of all the awful sounds which manage to squeal forth from one or two horns those were the worst. One couldn't tell "Yankee Doodle" from "God Save the King". It was pretty awful, but the guests seemed to bear it quite well. I'm told that after we left they were persuaded to stop and some young man played the piano for the guests. If he was the same young man who played in the early afternoon, he was indeed good. In the morning Dick had gone to see Mr. Armstrong the Amer. Consul and was duly informed that we came very near being invited to a cocktail party - had Mr. A. been able to get in touch with us - given to celebrate the 4th of July. Dick, with his usual love of such functions was just as glad they missed out on us. Last evening we had a delightful time at a cocktail party given by Mr. & Mrs. W. Edwards of Hope Gardens. We met any number of interesting people and I had a slight opportunity of tuning up on my French with Mrs. Edwards. One of the first ladies I met was Mrs. Bonell - who was later to give us a very cordial [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 7 [[/preprinted]] invitation - and her daughter Marjorie (a sweet young girl). They have a sugar plantation which we will visit next Tuesday. Marjorie Bonell introduced me to Mr. & Mrs. Lockhart (?) who were very nice. They had been in Berkeley in 1921 on an exchange professorship in College of Agriculture, and later they went to Nevada where they were until 1924. I believe they have been here 8 years. She is slightly crippled but at the same time one of the most charming women I met. Mr. Barnes, Director of Agriculture came over and introduced himself. He too was very nice. Mrs. Smith whose husband is a Micro-biologist sat down and chatted. She is typically English. I didn't get a chance to meet Miss Monica Nixon of the Jamaica Auto Assn. until the very last. She invited me to come down and look around, and I shall do just that very thing one of these days. Dr. Saunders and his wife were also introduced. He is working for the Rockefeller Foundation on the tropical disease called yaws. Dr. Coombs is working with him and attempting to trace the disease to a fly which is commonly found where yaws is most prevalent. He said that the Jamaica Gov't.
[[preprinted]] 8 [[/preprinted]] was most helpful to this kind of research and had given him aid in establishing and maintaining his 2 or 3 traveling clinics. Many of the doctors working for the clinics are native Jamaicans but all of them good doctors. We were invited to come down and see the laboratory on Duke street and we were invited to go to the country with them one of these days. Mrs. Bonell invited us to drive to Cross Roads with her, and as there was no tram when we got there she insisted on driving us home. She has also given us an invitation to visit her plantation next Tuesday. She is a very likable person – not the least bit of show or put on and her honest straightforward manner is so refreshing. She drives a car at a good rate of speed and somewhat as if she were making a business of it. Her daughter, as I've said before, is very nice. I've rather neglected telling of the family where we are staying so I'll do so now. There are six sisters of them. Irene does the housekeeping and takes care of the boarders. Jessie is the garden lover - and a darling. Minnie makes the cakes [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 9 [[/preprinted]] and supervises the servants – that is a job too! Blanche does the buying, that is marketing, and she helps the cook prepare the food. Marie works downtown at an auto agency – the Standard and Studebaker – and Amy is practically an invalid because of asthma. There they are, 6 of them and not a one married, and as Jessie says "Not for the want of asking". They all seem to get along well and each is quite different from the others – no lack of individuality! They were raised and educated here – rather contrary to English custom – but they have been to the U.S. Jessie Marie and Amy were up to Boston a few months ago and Amy was operated on for sinus. Jessie loved it there, and she gets a lot of fun out of talking to me about the U.S. Today I discovered something which rather surprised me but had I given it much previous thought would not have seemed so surprising after all. Hanging over one of the doors in the dining room is a piece of square matter (substance) which looked somewhat familiar, yet with which I was not well acquainted. Had I stopped to analyze it at anytime I had looked at it, I would
[[pre-printed]] 10 [[/pre-printed]] have come to the correct conclusion of what it was. Anyway in the course of our conversation with Mr. Moody, the other lodger, he said in a hushed tone "That's Passover Bread". The surprise to me, was more in the discovery that our landladies were at least of Jewish origin, rather than in knowing what the object was. They certainly are not Orthodox Jews, but then I always have thought the English Jew a superior specimen of the race. Then again I may be wrong - the Passover bread may be an accident - they certainly haven't any Jewish earmarks that I can see as yet. The only thing which leads me to believe the Jewish part is the name, and the hushed way Mr. Moody mentioned it. He being a Wesleyan Methodist it might have been natural for him to speak of Jews in hushed tones! The various calls of the vendors passing along the street are both amusing and interesting. This afternoon I heard the best of the lot. The man selling Blue Ribbon Ice Cream seemed to use "Marching Thru Georgia" as his call. He whistled each note (and not every note of the piece - only the most outstanding ones) precisely [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 11 [[/pre-printed]] and separately with no sluring over at all. The effect was distinctive and pleasing. Another call is the fish woman's. She calls Feesh ---- Feesh, Feesh, Feesh (something as we would say Chick, Chick, Chick). To go back to the family. They eat in a separate dining room off the main room where Mr. Moody, Dick & I eat. At first I thought it might be because they thought it wasn't proper for landlady to eat with her boarders, but as far as I can figure out they do so because it is more convenient to them. They can have their own food whenever and however they please. Usually they eat dinner early about 6:15 while we do not eat until 7. They have been very good and kind to us and Minnie ("Miss B too!") is always on the lookout for things which will please Dick. That is, she frequently asks me about his preferences, and then as an afterthought about mine. It seems difficult to realize that a family which has as many modern things as an all wave radio (newest style), gas range, and automobile would be without the convenience of hot running water. Gas is used for some of the cooking, and it seems that it would be a simple matter to install a hot water heater.
[[preprinted]] 12 [[/preprinted]] Charcoal is also used for cooking. In fact the kitchen which is away from the house uses charcoal entirely. The gas stove is in the pantry and is used only once in a while for quick cooking. July 12, 1935. After reading over the above part, and having since found out a few other things about the house, I find that one can write about what one knows and still not know it all. Day before yesterday Minnie showed me the other bathroom in the house - the one referred to as "Marie's" - which is just off Marie's room. It is a little jewel as such things go. The whole color scheme is green - and even the fixtures - and she has a gas hot water heater in her room. All of which goes to prove that some people want and have modern conveniences. Tuesday we had a most interesting day. We paid a visit - rather spent the day - with the Bonell family at Caymanas Estates Ltd. Mr Bonell is manager of the Estates, And altho the Estates are a company, a good part of the stock is owned by a Mr. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 13 [[/preprinted]] Crum-Ewing and family, and the Bonell family. Mr. Bonell is an incessant worker and judging from his tirelessness I would say that Mrs. Bonell was right when she said that he had made the Estates what they are today. They have been there 15 years. Mrs. Bonell was born and raised in Barbados. She is a blunt hearty person without the least bit of pose in her makeup. She is generous to the nth degree, and it is most impossible to refuse her hospitality. She too has her work. She used to help her husband on the Estates and she worked as long and hard as he, besides that she kept the books and records. Some years ago she invested some of her money in another property so as to help save it for a friend, and ever since she has been working to make it a paying proposition. (This is a bare outline.) She has done a great deal to help the British "Tommies" who are here, stationed at Up Park Camp, and due to her efforts they have some fun and wholesome amusement. Her theory is, that if they are kept amused in a wholesome way they will avoid bad influences, but unless the decent people of the town take an interest in them they will go to the saloons and brothels for their
[[pre-printed]] 14 [[/pre-printed]] amusement. They come out here for two years, young boys in their early 20's - maybe younger - many times it is their first post and it is no wonder that they grow homesick for some other amusement and companionship than that offered by their fellow soldiers. The people of the town - the white petty officials together with their wives and daughters - look down on Tommies as not being fit to associate with, because a few have managed to give them all a bad name. Mrs. Bonnell believes that the % of "rotters" would be even smaller if the whites took some effort to amuse the boys. She admits that in every 100 men there are bound to be a small number who just can't be decent, but she feels that the majority of those she works with deserve better treatment than they receive. She has planned a picnic and day's outing for the 27th and she has asked us to go along. Marjorie Bonnell is, I believe, the only daughter. She was educated at St. Andrews in Scotland and took her degree in Botany. However, she is now doing experiments with manure on cane and bananas for the Estates. She has done some school teaching and for [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 15 [[/pre-printed]] a while was bookkeeper at one of the farms of the Estates. The reason she lost this latter job was because certain people in Jamaica filled Mr. Crum-Ewing's mind with talk of that not being a suitable job for a woman - most all bookkeepers are men - and he, with the proverbial Englishman's "love of good form", insisted that her father dismiss her. From all I've heard of Crum-Ewing I imagine him with something of the English landed gentleman attitude. He spends a great deal of his time in England. To go back to Marjorie. She works hard, yet she seems completely engrossed with her work. She took the day off to show us around the estates. The first thing we visited was the new factory which is in process of construction. It is a huge building which when completed will be made of corrugated iron (commonly called zinc plates out here. I really don't know what the metal is, but the paint looks as if it might have zinc in it.). Very little of the machinery has been put in but we saw where the various pieces were to go. The bagging room was almost completed and it looked almost as large as the present factory.
[[pre-printed]] 16 [[/pre-printed]] By the time we had done this it was time for lunch so we got in the Ford V-8 roadster and drove up the hill to the house. Before I go further I want to tell of how we got to the Estates. We hired Oscar Orlando Grey - a boy who usually drives Mr. Moody - to drive us a little beyond the 8 mile post on the Spanish Town road. The fare was to be 8 shillings. The ordinary charges are 6d a mile - we have to pay for the return trip. Well, after we turned off the main road it was at least another two miles to the factory, so we decided to give him the extra 2 shillings. On the way out we stopped at Tom Cringle's Cotton Tree. - a perfectly huge thing - where we were approached by the usual vendors trying to sell souvenirs. The tree is at least 20 feet thru - not counting the huge "flying buttresses" which jut out 4 or 5 feet on several sides. July 14, 1935 We had lunch with Marjorie and Mrs. Bonnell at their home on top of a hill over-looking the Estates. Without a doubt it is one of the most beautiful country [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 17 [[/pre-printed]] vistas I have ever seen. The tall green cane looks like meadows of green grass, when looked down on from such a height. The house is about 500 feet from the valley floor. The grass green is cut up here and there with coconut and banana groves, (usually called banana walks). In the distance one can see Kingston and a part of the valley which goes up Constant Spring way. Winding along the low range of mountains on the north side (the range runs NW to SE) is the Rio Cobre - miscalled many times "Rio Cobre River". A good part of the bay can also be seen. In the extreme background are the Blue Mts. and on a clear day one can see the Blue Mountain peaks. The road going up to the Bonnell residence is quite good, and along one stretch are pieces of rock which look to be of volcanic origin (Mr. Edwards said that they were honey-combed limestone, but he doesn't claim to be an authority). After lunch we went down to the ^[[insertion]] old [[/insertion]] factory (called that way even before it is discarded). It was not in operation, and all the bagging had been done except one very small mound. However we got a very good idea of the
[[pre-printed]] 18 [[/pre-printed]] various steps in sugar making as we could inspect the machines closely. The cane is brought up from the fields in ox carts, right to the foot of a conveyor belt which carries it up to the first set of rollers which rolls it and cuts it until it is in coarse pieces. The cane is any way from 1 year to 18 months old when it is declared fit for manufacture. There are 3 sets of rollers each one squeezes the pulp a little finer and in the case of the last roller a fine spray plays on the cane so as to give it more moisture with which to take out the [[strikethrough]] juice [[/strikethrough]] other juice. The juices fall into a trough which carries them to settling vats, and the now almost dry cane is carried on belts to the furnace to be burnt. In the days when rum was made on the Estates this cane was further treated with water - rum is really a bi-product of sugar - but now there is no use for it except burning. The Estates no longer manufacture rum as they joined the Rum Pool to help keep up the price of rum. They in turn limit the supply, by not manufacturing, yet they share in the [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 19 [[/pre-printed]] profits of the Pool. In the settling vats the juice is mixed with lime to bring the impurities to the top in a scum, which is removed. This is rarely done at Caymanas Estates due to the fine quality of the cane. From the vats the sugar goes to the boilers, of which there are 4. [[margin]] ? [[/margin]] In the base of each boiler is set holes to catch the heavy material which is boiled out. The vapor and lighter water goes over to the next boiler to be subjected to greater pressure. The last boiler is where they test the molasses. The last step is the bagging of the raw sugar. They do no refining at the Caymanas Estates as the do not think it pays. They make a better profit selling the sugar locally and not having to worry about shipping and refinery. However in the new factory they have left a space for a small refinery if they should ever need it. From the factory we went for a drive over the Estates. We drove over Dawkins (the estate previously was owned by Col. Dawkins) Caymanas first. There we saw several fields of cane which had been burnt off. After the cane is harvested the rest of the stubble and
[[preprinted]] 20 [[/preprinted]] trash which is left is burnt off, and the new cane comes up from the roots of the old. This burning and regrowth is done only two or three times as the quality of the cane diminishes about 50% after the burning. Each estate has its village and when cane field burning is taking place the whole village must turn out and help keep the fire under control. They are paid for this. The cane is cut back about 3 feet from the boarders of the field, as the first precaution. Then all villagers are armed with sacks and other fire fighting apparatus, and it is their duty to put out any sparks which may fly out of bounds. The total fire fighting area is about 20 feet because there is usually a road running between [[blue pen strikethrough]] each [[/strikethrough]] [[blue pen insertion]] the [[/insertion]] field [[blue pen insertion]] s [[/insertion]] and an irrigation ditch along each side of [[blue pen strikethrough]] that [[/strikethrough]] [[blue pen insertion]] the road [[/insertion]]. The heat made by burning a cane field must be terrific - because in spite of precautions taken, many a coconut palm seems to have been scarred by flames. If one of those fires ever got out of control it could do unlimited damage to the surrounding fields. After the burning, the field is allowed to remain as it is with a good soaking [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 21 [[/preprinted]] [[top half of page blank]] of water being put on every day or so. Every 4 rows a deep trough is hoed and into these troughs the irrigation water flows. The canes grow on the creeks, [[blue pen insertion]] ( [[/insertion]] which are about 6 inches wide [[blue pen insertion]] ) [[/insertion]] after the furrows have been plowed. The plowing is not done until the green shoots are up 4 or 5 inches. At the time of plowing some fertilization is done. The plowing is all done by oxen. At Dawkins Caymanas we met Mr. Stevens who is one of the bookkeepers for the Estates - which farm I am not sure. We met Paul Bonell too and much later Mr. Collingswood. In the course of the afternoon we went thru many banana walks and along the Rio Cobre - one place along here was swarming
[[preprinted]] 22 [[/preprinted]] with mosquitoes - in search of suitable collecting places for Dick. One place where we forded the river we could see women beating the clothes on rocks. We saw trees afflicted with Panama Disease (P.D.) and even ate a ripe banana from one of the diseased trees. July 16, 1935 After four o'clock we went up to the house for tea, which we had on the veranda. About 4:45 we started home in Mrs. Bonell's car - leaving Marjorie at the office. I thought that Mrs. B. would most likely bring us right home, but she had a few things she wanted to show us. First she took us for a drive along some of the upper parts of the Ferry River. This river receives most of its water from springs and as we drove along it was quite noticeable how quickly the river widened with this increase of water. The Caymanas employs 4 men to go up and down the river cutting weeds and keeping the channel clear. The work is done from flat boats and it is a continual job. Were it not done the water would soon overflow [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 23 [[/preprinted]] onto the surrounding land and make it [[strikethrough]] a [[/strikethrough]] the swamp it once was before reclamation. We drove up to the place where the old road to Spanish Town joined the road we were on. At this cross-roads are erected two masonry posts which look like the mile posts built by the Spaniards in Mexico. It is entirely possible that these could have been built for the same purpose. On the way home we turned off the main Spanish Town Kingston road, up the road by the Ferry Inn. This road follows the Ferry River for quite a distance and is supposed to connect with the road which was marked by the Spanish posts-mentioned previously (above). Mrs. Bonell is of the opinion that this was the real old Spanish Town road and that the river at one time flowed on the other side of Ferry Inn. At present the river cuts off the Inn from the road, but it is entirely possible that the Inn and River were at one time on the same side, as one can see old river beds for quite a distance up the new road. [[image - map depicting the Spanish Town Kingston Road, the old river beds, and the old road]]
[[preprinted]] 24 [[/preprinted]] Taking all of these assumptions for truth, then what is now known as Tom Cringle's Tree is not the original one, as there is another one - almost as large - up the old road a way. It is not possible to go up the old road all the way in a car, but Mrs. Bonell says that a little walking will bring one out on the first road we saw. Cundall, one of the outstanding historians for the island, has been inclined to disagree with Mrs. Bonell as to where the old Spanish road led, but he has done some investigating and who knows but what he will unearth a confirmation of Mrs. B's theory. We also drove thru Up Park Camp, where the soldiers are stationed, and we got home just in time for supper. The only interesting animal I saw on the whole trip was a mongoose. Dick has taken a picture of the oxen used for working and that will better describe the animal than words can. The next day, July 10th, Mrs. Edwards came by for us, in the afternoon, and took us for a drive to Morant Bay. We drove a little beyond the town of Morant [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 25 [[/preprinted]] Bay to the bay on which Port Morant is situated. This bay is one of the longest and narrowest I've ever seen. At the same time it is a beauty spot. This place and White Horses are by far the two prettiest places on the road. Mr. Edwards went up to inspect some coconut trees which were being treated. The lower limbs of the trees were turning yellow and dying, and he had tried simple agricultural experiments such as forking around them, and putting potash fertilizer on otheres. Every tree treated showed improvement. This was no wonder considering the poorness of the soil. There is a very thin layer of top soil and the limestone rock is very close to the surface. [[left margin]] July 20, 1935 [[/margin]] Yesterday about 2 o'clock Mrs. Edwards telephoned to ask me to come to tea at 4:30. That was the only thing I understood. I thought she said that I was to stay to supper and Mr. Edwards would take me home. I later found out that this was all a mistake. Dick is away. I took the streetcar and arrived there rather late. However, it didn't matter as she wasn't expecting anyone else. We had tea, and a very nice one it was too, but the [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 26 [[/preprinted]] flies were almost impossible. Here in Kingston we would be amazed to see so many flies, while out at Hope they seem to take it for granted. The car ride was quite nice and one of these days I'll go to Papine to the terminus. It took an age to get there but that was because of the long walk through the gardens. I took the South Camp car [[strikethrough]] a [[/strikethrough]] to Cross Roads, and changed to a Hope Gardens car. When I arrived I found out that I had been asked to play tennis - which I hadn't understood. Then later on Mr. Edwards informed me that his car was broken down, and immediately Mr. Morrison offered to bring me down when his car should arrive. I accepted but had no idea it would be such a long while in coming. When his chauffeur did arrive it was almost 8 o'clock and the Edwards had insisted that we stay to dinner. Mrs. Edwards had said something to me about dinner over the phone but I still do not know whether I had been previously invited or not. As there were so many mix-ups to this point I felt that I should do my best to give as little trouble as possible, but the fact [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 27 [[/preprinted]] remained that I was inwardly embarrassed about the whole thing. Mrs. Edwards was so charming in her invitation that I hardly had the heart to believe I was an uninvited guest (up to the point when Mr. Morrison was invited too) but then a good hostess would do her best to put a guest at ease. I don't suppose I shall ever know the truth of the matter, and like [[strikethrough]] a [[/strikethrough]] many such moments they can easily be forgotten. It did manage to disturb my sleep tho' and I was most restless all night. Mr. Morrison invited us all to go to the movies with him at the Gaiety, but I wasn't willing to put myself to any more obligations than I had already got into, so I quite firmly refused. Another reason for refusal was that I had not taken my key and I did not [[strikethrough]] have [[/strikethrough]] want to have to wake the family when I got back. As it was, most of the family had retired and only Mr. Moody was up. There was a gentleman playing tennis with Mr. Edwards in the afternoon. I'm not sure of the name, I think it is Gordon. His wife came over later and the three ladies of us went over to see the orchids
[[pre-printed]] 28 [[/pre-printed]] in the garden. She looks and speaks as if she were Irish and I took an immediate liking to her. Without exaggeration she has the most beautiful blue eyes I have seen in Jamaica - in fact almost anywhere. Mr. Morrison arrived late, and now that I look back on it, it seems I recall meeting him at the Edwards' cocktail party. He is a native born Jamaican - and how he can "pan" the English! He talks of being a "Colonial", and the same breath says "the English are without doubt the rudest people on the face of the earth". He says they can't hold a candle to the American tourist when it comes to being rude - refreshing thought! He is a solicitor (lawyer) and as a result has a marvelous grasp of world affairs. When we were alone a few minutes he said that Anglo-Saxons (meaning to include us two) took people at their face value without bothering about ulterior motive, but that Latins were always looking for the subtle meaning. I can't agree with him, because I can see many subtleties in his make up, which, if he were taken at face value, would be completely hidden to me. (I being lacking in any Latin [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 29 [[/pre-printed]] heritage, - unless it can be acquired from living among so-called Latin peoples). In 1906 he went with the first cricket team, from Jamaica, to play England. From that and subsequent remarks I should judge him to be about 55 years old. He was on a battleship during the war, and he recounted the encounter with the Emden (he has a high opinion of the German fleet and says he still doesn't understand why they didn't win the war). He is conceited to the point of asking for compliments, which were not forthcoming, altho I found him most interesting. What a perfectly marvelous character he would make for a book! I wonder if he is quite as expansive when his wife is around. Enough of one character! July 20, 1935 This morning I received a telegram from Dick. How welcome it was! I was glad to hear that he had found collecting better - it will enhearten him. Last Thursday when I was in town I went in to see Miss Monica Nixon of the J.A.A. and she told me that she had just forwarded some reading material to me. As it hadn't arrived this morning I phoned to have it traced. They say it will be out today. All of which goes to show how slowly they do things in these hot climes.
[[preprinted]] 30 [[/preprinted]] Speaking of heat - this morning has bee a good example of a really hot day. There has been little breeze from the sea and that certainly does make a difference. Speaking of Thursday reminds me of seeing so many tourists in town from off one of the United Fruit Lines. Some were buying any number of foolish things, while others were stocking up on perfume and Yardley's toiletries. A box of bath salts only costs 1s 6d. While in Nathan's I ran across a most disgusting exhibition of tourist bad manners. A woman had purchased an article for 6d and the girl who waited on her said it was 9 cents (the woman had nothing but American money). At the present rate of exchange 10 cents should have been the minimum quoted. When the floor manager brought the customer her package - as is done here - and didn't bring her [[underlined]] one cent [[/underlined]] she became infuriated and acted abominably, throwing her small package across the counter and declaring she had been cheated. The manager then brought her the cent and said that for such a small amount they would not allow her [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 31 [[/preprinted]] to leave the shop unsatisfied. She deserved to be kicked out on her ear! She must have been slightly "off" as I don't see how anyone could act that way unless they were. Unfortunately the public remembers one of such a type of American tourist twice as long as they do the hundreds who go about their business in a sane manner. While Dick was away I went down to the Jamaica Inst. and paid it my first visit. I wish I had gone sooner as I found a great deal [[strikethrough]] of [[/strikethrough]] to interest me there. The prime purpose of my visit was to buy a book called " Jamaica in 1928" (two shillings). The downstairs of the main building is the main library and reading room. Upstairs in the same building is the West Indian Library (in which I could have spent hours, and a gallery which is used for display as well as lectures. The display was most interesting, and there are a number of very nice portraits of people who have had some influence in Jamaican history. In the cases are a number of valuable books, rare old coins and tokens, firearms, swords, and many other small pieces of historic interest. The one piece which interested me most was a book of water color sketches of West
[[preprinted]] 32 [[/preprinted]] Indian characters, about the year 1813. Each sketch was practically a story in itself. One was entitled "Barbados Hucksteress and her slave." This was a picture of a lady dressed in the height of fashion of the day - a dress which [[strikethrough]] would [[/strikethrough]] looked to rival those of Empress Josephine - and trailing behind was her black slave carrying the articles of trade. The lady carried a beautiful blue parasol and her hands and arms were encased in long gloves which reached almost to the bottom of the cap sleeve. A fine lady dressed for an important occasion could not have looked more splendid. Her trade was selling silks and laces, and other small articles of personal adornment. The ribbons, cloth & laces were thrown over the arm of the slave, while the numerous small articles were carried in a tray on the head of the slave. I can well imagine how pleased the ladies of Barbados must have been to look over the articles for sale. Imagination tells me that the slave hawked the wares as well as carried them. When I get to Barbados I shall certainly try to discover the whole story of the manner of purchase and sale. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 33 [[/pre-printed]] The building on the left of the main building, as one enters, is called the Museum, and is contains the Natural History collections. Naturally I took a look at the beetles but could find no Staphs. They had a number of Scarabs and Coccinelidae (sp?) as well as Cerambycidae (?) - I must learn how to spell these things! - as I didn't have much time I wasn't able to do much other looking around, altho I understand that they have a small collection of birds and other animals (I could hear the parrots) in the back of the building. The book I purchased has been well worth what I paid. We have gathered a great deal of extra information from it and at the same time it has served to refresh my memory on many small points. One Sunday I went for a walk with Jessie and Marie. In the course of our ramblings we passed alongside the Jewish cemetary and in looking in we saw a Mrs. Stevens and her mother, in looking at a grave. We went in and stood and talked quite a while with the two ladies. Mrs. S. is a great talker. In the course of her conversation she mentioned going to the synagogue and then later did quite a bit of talking about
[[preprinted]] 34 [[/preprinted]] not liking a certain priests sermons as he was too sarcastic. She is very fond of the nuns and acts as if she is a Catholic. It is hard to comprehend how these people mix their religions [[strikethrough]] together [[/strikethrough]]. The night before we went on the picnic with Mrs. Bonell we went to the movies. We saw "Charlie Chan in Paris." The Palace Theatre is very near where we live and the price of admission is 1 and 6 a person. The theatre is partly covered but mostly open air and the sound projector was loud enough so that we could hear with ease. The picture was good and there was a Harry Langdon comedy. The audience is inclined "to clap for the hero and hiss the villain" - mostly the former. This was an experience well worth having. On Thursday we went on a picnic to Christopher's (or Columbus) Cove. Mrs. Bonell had arranged the picnic for the soldiers of the Manchester Regiment which is now stationed at Up Camp. Thursday is soldiers holiday. We took the street car a little after 7 in the morning and went to Soldiers Home. From there we went in a bus to Up Camp barracks, where we got out and met Mrs. B. Dick was [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 35 [[/preprinted]] then asked to drive Mrs. B's car to Caymanas to pick up Marjorie. As it turned out he drove all the way there and back; i.e., to picnic and back. There were two bus loads of soldiers, about 45 in all, and two 5 passenger cars. The soldiers are for the most part young boys - some hardly over 18 - I think they say the average age is somewhere around 20. Naturally many of them are full of life and boyish fun. In our car were Marjorie, Dick, two little (not so small) girls about 13, and myself. The "little" girls were about half again as big as I with that type of stoutness which cannot be confined - but flows out from under armholes, waist bands, and over shoe tops. Their figures were those of old ladies and they were little more than children. What a pity something wasn't done for them. I have a feeling that a great deal of their obesity could have been corrected. August 10, 1935 (Haiti) There is a great deal to tell and so much water has flown under the bridge that I think a few notes on the trip will be best for the present. Dunns River - limestone rocks Fern Gully - also palms
[[preprinted]] 36 [[/preprinted]] Water catchers - for dryers Roaring River Falls. Bran Soap Works and Christopher's Cove. Going to St. Anns for butter. Lunch, dog fight & Mrs. B falling on the dogs. Swimming - stings on feet Ships come so near the reef Trip home thru St Anns & up mountain Talk of war and the Manchesters going to Egypt in September The story of the time the Northumberland Fusiliers ran wild, and how the Manchesters have to live it down. Bog Walk and Rio Cobre The lights blow out We get to Spanish Town & get new lights. Home, very tired. August 20, 1935 In Haiti but feel I should at least end this book with Jamaica before going on to what I've seen here. One night Dick and I hired Oscar Orlando Gray, and went on an expedition into the John Crow Mts. Before leaving that afternoon, Irene cautioned be against allowing Dick to go very far from the car. As everyone [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 37 [[/preprinted]] had previously told us how safe it was considered to travel in Jamaica I was somewhat surprised. Stranger still, the exact form of danger was not mentioned altho robbery was hinted - and "the brutes" were constantly referred to. However our trip was accomplished without mishap and I very much doubt whether any thugs would have been interested in waiting on the unfrequented road which we traveled. We had supper just at dusk, and Dick put out the lantern which seemed to be too bright to attract many insects. Bats were plentiful at that time of evening - how I dislike them! Almost as much as big moths. We started on our trip about 3 o'clock and went to Buff Bay by way of Castleton. As we had just had tea, and Oscar seemed intent on making good time, the curves became just a little too much for my delicate (?) stomach. However when Oscar was requested to slow down he did so with good grace, and the trip was continued in a happier frame of mind. One the way we passed a limestone cave, which could be seen from the road. Dick says he had stopped there previously. It is a little beauty. All the country to Buff Bay is very pretty, with lots and lots of greenery,
[[preprinted]] 38 [[/preprinted]] and one really feels one is in the tropics. It seems a shame to "finish" Jamaica here, but still may come back to it later. What I want to do is tell of my last glimpse of that Island. Our ship "Pastores" of Columbian line left Kingston the evening of July 30 and the following morning early saw us in Port Antonio. We had gone there to pick up bananas and I was awakened early that morning by the shouts of the men loading the fruit. Most of the actual carrying is done by women, while there seems to be a "straw-boss" who does all the shouting and hustling of the loaders. The bay of Port Antonio is one of the prettiest places I have ever seen. Reefs extend across that portion which is not blocked by a verdant tropical isle. The channel thru which the ships pass is so narrow that one can see the reefs on either side, yet the bay itself is large enough for a ship to turn around in. For some unaccountable reason we did not take a picture of all this beauty - a mistake I'm sure I shall regret. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 39 [[/preprinted]] [[insert of hand-drawn flower, with one petal floating above]]
[[preprinted]] 40 [[/preprinted]] [[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 41 [[/preprinted]] [[insert of preprinted map of Jamaica]]
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[[stamped]] B&P No 13535 [[/stamped]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[blank page]]
[[blank back cover]]
[[front cover]] August 1935 - November 1935 Haiti Dominican Republic Puerto Rico Guadeloupe
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] Journal Ruth M. Blackwelder
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 1 [[/preprinted]] VIII 21 - 35 Haiti Have been in Haiti over two weeks and have just now, with Dick's benign supervision and persuasion, begun to write on our adventures. We arrived here August 1st and had not stepped off of the boat before a suave gentleman, obviously of French origin, walked up and introduced himself as Mr. Woolley. He said that he represented the hotels Splendid and Sans Souci, and asked us which one we were going to. He, by the way, would be quite willing to help us get our baggage off the boat, and at the same time accompany us to our hotel. The Hotel Sans Souci had previously been recommended to us by Mr. Darlington, as well as a friend of Ruth Mason's - who had been in Haiti - so we named our choice. The walk from the boat to the custom's house is quite a long one. Part of it is actual pier built up on piling while the rest seems
[[preprinted]] 2 [[/preprinted]] to be a masonry jetty which extends out of the piling. The customs house itself is quite new having been completed in 1929. It was about 9 o'clock when we reached here, and already the weather was getting warmish. We were passed thru the customs as easily as thru Jamaica-our letters [[insert]]^from State Dept.[[/insert]] having had a great deal to do in helping. Our baggage was taken to the hotel by taxi and Mr. Wooley took us up to the hotel in his car. The hotel itself is as pleasing after a long stay as it is at first glance. A wide veranda lobby, open on two sides, with large arched doors on the other two sides gives the building an atmosphere of spacious coolness-a relief from the hot morning sun. The flooring is clean black and white tile, and the furniture, appropriately enough, is of the wicker and chintz sun porch variety. There is just the right amount of greenery and on the tables are some very [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 3 [[/preprinted]] nicely arranged bowls of flowers. It is a very livable type of place. Upon entrance we at once made ourselves known to Mr. Barnes. We have not had the pleasure of meeting Mrs. Barnes as she is up in the U.S. with their young son Ralph Jr. How to best describe Mr. Barnes-light [[strikethrough]] pinkish/more [[/strikethrough]] brown complexion, verging on ruddiness, and nice twinkling blue eyes with laughter crinkles at the sides. He plays a good game of tennis as demonstrated by the trophies he has won. In his younger days he played basketball with the Troy team, of which he played guard. This type of athletics has given him a set of beautifully proportioned legs, and a resilient walk, all of which contribute to his youthful appearance. More later. Our room in the hotel is all that can be desired. Twin beds with kapok matresses and mosquito canopies, big window facing the bay, nicely kept floors, and a huge
[[preprinted]] 4 [[/preprinted]] bathroom with shower bath. The latter is all tiled. For this we pay $5.00 a day, with board, for the two of us. This was figured on a monthly basis of $150-very reasonable. The cooking is excellent. The cold consommé the best I've ever eaten. Lobster, which I've been told is really large cray fish, fried chicken, palm heart salad, agua cates (avocado pear) of perfectly huge variety, and last, but very important to Dick, turkey and ice cream. With all this wealth of good food some people act most complainingly when they can't get fresh tomatoes-the most difficult thing to get here. For breakfast we often have logwood honey which has a most delicious flavor, with [[strikethrough]] almost [[/strikethrough]] a faint tinge of vanilla. The first person we met was Mr. Johnson Fairchild of Clark University who is down here getting material for his Master's thesis in [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 5 [[/preprinted]] Geography. He is quite a nice young man who likes his drinks sweet. I was glad to find that be played tennis. He also does a little tap dancing which isn't so bad. The first night we were here Mr. Barnes took us up to visit, and be introduced, to Mr.+Mrs. Barker (of Service [[strikethrough]] Teq [[/strikethrough]] Technique) They live about a 15 minute drive up the hill from here, in a house Mr. Barnes used to live in. We found them to be a very nice couple and we stayed and talked quite a while. Mr. Barker has been a great help to Dick in suggesting collecting localities. The days seem to come and go rather rapidly and I have a little difficulty keeping track of what I do-little as it is. The Sunday after we arrived Miss Esther Wyss of Grand Rapids came to Haiti for a 10 days stay. She claims that Claudia Cranston's articles in "Good Houskeeping" influenced her decision. It was [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 6 [[/preprinted]] rather nice to have another woman around, even tho' we weren't very friendly. She had been to Mexico last year and as a result of her 2 weeks stay knew all there was to know. The first thing which attracted my attention was the swallows. They are somewhat small and look a little like swifts. They are mostly dark grey in color with patches of white on tails and wings. There are simply hoards of them flying around the hotel-in seemingly aimless flight hither and thither. Sometimes they fly into the hotel lobby at night and then they act incapable of flying out. When it first begins to rain-especially at night-they set up an uproarious chatter of chirps of protest. One night when Dick was gone, one flew into the bed room and seemed unable to find his way out. He almost killed himself beating his wings and body against the walls. Finally in desperation I [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 7 [[/preprinted]] turned out the light, thinking that it probably blinded him, but even then he seemed unable to sense which direction was out. However, he stopped his mad batting about, and the last I saw before going to sleep was a dark form perched on the waste paper basket. Early the next morning I was awakened by a mad flutter of wings and on looking in the direction of the noise I discovered that my senseless friend was now seated on top of Dick's mosquito canopy. He stayed there until practically sun up, when, with another series of mad wheelings, he at last managed to find the french doors and fly out. Miss [[strikethrough]] Wy [[/strikethrough]] Wyss later informed me that "a bat" had flown into her room, and I was at some trouble to explain to her that it was a bird. VIII-23-1935 A lady by the name of Mrs. McCarthy arrived today for a weeks stay. She came on are of the Columbian [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 8 [[/preprinted]] freighters. She will stay until Sunday then go across to Cape Hatien and take the boat there. She seems quite nice and companionable. Mr. Barnes had a tennis, supper and bridge party. After supper Jack Ruane and I walked down to the park. On the way we passed the statue of Dessalines which brought to mind the story that the statue doesn't resemble Dessalines at all, furthermore, that it is really a model of some South American patriot. The story runs thusly-some country ordered a statue of its then current hero, but by the time it was finished the hero was no more (either in word or thought) and the sculptor was at a loss as to how to dispose of his statue. Hearing that Haiti was in need of something to [[strikethrough]] commensurate [[/strikethrough]] perpetuate the memory of Dessalines. Thereupon the artist made a lucrative bargain with an official for the sale, and the official in turn made a generous profit. Net [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 9 [[/preprinted]] result-Haiti had a statue of a national hero and 2 men came out of the deal considerably wealthier. There is also another tale. As soon as the sword, which held aloft, falls, then again the blacks will rise up and drive the white man from "The Black Republic". Which brings to mind "Evacuation Day", so called because it is the day the last ^U.S.^ Marines left Haiti, a year ago, August 21, 1934, and which was quite well celebrated on its first anniversary. Many people, natives included, feel they have little to celebrate, as they are not as well off in individual finance as they were when the Marines were here. The celebration lasted all day, with 21 gun salutes, parades, band concerts and a firework display in the evening. It is said that $25,000 had been appropriated for the expenses of the celebration-a good deal must have gone for fireworks. I was told by a person [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 10 [[/preprinted]] who was at Ft. Marc, that that town too had quite an extensive firework display. Dick has been having a little difficulty in getting the 1, 2, and 3 centimes pieces. They seem to be very scarce here. I have also been told that the people here have little use for U.S. pennies-no wonder the chamber maid looked at me doubtfully when I gave her 4 of them! It seems that she will be unable to buy anything with them, altho' most other American money is acceptable. Their paper money says that it is redeemable in [[underlined]] legal American money [[/underlined]] at the rate of 5 gourdes to the dollar. I was asked the other day if I thought Mr. Aubry, the assistant mgr, was a Haitian (I taking this to mean part negro). How anyone could ask this is beyond me-I have yet to see a person of negroid, or even Indian extraction, who has a clear blue eye (I [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 11 [[/preprinted]] don't believe there is such an animal) anyway. Mr. Aubry is French and his eyes are of the Nordic blue variety-I should say from their intensity that both of his parents had blue eyes (Page Mr. Mendel!) All of which is beside the point as far as the man is concerned. He is not only rather quiet, but rather reserved, altho' he can be "brought out" in conversation. During the Diaz regime in Mexico, his mother was a rather well known French dress maker. He visited his mother there, but did not live there any great length of time-he was then about 12 or 15 (not any older) What I intend to find out some day is how he ever happened to come to Haiti, and what is there here to hold him. Seemingly he has no family and few friends in this country. He speaks perfect English so he should get along well in any country. [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 12 [[/preprinted]] VIII-24-35 Today started out very nice but it rapidly grew warmer until it was quite warm, about noon. Jack and I were about to play tennis but the rain started early and kept up until evening. When we got down stairs this evening we found a cocktail party in progress in the "card room"-we had some of the cocktails ourselves (something on the nature of a Bronx) and a few sandwiches. Our party was made up of Jack Ruane-of which some has already been written. Blue eyes, dark hair, on the whole quite nice looking. Quiet in speech, and one of a family of seven. He works as an accountant at the Texaco Co's offices. Smokes a pipe which is rather becoming to his type of face. Mr. Haber of the Philco radio Co. Altho' he claims he rarely travels he has that travelling salesman manner, even down to the diamond ring on the little finger. Furthermore his conversation belies his attempt [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 13 [[/preprinted]] to give one "the home office impression" because he mentions having been in various countries in some capacity or other and I don't think home offices send people around the country for the fun of it. He spoke of being in Mexico City to which I responded little and was rewarded with a knowing look from Dick. Already he has acquired the nickname of Philco. Mrs. McCarthy who looks a great deal like Louise Pratt Johnson altho' an older woman. She does her hair as Louise use to only she isn't as good about touching up the roots as Louise was. Her eyes are almost the same color as Louie's. She is a nice person to know-a little quieter than Louise altho' I imagine a great deal as Louie will be 12 or 15 years hence. Mr. Barnes, Dick and I made up the rest of the party. About us little more need be said-suffice necromancer Barnes did not have dinner with us as we had fried [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 14 [[/preprinted]] chicken which verily pleased Jack & me. After dinner we talked a while and at 9:30 heard Pres. Roosevelt's talk to the Young Democrats. We also heard that Mrs. R. took F.D. home some rum and it wasn't all the souvenir bottle which was presented to her I the Virgin Islands. About 10 we all set out in Mr. Barnes' car to try to find a bombasche (so I believe it is spelled in some books) it sounds more like [[ insertion]] bombache [[/insertion]]bombash to me tho'. Anyway, we weren't very successful, but we found something almost as interesting. Coming from a yard in back of a hut was a noise as if some celebration was taking place. We could hear the drums and a little singing. Mr. Barnes got out and inquired if we might enter, and permission was given. On a covered platform in the back yard some kind of a celebration was taking place, but it wasnt at all what I had imagined a bombash to be. Later on Mr. Aubry told me [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 15 [[/preprinted]] that we must have witnessed something rather unique, but that it wasn't a dance. From the description he said it might have been a wake or a semi religious meeting. In the center of the floor was grouped mounds of food and a few jars were placed here and there-what they contained I know not-and they were on small pedestals. Several women were squatting, or resting as they all do, with feet flat on the floors, knees bent, and buttocks just off the floor. These women seemed to be preparing the food. One of them had a dead pullet in her hand and she seemed to be doing little but swing it around as she worked-it still had all its feathers on. On the outside of this circle of food and women moved a rather solemn [[strikethrough]] group [[/strikethrough]] circle, single file, of men and women, mostly the latter, carrying candles. The women were [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 16 [[/preprinted]] all dressed in white even to having a white headdress something on the style of the red cross nurses. Diagonally across their bodies hung a row of beads, from one shoulder to the opposite hip. The drummers were on the outside of this circle. They used the ordinary type of drum which consists of a long hollow log which is covered at one end by the skin stretched taut, and the other end is narrowed [[insertion]] tapered [[/insertion]] down to a hole about 3 inches in diameter. This end is not covered. They beat a rhythm something like the usual dance ones - an uneven 5/8 time. Someone would start a refrain of a song and the rest of the crowd of on lookers would take up a chorus. The song was something on the type of a spiritual but not as melodious. However it was not melancholy or sad. Out in the dark, or semi darkness where we were standing, several young girls and and old woman or two were keeping time with their [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 17 [[/preprinted]] bodies in a kind of rumba. That was the kind of dance usually danced. It was interesting to watch from the standpoint of folk dancing. The children were the best as their joints and muscles were so loose - and how they could shake! Their bodies kept time to the beats of the drums, not to the singing. We didn't stay very long watching this as we were out looking for the other type of dance. We didn't have any luck tho' so we came back to the hotel. VIII-25-35 This morning we woke up ready to go on an expedition into the hills behind Petionville, but it rained early. However about 10 o'clock Mr. Barnes came down ready to go, so, as it had cleared, we decided to risk it. Our party consisted of the same group as the night before. We drove up the Petionville Kenscoff road to a point about 3 miles from Petionville then we got out and began our hike up
[[preprinted]] 18 [[/preprinted]] the mountain. There is a foot path, which makes the climbing very much easier. We were told that we climbed over 500 feet but it hardly seemed such a climb to me. Philco got pretty tired but he obviously isn't used to such sport. After we reached the highest point over which the path passes we turned off and went a few hundred yards across country to the edge of the slo[[strikethrough]] w [[/strikethrough]] pe from whence we got a view of the [[strikethrough]] f [[/strikethrough]] valley some 2500 feet below. It is indeed a beautiful view with Port au Prince at our feet (second largest city in the W.I.- so says Mr B) and the bay stretching out to sea, with only the island of La Gonave baring its way. The mountains in which we were walking are called Massif de la Selle. As I have said, our view of Port au Prince and the small towns up along the bay around Bizoton, (The bay is Port-au-Prince Baie) was excellent, but we did not have as good a view of the Cul de Sac plain. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 19 [[/preprinted]] It is at the edge of this plain that Mr Barnes has his sisal plantation. Sisal is another type of maguey fiber from which rope is made. The leaves look quite a bit like the Mexican maguey only they are a little finer in texture, not quite so long, and the individual leaves are flatter in shape. The leaves are fed into a machine which has rollers and a few spikes which will tear the leaf but not break the fiber. The following information is gained from Mr Barnes and in "" quotes from "Sisal" by Hamel Smith Pub. J. Bale, Sons & Danielson Ltd London 1929. Haitian sisal takes 3 years to grow and can be cut for 3 years. Mexican Henequen takes 5 years to grow and can be cut for 6 years. After the leaves are cut "the first operation is that of decortication, which is the separation of the fiber (fibre) from the flesh of the leaf. This is done by a decortica-
[[preprinted]] 20 [[/preprinted]] tor, i e, a machine fitted with a number of blunt metal blades that scrape the leaf in a longitudinal direction and strip off the flesh, leaving the bare fibers exposed." In Mr Barnes' machine the leaves are fed into the machine on a chain about 5 inches wide. The metal blades strip the leaves on each side of the chain and then the central portion of 5 inches must be shifted so that it too can be stripped. For this purpose there are two metal clamps ^[[insertion]] with teeth. [[/insertion]] which hold and shift the leaf. "Either during or immediately after decortication the fibre must be washed to remove the gums and acid, and any green particles of vegetable matter that remain." The acid is especially potent and the boys who work around the machine in bare feet have to take enforced vacations every once in a while as they develop very painful sores on their feet where the acid eats away the skin. The acid is so [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 21 [[/preprinted]] strong that most of the lime in the cement around the machines has been eaten away, leaving the small stones and pebbles at least exposed and in some cases loose. Most places when the fibre is dry it is brushed. In Mr B's factory it is beaten while wet and then dried. This removes the dust and dirt also giving the fibre a fine glossy appearance. It is then put in the sun to dry. After the fibre is dry it is graded and compressed into bales. The price received is 4 3/16 cents a pound. This is [[insertion]] about [[/insertion]] the best price received for sisal - the Java sisal is once in a while quoted a trifle higher, while the best Mexican is now only 3 cents. IX-5-35 After reading "Entertaining the Islanders" by Struthers Burt, and coming across such words of wisdom as he imparts, I should get busy. I feel that what he
[[preprinted]] 22 [[/preprinted]] says is true so I quote "discover at once what all professional writers know, but few amateur writers, restless with egotism and [[double underlined]] laziness [[/double underlined]] and old inherited tales of inspiration, are willing to admit, and that is, that [[underlined]] if you sit long enough before a desk something is [[/underlined]] almost [[underlined]] bound to happen [[/underlined]]. I don't even have to go so far as the long sitting. If I just get the notebook and pen I can begin to write - being already full of ideas. We have had unusual weather due to the presence of a hurricane in the Gulf of Mexico, bad enough to delay the air mails for a day. We have heard rumors of bad destruction in Florida but have not had confirmed reports. Before something else prevents I must describe the Band Concerts of which I have attended two. These concerts take place in the ^[[insertion]] plaza [[/insertion]] park near the Presidential Palace, called Champ de Mars. I have yet to hear any blaring music coming from [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 23 [[/preprinted]] that band. The whole tone is of quiet even rhythm - very different from the syncopated drum beats of the bombache. The most of the music they play is the dance tunes of the meringues ("polite" Haitian dances). The meringues so I am told are more or less like a two step and the music is one catchy refrain played over and over again. I would say that they approach very near to the French type of popular tune, as Mlle of Armentiers, but they are not played with the zest and abandon of French music. One night a man, probably a local poet (he had all the earmarks of one), sang a verse to every other chorus. It was in Creole so we couldn't understand it, altho Mr Aubry got a word now and then. The verses seemed to please the crowd as they clapped and shouted "Bis" (again). He seemed only too glad to repeat his talented performance.
[[preprinted]] 24 [[/preprinted]] While the band played, the young men and young women promenaded. Once in a while a young buck would spy a girl whom he knew and breaking away from his companions would go up to her and request the pleasure of her company for a stroll. The vast majority of young people so amusing themselves were "bright skins", and many of the girls are little beauties. I think the women profit, in looks, for having a little white blood, while the men usually do not. The men seem to loose virility thereby. Parked along the drives were many cars of expensive makes. These were usually filled with older people, but once in a while one would find a laughing crowd of boys and girls. Some of the young people seemed most carefully chaperoned, while others are more modern and come and go as they please. [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 25 [[/preprinted]] At 8:45 they play the national anthem-a short snappy piece-and the crowd breaks up. They always finish before 9 as women aren't allowed to be alone on the streets after that. The authorities are not as strict about this as they used to be. Speaking of Haitian music reminds me that one day I was listening to the band play for the soldiers to march and for the auspicious occasion they had chosen "Maine Stein Song"! That same day a bunch of tourists arrived and by the time they [[strikethrough]] arrived [[/strikethrough]] got to the hotel they had viewed a good deal of the Parade. One little "know-it-all informed the others that most Latin American countries met the tourist boats with bands & parades. How she would have started had she known that the parading was in celebration not of the arrival of the Americans, but of their departure. Evacuation Day.
[[preprinted]] 26 [[/preprinted]] It is no wonder tho' that tourists and other people get such mistaken ideas of these islands. After reading a book like "Voodoo Fire" by Richard Loederer it is no wonder to me that people dont have funnier ideas than they do. This book was reviewed by H. P. Davis in The Saturday Review, and the cracks he takes at it are well merited. It is sensational with the idea of sales in mind. True to many of the schools of modern writing the number of book sales depends on the number of sensual descriptions one can get into each chapter. Perhaps this is o.k. in its way, but why try to play the ostrich and call it a travel book? Voodoo has always been an intriguing word. The fact that it is treated in such a mysterious way has served to heighten the interest in it. It has always been hard for an ordinary traveller to find out much about Voodoo, and I'm told that in the case of Haitian Voodoo it isnt because of fear, that [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 27 [[/preprinted]] the average native's mouth is shut. It is pure unadulterated lack of knowledge. This is specially so in the cities. They know of people who call themselves Papa loi and Mama loi - people who sell herbs and charms, but it is rather hard to imagine these bloodless old crones taking part in human sacrifices - the Goat Without Horns is a slander on Haiti. Furthermore even rhythms on the speaking drums are prohibited. The bombache altho many times associated with Voodooism - it undoubtedly has its roots back in Africa - is a dance which goes on for hours, many times days. It may be witnessed by anyone willing to take the time & trouble to follow in the direction from which the drum beats come. It is a body movement dance, with hardly any intricate steps. The whole body either quavers or pulsates in rhythm with the drum. The children are exceptionally
[[preprinted]] 28 [[/preprinted]] good - as are some of the younger women. The mulatoes do not lower themselves to this kind of dancing. It is only the poor solid blacks who cavort in this manner. [[margin]] IX-12-35 [[/margin]] Before I leave I thought I had better copy down some of the other apt remarks by Struthers Burt. (1) "The English and Americans colonize, and fix the water supply, and do good, and keep to themselves, and shave, and everybody hates them; the French take native mistresses and don't shave, and care nothing about the personal behavior of their subjects, and the land never forgets them." 2 "The French have never lost a colony by rebellion except Haiti?" - Not true how about Mexico (I suppose he blames this on Austria) 3 "Voodoo drums - that's nonsense; the ill-advised reports of the curious breed of globe-trotting authors who find life insufficiently exciting unless lied about. 4 "The bombache, the interminable [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 29 [[/preprinted]] dance that goes on for hours without a single interruption. On Saturday nights, as on the eves of holidays, you can beat out the bombache on the drums until you fall asleep with exhaustion." The remark about authors reminds me that one, by the name of James Saxon Childers, spent a few days here. When it came to the night before leaving he came to Mr. Barnes with a copy of some book of travel which he had written, and a request that Mr. B cash a $500 check (travellers) for him. It wasn't a real request - straight forward like - as he intimated that it would be preferable if Mr. B. let him send the money from the U.S. "O.k." says the autocrat. Well, that night Childers for in a crap game with two fellows here - one of whom can little afford to loose so much, - and Childers came up with enough money to pay for his stay. It must be lovely to travel on other people's money. [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 30 [[/preprinted]] Some people of note whom Mr Barnes has had stay here are Mrs F.D. Roosevelt, Joan Lowell, Neil Swanson, "Voodoo" Seabrooke, and Richard Halliburton (authors predominate) In my walks about town I hate that some days I'm disturbed with the dirt and poverty I see. On other days I'm quite nonchalant. One day I saw a mother and two children drinking out of the gutter. Another day I beheld two old crones seated on the sidewalk near the Champ de Mars and whenever a person came within hearing distance they would set up a wailing for money. However they were both most polite, beginning their supplications with, "Bon Jour." On my birthday I had a taste of Haitian humor - or shall I say conception of morality - or propriety. Whatever it is, here is the tale. I had come from the dentist in the afternoon and being warm I had taken off my dress and shoes and stockings. I admit that after [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 31 [[/preprinted]] this removal I had little enough on, but I have seen people on the streets with less clothing. The windows in the room were open and I was standing with my back to the light, holding a mirror and inspecting my tooth, During this proceedure I heard some children yelling, laughing, and making a great to do, but it didn't enter my conscience that I was the cause of the merriment - I was far too interested in my tooth. Finally after I had given it ^[[insertion]] (the tooth) [[/insertion]] a good survey, I happened to turn around to see the cause of the commotion behind me. What should I behold but about 15 children of all ages, mostly girls, but a few boys, all vastly interested in my person. My amazement and consternation caused a howl of laughter, which even I smiled at, but I nevertheless beat a retreat. I still cannot see why they were so interested when they see the same thing or worse practically every day. Color must
[[preprinted]] 32 [[/preprinted]] make the difference. After this episode I began to try to figure out what the average American child's reaction would have been to the same situation. I believe they would have been exceedingly quiet to begin with, in order not to disturb the subject, while they would have taken in all there was to see. The final reaction, at my consternation, would probably have been the same. These people ride burros - that is the women do - while such sights were rare in Jamaica. Most of them carry a stick and instead of hitting the animal across the flanks they beat it on the neck. It is just too much trouble to turn around and hit an animal where it should be hit. I've heard people say "what straight backs these natives have" But they neglect to say what deformed fronts. Half of the women have huge protruding abdomens and amazingly large breasts. I will say that [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 33 [[/preprinted]] most of them have nice legs - especially ankles - and then huge flat feet. This describes the pure negro. The mulato women are nicer looking for the most part. Some are little beauties. The afternoon nurse in Dr. Thebaud's office is one of the prettiest girls I've seen anywhere. None of this so called "sophisticated beauty" about her, but the real goods that, without benefit of cosmetics, has been recognized thru the ages. Not to say that she doesn't use cosmetics, but just enough to bring out the best in her. For five days I suffered with a wisdom tooth, which I thought was paining me just because it was coming in. The longer I waited the worse it got, and even tho' I used everything I could think of the swelling in my glands increased to an amazing extent. Finally on Sept 9th, my 25th birthday, I could stand it no longer so I went to the best dentist in town
[[preprinted]] 34 [[/preprinted]] a Dr. Jules Thebaud - who was recommended by Jack Ruane - and had [[strikethrough]] it [[/strikethrough]] him have a look at it. He informed me that I had a badly abcessed gum around my lower wisdom tooth (not the one which was coming in). He treated it twice that day, and once each day since, and the cost of this was $4.00. He tells me the tooth should come out and I well believe it. I wish I were staying here longer - I'd let him have the job, as I would have confidence in whatever he would do. He has degrees from University of Pennsylvania and Northwestern (M.S.D.) His office is one of the nicest I've ever seen. The X-Ray room is in blue tile and white. Very simple but nice to look at. His main room is a huge place done in dark green tile with all the fixtures in contrasting colors, either chromium or maroon. The chair itself is the most modern in the market. To further round out this picture, the dentist himself is [[strikethrough]] quite [[/strikethrough]] the type of fellow who inspires con- [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 35 [[/preprinted]] fidence in his patients. He goes about his work as if he knows what it's all about. One day we went to see the Dominican consul to find out if we had to have any visas or letters from him. I had been in town shopping with Mrs. McCarthey so I took a taxi and asked him to take me to the Dom. Consul. He made a mistake & took me to the Legation. As I had left him go on his way I was obliged to take another taxi to town. We hadn't gone very far in the second taxi when he stopped and picked up an old negro woman. A little further on we picked up another passenger. This I understand is quite the custom altho' it had been my first experience. I met Dick at the Consul's and we discovered that we had very little business to transact with him. Nevertheless he was most anxious to drum up trade with me as he collects and sells postage stamps. Unfortunately I did not have much money to spend. He seems to do business with a number of stamp co's.
[[preprinted]] 36 [[/preprinted]] Speaking of stamps reminds me of my birthday. In some ways it was by far the worst day I've spent in years - 25 must be the age line! - However when I came down to breakfast in the morning there were two letters for me. One from the family, containing a nice check for $25 and an envelope chuck full of stamps from Dick. I have an idea that he raided Mr Barnes' stock - of course paying for them. They look to be a very desireable bunch. What fun I'll have when I get home & can put them in my books! The Wednesday - Sept 11 - before I left a bunch of 7 U.S. Marine planes flew over to Haiti and ^[[insertion]] the Marines [[/insertion]] stayed for lunch. They were on their way to the Virgin Is. They were all out to the Sans Souci for lunch & Haynes (Cookoo) Boynton - second in command - told me that had I known sooner I might have gone to Santo Domingo with them. I wonder. We went down to see them off on their hop to Santo Domingo, and it was [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 37 [[/preprinted]] quite a sight. Down at the air port I met Mrs & Mr George Polley (Ruth and George) He is connected with the Electric Power Co. They seem a very nice couple. I've heard it said that she is considered one of the prettiest women in the Amer. Colony in Port-au-Prince, but she isn't nearly as pretty (in my opinion) as Mrs Barker. Jack seems to think quite a lot of them, but she does not seem to return the compliment for the family. When Jack was coming across the field with Guy Webb she said "Who is that with the hat", and on being told, remarked, "He actually looks human now." Jack is not oblivious of the fact that he didnt cut such a swathe with some of the Americans. Before I left he had word that he was to go back to New York. You never saw such a change in person - he actually blossomed. Upon hearing that he was to leave he received numerous invitations from some of his worst critics. He accepted few.
[[preprinted]] 38 [[/preprinted]] When he was about 10 his mother & father died within a few days of each other - during the influenza epidemic - and he traces many of his complexes to the difficulties he encountered from then on. His greatest battle is won as he realizes that he has had complexes, and for all their criticism, not one of the roudy, boisterous, drunken Americans could compare with him in genuine savoir faire. He will go far, when many of them are still earning $75 a month, and trying to make up their defficits by gambling or marrying rich women. Gossip has it that not a few of the marriages were contracted in much the same way as "sailor pick-ups." Certain young men make it a practice to meet the tourist boats and after looking over the prospects they pick themselves a "flower." Many times it is just for the day, but in some cases it has resulted in the young ladies missing their boat and having to stay over. Sometimes it is [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 39 [[/preprinted]] just a lark but in one or two cases the lark has gone on and on. In some of the cases, where the young ladies concerned had money, a marriage is a very desireable alliance for the young men. In other cases it is nothing more than a summer's flirtation. In one outstanding case in the colony a very nice young man met a not so nice young woman and for once the tables were turned - she practically forced him to marry her. Had he had the experience and nastiness of the usual "boat meeter" he would have left the lady flat. However, he was a gentleman. I believe that she would in time tame down, if given the chance, and now that they are going to California, and away from the stigma surrounding them, I believe she will loose much of her crudeness. To me the above case is not nearly as bad as where one of the outworn reprobates marries a sweet young thing. Not to say that many "s.y.T's"
[[preprinted]] 40 [[/preprinted]] don't know the score pretty well, but it is something to think about to wake up one morning and find oneself married to a gambler, drunkard, and several other not so nice expressions. By that time you have no money for passage home, so you have to make the best of a bad bargain. What a plot for a "sob sister" novel! Now to do a final wind up on Haiti I must finish with "Tourists I have met." One quaint little number did her best to impress the local nit wits that she was someone back in the U.S. Her category ran all the way from editor of Vanity Fair - what a rummy person she was - to an attempt to be Vina Delmar. Another little number arrived on a very roudy tourist boat. She happened upon Dick in the back yard where he was working on his motor. After several fruitless, so I'm told, attempts to engage him in conversation she remarked that she thought an American man would be tickled pink to see an American woman. I dont [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 41 [[/preprinted]] see why American women tourists have to take it for granted that they are the only "home folks" in existence in foreign countries. I left Haiti on Friday, Sept 13th and despite the date I had a very pleasant trip. For one thing I was glad to be on my way to Dick. I sailed on the Lykes Line ship "Genevieve." Mr Barnes took me down to the ship and arranged for my baggage. I rather hated to say "Goodbye" - we did have such a good time playing cribbage! Captain of the ship was Capt. Haraldsen and there were 3 other passengers besides myself Mrs Lafferty, Mr O'Grady and a Mr Valle. It rather sounds as if the Irish were in evidence. Capt. Haraldsen (he told me this is the correct spelling) is a man about 42 years old. He is quite well read, and his musical background is amazing. This may be because his mother taught music. He knows many Scandanavian musicians and singers among whom is Kirsten Flagstead the Metropolitan
[[preprinted]] 42 [[/preprinted]] opera star who has made such a hit in Wagnerian roles. This trip was taken just a few days after the assassination of Huey Long, so that furnished quite a topic of conversation The Capt. was rather an admirer of certain qualities in Long, and he was always anxious to discuss the man. Mrs Lafferty was not as Irish as her name. She is a Puerto Rico girl who had married a fellow in Ponce and then went to the U.S. with him. They had been married a little over 3 years, and had two children, when he lost his job. He had always been a heavy drinker but with the loss of his job he became worse and worse. After about 3 months of steady drinking - the family had been put on relief by this time - he deserted his family. He did quite a perfect skip, as the authorities could not find hide or hair of him. For some reason or other the relief authorities in Texas where they were, decided that Puerto Rico would be the best place for her and her babies so they bundled her off on the Lykes Line, paying her [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 43 [[/preprinted]] passage, but not giving her any money. She expected her family, who are also in poor circumstances, to meet her. I suppose that she will now be on Puerto Rico Relief. The saddest part of the whole tale is in her attempt to bring up her children as Americans. Junior, the little boy, is a solemn child of 2 - you should see him handle a fork! - and his mother is determined that English shall be his tongue, but she well knows that if he is brought up in Puerto Rico that he will soon be steeped in Spanish. Mr Valle's remark about the above story was "of course that is only her side of it". This served to lower my opinion of the man. Not that such a remark wouldn't be perfectly natural from one of his kind. His Latin conception of morality is that "the man can do no wrong. Unhappy marital relations are always the fault of the wife". He is the representative of the Lykes Line in Aquadilla, and his wife comes from [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 44 [[/preprinted]] Columbus Ohio - she was not with him - so I rather take that to mean that she is American. He writes short stories for Spanish magazines and Capt H. called him "Belasco Ibanez II" Mr O'Grady is the type of man I admire at first glance. Tall, tidy, blue eyes, and a pleasant face altho' not an Adonis. He is well educated, as his conversation discloses, and he has done enough travelling to have an air of knowing how to do things. He had been with the Marines until they left Haiti, but he's now retired. He had been spending his vacation with friends in Port-au-Prince. What his present occupation is, I do not know as he was not one to talk much about himself. The accommodations on the Lykes Line were ok as far as cabin was concerned but the food was a little heavy for one with a squeemish stomach. My tooth was still giving me some pain, and I didnt feel very well in other ways, so food meant little to me. The feather pillows were most annoying as they gave me [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 45 [[/preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Dominican Republic [[/double underlined]] an awful fit of sneezing. Sunday the 15th I was up bright and early as we were to dock around seven. Our ship was small enough to go up the Ozama river and dock right at the pier. As [[strikethrough]] I [[/strikethrough]] we came up the river I saw Dick waiting on the pier for me. After what seemed ages, Dick, Mr Feeley (the customs inspector) and the immigration officials came aboard. We had no difficulty in landing and our baggage wasn't even opened. The only thrill of the morning was watching my trunk go over the side of the boat - and expecting it to land in the water any minute. It was plenty "heart throb" to be with Dick again and I got so excited that I lost most of my appetite. We took a car up to Mme Lenior's and on the way up I was impressed to see that Santo Domingo has quite a nice business district. We arrived at the Mme's in time for breakfast which consisted of "how do you want your eggs". Dick showed me the room which
[[preprinted]] 46 [[/preprinted]] he had been occupying - it was little more than a damp, cold cell - mostly the former. We had to wait several hours for a room to be vacated for us and even then what we got was no rose. The sun never reached the room, and as a result it had a dank musty odor - far from healthful. The Mme is a large, almost handsome woman, of somewhat questionable descent. If she does have colored blood there is little trace of it. She has some very nice jewelry which she wears rather abundantly, as only a large woman can. She seems to enjoy good books and music and her table conversation is fairly interesting. She must a make a pretty good living out of her place judging from the prices she asks. We had to wait until the couple who were in our room, got out. This was about 12 o'clock. We didn't do much all that day as I was pretty tired and had a desire to rest. That afternoon a boy appeared with a card and said he was sent to make arrange- [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 47 [[/preprinted]] ments for a trip the next day. Dick asked me to make the final arrangements - as I could speak Spanish. Dick thought this fellow the same one as he had spoken to the previous day, but it later turned out that he wasnt, as the real fellow came by later. We firmly decided that we would go with the later fellow as by rights he should have had it. The next day I didn't feel well enough to go on such a long trip, so when the fellows came - they both showed up at different times - we told them that we were not going. The first one acted quite decent about it and even refused a tip for his trouble in coming out. The other one blackmailed us into doing $5.00 of business with him. We just used him for running around making preparations to leave the next day. We went to the Legation where I met Mr. Gantenbein - of whom Dick had spoken previously. In our ride around the city that Monday, Sept 16th, we went for
[[preprinted]] 48 [[/preprinted]] a drive along Trujillo Blvd. On this street has been erected the house of Trujillo's daughter - a beautiful Spanish style mansion. The Blvd itself isnt much to rave about. It is just a nice ocean view drive. Tuesday morning was spent in packing and getting ready to go. We had to go out to the ship in a launch as it was too big to come up the river to the dock. There was a quite a swell to the ocean, but the transfer from launch to ship was made without mishap. We sailed on the Puerto Rico Line "Coamo". We had a nice cabin on Promenade Deck - what a relief after the Mme's! The food was excellent as was the service. I think it is even better than the U. Fruit - and that is saying a lot. The trip was only a overnight one - wish it had been longer. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 49 [[/preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Puerto Rico [[/double underlined]] [[margin]] IX-18-35 [[/margin]] We arrived the morning of September 18th. It was rather a warm day, but not too much so. San Juan was the only port where we had to open our baggage, or where they delayed us at all. Dick's absolute [[strikethrough]] th [[/strikethrough]] truthfulness in following directions on the custom's declaration seems to have mixed the officials. We waited until they got the motor out of the hold, and then Dick followed the taxi to the hotel. We had been advised, by Mr. Evertson, to go to the Capital Hotel. Not knowing of any other, we followed advice. Of course there is the Condado-Vanderbilt, which we have heard is as expensive as its name. Our living would have been about $15. a day. How we could afford that! Anyway, the Capitol was clean even tho' a little bare and run down. The food wasn't so bad. I wouldn't have been satisfied to stay there all the time tho'.
[[preprinted]] 50 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] IX-18-35 [[/margin]] This afternoon we went out to the University in ^[[insertion]] an [[/insertion]] attempt to find Chardon or someone who could be of aid to us in meeting some entomologists. What was our surprize to hear nothing but Spanish being spoken on the campus. Even the girl at the information desk was a little weak on understanding English. Finally we got Chardon's office address in Edificio Padin. We went to town but decided not to call that afternoon as we didn't know the office number We sat & ate ice cream instead. [[margin]] IX-19- [[/margin]] This morning Dick phoned Chardon and made an appointment to see him at 11:45. First we went to town and [[strikethrough]] Di [[/strikethough]] did some arranging for licenses, and Dick bought a suit. When we got to Chardon's office we found that it was the headquarters of Puerto Rico Relief Administration. This makes him a pretty busy [[strikethrough]] do [[/strikethrough]] man these days. After waiting quite a while we got to see him. He is a nice appearing man, with a surprizingly scholastic turn of mind - one would never suspect it to look at him. His specialty is [[strikethrough]] a [[/strikethrough]] Fungi [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 51 [[/preprinted]] He gave us an autographed copy of his monograph "Mycological Explorations of Venezuela". Speaking of Relief administration I am told that the PRRA (Puerto Rico [[strikethrough]] Relief [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] Reconstruction [[/insertion]] Administration) is taking the place of what used to be the PRE RA P.R. Emergency R. Assoc. Chardon is the head of this new PRRA. I was also told that he is well in line to be next governor of Puerto Rico. In the afternoon we went looking for more suitable places to live - and eat. The first place we looked, the Olimpo apts, suited us to a "T". The word apartments is somewhat misused as the place really is a rooming house. We pay $9.00 a week - laundry extra. Then we went to the Union Club across the street to see what could be done about meals. They were willing to take us a boarders, so we agreed to their price of $15 a week a piece. The food is clean and American style, and that is all that counts.
[[preprinted]] 52 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] IX-20- [[/margin]] This morning we went to the University to look up the people to whom Chardon had given us letters - The head of the Experiment Station, Lopez Domingues, and some others. Here again we had difficulty. No one seemed to know how or why. Many acted as if they had never heard of an Experiment Station. Finally we got a Prof. who spoke English - a very near sighted man - and he gave us directions how to get to the Experiment Station, which is not on the University grounds. We left the campus and walked up to the Plaza in Rio Piedras where we got a car to take us up to the Station. When we got there we asked about Dominguez, but he was out and about the grounds and it seemed we couldn't see him. As Dick's final aim was to see Wollcott, he made inquiries about him. The first intention had been to get to him by way of his Superior, as it was understood that he was a little difficult to reach. However, having made the trip in order to see [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 53 [[/preprinted]] an entomologist, we decided to barge in upon Wolcott without the assistance of his superior. I found him to be rather a pleasant fellow. He was most helpful in giving Dick directions of places to go. It is rather nice to go expecting to find a grouch and be surprised to find a rather happy-go-lucky jovial type. He drove us back to the University, and politely invited us to lunch - which we refused. [[margin]] IX 23 [[/margin]] This is a Monday, and being rather tired of trying to keep a long bob in good condition I decided to have a goodly part of my hair cut off. It certainly is a relief - and far cooler. Maybe it isnt exactly stylish not to have curls at the back of the neck, but it is far more comfortable down here. In the course of trying to get this Journal caught up to date, I have most likely forgotten some daily happenings but, if I remember them later I'll write
[[preprinted]] 54 [[/preprinted]] a paragraph or so extra. When Dick went down to his motor this morning he found that the side car had been opened, and several things taken. His machete, Coleman Lamp, flashlight, knife, dark glasses and goggles. Mr Bailey, the garage man [[strikethrough]] , [[/strikethrough]] who was doing his repairs, told him to report to the police and they would put a detective on the trail. The plain clothes man came out and talked to us, and so far that is all that has taken place When we arrived in San Juan our watches were put 35 minutes ahead of Santo Domingo. In checking with the radio, on Eastern Standard time, it seems we are an hour ahead of N.Y. time (e.g. 9 there 10 here) This summer [[strikethrough]] while down here [[/strikethrough]] there have been two hurricanes which did considerable damage. The first, when we were in Haiti swept up the Florida Keys and completely wiped out a vetran's camp - killing (mostly by drowning) some 200 or more men. This was [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 55 [[/preprinted]] the most severe. The second, passed to the south of Puerto Rico on Sept 23-25 travelling N.N.W. It did most of its damage on Great Abaco island in the Bahama Group. [[insertion]] also passed over Cuba and Jamaica [[/insertion]] This time 20 people were killed and 60% of all the buildings were demolished. It did some minor damage as far south as Jamaica where the banana crop was hurt - not seriously. When a hurricane is even several hundred miles away the surrounding islands are deluged with torrential rains. In the last hurricane we had several days of unusual rains. The people in these parts have a saying about hurricanes "June - too soon July - stand bye August - Come it must September - remember October - all over" This dating of hurricane season isn't exactly correct, but it gives a faint idea of what to expect.
[[preprinted]] 56 [[/preprinted]] I had been noticing that at the Club, when we had turkey dinners that the amount of dark meat was quite surprising. I later was informed that the dark meat was duck. It certainly was mild enough! [[margin]] Oct 1, '35 [[/margin]] To-day we decided to try some thing new by way of saving money. As Dick is going to Mayaguez I thought it a good idea for me to eat lunch and breakfast here in the room, and just eat dinner at the club. Both of us had breakfast and lunch here. I think it will be a saving to us, especially as Dick wont be here all the time. Then too, we can have breakfast as early as we like. Dick left at noon to be gone several days. The rest of the day was spent quite uneventfully. In the evening I heard "Easy Aces" for the first time over short wave. [[margin]] Oct 2, 1935 [[/margin]] I seem ^[[insertion]] to [[/insertion]] be able to spend a lot of time doing nothing. Some days I cant even account for. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 57 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] Oct 3, 1935 [[/margin]] Went to town in the morning and was going to get mail at the P.O. but there was such a line waiting that I decided not to. Going to town on the bus - White Star line - there was a negro woman who was bent on telling her woes to the whole world. She was throwing herself around and acting quite grief stricken. It seems her son had just been taken to the hospital. Some people felt very sorry for her - so they said. Before I forget, I must mention the beggars. I might have been a little disgusted with Haiti and her beggars, but there at least one wasn't hounded [[underlined]] all [[/underlined]] the time by them. Some of the old crones are actually the nerviest I've ever seen. At the little shop where I buy my groceries there is one old man who comes right in to the store and if the customers refuse to give him a penny or so, he sets up such a blackmailing cry and hue that the proprietor
[[preprinted]] 58 [[/preprinted]] is forced to pay him to keep quiet. The thing which amazes me is that they dont give him a box on the side of the head, but they certainly observe the Christian virtue of giving to the poor. The thing which annoys me most is to have some old crone, (who obviously isn't in town for the sole purpose of begging,) pull a long face as soon as she sees a well dressed woman or man passing, and then thrust out a boney hand for "caridad." I have been in a store waiting to be waited on and have seen a not so poorly dressed woman come in and go up to the cashier and ask for money. In small shops I've rarely seen them refuse. They usually give them a penny. I wonder if they set a daily limit of pennies - say 50 cents - or even less, and after that is gone they then refuse to hand out any more money. It is a disgrace for an American Country to have so many beggars. I've heard that St. Thomas boasts a superiority [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 59 [[/preprinted]] over San Juan in that respect - we shall see. This evening I decided to stay a while at the club and finish reading an article in "Esquire" on stamps. I hadn't been seated long when Miss Lester, the hostess, came out and sat down to talk. A little while later two gentlemen, one of whom I had noticed often at the club, came out and joined us. In the course of my conversation with Mr. W.P. Owrey, one of said gentlemen, it developed that he was an entomologist - mostly working with plant quarantine. The other young man was Mr. Fife (sp?) who had just come in from Mayaguez. He had been asked if he knew Dick - and as he remembered the name he acted both surprized and pleased to meet [[strikethrough]] N [[/strikethrough]] me. Mr. Owrey is grey haired and blue eyed, with rather a young face. He is quite friendly
[[preprinted]] 60 [[/preprinted]] but at the same time is a little important acting. Such as, "Imagine your husband living in the same building as I do, and yet we not getting in touch with each other, Why I could have been a great help to him." [[strikethrough]] ? [[/strikethrough]] (could you? - says I) Mr Fife is a great deal like Elliot Turnbull - in everything except build. Where Elliot is tall Mr Fife is quite a pee wee etc. Anyway, it seems queer that I should have dreamed of Elliot several times lately, and then to meet his compliment. We became quite friendly and talkative in a short while, and after Miss Lester & Mr Owrey left - she having asked him to take her home - we stayed and talked about this and that. He is at present working on pink bole eradication (? terminology) [[margin]] Oct 4, 1935 [[/margin]] This is Friday, but I declare I dont know what I did with the day. I didnt feel like making breakfast in the morning so I went over to the club. After breakfast I had a [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 61 [[/preprinted]] little chat with Miss Lester. She is queer in a number of ways, but quite likeable in others. She acts entirely different when men, whom she is impressing, are around [[strikethrough]] , [[/strikethrough]] from how she acts when with a woman alone. She undoubtedly is trying to "make a killing." Unfortunately this is also obvious to many of the men. Mr Fife amused himself a great deal over this. This evening Mr Fife came into the dining room after I had already started, and with little or no ado asked if he night join me. Naturally I didnt mind. A little later Mr Owrey came in and joined us - Miss L. acting all the while like a lifted eyebrow. When she walked over to our table we asked her if she would join the party - to which she replied that it was against the rules. We all knew this to be a slight deviation from the truth as we had even seen her eat dinner with lone (prefered) gentlemen. Later on
[[preprinted]] 62 [[/preprinted]] in the evening she took occasion to remark about married women who acquire gentlemen friends in the absence of their husbands. This sounds more catty than I took it to be, as in spite of her "chasing" I rather like her. [[margin]] Oct 5, 1935 [[/margin]] This morning I went to town, and as it was Saturday, a great many women were in town shopping. I saw a great many of the old fashioned Spanish type of elderly lady. One went down on the bus with me. She was dressed in a white starched, eyelet, two pieced dress. She must have had at least two starched petticoats under the skirt. She didnt wear a hat, but over her carefully combed hair was a black mantilla, held in place with a pretty comb. Dick returned late in the afternoon from Mayaguez. We went over to the club for dinner but he didnt get to meet either Mr Owrey or Mr Fife. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 63 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] Oct 6, 35 [[/margin]] Sunday as usual is a rather lazy day, and I slept a great deal of the time. In the afternoon we went for another excursion along the beach. Just as we were starting out Mr Tugwell passed us in his new Studebaker car, and then he stopped and picked us up. He took us as far as the Country Club and there we got out and began to walk down the beach towards the Condado hotel. Our collecting wasn't as good this day. However, Dick did find some scarabs in the sand as deep as 6 in down. [[margin]] Oct 8, 1935 [[/margin]] Dick was gone most of the day to-day. That gum around the wisdom tooth is acting up a little. I packed it with a Zonite pack and it is much better. [[margin]] Oct 10th [[/margin]] Apart from this being Dorothy V's birthday, I can think of little to say about it. [[margin]] 9 [[/margin]] I forgot to say that yesterday afternoon Dick and I went to town together. We went to the P.O. where we got some mail. The [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 64 [[/preprinted]] principal reason for my going was to get some ice cream. I'm not specially excited about the variety we get at the club. [[margin]] Oct 11, 1935 [[/margin]] Another do little or nothing day. After lunch Dick and I stretched out on the bed and he began to read me a chapter in "Principles of Insect Morphology" by Snodgrass, on Wings. I had previously tried to so some reading for myself but didnt get very far. This time I didnt do very well either as I fell asleep. I couldnt blame this on the medicine I had been taking because I hadn't taken any today. [[margin]] Oct 12-1935 [[/margin]] To-day was "Dia de la Raza" or Columbus Day -as you will. In most stores and so forth it was a half day holiday. This being Saturday I had to do my shopping for Sunday in the morning. This sounds as if I had really taken up housekeeping. Dick went on another long trip, and about 5:30 I was expecting him home, so I worried a little as it was getting dark - silly me. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 65 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] Oct 13, 1935 [[/margin]] Another Sunday. Mr Owrey came up to see us for a few minutes in the morning. I was busy cleaning shoes, getting ready to leave. He took us down in the back yard to show us a big almond tree, and as luck would have it Dick saw a small group of toadstools in which he found 3 Staphs. Mr Owrey found some larvae - which he thinks is Diptera - in a rotting almond, so he took a bag and gathered quite a bit of the fruit on the ground. He believes it may be a host to fruit fly. It rained most of the afternoon so we stayed pretty close to the house. [[margin]] Oct 14, 1935 Oct 15, 1935 [[/margin]] I wasnt feeling very well so I did little or nothing. [[margin]] Oct 16, 1935 [[/margin]] Day before we are to leave. I began straightening things out to pack. It never seems as if we unpack much, but at the end of a few weeks there is always a lot to put in a trunk. Dick did a lot of going back and forth to town. He's always good at doing all the errands. [[margin]] Oct 17, 1935 [[/margin]] We are to sail to-night at 10:30. Most of the day was spent packing. [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 66 [[/preprinted]] Dick went to town and bought a Duffel bag, and I know my Mother would say that therein - in my full hearted sponsorship of the bag - [[strikethrough]] that [[/strikethrough]] I [[strikethrough]] took [[/strikethrough]] was like Dad. All scoffers aside, I think a bag like that one of the handiest things we could have. It carries Dick's equipment, many pairs of shoes, cans of Klim, Cocoa-Malt, and sugar. Then to cap it all, a Sterno stove, which I believe is going to be quite handy. Dick is leaving the motor here in Bailey's garage in storage. At noon we went to town to have lunch - at the Aquarium - and to do some last minute shopping. The lunch of aroz con pollo was very good. The chicken, rice, and broth had been cooked in an earthenware pan and brought to the table in these individual dishes. There was garlic in it which affected me slightly, coming back at frequent intervals to haunt me. We certainly could eat here, and have a choice, lots cheaper than at the Club. Our meal was $1.00 and [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 67 [[/preprinted]] it would have been at least $1.50 at the Club, and without rates $1.70. Dinner was the same proposition, only more so. We had a nice dinner for $1.20. At the club it would have been $2.20. Dick bought another ^[[insertion]] white [[/insertion]] cloth suit. This one cheaper than the other. We shall see how long it lasts in comparison. It looks ok. We got on the boat about 7:30. The Bull Line "Catherine". Our cabin was clean and pleasant enough, altho' frightfully hot. The boat didn't look as large as the Lykes Line, but it certainly carries more passengers. After the boat got under way the room cooled off quite a bit. Now that we've come to the end of our stay in Puerto Rico there are several things I want to mention before I forget them, and as yet I've had no appropriate place to write said things. First of all, the doctors and their advertising. One, on [[strikethrough]] e [[/strikethrough]] the main street of Miramar, Santurce advertises this way - in trans-
[[preprinted]] 68 [[/preprinted]] lation - general practicioner, children's diseases and syphilis. (Sp?) Another, advertising in the daily paper says [[strikethrough]] gohor [[/strikethrough]] gonnorhea treated, without pain. The curse of the Arawok maiden seems to have invaded medical advertising. I can imagine what a furor such signs & advertising would create in the U.S.A. To my mind this is just another ^[[insertion]] example of [[/insertion]] failure to Americanize the American possessions in the Caribbean There are numerous boot blacks on the streets - mostly in the residence districts. They all yell "Brillo, Shine." The words to them not being synonymous so much as the brand name Brillo with the idea of shoe shine mixed in. Next comes the venders of chickens. One day I was looking out of our window, on the street and house below. As I gaped at the passing scene, a chicken vender, of the usual type, with live chickens in a basket, on his head, came up the street calling his wares. The cook from the house next door [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 69 [[/preprinted]] rushed out and stopt him. With little or no ado she yanked a fluttering squawking chicken out of the basket and handed it to the vender with admonitions for him to hurry as the water was boiling and it was high time the ^[[insertion]] chicken [[/insertion]] soup was on cooking for lunch. One deft turn of the hand and the poor fowl's neck was wrung, and before one could blink again the feathers were off. It looked like a trick of from basket to soup in half an hour. When we were going down to the boat I had my first view of the little put-put ferries that go across the bay in San Juan. They are very queer little contraptions and they look equally funny on the water. There seems to be some relationship between the people who run Olimpo Court and the lady who owns the Capital hotel. When I mentioned the [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] sameness of names to Dick he remarked that very likely Evertson had made a mistake when he [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 70 [[/preprinted]] gave us the name. However, when he went to pay the bill he found Mrs Axtmayer of the hotel, in the office talking to the other Mrs Axtmayer. So goes the world. Dick's last deed, before going to bed on board ship was to put white Griffin polish on his helmet. It was considerably improved. The Catherine seemed to list quite a bit to port, but nothing more serious came of it. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 71 [[/preprinted]] [[double underline]] St. Thomas - Virgin Is. U.S.A. [[/double underline]] [[margin]] Oct 18 1935 [[/end margin]] Arrived here this morning on board Bull Line "Catherine". We docked about 7 o'clock, and as the steamship crew, or stewards showed no inclination to serve us breakfast we were forced to wait until we reached the hotel. We had been told that Kreuger's was a good place to go, but upon entering the place we were informed that they had no accommodations for women -- a fact of which I was somewhat thankful, as I wasn't specially smitten with the looks of the place. Having heard that Taylor's was next best, we drove up the hill and made inquiries there. It is called Taylor's "1829" and rightly so -- it couldn't be much younger. As compared to U.S. hotels it is far from being a rose, but at least our room is light and airy. The price charged is $2.00 a day a piece. In one corner is a huge four [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 72 [[/preprinted]] posted bed, which is lacking in springs, so the mattress is put on a couple of planks slung across the bed. We have quite a bit of furniture, all of it very old fashioned. Three good old standbys are present, wash bowl & jug, slop pail, and chamber. Across, or rather, along one wall is another bed 3/4 size and it boasts a mosquito netting. Across the front of our room is a nice veranda, on which we eat our meals. The meals which we have had have been pretty good, altho' rather heavy. This afternoon we went down to inquire about the American Caribbean line only to discover that one boat of theirs left this morning, and there wont be another for two weeks. This will mean a slight in our plans. We have wonderful view from our room and veranda. We can see all the harbor, which is supposed to be the crater of an extinct volcano, and to the [[strikethrough]] east [[/strikethrough]] west we [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 73 [[/preprinted]] can see the houses rising one above the other, built on the steep hills which come down to the water front. To the south, looking out the harbor gateway, one can see St Croix. [[left margin]] Saturday Oct 19, '35 [[/left margin]] There are only certain things I mind more than others, and one of them is the sanitary facilities of the 1829. It's been a long time since I used a back house - especially one using the dry earth method. Dr Taylor, in his writings, seems to consider this as having superior sanitary advantages, but in his day they very likely did not have the new Montgomery Ward odorless type. Chick Sale might have been a specialist but it we have to undergo many more places like that, I'll be qualified for Research Associate. Add to all the previous mentioned disadvantages, the presence of a couple of tarantula looking spiders, and you have a complete picture. What fun to have to chase a tarantula off the seat or toilet paper, before one can use the sanitary facilities!
[[preprinted] 74 [[/preprinted]] The food is not so bad altho' a trifle heavy -- lots of meats and starches. One day the water tasted a little peculiar, as if vegetables had been washed in it, but they assured us it was boiled, so we continued on faith (Excuse partial repetition). Up until now I have made only one reference to Dr E.W. Taylor's writings. He was the father of the present Mr Taylor. He had a degree in Medicine, from Chicago. I believe he got it in order to show the Danish doctors that he could have as many degrees as they. It seems they had objected to his dispensing simple home remedies. In a way he was the first Homeopath on the island. In order to show his medical ability he went to Chicago and received a [[strikethrough]] Dr's [[/strikethrough]] M.D. degree and later did the same in London. Strange to say, he was averse to vaccination, and he says it is because of danger of infection, because [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] the arm to arm method is used (look this up some day!) Anyway, he claims that numerous skin diseases are hereby acquired, as [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 75 [[/preprinted]] well as venereal diseases and leprosy. Therefore, he paid a yearly fine of what approximated 50 cents a head for each member of his family so that they could escape vaccination. Dr Taylor wrote several books, of which I have read "An Island of the Sea" and "Leaflets of the Danish West Indies." The former is the most interesting. It contains some interesting short stories of Bluebeard's Castle, and Blackbeards Castle, as well as other legends of pirates and their doings. In order not to forget general plot I shall outline one or two which would make excellent short stories. Bluebeard's Castle -- Mercedita A. Bluebeard goes to sea leaving a casket in his wife's care. 1. Dont open it unless I am gone longer than a year. B. Before year is up Mercedita is overcome with curiosity. 1. Opens box 2. Finds love letters to B.B from several ladies in town
[[preprinted]] 76 [[/preprinted]] 3. Cannot shut box. C. Consults Obeah woman as to what to do. 1. Invite them to tea & I'll give you something to [[insertion]] ^ put in food to [[/insertion]] make them forget your husband D. Mercedita invites them to tea. E. All ladies, die F. Mercedita brought to trial. 1. Obeah woman missing 2. M. accused to witch craft & sentenced to be burnt G. Bluebeard returns and rescues her. I have a feeling that Emma Lindsey Squier wrote something along this line in a good Housekeeping. in all likelihood she heard it, as she stayed at the 1829 some year ago. Another good story if that of:- --John Teach and the Education of Eva Wilson He sends her, a 13 year old girl, to Denmark to be educated, so that when she returns she will be worthy to be his wife. She knows nothing of this, altho' her aunt & guardian does. While in Denmark she falls in love & marries a man [[end page]] [[start page] [[preprinted]] 77 [[/preprinted]] who is going to the colonies to apprehend a certain pirate (same John Teach). Not only is J.T. caught, but it later develops that John had gained his first ill-gotten wealth by robbing the very man to whom Eva is married. --John Teaches Doubloons A fairly good ghost story of wealth acquired with the aid of a ghost. Divi-divi the money lender gets the house which had belonged to John Teach and the ghost helps him to find the fortune. Gertrude Atherton visited the Taylors many years ago when she was writing "the Conqueror". Dr Taylor was alive then. He would have been quite amazed -- so says his son -- to hear she had undergone the Rejuvination Process which she has. The story of this appeared in one of the current magazines. "Liberty" I believe. This Saturday afternoon we took a walk up the hill behind the 1829 -- the wall described by Aspinall as "the rough path to Mafalie" -- which [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 78 [[/preprinted]] is now nicely paved. We did not go all the [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] way [[insertion]] ^ to Mafalie [[/insertion]] but far enough to get a good view of the city and bay. We took a picture of this. Sunday October 20, This afternoon we took a car and went for a drive to the East end of the island. From there we could see St John, Tortola, Anegada and numerous small islands. We got out at Casse hill and took a picture of the islands, and on our way back, from [[strikethrough]] collecting on [[/strikethrough]] the point, we did a little collecting -- I should say Dick did. We drove back to St Thomas, town. by way of Smith Bay and the swampy part of the south shore. Then we drove to the French village -- usually called Cha-Cha. This is composed of shacks, and altho' these people are supposed to be "clean moral & intelligent" their ways of living are to be deplored. They live in shacks and shanties, which dont look any too healthful, altho' their interiors may belie the exteriors. These people make a living by fishing, and weaving reed baskets and bags. They wear funny [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 79 [[/preprinted]] Norman French hats -- shaped [[image]] -- both men & women wear them. From Cha-Cha we went to Lindbergh Bay -- formerly mosquito Bay -- which has just undergone a clean up campaign. On this bay is a bathing beach, with a new and improved bath house, which contains a "flush toilet" -- wonder of wonders! The C.C. camp is on the hill over looking the bay. They have a clean tidy looking bunch of bldgs. The cost of this 6 hr ride was $7.50 Before I forget I want to put down some dates of bad hurricanes and earthquakes which have struck St Thomas. E -- Sunday April 9, 1690 [[strikethrough]] H -- October 29, 1867 [[/strikethrough]] H -- July 20, 1695 H -- October 29, 1867} Two worst in the E -- November 18,1867 } hist. of the island H -- October 23, 1871 H -- August 19, 1893. There seem to be a tendency for the worst winds to strike St. Thomas [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 80 [[/preprinted]] in October. In Jamaica, I believe they fear August most. Monday October 21 Most of the morning was spent in shopping and making arrangements to leave. In the afternoon we sent on a collecting trip out to the race track and the surrounding pasture. It was rather a warm afternoon but there was a nice breeze most of the time. When I got home I took my courage in both hands and indulged in my first shower bath. It wasn't so bad, and put me in a good enough frame of mind to believe that I could, if I had to, stomach the 1829 for a few weeks longer. Maybe this was a reaction because I knew I was leaving next day. Tuesday October 22 At noon we sailed on the Furness Line "Nerissa" for Guadeloupe. The ship is a very nice one and it is a relief to get in a clean tidy place -- and best of all excellent food. The chef certainly knows how to make consommé. In the afternoon we arrived at [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 81 [[/preprinted]] [[underline]] St Croix [[/underline]] We anchor in the road stead and go ashore in small, and large, row boats. I slept most of the [[strikethrough]] m [[/strikethrough]] time we were at anchor. Just got up in time to see us sail. The next morning we arrived at -- Wednesday, Oct 23, [[underline]] St Kitts [[/underline]] A very pretty island, from what I could see from the ship. We took pictures of it, and of views in the distance. I bought some dark glasses to protect my eyes from glare, and was rewarded by having an overcast day. [[strikethrough]] ? [[/strikethrough]] The Captain's name is Drysdale. Least I forget -- I met a lady on this cruise, to-day, who didnt know she had been to St Thomas, nor did she know the names of the islands she was going to visit. [[end page]]
[[pre-printed]] 82 [[/pre-printed]] [[underlined]] Guadeloupe [[/underliner]] Oct 24, 1935 The first view we had of this island was when the boat [[strikethrough]] docked [[/strikethrough]] anchored at Basse-Terre. We stayed here a good part of the morning, that is, until 9 or later, and then the boat left for Point-a-Pitre. Had we known we could just as well have gotten off at Basse-Terre, because we later made it our headquarters. We arrived at Point-a-Pitre before noon, and we decided to get off the boat before lunch. We were rowed to shore for the sum of 25 cents a piece and 50 cents for the baggage. When we got to the customs house he asked to pick out 2 pieces of baggage to inspect -- the dunnage bag and Dick's brown suitcase -- and after giving them a superficial look over he passed us thru'. Then we had the problem of getting our bags to the hotel. For a dollar we got a boy to take the things in a cart, while we walked. A boy from St Thomas who spoke French, Spanish & English showed us the way and acted as our interpreter. My first glimpse of the hotel was [end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 83 [[/pre-printed]] enough to make me want to turn back, but being given the necessary push by Dick we went in, and on up to the real hotel part. The ground floor was a spacious, if not so well kept, bar. Upstairs was the dining room and hotel rooms, and on the 3rd floor more rooms. We took our room up here [[arrow pointing to "3rd floor"]] The price quoted to us was 90 francs a day for both of us, for everything including red and white wine with meals. At the present rate of exchange -- 15 francs for one dollar -- this means $3.00 a day. Our room is not so bad, [[insertion]] ^ and [[/insertion]] altho' clean enough, it faces on the street and gets all the dirt and smells. The place is alive with mosquitoes, and Flit has to be used generously. The food is fairly good. I find that my slight knowledge of French is going to come in very handy, and I have already been installed as interpreter. (dollar a year woman) Point-a-Pitre isnt much of a town, from what I could see of it. The stores are all holes in walls. The street aren't specially clean, altho' there are side walks. Garbage is collected
[[pre-printed]] 84 [[/pre-printed]] twice a day. Once by auto truck, in the morning, and a smaller cleaning by cart in the afternoon. Try as they might the town fails to give one the impression of cleanliness. Once again we ran across some very hot weather, altho' the night was cool enough for sleeping. The town seems closed up tight by 9 o'clock and by 10 everyone should be in bed. They rise early -- by being awakened at 6 o'clock by the maid who brings a cup of coffee and some bread -- French style, and if they like they have a little more breakfast later. We went down at 8 for our breakfast of hot milk and coffee with bread. [[margin]] Oct 25, 1935 [[/margin]] Most of the morning was spent making arrangements to go to Basse-Terre. Dick went to get his license in Point-a-Pitre but was told that he'd have to get it when he got to Basse Terre. At 2:30 we got into the little Citroen which we had rented --- this time with chauffeur, as Dick didn't have his license --- and started on our way to Basse-Terre. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 85 [[/pre-printed]] This day I was really called upon to use my French, as the chauffeur didnt speak anything but. Also we arrived a little late in Basse-Terre, for license getting. At the Treasury, where we had to pay 100 fr 1 sou, the gentleman in charge of those payments had already closed his office, but as he was there he very obligingly opened up for us. Everywhere they were most polite and helpful. Then we went to the office of the Chief of the 2nd Bureau. Here M. Zerbib helped Dick a little as he spoke some [[strikethrough]] French [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] English [[/insertion]]. The most amazing part of the afternoon was when Dick took the driving test, without ever having driven that kind of car before. As luck would have it he pulled the right gadgets and we were off in great style. After a little more testing we were told to [[strikethrough]] coml [[/strikethrough]] come back in the morning and all would be ready. Our next problem was what to do with the boy chauffeur as [[strikethrough]] o [[/strikethrough]] he had been told to stay with us until we got the license. Finally we decided to take him up the hill to Matauba with us.
[[pre-printed]] 86 [[/pre-printed]] The British Consul, Louis Devaux, had recommended L'Auberge de la Riviere Rouge to us so that is where we went. We arrived about nightfall and were greeted by the garcon d'hotel -- in the absence of the lady who manages the place -- who showed us 5 [[insertion]] 4 [[/insertion]] rooms & gave us our pick. We chose one of the front ones facing on the road. The cottage itself is rather nice. It has a little veranda across the front of it and the place is not so very old. The toilet is inside, but shower in a separate room outside. The bathroom, with tub, has not as yet been completed. There is a decided chill in the air, and a jacket and sweater are most welcome. Dinner is at 7:30 and there being little else to do after that, we go to bed. This morning when we were in Point-a-Pitre, I heard a drum roll, and when I looked out of our window into the street below I saw a policeman reading something aloud to the nearby gathered populace. When I [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 87 [[/pre-printed]] asked the chamber maid what it was she said he was making a Proclamation. As he stopped at every corner and did the same thing, I suppose it must have been pretty important. [[margin]] Saturday October 26 [[/margin]] We got up by 8 and after breakfast --- without corn flakes for Dick --- we went down to get the license. It was all accomplished in good time. We also bought a map of the island. In the afternoon we took a walk up the hill behind Matouba. The scenery and vegetation are something to marvel about. Here in the garden they have several hedges of azaleas --- enough to make even a Californian's eyes pop! The countryside is full of wildflowers of many kinds. [[margin]] Sunday Oct 27 [[/margin]] Today we set out to circle the island, but we hadnt counted on the poorness of the roads on the West coast. We got beyond Pointe Noire and then encountered a hill too steep for our little car to climb. We only tried it once, but there was no use straining the car. After all, we had found some good places to collect. For the first time
[[pre-printed]] 88 [[/pre-printed]] I saw a Cacao grove to really know what it was. Speaking of the roads, they are for the most part quite good. Up in the mountains are numerous cobble stone roads, and foot paths are criss-crossed all over the island. Many of the paths are wide enough for donkeys. This day being Sunday we saw numerous people dressed in their Sunday best. The costume of the women is most picturesque and old fashioned. The skirt is made of calico or some similar cloth, usually flowered. It is drawn up into the belt so that the embroidered, or lace, petticoat beneath can show. Sometimes it looks as if there were two paniers formed by the calico and many times it looks more like a bustle. The headdress is a large bandana tied in turban style. Almost all of the dresses have a large [[strikethrough]] fishue [[/strikethrough]] fichu which extends from the shoulders to the waist-band and is made of a different material -- usually a plain colored cloth. (page 104) [[end page]] [[start page]] [[pre-printed]] 89 [[/pre-printed]] [[margin]] Monday October 28 [[/margin]] I had a little cold to-day so we decided to stay home and rest. I sat on an easy chair in the sun, and so the day was passed. I asked the houseboy to fix us soup for lunch, and every day since, we have had some. I dont say anything about it as I like soup, and it is also something Dick can eat. He suffers more than I do when it comes to his food. I can eat, and enjoy, giblets, sweetbreads, fish, and red meat. We don't eat any fresh salads as we are afraid to, but the cooked salads aren't so bad. We wrote a few letters to-day too. [[margin]] Tuesday October 29 [[/margin]] I'm still resting a little. Dick went out and tried some collecting in the morning. In the afternoon we finished up our correspondence and went down to the Post office to mail our letters. All foreign [[strikethrough]] m [[/strikethrough]] mail is 1 f 50 cent. [[margin]] Wednesday October 30 [[/margin]] We took our lunch and started to drive to the northern end of the island. It was a lovely day. We drove beyond St Rose, and went down on a little beach where I collected a few shells. Right after lunch we found we had
[[preprinted]] 90 [[/preprinted]] a flat tire, which Dick changed in no time at all. Lamentin, one of the towns we passed, has a square of new buildings which is quite nice looking. A new cathedral and "Mairie", as well as a school house, are built around a central park. It is a very nice unit. I [[strikethrough]] p [[/strikethrough]] had Dick take a picture of one of the buildings. On the way home we went to Point-a-Pitre, where we had our tire fixed, and got some things out of the trunk. We also went to see the Br. Consul and the Furness Agent - the latter about mail ^[[insertion]] none. [[/insertion]] Paul Dormoy. [[margin]] Thursday October 31 [[/margin]] Nothing much to-day. Did a little collecting up the trail to the east of us. [[margin]] Friday Nov 1, 1935 [[/margin]] It rained most of the day at a pretty steady rate. In the morning the man who rented us the car, brought his Ford up for us to use - he was going to do this a week ago. In the afternoon we went to town where we were going to do some shopping for groceries, but we found everything closed because of holiday. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 91 [[/preprinted]] We had a rotten lunch, and it so annoyed us that we were going to get some groceries of our own. However, dinner was a decided improvement, [[strikethrough]] as [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] since [[/insertion]] the other couple [[strikethrough]] were [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] was [[/insertion]] there [[strikethrough]] to eat [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] also [[/insertion]]. Also we had cheese, which had been requested for the earliest possible date. We have had very good Roquefort and Gruyere - what there was of it. We stopped at the Post Office and bought a nice bunch of stamps for my collection. At times like this I wish I were more wealthy. [[margin]] Saturday Nov 2, 1935 [[/margin]] In the morning we went for a little walk down the cobblestone road. Dick did some fairly successful collecting. In the afternoon we were all ready to start on our hike up Soufrière when we discovered that the starter on the car wouldnt work. Dont know whether it is starter or battery. However, after getting 3 men, besides Dick to push, [[strikethrough]] and my [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] with me [[/insertion]] stearing, we got it up the hill enough to start it, and off we went. When we arrived at what seemed the logical place we parked the car and started walking along
[[preprinted]] 92 [[/preprinted]] [[strikethrough]] a flat tire [[/strikethrough]] the road marked Parinass. After about a kilometer we decided we were walking away from Soufrière, so we asked a boy if we were on the right road - which we weren't - so we had to turn around and go back. The other sign post said Bains Jaune. Why they couldn't mark it Soufrière I do not know. Probably the guides saw to it! We walked up the hill to what we think was the Bains. Anyway it is a nice pool built at the mouth of a spring. The water would have been quite warm enough to swim in - but it wasn't hot, as I had hoped and expected. This is about an hour and a half climb - over 3 kilo meters. We did not go on as it was getting too late, and we reached the car just as it was getting too dark to see clearly. There was a most beautiful sunset too. Up until to-day we had been most excited about living on the side of the volcano Soufrière, but upon thumbing thru the guide [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 93 [[/preprinted]] book I [[strikethrough]] find [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] found [[/insertion]] that we weren't living near the ^[[insertion]] most [[/insertion]] famous one at all. The one which erupted when Pele did is on the island of St. Vincent, so we still have that to get excited about all over again. This place goes Mexico one or two better. So far we have had 3 days of holiday, and now Sunday. Then next week the 9th and 10 are also holidays. I wonder how many more they will have before Christmas. [[margin]] Sunday Nov 3. [[/margin]] This was a real day of rest resulting in our doing nothing. Dick put away a few specimens, and I read. Apart from that the day was a wash out. [[margin]] Monday Nov 4. [[/margin]] Woke up remembering this was Aunt Hat's birthday. In the morning we took a walk down to the place where Dick had previously found things in a culvert - not quite so successful this time. The auto is still acting terrible, and we had to have help to push it out of the garage. Dick had to crank it 3 times as it also stalls easily. And cranking in the hot tropical sun is no joke. We went to town to the Ford place to see if they couldnt fix us up
[[preprinted]] 94 [[/preprinted]] with a battery - no soap. Then we went to a man who charges batteries, in St. Claude, and he didnt even have one to rent us, so we came home without it. To add to the general mess the grease from the gear shift is welling up around the ball and flowing over the front floor. What a car! It would have been better had we not traded the other car. While in town we also bought a few groceries to help us fill ourselves on the frequent occasions when we dont have enough here. I had occasion to go into a grocery store "epicier" and noted that their chief stock in trade is wines and cans of fish. The only canned fruit available - and this in the largest place in Basse-Terre - was a gallon sized can of Sunbeam mixed fruits for salad. Therefore, I had to be satisfied with a can of Guava jelly, swiss chocolat (3.5 a bar or nearly 20 cents), some cheese, cookies made in France, and some canned milk, Nestlé. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 95 [[/preprinted]] I also went to the P.O. in Basse-Terre and discovered that they had changed the Pan-American schedule again. Air mail leaves here Monday & arrives Friday from the U.S. Most of the P.O. employees are women and some are plenty dumb. One gentleman had a hard time convincing one of the post mistresses that just because a letter was sealed with wax, it was no sign that it was an official letter. Dick has invented a game of cards called "Crummy Rummy". [[margin]] Tues Nov 5th [[/margin]] This was one of the famous rainy days. the only thing different on the horizon is the new waiter - he was at the Antilles in Pointe-a-Pitre. - service is improved but I wonder about the food. [[margin]] Wed Nov 6. [[/margin]] Dick went out in the morning to collect, and I stayed home to wash my hair and do some other odds and ends. Net result of the hair wash, I now wear said cheveux à la Alice in Wonderland. In the afternoon we braved the wilds of the ford V.8. and went
[[preprinted]] 96 [[/preprinted]] to Basse-Terre again, where Dick got some money from the bank. The car added the little trick of boiling, to its repertoire of antics. The one time it needed cranking it refused to budge so we had to get some men to help push it. A great big moth scared me out of the dining room this evening. [[margin]] Thurs. Nov 7. [[/margin]] A perfectly rotten breakfast. No eggs - until the boy scurried around and got some - and never at all any fruit. Opened the can of Nestlé milk so I could have something to drink (I found it very good) We walked up to what is called the Indian Village but found it no different from other villages. On one of the rises of the hill we got a marvelous view of the Saintes, and Dominica in the distance. We came home with rain following us, and got in just in time. For the first time I used the shower bath provided "par la direccion" for the comfort (?) of its guests. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 97 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] Nov 8, 1935 [[/margin]] Most of the day to-day was spent in gathering up the walking sticks brought to us by the boys around the place. Dick has a list of how many were brought to us. In the morning we went up the hill on the trail above Matouba as Dick wanted to work some logs. Up there I saw ferns as tall as trees. Maybe they are tree ferns - I dont know. The fronds seem to grow from a central mass which many times gets as tall as a small elm. We also saw a very odd lily. The afternoon was spent writing letters. [[margin]] Sat Nov 9, 1935 [[/margin]] The morning was spent packing and doing other things preparatory to our long-looked-forward-to departure. Shortly after lunch we started - very glad to get away from the bum food. We arrived in Pointe-a-Pitre in the early afternoon - went to the Furness for mail (unsuccessful) and to deliver the car. The owner was not in, so we were afraid we would have to leave the car on the street during the night. However, the owner saw it in the street and he came by for it that evening. We had to take a room on the first floor as the hotel was full
[[preprinted]] 98 [[/preprinted]] many people having come in town to take the boat to France to-morrow. There was one lady who specially amused me at dinner. She was a woman about 35 with her hair done back with a ribbon. At dinner she pulled a chair up close to her own, and her little heinz pooch jumped up on it and sat beside her. No matter where we go except on board ship, we always seem to have an animal or two hanging around the table. At the Auberge there were several dogs. Gin-the dog belonging to the management. "Gin's wife" as Meme upstairs called her. And best of all a little ratty puppy with the cutest face and actions. He looked just like a little bat, and it was most amusing to watch him dance around trying to get Dick's attention. Then when Dick does play with him the little animal almost turns himself inside out. He is the daintiest eater I've ever seen-for a dog. Here at the hotel Dick has a little kitten-which I usually feed! [[end page]] [[new page]] [[preprinted]] 99 [[/preprinted]] Sunday Nov 10, 1935 not such an eventful day, except for two pretty good earthquake shocks. The first was most severe and lasted about 1/2 second. That night there were 3 other shocks. One strong enough to wake me up, one about 15 minutes later, and the other so slight that I thought it imagination. In the late afternoon we moved up to the second floor, but we still do not have the room we expect to have later. We got some mail, which was very welcome. I was quite relieved to hear that Mother was better-I had been a little worried. Mon, Nov 11, 1935 Today was Armistice Day-and a holiday-yet in spite of all the celebration I would not have realized that is was also celebrated in the U.S. We are getting so used to the numerous holidays here that another means little or nothing. It certainly is nice to be some place where we get good food. The wine is excellent too, altho' I do the drinking for the family. For breakfast we have chocolate (real good) instead [[end page]]
[[preprinted]] 100 [[/preprinted]] of the unspeakable coffee. If Dick could have cornflakes we would be completely happy. It is quite a bit hotter here in Pointe-a-Pitre - rather unusual for this time so we are told - and the mosquitoes are large and voracious. However, Dick says we will get in training for Trinidad. I for one will be very glad to get on the Nerissa. I wanted some lard to rub into some ^[[insertion]] axel [[/insertion]] grease spots on Dick's suit - acquired from our wonderful rented car - and I found that this hotel had no such thing. All their cooking is done with butter and oil. However, they sent out for some for me, and I bought a francs worth which was brought in to me on a large glossy leaf. I had enough leftover to fill 2 large vials. [[margin]] Nov 12, 1935 [[/margin]] I find these people of a very religious temperament. Every morning at 6 the bells begin ringing for mass, and very shortly after you can hear people hurrying down the street to church. Churches of all sorts and [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 101 [[/preprinted]] descriptions dot the countryside, and many of the small towns boast nice new cathedrals - the one in St. Anne is specially beautiful. Near St. Claude is a monastery and several priests ride motorcycles. It is rather quaint to see them in their long robes, astride a motor. A sun helmet perched on the head completes the picture [[arrow in left margin pointing to previous days entry on left hand page]] I forgot to mention that last night in honor of Armistice Day there was a street parade. The local band, with its band master resplendent in a burnished helmet, furnished a type of march, and the paraders followed. All of them were black and quite a few carried burning torches. They marched up one street and down another. This set us to wondering what was taking place in Ethiopia. The afternoon to-day we moved into a nice corner room. The management does its best to please us, [[margin]] Wed Nov 13 [[/margin]] After breakfast we went over to see the owner of the car, and to arrange to pay our bill. He said he would come this evening at 5, but he did not
[[preprinted]] 102 [[/preprinted]] show up. I wrote quite a few letters, which will most likely be mailed in Trinidad, postage being what it is here 1.50(10 cents) Our laundry came back, and it was a pleasure to find it really well done. If one has to pay these fabulous prices for laundry it should at least look well when it returns. I get quite a kick looking out of our window at night. There is very little traffic - in fact none. The little boys in the nearby houses get out on their bicycles and go zooming around the block. As they come to a corner they start barking at the dogs gathered nearby. At that the dogs chase the bicycle and a great deal of fun is had by all. At that time of night it is certainly a Paradise for little boys. On the balconies, of the houses above the various stores, the older folks gather. Inside the house a phonograph may be grinding out atrocious music. No matter whether the machine is running down or is in a groove, the music is enjoyed all the [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 103 [[/preprinted]] same. In the early evening I can hear someone practising laboriously on a violin. In another house some one is making a very good piano imitation of modern American music. I myself am rather glad when 5:30 comes and the cooler night is on its way. Many of the children wear light sun helmets - just enough to keep the sun from being too hot on their heads. It is quite amusing to see some of these little 3 year olds walking along with a helmet on. School hours seem to be from 8 to 11 and from 2 to 4. What a clatter there is when they get out of school at 4! One of their favorite play places is the place on the street corner where water flows out of the mains, and down the gutter. They squirt the water on each other and have a great deal of fun. Across the street is a barber shop - salon de coiffure - and painted on his door is the following: - "Nouvelist de la Guadeloupe" and we wonder if that means barber shop gossip! He
[[preprinted]] 104 [[/preprinted]] also advertises that he cuts the waves in hair - or removes kink. His shop is fitted out with all kinds of fancy bottles of lotions. I bet his customers smell like concentrated garden odor when they get out. To-day upon closer observation I notice that the panier effect on the costumes is made in a very simple manner. The skirt is very full and a part of it about 1/3 of the way down is tucked into the belt thus causing it to fall in an uneven hemline and showing off the petticoat. If this is done on each side it makes a panier effect. [[margin]] Thurs. Nov 14, 1935 [[/margin]] This morning we rented a Citroen from the garage downstairs and set out for a days ride around Grande Terre. The people in the country do not seem nearly as friendly as the ones on Bass-Terre. It is rare to have them say "bon jour" first. On the other hand, they are more curious than the people of Basse-Terre were - for all their friendliness. We were successful in getting a number of collecting [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 105 [[/preprinted]] stations, and we took several pictures which should prove interesting. One of a new cathedral and a shrine etc. While sitting in the car waiting for Dick to do some collecting I noticed that even he was not without a picturesque costume. Big boots, tipped with red from his wool socks, kaki (?) pants, tucked into the boots, a blue shirt, which nearly matches the sky, and topping it all a white helmet. For all the combination he isn't such a bad looking specimen. Our trip was otherwise uneventful and we arrived back at the hotel at 2:30. Strange to say we have heard nothing from the man who rented us the other car, altho' we have offered to pay him. Can it be he is not interested in monetary gain? I can hardly believe it since last night his brother came to us greatly perturbed to find out if we had paid the man from the Citroen garage. It seems they had been accusing each other of receiving the money, but I think we straightened the matter for him
[[preprinted]] 106 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] Fri. Nov 15, 1935 [[/margin]] Here it is the middle of the month, and time going fairly rapidly although some days drag. When I woke up this morning Dick said ^[[insertion]] that [[/insertion]] we had another quake last night, which woke him up but disturbed me not. Did some packing this morning and was most unsuccessful in getting Dick to go out and do some errands. [[margin]] Sat. Nov 16, 1935 [[/margin]] Morning was spent in last minute packing and arrangements. Dick went down to the P.O. & was lucky enough to get Ed's air mail in answer to our proposed change of schedule. He said "go ahead". I fixed up the matter of the payment for the car, after 3 people had been sent to collect an incorrect billing. We had lunch at the hotel and then went aboard. Our embarcation fees came to $ 3 dollars ($1 for trunk, $1 for baggage to wharf, $1 for from wharf to steamer) We arrived at [[double underlined]] Dominica [[/double underlined]] after dinner. Dick went ashore with Mr. W.H. Archer to get some of our mail which had already been sent there. There were a few letters, but the thesis which he hoped to get was not there. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 107 [[/preprinted]] [[margin]] Sun Nov 17, 1935 [[/margin]] [[double underlined]] Martinique [[/double underlined]] Looks like a fairly prosperous island. We did not go ashore. Shortly after lunch we sailed. We tried to get the same waiter as we had in the dining room [[strikethrough]] s [[/strikethrough]] before, but were unsuccessful. [[double underlined]] St. Lucia [[/double underlined]] We arrived here around tea time. Even tho' it was Sunday a good few of the stores were open, as was the post office. Naturally I bought so me stamps of the jubilee issue (1/2d, 2d, 2 1/2d, 1s). Seemingly there were not as many varieties as in Jamaica. The "Lady [[strikethrough]] Summers [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] Hawkins [[/insertion]]" came in shortly after we did, and we sailed before she did. I rather like the looks of St Lucia. It seems a pretty little place. [[margin]] Monday Nov 18, 1935 [[/margin]] [[double underlined]] Barbados[[/double underlined]] Last night at dinner I asked to have avocado for salad. It was on the menu under salads, but the waiter informed us that it was [[strikethrough]] commonly [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] usually [[/insertion]] eaten as dessert. The chef - or whoever it was in the kitchen - had never heard of it being eaten for
[[preprinted]] 108 [[/preprinted]] salad, yet he has been coming to these islands for quite a while. The waiter knew little or nothing about them as he was a New Yorker and rarely saw them. Nevertheless, I finally got my 1/2 avocado with the Thousand island dressing on another plate. About 11 o'clock this morning I decided that I would like to go ashore. It had been raining, but it looked somewhat cleared. We had to take a launch in and just as we got to the [[strikethrough]] laln [[/strikethrough]] landing the [[strikethrough]] boat [[/strikethrough]] rain began to come down in torrents. However, after a few minutes of hard pouring it stopped and we went ashore. Right at the landing is the Tourist Information Bureau, where they sell stamps & coins, and give one information about hotels & boarding houses as well as arranging for sightseeing parties. I bought myself some of the jubilee stamps. Then we went up town to window shop and try to buy a Cosmopolitan & Good Housekeeping, which Mrs Willis informed me had not arrived. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 109 [[/preprinted]] We took the 1 o'clock launch back to the boat. Very few people had come back for lunch, so it seemed as if we were late at first. The boat sailed at 4 o'clock for Trinidad. Dick & I have been reading "Personal History" and we found it most interesting. [[ 2x underlined]] Index [[/2x underlined]] Abaco Island, Great 55 Aguadilla 43 Air Mail 22, 95, 106 American Caribbean S.S.Co. 72 American Legation 47 Anegada Island 78 "An Island of the Sea" 75 Aquarium Restaurant 66 Archer, Mr.W.H. 106 Armistice Day 99, 101 Aspinall, Sir Algernon 77 Atherton, Gertrude 77 Auberge de la Riviere Rouge 86, 98 Aubry, Mr. 10, 11, 14, 23 Arctmayer, Mrs. 70
[[preprinted]] 110[[/preprinted]] Bailey, Mr. 54, 66 Band concerts 22, 23, 25 Barbados 107-109 Barker, Mr.& Mrs. 5, 37 Barnes, Mr. Ralph 3, 13, 14, 17, 19, 20, 21, 29, 30, 36, 41 Basse Terre 82, 84, 90, 93, 96, 104 Beach 63 Beetles 63, 65 Beggars 57, 58 Bizoton 18 Blackbeard's Castle 75 Bluebeard's Castle 75 Bombache 14, 27, 28 Boynton Haynes 36 British Consul 36, 90 Bull Insular S.S. Co. 67, 71 Burt, Struthers 21, 28 Cacao 88 Capital Hotel 49, 69 Capt. Drysdale 81 Capt. Haraldsen 41 Casse Hill 78 Cha-Cha Village 78 Chardon, Dr. 50 Childers, J.S. 29 Citroën 84, 104 Coins 10 [end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 113 [[/preprinted]] Columbian S.S. Co. 8 Columbus Day 64 Condado-Vanderbilt Hotel 49, 63 Cosmopolitan magazine 108 Creole 23 Crummy Rummy 95 Cuba 55 Cul de Sac Plaine 18 Customs 1, 2, 45, 49, 82 Darlington, P.J. 1 Davis, H.P. 26 Delmar, Vina 40 Dessalines statue 8 Detective 54 Dominguez, Lopez 52 Dominica 96,106 Dominican Consul 35 Dominican Republic 45-48 Dormoy, Paul 90 Drinks 4, 12, 14 Earthquake 99 Ed 106 "Entertaining the Islanders" 21 Ethiopia 101 Evacuation Day 9, 25 Evertson, Mr. "Ten" 49, 69 Experiment Station 52
[[preprinted]] 114 [[/preprinted]] Fairchild, Johnny 4 Feeley, Mr. 45 Fife, Mr. 59, 60, 61, 62 Florida 22, 54 Food 4, 51, 48, 56, 66, 72, 74, 80, 84, 90, 94, 96, 99, 100, 107 Gantendein, Mr. 47 Gonane Island 18 Good Housekeeping magazine 5, 76, 109 Grande Terre 104 Guadeloupe 80, 82-106 Haber, Mr. 12, 18 Haiti 1-44, 54 Halliburton, Richard 30 Hotel des Antilles 82, 83, 95 Hotel Sans Souci 1, 2, 36 Hotel Splendid 1 Hurricane 22, 54, 55, 79 Jamaica 2, 32, 55, 80, 107 John Teach 76 Kenscoff 17 Kreuger's Hotel 71 Lafferty, Mrs. 41, 42 Lamentin 90 "Leaflets of the Danish West Indies" 75 Lester, Miss 59, 61 Letter of Introduction 2 Licenses 50, 84, 87 [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 115 [[/preprinted]] Lindbergh Bay 79 Loederer, Richard 26 Lowell, Joan 30 Lykes Bros. S. S. Co. 41, 43, 44, 67 Mail 57, 63, 99, 106 Marines, U.S. 9, 36, 44 Martinique 107 Massif de la Selle 18 Matouba 85, 87 Mayaguez 56, 59, 62 McCarthy, Mrs. 7, 13 Meringues 23 Mexico 6, 11, 13, 28, 93 Morals & propriety 30 Mosquito Bay 79 Motorcycle 49, 54, 66, 101 "Mycological Explorations in Venezuela" 51 O'Grady, Mr. 41, 44 Olimpo Court Apartments 51, 69 Owrey, W. P. 59, 60, 62, 65 Ozama River 45 Pele 93 "Personal History" 109 Petionville 17 Pointe-a-Pitre 82, 83, 86, 90, 95, 97, 100 Pointe Noire 87 Polley, Mr. & Mrs. Geo. 37
[[preprinted]] 116 [[/preprinted]] Ponce 42 Port-au-Prince 18, 37, 44 Porto Rico S.S. Co. 48 P.R.E.R.A. 51 "Principles of Insect Morphology 64 Puerto Rico 42, 49-70 Radio 54, 56 Rates 4, 49, 51, 67, 71, 79, 82 Rio Piedras 52 Rooms 3, 72 Roosevelt 14, 30 Ruane, Jack 8, 12, 14, 34, 37, 38 Saintes, The 96 San Juan 49, 54 Santo Domingo 36, 45, 54 Santurce 67 Saturday Review 26 Seabrooke, "Voodoo" 30 Senior, Mme. 45, 46 Service Technique 5 Sisal 19, 20, 21 Snodgrass 64 Soufrière 91, 92 Squier, Emma Lindsay 76 S.S. Catherine 67, 70, 71 S.S. Coamo 48 S.S. Genevieve 41 [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 117 [[/preprinted]] S.S. Lady Hawkins 107 S.S. Nerissa 80 Stamps 35, 36, 59, 91, 107, 108 St. Claude 101 St. Croix 73, 81 Stein Song 25 Sterno Stone 66 St. John 78 St. Kitts 81 St. Lucia 107 St. Rose 89 St. Thomas 71-80 St. Vincent 93 Swanson, Neil 30 Taylor, Dr. T.W. 73, 74, 77 Taylor's "1829" Hotel 71, 73 Teeth 31, 33, 34, 63 Tennis 3, 5, 12 Thebaud, Dr. 33, 34 "The Conqueror" 77 Tortola 78 Tourists 25, 26, 38, 40 Traveler's Cheques 29 Trinidad 100, 102, 109 Trujillo 48 Union Club 51, 56, 59, 60, 62, 66 United Fruit Co. 48
[[preprinted]] 118 [[/preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Things I've forgotten to write about [[/underlined]] [[place names in left margin]] Haiti Preference for dried fish. Sto Domingo Two wheeled carts; people at Mine " [[ditto for: Sto Domingo]] Seniors - Lewis', Evertson, Owens, " [[ditto for: Sto Domingo]] Summers (of G.E.) Jones " [[ditto for: Sto Domingo]] Meeting Pulliam as we were sailing Haiti "Hayti or the Black Republic, " [[ditto for: Haiti]] by Sir Spencer St. John. " [[ditto for: Haiti]] "Rebel Destiny" " [[ditto for: Haiti]] Herskovitz (knows a great deal bout (Voodoo) " [[ditto for: Haiti]] "White King of La Gonave" Sto Domingo Mme's remark about the negro chauffeur sitting while I " [[ditto for: Sto Domingo]] stood and talked to him Haiti Orange & Onion Salad - Mr Barnes' idea St [[strikethrough]] Lucia [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] Vincent [[/insertion]] Mr McLeod (sp?) bandage on eyes. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 119 [[/preprinted]] University of Puerto Rico 50 Valle, Mr. 41, 43 Virgin Islands 14, 36, 71-80 Volcano 72, 91 Voodoo 26, 27 "Voodoo Fire" 26 Walking-Sticks 97 Webb, Guy 37 Willis, Mrs. 108 Wolcott, Mr. 52 Woolley, Mr. 1 Wyss, Esther 5, 7 Zerbib, M. 85
[[Preprinted]] 120 [[2x underlined]] Government officials[[/2x underlined]] - [[2x underlined]] Heads [[/2x underlined]] Jamaica Gov. Gen Sir Edward Denham formerly of Br. Guiana - Haiti Pres. Vincent Dominican Republic Pres. Trujillo Barbados - Colonial Secretary (acting) C. A. Reed Dominica -Administrator H. B. Popham St-Lucia -Administrator Edward Baynes St Vincent - Administrator Arthur Grumble Antiqua - Acting Colonial Secretary C. G. Langham American Virgin Is. -Governor Lawrence W. Cramer [[end page]] [[start page]] [[blank page]]
[[stamped]] B&P No 13535 [[/stamped]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[blank page]]
[[blank back cover]]
[[front cover]] November 1935 - January 1936 Trinidad Grenada St. Vincent
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[blank page]]
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 1 [[\preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Trinidad [[\underlined]] [[underlined]] Tuesday November 19, 1935 [[\underlined]] We were up bright and early as we had to see the immigration officers at 7. We passed their security without ado, and after a nice breakfast we got ready to leave the ship. The Furness Co. provides a launch, free of charge, so at 8 we took the first launch ashore. This trip is a fairly long one compared to the short distance on the other islands. The lighter, carrying our luggage, was towed along by the launch which we were on. One of the young ladies who went ashore with us, whom I had previously seen on the 2nd class deck, was painted to beat the band. She is rather a tough looking individual, for one so young, and all the paint failed to improve her looks. To cap it all she wore a long dress with a low back. Later on in the day we saw her following the Hotel de Paris porter around. She looked as I should imagine a "tart" would look. As we passed one of the piers there were two girls there seated on some boxes
[[preprinted]] 2 [[\preprinted]] - "Sailor's sweetheart", says Dick - and one young american girl who was getting off was asked not to judge Trinidad by those girls. I believe the words were, "dont judge Trinidad by that." I, having told Dick the night before, that I was going to let the arangements, for our place to stay, rest in his hands, was glad that I had done so, as I feel that things were done in better order and with less bother and stewing than ever before. There is an Information Bureau on the dock near the customs house, and Dick at once availed himself of the services offered. The lady in charge is most kind and accommodating. We had planned to go out to Green's in St Agustine, but we phoned first to see if it would be convenient. We were told that we couldnt come until Thursday morning. Later on Mrs Adamson told us that the only reason for the delay was that Mrs Green didn't think that she could get the room scrubbed and tidy in time. It happened that several other places in town were managed the same way, and as a result they didn't get our trade. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 3 [[\preprinted]] One of the last places phoned was Miss Huggins' (sister of George Huggins,) on Abercromby St. The lady at the Information Bureau insisted we be given the best price possible which was $2.00 a day - daily rate per person. We were told to look at the Hall, on Chancery Lane, if we didnt like Cumberland House. Their rate was $3.00 a day. However, we liked Cumberland house from the first, so we stayed without even taking a look at the Hall. The Customs house was in a state of repair, and as a result things were a little messy. Several times we escaped being hit with falling plaster. After a considerable wait we managed to get all our bags together, and the head customs inspector came over to look at them. I don't believe he opened a thing, altho' when Dick told him we had a radio he said we would have to leave it in the customs house unless we wanted to pay the necessary fees and duties in order to take it out. It would have been different had we had the radio over a year. As it was, it was going to cost too much & be [[strikethrough]] e [[/strikethrough]] too much of a
[[preprinted]] 4 [[\preprinted]] bother, so we decided to leave it. The head inspector whose name is Pouchette was very nice, and he offered to be of help when the motorcycle arives. We took our bags with us when we left, but the trunk remained in the Customs house until we decided where we wanted it sent. No porters, except those of the recognized hotels, are allowed in the Custom's house. In this way thefts are prevented, and it keeps the traveller from being hounded to death. After inspection we got into a taxi, & took our bags with us. First we went to Cumberland House and were shown a large corner room with windows on two sides. Next door is a nice tiled bathroom with running water, and a shower as well as a bath tub. The place was nice and tidy altho' a little paint would have very much improved the inside of the bed room. However, it is a decided improvement after Guadeloupe. Miss Maude Huggins is a nice little person very anxious to please, so without more ado I decided to take the room. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 5 [[\preprinted]] At 11:30 they have what they call breakfast, and one can be served until 1 altho' it is best to get there early. What they call morning tea we would call breakfast. Many people have it served in their rooms while they are dressing but others - such as us - get up and have it downstairs. Tea is at 4 and dinner is at 7:30. All the meals are excellent, and for once we get enough green vegetables. Dick can have his cornflakes in the morning, and limeade with his meals. The meats are well cooked and the curry is excellent. This same morning we went to town to do several errands. First of all to see the American Consul - Wallace E Moessner - who is also the consul for Switzerland. He was on his way out when we arrived, and he did not hesitate to inform us of the fact. Nevertheless, he went back to his office with us. I wouldn't say he was very cordial. As I wanted to have a prescription filled we asked about good drug stores and were told that Ross's & [[Gouia's?]] where equally good. We walked up Frederick
[[preprinted]] 6 [[\preprinted]] St and stopped at Ross's, where I left the prescription to be filled. (Cost 72 cents for one 84 for bromide) Ross's put me in mind of Ross Drug Co at 23rd & Lexington in N.Y. (which will be no more when we get back). We also went to the Canadian Bank of Commerce where we changed our Jamaica & Guadeloupe money. We lost $7.00 on approximately $200. The Trinidad dollar is worth 4 shillings 2 pence & the cent is equal to 1/2 d English. It is rather mixing at first as they quote prices in dollars & cents, yet one pays in English money. There are one, two, five, and twenty dollar bills issued. In the afternoon we went to town again. First to the docks to get the trunk sent out - 2 shillings for this - and then to shop around. Mrs. Willis had written me that neither the Good Housekeeping or Cosmopolitan had arrived last month, so I set out to see if I could buy those missing copies. I was lucky as far as Cosmopolitan was concerned - no luck with other [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 7 [[\preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Wednesday, November 20 1935. [[\underlined]] This morning Dick went to St. A ^[[insertion]] u[[/insertion]] gustine to see Mr Adamson. When he came home he told me that we had been pronouncing it incorrectly - the name of the town - it is St Augústine (accent on second syllable). Dick was rather late in returning and I had started lunch without him. I bought a Guardian in the morning so I was enjoying a newspaper once again. The Adamsons had invited us to dinner that evening, so about 7 o' clock Mr Adamson, and Mr (Prof) Urich came for us. This was the first time I had been in a rumble seat in ages, and it seemed queer at first. after the heavy rain of the afternoon the night was quite clear. It would have been just a little nicer had I had a light wrap. Prof. Urich informed us that had we had a net, we undoubtedly could have caught numerous Staphs by just letting it float in the wind. He also said that they fly into a person's eyes quite easily. I found Mrs Adamson much the same
[[preprinted]] 8 [[\preprinted]] as when we met them in Washington. This time we also met her (their [[insertion]] ? [[/insertion]]) small son Alper, who is a rather quiet young man of 8. We began the dinner with rum punches made by the Indian butler. He had learned how, it seems, from Urrich, but I did not think of them very highly. This is most likely because they contained a good deal more rum than the ones at the Sans Souci. The dinner was one of the nicest I've had in the West Indies. We began with soup, served in lacquer bowls. I've often wished I had some of those covered lacquer bowls from Chinatown San Francisco. Next was a delicious salad appetizer made of a ring of avocado, filled with marinaded shrimps, and garneshed with a small slice of tomato. Next was a beef roast, potatoes, and other vegetables. The dessert was bananas, and dates, covered with a cream sauce, & served in parfait glasses. I can see that Mrs Adamson is a person who likes nice things about her. Their house is new, and the furniture is [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 9 [[\preprinted]] simple, modern, and in keeping. What caught my eye was her collection of nice paintings & Chinese prints. She has one nice print of a house, and a fairly good Diego Rivera which she tells me is called Cortez capturing Cuernavaca. To me it looks like a number of men hanging from a tree. When we arrived there was another lady sitting talking to Mrs Adamson. Her name is Mrs Carmichael. In the course of the conversation we got around to the subject of how much extra the cooks make off of their employers, and I discovered that here they have the time honored (?) custom of "squeeze" down to almost as fine a point as in China. Mrs Carmichael had been in China, so she had a little to say about the matter. Mr Urich then told us the story of the talking fish. It seems that a man had a cook who was exacting more than her rightful "squeeze", so he decided to give her a lesson. One day she brought in a smallish fish and said that it had cost a shilling. "What" roared the man, "A shilling you say, I wager it was a lot less than
[[preprinted]] 10 [[/preprinted]] that". Whereupon the cook began her protestations of loyalty, and vowed she never would have thought of playing her master such a low trick. "Very well", said the man. "If you are as honest as you say you are, you wont mind my asking the fish to tell me how much you paid for it." To this the cook readily assented. "Fish", said the man. "Yes sir", replied the fish. "How much did this woman pay for you". "A six pence", replied the fish. At this the astounded woman fell on her knees and begged for mercy. "The fish do speak the truth", she wailed, and with fear and trembling she vowed that in the future she would be an honest woman Either I'm more English than the English, or else Mr Urich never got to the end of his story, for thus it ended, and I'm certain there should have been a story teller's denoument. Maybe no point was intended but I would surely say ventrilloquism. In the latter part of the evening we got around to the subject of authors and Urich proudly exhibited to us a [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 11 [[/preprinted]] recently received letter from Beebe. It also appears that Ditmars. . . . whom I had to admit I ^[[insertion]] had [[/insertion]] never heard of before that evening - and another fellow were down here and visited Urich. They then described his menage in one of their articles, taking many liberties for the sake of the story. A few days later I noticed the review of a recent book by William Bridges and Raymond L. Ditmars entitled, "Snake Hunter's Holiday". This is supposed to be all about vampire bats, and bushmasters in Trinidad and British Guiana. As I said before, I noticed a good many Chinese articles in the Adamson house, but she assures me that they were bought in California, and were not purchased in the local stores. It seems their collections here are rather poor. [[double underlined]] Thursday, November 21, 1935 [[/underlined]] This was rather uneventful. I spent a great deal of it reading the new Cosmopolitan I bought. I did go to town just to look around but saw little of importance
[[preprinted]] 12 [[/preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Friday, November 22, 1935 [[/underlined]] The morning was nice and rainy so I didn't go out. About 4:30 that Afternoon Mr. Adamson & Alper came by to take us to see the boat which is being built for the young man. On the way out we stopped and picked up Mr. Algernon (Poke) Wharton, and Richard (about the same age as Alper). We also met Mr Louis Wharton who is Richard's father. Mr Wharton has made most of the arrangements for the building of the boat. Alper is going to name it some Hawaiian name, which I have forgotten. The boats are rather crude affaires made by native workmen out of native woods. The finished article is not bad at all. They put the ribs into the boat after the hull is made! [[underlined]] Saturday, November 23 1935 [[/underlined]] This was quite a rainy morning, and when I say rainy I mean that it poured rain once or twice, and was overcast most of the day. At 2:30 Mrs. Adamson came by for us in her car, accompanied by Mrs Pike. Altho' the day had been rainy, they did not [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 13 [[/preprinted]] seem to think that that was any reason for staying home. I had been dubious about going in swimming as early that morning I developed what [[strikethrough]] seemed [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] felt [[/insertion]] like a muscular pain in my right leg. However, when the time came to go, I felt quite fit. We took the Western Main Road, which we had been on the day before, to Macqueripe Bay, on the north coast. In spite of the rain, quite a few people were there before us, but we had no difficulty in obtaining bath-houses (6d apiece). The bay itself is a narrow stretch of water protected partly on the north side by coral reef. The water is fairly [[strikethrough]] well [[/strikethrough]] warm & not at all invigorating. I never once went beyond my depth. When I got back to the bath-house I discovered a roll of sand and pebbles wedged between me and my bathing suit, but they were not troublesome and the suit was easily shaken out. After swimming we had tea, with which there was a delicious pound cake made by Mrs. Adamson's cook. We arrived home about 6. Mrs. Pike, who accompanied us, is a small little person weighing about a hundred pounds, with Dutch bob and
[[preprinted]] 14 [[/preprinted]] pretty blue eyes. I understood, from the conversation that she has two sons, altho' she hardly looks more than a child herself. There are numerous signs near the bath houses advertising hot-dogs at 12 cents apiece, altho' we didn't see any. [[double underlined]] Sunday, November 24, 1935 [[/underlined]] For some reason or other we got up late this morning. Dick seems to require a large amount of sleep these days, and some mornings I am not so persistent in my efforts to awaken him. The rest of the morning was spent writing a few letters and reading. I was somewhat surprized, and pleased to have Dick suggest that we go for a tram car ride. The first car we took was the one going up to St. Ann's. We got off at the end of the line and walked [[strikethrough]] up [[/strikethrough]] one or two blocks up a road called The Cascade. On one side of the road is a beautiful garden with some perfectly huge flamboyants as shade trees. (Poinsiana). It had the appearance of a well kept English manor house garden. We stopped for a while along the edge of a stream in which we saw numerous [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 15 [[/preprinted]] tadpoles and a few small fish. One of the most amusing events of the afternoon was the scene of a small boy laboriously trying to carry a fairly large white kid in his arms. The kid baahed and struggled furiously, causing the little fellow no end of trouble as the kid was almost as large as he. Finally he gained control of the situation by taking the kid in his arms, making it lie flat on its back, with its four feet sticking straight up in the air. The last we saw of the boy and the kid they were going up a narrow side trail and the kid was emitting a baa from time to time. We came to town & transfered to a Belmont car. This time we did not get off, as the car merely goes thru' a mediocre residence district. I have neglected to say that the carfare is thrupence (3d) or five tickets for a shilling. [[double underlined]] Monday, November 25, 1935 [[/underlined]] I finished up some of my letters in the morning. Went to town in the afternoon. I took a dress & jacket to the cleaners & they will charge me $1.50 to do the cleaning.
[[preprinted]] 16 [[/preprinted]] Ties are cleaned at 12 cents apiece. I also tried to find a copy of "Personal History." None of the bookshops in town had it, nor did they think they would be able to order it. I alo went to the Public Library to inquire about borrowing privileges and was told that I would have to make a deposit of $5.00 (which would be refunded) and pay 24 cents a month for the privilege of taking one book & one magazine at a time. These numerous errands involved a lot of walking and my feet were beginning to show the strain by the time I reached home. It is at times like these that afternoon tea is most welcome [[underlined]] Tuesday, November 26, 1935 [[/underlined]] Uneventful. Went to "the pictures" in the evening & saw William Powell in "Private Detective." [[double underlined]] Wednesday, November 27, 1935 [[/underlined]] This morning I became quite interested in the numerous birds resting in the trees near our west window. I have heard the kiskadees numerous times, but had [[strikethrough]] e [[/strikethrough]] never attention to the bird emitting that call. Upon seeing a fairly large, yellow-breasted bird [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 17 [[/preprinted]] I asked the house maid what it was, and I felt doubtful when she said it was a kiskadee. However, I later saw the same bird siting on a corner of the roof, and there was no mistaking its call. In the same tree are some slightly smaller powder-blue birds whose name I do not know. I am told that you will never find more than one family of kiskadees in a tree, as they drive one another away, yet they live very peaceably with other birds. About noon I saw 3 frigate birds flying by. I neglected to say that on Sunday we saw a large number of large-billed black birds. These same birds are quite common on the grass in front of the "Red House." I've seen them near, or with, small [[strikethrough]] flo [[/strikethrough]] broods of baby chicks and they do not seem to be vicious in the least. Pidgeons are quite numerous in the city. This evening about 6 or 6:30 we went to a cocktail party given by the Adamsons. The purpose of the affair was so that we could meet some of the people of the college and Port of Spain. Mr Algernon Wharton called for us. If possible, [[strikethrough]] we [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] I [[/insertion]] shall name all the people we met, and give a short
[[preprinted]] 18 [[/preprinted]] description of them and their remarks. This will serve to bring them to mind. [[double underlined]] Mr & Mrs Carmichael [[/underlined]] she is the lady we met the first time we were at the Adamsons. She works in the college library. He is employed by the government. They have lived many years in China where he was employed by one of the railways. She much prefers China to Trinidad. She claims that the people of China are not only more cosmopolitan, but that they are interested in things outside of their own immediate circle. (this is speaking of the foreigners) [[underlined]] Mr & Mrs Patterson [[/underlined]] - He appeared in a Tuxedo, and she in a lace dinner dress. She looks quite a bit younger than he, she also seems less "Rights" They left early as they were going to a dinner party. [[underlined]] Mr & Mrs Louis Wharton [[/underlined]] If Algernon is hard to talk to, Louis is ten times worse. Maybe that was because he felt he didnt know me. Of all the people there they look the most foreign, and yet speak with the broadest English accent. Mrs Wharton is very nice looking. She is tall, her hair is black, and her complexion nice, and she dresses becomingly. She [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 19 [[/preprinted]] was raised in England - I understand her father was a prominent Socialist - and has been few places besides there and Trinidad. As a result she has some queer ideas about the outside world. Such as thinking that they dont celebrate Christmas much in the U.S. Her belief was that we did all our celebrating at Thanksgiving. It gives me special delight to rub it in to those kinds of people so I replied, "On the contrary we celebrate Christmas more than any nation on earth, as we begin at Thanksgiving, and keep up the celebration until after New Years" - I guess that held her. Apart from some little things like that she was very nice to me, and invited us to come to their home some time in the [[strikethrough]] neal [[/strikethrough]] near future. [[underlined]] Mr.& Mrs. Pickles [[/underlined]] - She is Mrs. Pike's sister as well as the sister of Mr. Jardine. She is quite a bit taller than Mrs. Pike, and her hair is darker. They both have Dutch bobs. I had no conversation with her. Dick spoke to him, but I have no more than a hazy idea of what he is like. [[underlined]] Mr. & Mrs. Silow [[/underlined]] - Both seem quite young, and he was specially ill at ease when he first came in. She looks like Ruth Russell, and
[[preprinted]] 20 [[/preprinted]] speaks with a hurried slurring English accent. She was of the opinion that Woolworth's was a Yiddish firm, and strange to say had never heard of the Woolworth Building in New York - how the fame of our American institutions does travel. [[underlined]] Mr. & Mrs. Phillis [[/underlined]] - I can't place at all. [[underlined]] Mr. Bell [[/underlined]] - a student. [[underlined]] Mr. Johnson [[/underlined]] - a nice clean-faced type of young man, even tho' "just another Swede." [[underlined]] Dr. Wardlaw [[/underlined]] - is a Plant Pathologist. [[underlined]] Mr. Wright [[/underlined]] - Rather in interesting bachelor who will soon be the proud possessor of a Morris 18. We still do not know what that means. He told me it meant 18 cylinders, and Dick says he doubts it. [[underlined]] Mrs. Pike [[/underlined]] - I do not think Mr. Pike was there. I have described [[underlined]] her [[/underlined]] before. [[underlined]] Mr. Jardine [[/underlined]] - Brother of Mrs. Pike and Mrs. Pickles. He had not seen his sisters for over 15 years. He has been in China, and visited Hawaii. As a result he knows a great deal more about the latter than the former. Quite an argumentative young man when he has a few Martinis under his belt. He has been here a little over a week, and had not been in [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 21 [[/preprinted]] Hawaii long yet he was arguing with Mrs. Adamson about the cost of living in the two places. As she has lived in both and kept house she should know, but he puts me in mind of the type of man who thinks no one knows anything except himself. Mrs. Adamson says it is much higher here, but he said she was judging from American standards, but I can't see that that entered into it, as in both cases he would be doing the same. I do not know whether we were expected to go home with Mr. Wharton who brought us, but if so, we we did not do as expected. We stayed to a light supper with the Adamsons, and they later drove us home. [[double underlined]] Thursday, November 28, 1935 [[/underlined]] I woke up this morning with anything but a comfortable feeling in my insides. I also seemed to have a slight case of diahorrea (I never did know how to spell this word). I also seemed to have a loss of appetite, so the day was spent in bed lolling around, and by the time night came my bones and muscles were so tired that I felt I must be getting something pretty strong. Dick said that malaria always
[[preprinted]] 22 [[/preprinted]] starts with that tired feeling, but I wasn't much [[strikethrough]] disturbed [[/strikethrough]] perturbed. As this day was uneventful, I might as well fill up the space with several pieces of information which I have no other place to put. First of all - the matter of licenses. A dog license here costs as much as an automobile license in the U.S., and they pay $33 a year for automobile licenses. Gasoline has a tax of 20 cents per Imperial gallon. This makes gasoline as expensive here as in other places, even tho' some of the largest British refineries are located on this island. All autos carry two identifications. One a large tag like any U.S. license, and this is kept for the life of the car; the other a small enamel piece which is changed every year when the fee is paid. We do not use mosquito nets here in Port of Spain, as they say they do not have any mosquitoes to contend with. This is relatively true, and it is rather rare to see one in the house. They seem to have a pretty good method of control. However, the commonest kinds found here are the ones which carry yellow fever and malaria. The policemen here are just as dignified as the Jamaicans, and when a black man is [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 23 [[/preprinted]] dignified, he is very much so. One thing which has rather interested me - and which I wish I could know more about - is the conglomeration of races here in Trinidad - to say nothing of nationalities. As I see them on the street they are: [[underlined]] Chinese [[/underlined]] - Who run grocery stores, one fairly large paper shop, laundries, and photo studios. Many of the girls are very nice looking - and they dress with a great deal of taste and sense of fashion. [[underlined]] East Indies [[/underlined]] - I have seen men who were beggars, and men who looked like swamis, dressed in the same type of garment. The loose-fitting shirt and draped piece of cloth which forms a baggy trouser, topped with a turban. The men who run the shops are usually dressed as Europeans, altho' once in a while one can pick out a Muselman by his fez. The women of the poorer types wear the scarf draped over their heads, and many of them have nose buttons of gold and precious stones. [[underlined]] Portuguese Jews [[/underlined]] - I had been at a loss to place these people of Portuguese name and Jewish habits until the combination of terms was suggested to me. Such names as Da Costa, Le Lima, Salva-
[[preprinted]] 24 [[/preprinted]] tori, and numerous other of decided Portuguese origin are in many cases - not all - Jewish as well. Several very Jewish looking ladies, who got off with us at Trinidad, had Portuguese names. [[underlined]] Venezuelans [[/underlined]] - To be understood because of the proximity to that country. One also hears Spanish spoken on the street. [[underlined]] Other South Americans [[/underlined]] - Many showing quite a mixture of bloods in their make-up. To go back to the [[underlined]] Portuguese. [[/underlined]] In reading some of Kipling's works I notice that the British in other parts seem to have the Portuguese at their heels. Several apt expressions of his.....a Miss Castries - d'Castries it was originally, but the family dropped the d' for administrative [[strikethrough]] purposes [[/strikethrough]] reasons ...... possessed of what innocent people at Howe call a "Spanish" complexion ..... but for many reasons she was "impossible" ...... all good mammas know what "impossible" means ..... the little opal-tinted onyx at the base of her finger-nails said this as plainly as print .... Such I think as the case here. Not all their darkness of complexion is caused by the sun. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 25 [[/preprinted]] the other day some zealous and fanatic "ethiopians" - used in a general sense - mistook a Portuguese flag for an Italian one, and thinking it the latter they tore it down. Whereby earning prison sentences for themselves as rioters. I wonder what would have happened had the flag been Italian. Would their fellow blacks have risen to the rescue? [[underlined]] French creoles [[/underlined]] - These people, I understand, keep pretty much to themselves. They speak patois, and the more educated ones speak pure French. They are to be found in many minor executive positions in the government. [[underlined]] Negroes [[/underlined]] - By far in the majority. Many of them fairly well educated. As household servants they seem to be more sensible and efficient than the ones in Jamaica. I lack other means of comparison. [[double underlined]] Friday, November 29th, 1935. [[/underlined]]. The early part of the day was spent doing little or nothing. I did do a little writing to catch up on my Journal. That evening we went to dinner at the Adamson's. I wore my blue taffeta. After having tried several of my other
[[preprinted]] 26 [[/preprinted]] formal dresses, and discovering an amazing growth of girth, this dress seemed best to suit the purpose. We had rum punch before dinner - and this did things to my stomach so that I felt I'd better not finish it. The wine we had with dinner was delicious, as was our meal. After dinner we went to a Benefit Bridge at Sir Geoffrey & Lady Evans'. We played all evening with the Adamsons, and I found it quite enjoyable. Sir Geoffrey has been a Big Game Hunter at some period in his life, and he had a lovely tiger skin - shot in Bengal - to show for it. He had several horns and other trophies. He and Lady Evans seem quite nice - and not too formal. The Adamson's drove us home, altho' we had taken a taxi out. Fare was $1.00 and some odd (if Dick tipped him?). [[double underlined]] Saturday, November 30. [[/underlined]] As I look back over the days I seem to spend an awful lot of them doing nothing. If I let the Journal go several days, I can't even remember anything [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 27 [[/preprinted]] important happening. This is one such day. In Dick's Journal he mixed this day with Friday. [[double underlined]] Sunday, December 1st. [[/underlined]] Here it is the first of December, and yet it doesn't seem any more like 25 days from Christmas than - I don't know what. I spent part of the day writing Christmas cards. This year it is a picture of the Saintes, taken from Guadeloupe, with a small picture of Dick & me in the corner. Dick is rather "chaffing at bit" while waiting for the motor, but there is nothing much he can do about it. If he only knew for sure which ship it was on, it would simplify matters a great deal. As it is, most of the companies only seem to have a hazy idea of when their ships will be in. [[double underlined]] Monday, December 2nd. [[/underlined]] I started for town fairly early, but I got as far as the cleaners, and picked up my dress, than I decided that I had better bring it home before it got all wrinkled. They did a very nice job of it but the
[[preprinted]] 28 [[/preprinted]] price was high enough. $1.50 for the brown polka dot, with the jacket. A plain dress is $1.00. When I came home I decided I had time to shampoo my hair over again. I did it yesterday, but with the hard water etc. the soap would not get out no matter how much I rinsed it. I went to the drug store and bought some borax as well as a 24 cent bottle of cocoanut shampoo - and it certainly did wonders. I also rinsed in vinegar, much to the surprise of the ladies in the house. The water in the cold faucet was almost boiling - it felt that warm - and I had to get a pitcher of cold water to cool it before I could wash my hair in it. About noon it began to pour rain - and when it pours it does just that. This type of rain hard and clear up lasted until early evening. After dinner we went to see G-Men. We sat in the balcony (highest priced next to boxes) as we weren't sure that many white people sat downstairs. However, in the future we can save our 25 cents and sit downstairs, where most people sit. When I [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 29 [[/preprinted]] say most, I do not mean any great number. I doubt whether there were 100 people in the orchestra that night. The Pit - where most of the negroes go, is always fairly well crowded. The picture was fairly good, but the short subjects were pretty terrible. The ads of an East Indian picture "Bala Joban" were in a way interesting, because of the music and dancing, as well as amusing because of their crudeness. [[double underlined]] Tuesday, December 3rd. [[/underlined]] I went to town this morning, and I certainly did a lot of walking around. I bought some paper and I will have my name and address printed on it. Total cost $3.36 for 100 [[strikethrough]] 0 [[/strikethrough]] sheets of paper [[strikethrough]] printed [[/strikethrough]] and 300 envelopes printed, plus 200 sheets unprinted. Tried to buy some Christmas seals or stickers to put on our postcard Xmas cards, but no such thing available. I started to walk up Abercromby, and just as I got to the square it began to sprinkle. From there on I ran most of the way, and Dick met me with an umbrella a block from the house. He said it had poured out here. Naturally I arrived home pretty wet and that from running not rain.
[[preprinted]] 30 [[/preprinted]] The afternoon was spent enjoying the magazines which arrived in that mail - five Liberties & 2 Cosmopolitans. This evening it poured rain again, and there was quite a wind with it. [[underlined]] Wednesday, December 4 [[/underlined]] I spent most of the day writing and reading, and am not yet caught up on the letters I owe. Having discovered what I think is a cavity in one of my teeth I inquired around about dentists, and to-morrow I shall go see what can be done [[underlined]] Thursday, December 5 1935 [[/underlined]] Early this morning Dick & I started to town. I went to the dentist. My first intention was to take my pick of Drs. Johnson and Carrington, but as they shared the same office this was a little difficult. I took Johnson. He began by setting my mind at ease as to the cost, so I let him put in the temporary filling and I'm to go back Saturday for him to finish up. He is a graduate of the University of Pennsylvania. Considering it was such [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 31 [[/preprinted]] a large cavity I suppose I would have had to let someone fill it no matter what the cost. I hope that his remark about some teeth decaying rapidly in the tropics, isn't true, as we can't afford many extra expenses like that. After I had been to the dentist I met Dick at the Post office. We went around inquiring about the motor and to Furness Withy where there was some mail for us. We have had quite a bit of windy weather this past week. I dont know whether it is natural or not, but I dont like it. As Dick says, "I dont like my feathers ruffled." [[underlined]] Friday December 6 [[/underlined]] I spent the morning writing letters and straightening out Xmas card list. In the evening we went to a cocktail party at the Carmichaels. It was a very enjoyable party, and I met some people whom I had not met before. [[underlined]] Dr Rankine [[/underlined]] & his wife (I did not meet her). He is the Surgeon General - recently appointed - and he has spent a great
[[preprinted]] 32 [[/preprinted]] deal of time in Palestine. He is supposed to be quite an authority on bats. [[underlined]] Mr & Mrs Arner [[/underlined]] are a young American couple who are here with Pan American Airways. He is quite an animal collecting enthusiast, and he has a centipede, about 11 inches long, which he has kindly offered to donate to the Washington zoo. Dick immediately wrote Bill Mann an air mail letter to find out if he wants it. I did not get to talk to Mrs Arner very much and I should like to know her better. It is good to see some Americans once again. After the party the Adamsons asked us to drive in to Port of Spain with them and go to a show, but we didnt feel much in the mood for shows, so we only accepted the ride. [[underlined]] Saturday December 7, 1935 [[/underlined]] I went to the dentist this morning to get my tooth filled. While there he found another cavity so he filled both the teeth at the same time. He seems to be a very careful dentist, altho' he gave me a bad moment or two. The cavity was so large that there was a great deal of the sensitive part exposed. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 33 [[/preprinted]] After that I went to town and did a little buying - a box of Roger and Gallet soap, 3 cakes for 45 cents. Dick was busy most of the afternoon working on glossary cards. He went to the library early this afternoon. [[underlined]] Sunday, December 8, 1935 [[/underlined]] I wasnt feeling so very "chipper" to-day, so I spent most of the time reading and sleeping. The people in the room next to us are a nasty pair. The other day Dick and I were having a little talk about Zoologists and the like, and I guess our conversation was overheard - you dont have to talk very loudly, in these buildings with 1/2 lattice partitions, for that to happen - as the next morning very early "Mr Muskrat" was making some very sluring remarks about "Dr. Darwin and his wife, next door". She has the most awful voice I've heard in a long time, and they are constantly complaining. The servants dislike them too. Their crudities take so many different forms that it is hard to enumerate them.
[[preprinted]] 34 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] Monday, December 9, 1935 [[/underlined]] I spent the entire morning writing letters to the various post masters in the B.W.I's asking them to send me some Jubilee issues. Dick will then take the letters down & get money orders for them. I will send about 3 shillings to each place. Dick was out at St. Augustine so I had the entire use of the typewriter without depriving him of it. [[underlined]] Tuesday, December 10, 1935 [[/underlined]] I didn't feel very well again today. Guess I did too much yesterday. Anyway, I felt like sleeping & reading, so I did both. Dick is still trying to find out about his motor. At least he knows now what ship it is coming on. [[underlined]] Wednesday December 11, 1935 [[/underlined]] This morning I went to the dentist to have him polish over the fillings, and to pay him what I owe. His bill was $5.00 - a pleasant surprize. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 35 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] December 12, 1935 [[/underlined]] I have started an article on West Indian cookery. It takes time to do things like that, as I'm not an old hand at it. Miss Huggins has very kindly loaned me 2 cook books, one on British Guiana and the other on Trinidad. They both contain other West Indian cookery. The Trinidad one contains her recipe for mango chutney - that perfectly swell stuff, which gives one a terrible breath after eating it. It seems to be far worse than onions or even plain garlic, but the eating is worth it to me, if Dick can stand to have me around him after I have so indulged myself. This afternoon after tea the maid brought in a Persian kitty for us to see. It belongs to Mrs. Listan the young lady in the house next to ours. The kitten didn't act a bit friendly at first, and just walked under the bed. Dick then picked it up by the nape of the neck, and put it on the bed, and the cat immediately began to play with him. It was either the picking up in that manner, or the being put on the bed, which she liked.
[[preprinted]] 36 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] Friday December 13 1935 [[/underlined]] This might very well be Friday 13th but nothing very exciting happened. Sleeping, eating & writing - all I did. [[underlined]] Saturday, December 14, 1935 [[/underlined]] In the morning Dick and I went to town. It takes the cleaners a week to clean the clothes, so I took them in to-day. Went to Cannings & bought a jar of Heinz pickles (40¢) and a can of ripe olives (24¢). We also went shopping for some socks for Dick, and were told that they didn't carry such large sizes here, as they had no call for them. This evening we had the Adamsons to dinner. We had a private table on the veranda, and everything was fixed very nicely. Our menu consisted of tomato soup, fried fish (as Dick likes it) chicken, ochra, potatoes fixed several ways, cho-cho and ice cream. Our pickles and olives made the dinner quite complete. After dinner, we went to the movies and saw Kay Francis in "False Madonna". I didn't enjoy it nearly as much as I usually enjoy her pictures. After the show we went to the [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 37 [[/preprinted]] Country Club for a few dances. A number of people from the "Merissa" were there - among the bunch was the Cruise Conductor and the Purser. The Country Club is nice - just sufficiently elegant for a place like that. The ballroom is open on 2 sides, and a great number of insects come flying to the lights. Of course a large cricket had to land on me. I flicked him off my shoulder with as much nonchalance as possible - a great deal more than I would have had a year ago! When I said that I wished there were some way of getting rid of such things, a bat flew in and began swooping up & down the ballroom catching insects! We got home & to bed about 2 a.m. [[double underline]] Sunday, December 15, 1935 [[/double underline]] Dr Pound invited Dick to go on a trip to-day. I had thought, at first, that it was to be an outing for men only, but when I discovered that Dick & Dr Pound were the only ones going I decided to go with them. It was such a lovely day that I didnt want to stay home. Mr Pound has a V-8 Ford roadster which is very comfortable.
[[preprinted]] 38 [[/preprinted]] Our trip was out along the Eastern Main road thru Toco, to the end of the road at Sans Souci. Here I discovered some fungus for Dick, which he worked - I did too - and got a number of staphs. We passed thru several rain forest areas. I didn't always get out of the car when the men did. On the way home we stopped at Balandra Bay where Mr Pound & I went swimming. The water was fine, and the beach is a nice long wide one. As we were leaving we met Mrs Patterson and her children. It rained most of the way home. The entire trip was about 150 miles, but we were pretty tired when we got home. [[underlined]] Monday, December 16, 1935 [[/underlined]] Didnt do much all day except write some more on my article for Woman's Home Companion. It is getting in pretty good shape now. In the evening we went to the movies & saw "Upper World", with Warren William & Ginger Rogers. The picture was good, but I'm sure it was cut. [[underlined]] Tuesday, December 17, 1935 [[/underlined]] At 9 o'clock Mrs Adamson came [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 39 [[/preprinted]] by for me and we drove out to Chagnaramas Bay where we were met by Mrs Wharton, Mrs Wall, and two girls who live across the street from Mrs Wharton. We went over to Mrs Wharton's place on Gasparee - an island of the Bocas del Dragon - in the prison launch. Mrs Wall is wife of the Governor of the Prison - I imagine this title in analogous to our "Warden". The Prison island is also one of the islands of the Bocas and only long term prisoners go there. The man who ran the prison launch is a lifer with 3 killings to his credit (he seems to have run amuck one night) and the other two prisoners were long termers. There was a guard with us but he was armed with nothing I could see, except a riding whip. Mrs Wall says that all the prisoners are very good to the children, and really spoil them - especially the little boy. The Wharton cottage is situated on the first cove on the opposite side of the island from shore. Many of the large steamers pass right by the cove. That day we saw "The Flandre" of the French line, and the "Cordillera" as well as some freighters. The cove is delightful for swimming.
[[preprinted]] 40 [[/preprinted]] and it was all the Mothers could do to keep the children from being in the water all day long. It was a most delightful day. [[underlined]] Wednesday, December 18, 1935 [[/underlined]] Dick and Dr Pound were gone for the day. I spent the morning typing and writing a letter. About 4 o'clock the Consulate phoned to say there was mail for us there. I went down at once to get it. When I came home Dick & Mr. Pound were there, and they were waiting tea for me. They brought me a nutmeg - the first I've ever seen. [[underlined]] Thursday, December 19, 1935 [[/underlined]] Dick went out again, and I didn't expect him home until late. However, he was home in time for tea, as it was rainy out, and not good for collecting. In the evening we went to see "I am a Thief". So far every picture we've seen has been at the Globe. [[underlined]] Friday, December 20, 1935 [[/underlined]] Went to town in the morning to get some letters in the mail. Also to order and buy some things in preparation to our [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 41 [[/preprinted]] leaving. The money sure goes. When I got home Dick & I went over our accounts & discovered that we've spent $200 since we've been here. I slept most of the afternoon and when I woke up I wrote a few letters. [[underlined]] Saturday December 21, 1935 [[/underlined]] This morning I wrote in my journal and straightened out some of my papers. Dick went to town and when he returned we came to the decision that we would stay here until January 7th. We read in the newspaper about the plane mishap last night. The plane nosed over in landing at Corcainte. It was the first accident in more than seven years of flying in this area. No one was killed altho' several were badly injured. We didn't do much that afternoon or evening. I had the pain in my side again. [[underlined]] Sunday, December 22, 1935 [[/underlined]] This morning Mrs Adamson & Alper came by to take us on a picnic.
[[preprinted]] 42 [[/preprinted]] Mr Adamson couldnt go. At the last minute he discovered that some of his wasps were ready for liberating, and he had been unable to find a suitable place to do this We drove up the road by the Tacarigua River (so it is called on the map). Mrs Adamson calls it the Caura river, but I find that to be the name of the town at the headwaters. We parked the car and walked down to the river where there was a lovely little pool - just right for bathing. Mr & Mrs Phillis were there ahead of us. They have a cute little dog named Judy whom Kim seemed to delight in picking on. Dick did his best to give me a swimming lesson, but I wasnt such an apt pupil. Anyway, I do enjoy swimming my own side stroke, and the fun is in being in the water. Mrs Adamson had brought a lunch, and the Phillises joined us. The cocoanut cake was excellent. About 3 we went back to the college & had tea at the Adamsons. Then we went to the lab to pick up Mr A. This time our drive was up along the Arima river. I believe they say this road is the highest in the [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 43 [[/preprinted]] island. When we got to the summit we got out and walked. On the way home we picked up the bamboo Christmas tree which had been cut for Alper. We were also subjected to a nice downpour of rain. Dick & Alper were sitting in the rumble and when we got back to the Adamsons Dick didnt exactly act as if he had enjoyed the ride. We arrived home a little late for dinner. [[underlined]] Monday, December 23, 1935 [[/underlined]] I went to town this morning and finished up my Christmas shopping. Bought Dick two ties - one blue, the other a mixture. I liked the dark blue one very well, but I feel I could have gotten a lighter color, which would have been better. I also bought him two books - "The Door with the 7 Locks" by Edgar Wallace, and "Ex-Detective" by Oppenheim. I tried all over town to get the paper weights - and failed. There was quite a [[strikethrough]] l [[/strikethrough]] mob of people in town so I will make this my last day of Christmas shopping. It rained most of the afternoon. Dick gave me one of my Xmas presents - a
[[preprinted]] 44 [[/preprinted]] sheet of stamps -- and we began working on them. In the evening, a bunch of young people, dressed in old fashioned monks costumes, came by & sang Xmas carols. They carried old fashioned lighted lamps, and the whole effect was most pleasing. The first real feeling of Christmas I've had. [[underline]] Tuesday, December 24, 1935 [[/underline]] Dick went to see Jemmat this morning and came home with a Christmas present of 5,000 unsorted stamps. We spent most of the afternoon "playing" with them. [[underlined]] Wednesday, December 25, 1935 [[/underline]] Christmas Day. Dick gave me another gift of 6 coffee spoons which I had admired. They are nickel plate, with a little blue nob at the top of the handle. We had a fairly good Christmas dinner consisting of ham, and turkey, mostly the former. The "Christmas pudding" was excellent. Most of the day was spent doing stamps. It is a lot of fun, but I do get a little tired now and then. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 45 [[/preprinted]] It wasnt at all like last Christmas, but very much nicer in some ways. This time Dick could be with me. If I could have my family and Dick all together at Christmas, the day couldn't be nicer. Let us hope we wont have to wait too long for that! [[underline]] December 26, 1935 [[/underline]] Last year at this time I had left my happy home in Berkeley. This year I spend it in Trinidad and help celebrate [[the following is a type-written page pasted on the diary page and covering a portion of the handwriting]] Boxing-Day is a system of Christmas-boxes, or the bestowing of certain expected gratuities at the christmas season. Journeymen, apprentices of trades-people were wont to levy regular contributions from their masters' customers, who, in addition, were mulcted by the trades-people in the form of augmented charges in the bills, to recompence the latter for gratuities expected from them by the customers' servants. This most objectionable practice is almost extinct, but not entirely. Christmas-boxes are still regularly expected by the postman, the lamplighter, the dustman, and generally all those functionaries who render services to the public at large, without receiving payment therefor from any particular individual. There is also a very general custom at the Christmas season of the masters presenting their clerks, apprentices, and other "employes" with little gifts, either in money or kind. St. Stephen's Day, the 26th of December, being the customary day on which those guerdons known as Christmas-boxes are solicited and collected, is known as Boxing-Day. [[/pasted in page]]
[[preprinted]] 44 [[/preprinted]] sheet of stamps -- and we began working on them. In the evening a bunch of young people, dressed in old fashioned monks costumes, came by & sang Xmas carols. They carried old fashioned lighted lamps, and the whole effect was most pleasing. The first real feeling of Christmas I've had. [[underline]] Tuesday, December 24, 1935 [[/underline]] Dick went to see Jemmat this morning and came home with a Christmas [[remainder of page covered with an attached, blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 45 [[/preprinted]] It wasnt at all like last Christmas, but very much nicer in some ways. This time Dick could be with me. If I could have my family and Dick all together at Christmas, the day couldn't be nicer. Let us hope we wont have to wait too long for that! [[underline]] December 26, 1935 [[/underline]] Last year at this time I had left my happy home in Berkeley. This year I spend it in Trinidad and help celebrate Boxing Day. I have asked any number of people why this day is called Boxing Day and no one seems to know. It is another of these English customs which are customary & proper but which no one knows the why or where for. I am told that Mr Digby can perhaps tell me. They always have an afternoon of horse racing, and the day is quite a holiday. One gentleman here in the house -- Mr Scott, an American -- won $60, but as the betting is pari-mutual I dont suppose the management lost much.
[[preprinted]] 46 [[/preprinted]] I have been reading Seabrook's "Magic Island" and he writes some things which I should like to record. The Voodoo drum is called a Rada drum ..... Voodoo is primarily and basically a form of worship, and its magic, its sorcery; its witchcraft is only secondary collateral ...... Voodoo Gods - Papa Legba, guardian of the gates & most benevolent, Damballa Oueddo wisest & most powerful whose symbol is the serpent; Loco, [[strikethrough]] gua [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] god [[/insertion]] of the forests; Agoué god of the sea; Maîtress Ezilée, who was the mild Blessed Virgin Mary .............. houmfort (mystery house)..... Seabrook was in Haiti in the time of Borno ..... the use of the crucifix on Voodoo altar is reverenced as one god among many ..... Rada also the dance after Voodoo rites .... Congo dance, the usual type which everyone can see ...... Ouanga charms are charms of all sorts ...... he says [[underlined]] danghi [[/underlined]] fever ..... le culte des morts use corpses for magical purposes ....... the "corpses" are probably people who are drugged into trances ...... he spells Congo dancing BAMBOCHE ........ Zombie, a purely local Haitian ghost(?)....... it is a soulless human corpse, taken from the grave and [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 47 [[/preprinted]] endowed by sorcery with a mechanical semblance of life ......... 1921 Sudre Dartiguenave was President ....... Celestine, daughter of President Antoine-Simone, was a dabbler in black sorcery ..... case of the goat in the coffin for which Antoine-Simone was almost excommunicated ........ he fled in 1911 to Jamaica ..... Hotel Montagne ...... Mme Shea proprietress ...... griffe, brownskinned, midway between black & mulato ........ to be anti American was to be anti-Borno ..... Lieutenant Faustin E. Wirkus, White King of La Gonave ...... Barker, Barnes, and Hayne Boyden are mentioned in the chapter "No white man could be as dumb as that" ........ Dr W.W. Cumberland Finance adviser said the above ......... Barnes & I in the ditch - ask Mr Barnes ....... 1914 Davilmar Theodore made himself president ........ In less than 3 months his General Guillaume Sam was President (March 1915) ...... Sam was disliked by intellectuals & he imprisoned many for his own safety ...... due to a mistaken order many were killed .... Sam escaped immediate death
[[preprinted]] 48 [[/preprinted]] at the hands of the mob, by escaping to the French Legation. He was later thrown over the wall to a howling populace who actually tore him to shreds ....... As a result, the U.S. intervened in 1915 ....... 1912 Le Conte, & most of his body guard were blown up with the Palace ...... I wonder who Ash Pay Davis is. [[underline]] Friday, December 27 1935 [[/underline]] Didn't do much in morning. In the afternoon went down to P.O. and bought some remainders of Jubilee stamps. Found some 6 cent ones in a small shop. Also bought some pickles and priced face powder. I found that I pay by patronizing Scotts. The Yardley's powder I paid 60 cents for there, is 48¢ in grocery stores. It rained most of the afternoon. That evening we went to the Empire for the first time. Saw "Lives of a Bengal Lancer". I liked it. [[underline]] Saturday, December 28, 1935 [[/underline]] Lots of wind to-day. I had a cold coming on. To-day Dick finally told me that he had had a bad spill Thursday before last. No wonder he was so tired [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 49 [[/preprinted]] and sore last week! Maybe it is best I didnt know, as I would probably have worried around a lot about him. We worked on stamps a good part of the afternoon. I believe Dick went out to river Estate this morning. [[underline]] Sunday, December 29, 1935 [[/underline]] Another rainy and very windy day - which I dislike. We were going thru the Institute but discovered it was closed. I spent a good part of the day writing letter. In the late afternoon, after tea, I worked on stamps. I made some new & improved holders. This evening I had the sniffles again. I went to bed & started the book by Wallace "The Door with the 7 Locks". [[underline]] Monday, December 30, 1935 [[/underline]] Wrote in my Journal most of the morning. Dick went to town doing some errands in preparation to going to Tobago. In the afternoon we went to see the Museum at the Victoria Institute. We went after hours as Prof. Urich was acting as our Guide. The Museum
[[preprinted]] 50 [[/preprinted]] was burned in 1920 and rebuilt in 1922, so this Museum which we saw was the result of collection during the last 10 or 15 years. It wasn't bad at all. Of course Urich is only interested in the zoological things so we were given a good taste of that. I got a fleeting glimpse of the few historical things - there didnt seem to be many. Some of the pictures of former governors were good. I specially liked the one of McGreggor - in Scot's costume - They are now getting together the bat collection and I think it will be quite good when it is finished. The bats I've seen flying around seem so much bigger than the ones in the display, but that was probably my imagination working Prof Urich invited us down to see the live bats in cages, at the lab. The collection of birds eggs seemed to be of special interest to Urich, but the mounted birds were not. We worked a little on stamps in the evening, but I was pretty sleepy so I went to bed early. [[underlined]] Tuesday, December 31, 1935 [[/underlined]] Here it is the last day of this year. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 51 [[/preprinted]] Dick got up early and went out with Pound. I was told yesterday that Boxing day is the day when people put all their Christmas presents back in the boxes (it hardly seems that this can be the only reason for the name) This morning as I was sitting writing I couldn't help but hear the conversations in the next room. I am amazed at the ignorance of some people about matters of common knowledge. Even such popular newspaper copy as the Dionne quintuplets received their unjust due. The conversationalists seemed undecided whether the quints lived in Canada or Illinois. Ismay wont be with us after to-day. She claims Miss Huggins objected to her bringing me my hot water last evening - I dont exactly believe this - but for some reason or other she was "sacked". As she has been pretty good and conscientious I'll give her a little tip before she leaves. I just now happened to think of an interesting discovery I made in the Museum
[[preprinted]] 52 [[/preprinted]] yesterday. The little fish, which have been so popular as household pets - Guppys - are not so called because they are silly little fish, but because their discoverer was a man with the unprosaic name of Guppy. His son - whom I believe is in the British Museum - is a painter of fish and has painted a number of tropical fish for the Institute Museum. This afternoon was spent reading. It wasn't such a pleasant afternoon anyway. Dick didnt come home for tea and I was hopefully afraid he wouldn't have time to get ready to go to Tobago. However, he arrived a little before five and went right down & made reservations for going. After having him around so much of the day, I get a little lonesome the first day he is out for the whole day. If this hadn't been the last chance for his going I would have tried to pursuade him to stay home. There wasn't much revelry here considering it was New Year's eve - or old year's night as they seem to call it here - but at 5 this morning a caliope went thru' the streets playing a tune [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 53 [[/preprinted]] which sounded like a simplified version of "Las Mananitas". I had a rather restless night but that was to be expected with Dick away. 1936 [[double underlined]] Wednesday, January 1 [[/underlined]] I began the day right. It was a nice bright sunny day, so I woke up feeling on top of the world. After breakfast I decided to go to the Botanical Gardens. At 9 I left the house, took the St Claire car, and in a short time arrived at the gardens. On the way, I passed the race track where they were making ready for the races this afternoon. There were a great many stalls up, and many articles strewn on the ground. Practically all of the business was being carried on by the East Indians. The women were dressed in bright holiday attire, and they were loaded with bracelets and other jewelry. Before I got to the Gardens I had
[[preprinted]] 54 [[/preprinted]] firmly decided that I shouldn't need any guide. However, as I was walking around, one of the gardeners came up and asked me if I should like to see the orchids. I should have realized that this was a leader. Before we got to the orchids he had shown me a number of other things. He picked up, and crushed so I could smell them, leaves from the following trees - bay, cinnamon, cloves, and camphor. He also gave me a piece of rubber from a rubber tree. He picked the following flowers for me - coralitas, chinaman's hat, mexican oyster, Napoleon's button, coffee, a small orchid like flower, and Indian laburnum (Cassia fistula). I discovered that the flamboyant & poinciana are the same tree - one name popular the other botanical (Poinciana regia). The gardener showed me the difference between the cabbage palm and the royal palm - the cabbage has 4 leaves on each side of the stalk, while the royal has just 2. The orchids were hardly worth the bother. The pink lily which looks like a single Cala lily is called anthurium lily. Other trees which I saw were logwood, cyprus (not in very good condition, banyan, eucaly- [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 55 [[/preprinted]] ptus, ebony, teak, mora, silk cotton, brazil nut, beetle nut, nutmeg, the spice trees mentioned above, monkey puzzler, many kinds of mahogany, acacia, cannon ball tree (Couroupita guianensis), Amherstia nobilis (sc. [[insertion]] Burma [[/insertion]] name), and many kinds of mangoes. One little plant interested me. It is a fernlike thing which grows in the grass. The leaf looks like this [[image - ink pen drawing of a straight, upright stem with two rows of leaves extending from top to bottom, much like a fern]]. These leaves are very sensitive to touch and when merely grazed, the sides close up along the mid-rib, and remain so for a long while. There are a great many palm trees, may of them native, but they have introductions such as the oil palm of West Africa, date palms & other species of (Phoenix) and the vegetable ivory palm (Phytelephas macrocarpa) - [[strikethrough]] of [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] from [[/insertion]] which so much of our ivory jewelry comes. I saw for the first time a yellow poinsettia and a pink bougainvillea. There are more kinds of hibiscus than I can mention and they are very effective as a single clump or as a hedge. At the end of our tour I felt obliged
[[preprinted]] 56 [[/preprinted]] to give the gardener a tip, so I gave him 9d, to which he said, "We usually gets more". - And I replied "I'm sorry but I only have 2d left", so he departed with good grace. As I went out the gate I looked at the bulletin board and discovered that one should pay a guide 60 cents an hour, and we had certainly been gone longer than that. On the other hand he had advertised himself as a gardener, not as a guide. On my way to the street car an old lady - negress - who had just gotten off the car greeted me with, "Happy New Year Miss, May the Saints love and protect you. May God bless you - would you give me 2d"? I answered that I had no money, and she bowed and went away. The afternoon was spent reading and writing. Dick will be glad he wasnt here to-night. We had a New Year's party - which was promised us instead of a big Christmas dinner. The dinner was excellent but the wine was raw. It didnt even compare with the everyday [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 57 [[/preprinted]] white wine at Hotel des Antilles. I dressed for dinner, as Miss Huggins wouldn't think I was appreciating her party unless I did. We had cocktails, on the front veranda. It was here that I met Mrs Garraway & Miss Garraway (both from Grenada) - sisters-in-law. They seem to be friendly with Henry "Beefy" (the crudest man in town). That's nothing [[underlined]] much [[/underlined]] against them, as they seem nice enough. The dinner tables were arranged in a U shape and there was little I missed as my seat was at the top of the "U". Mrs Scott sat next to me, and this was the first time since she has been here that we have exchanged conversation. The Garraways sat across from me. "Beefy was up to his usual tricks of staring. He cant seem to understand that he is not irresistable - even to a married woman. He is the type who [[underlined]] would [[/underlined]] make passes at girls who wear glasses. After a few courses he even got friendly enough to bring a cap over for me to wear - saying that well worn phrase of Mohammed and the mountain.
[[preprinted]] 58 [[/preprinted]] When I left they were singing and playing around with the mistletoe. It is always a good idea to leave at this time. Mr Digby is most interesting - I should like to know him well. [[underlined]] Thursday, January 2, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick came home this morning. He got here just before I got out of bed. He had had a nice trip to Tobago and he came home with quite distinguished company (ref. Journal) Naturally I was glad to see him. As he was tired he took the day off and we did a little more work on the stamps. In the evening we went to the show and saw "The Dragon Murder Case". Fairly good. When we came home I felt it was rather silly to wait until to-morrow before giving Dick the two little paper weights I had bought for our anniversary - so I gave them to him. They were well received [[underlined]] Friday, January 3rd 1936 [[/underlined]] A year ago to-day. They say, "the first year is the hardest and if this is so I'm going to have a remarkable time all the rest of my life. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 59 [[/preprinted]] Dick & I worked on stamps and at tea time Dick went and bought some ice cream for us - to help celebrate. We went to bed fairly early as he is going out to-morrow. [[underlined]] Saturday January 4 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick went out with Urich this morning. I went to the bank to see if our money had arrived - it hadn't. On the way home I was overtaken by "Beefy" Price. To my surprise I was informed that ^[[insertion]] he was well aware that [[/insertion]] my husband had forbidden my speaking to him. I can just picture Dick in such a role! However, he means no harm in being nice to me. There was little or nothing to say to this, so we went merrily (?) on our way home. One time I could gladly have said something nasty when he rushed me across the street in front of a car. At least I showed very plainly that I didn't like it, by shaking off his arm. That is one thing that even Dick cannot do with success. When I got home Miss Huggins invited me to go with her on the steamer which goes up to the Bocas. I was very
[[preprinted]] 60 [[/preprinted]] glad to have the invitation as I've always wanted to go up the islands of the Dragon's Mouths. When we got ready to go Mrs Garraway [[strikethrough]] also [[/strikethrough]] decided to go with us, which was nice as it made our party a little bigger. Beefy just about horned in, but Mrs Garraway reminded him that he should go to work. To which he responded, "discretion is the better part of valor" (with a meaningful look in my direction). Our boat left from the lighthouse jetty at 2 p.m. The boat is like a large steam launch, only that it is long and narrow. The upper deck is fixed with canvass deck chairs - and it is clean & comfortable. The fare is $1.10 round trip to [[strikethrough]] Chacachahee [[/strikethrough]] Chacachacaree - with 6d for taxi each way makes $1.35. Our first stop was at the five islands. We go along by the islands and row boats come out to meet us. These islands, and the houses on them, belong to the government, & one can rent them by the month or week end. The names of these Islands are Caledonia Craig, Lenegan, Nelson and Pelican. Nelson used to [[strikethrough]] le [[/strikethrough]] be the immigration island, but there is no need for such a thing now. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 61 [[/preprinted]] Our next stop was the prison island of Carrera, where two nuns got off to go and visit the prisoners. The island of Cronstadt is near it and this island is the health resort of the Trinidad Constabulary. At present there seems to be little there except a quarry. These two islands of Carrera & Cronstadt are sometimes called Diego Islands. To go back to Carrera - the nuns were met by a large 6 oared row boat - rowed by [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] prisoners - which makes excellent time. The island looks tidy & well kept. The prisoners seem to have an easier time than some of the people in town. From Diego Islands we go into Chaguaramas Bay. On the right, near the mainland, in fact joined to it by a sandy swamp is the uninhabited island promontory of Gasparillo. On the left is Gasparee or Gaspar Grande. We go along the north coast of this island where there are innumerable week-end cottages, and many pleasant coves for sea bathing. Here too, row boats come out to meet the steamer. At the most westerly point of the island is the Pointe Balleine Hotel which was once a flourishing
[[preprinted]] 62 [[/preprinted]] place, but which, for some reason or other, no one has been able to make pay. There used to be launches from Staubles jetty, but there is no regular service now. As yet the hotel appears quite neat & tidy. From Gasparee we crossed back to Trinidad, where we stopped at Stauble's Bay which is somewhat of a resort, and Tetron Bay which is directly opposite the island of Monas. The Boca de Monas is a quiet passage and there seems as if there is little tide going in or out. It is almost completely shut by reefs, but smaller ships do go through. One of the large Canadian ships attempted it once, but went aground on the reef. Monas has a nice bay facing Tetron bay. Of all the islands this has the most stopping places. The ones I specially remembered are Balmoral, Grand Fond & South Sea. The Boca de Huevos is quite a bit rougher and one can feel the ocean swell a great deal more. When we reached here there were two large[[strikethrough]] r [[/strikethrough]] ships nearby. Our captain allowed them both to pass him before he went ahead. At this time I was told about a serious accident which once happened there, because the captain of the island steamer could not read or send messages and his boat [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 63 [[/preprinted]] was rammed & sunk by a large ship coming in the Bocas. From Huevos we went to [[strikethrough]] Chacha [[/strikethrough]] Chacachacaree, where the leper settlement is located. Shortl[[strikethrough]] e [[/strikethrough]]y before we reached here we met the Dr of the leper island. He looks enough like Johnny Fairchild to be an elder brother. He told us a little about curing the lepers. In the early stages it is curable, but the trouble is that people let themselves go so long that it is almost impossible to arrest the cases. They do not believe that leprosy is easily caught - in fact direct contact seems to be the only means of contagion. He does not seem to fear infection for himself or family as they live on the island, and their house is only slightly removed from the main settlement. The leper settlement is made up of houses of family size & larger wards for individual cases. They seem nice, and not at all depressing looking. The trip this far took us 3 hours. From here the boat returns to Port of Spain in a little over 2 hours. The afternoon was delightfully sunny and not at all hot. In fact
[[preprinted]] 64 [[/preprinted]] after sun set it became cool enough for our coats. We arrived home well pleased with our expedition. That evening I went to bed early as I was tired. Dick read to me [[underlined]] Sunday, January 5, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick went out in the morning but was back for lunch. I wasn't feeling so chipper so I didn't get up for [[strikethrough]] f [[/strikethrough]] breakfast. I spent a lazy day reading & sleeping. Dick did some typing. [[underlined]] Monday, January 6, 1936 [[/underlined]] At last we got word that our money arrived. Dick got his motor ready and put it aboard. I did some packing. We got some long overdue mail from the consul. It took over a month to get here. I went to town & got a few things to give as gifts when we get home - 2 pins and several handkerchiefs, as well as some hand made step-ins. I also bought myself a butterfly wing ring - I've always wanted one. When I got home we began packing in earnest. Dick packed the 2 large drawers of the trunk. When he [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 65 [[/preprinted]] does so much there is really very little left for me to do. We also spent the evening packing. Before I finish Trinidad I must mention several interesting things. Charlotte street is one of the quaintest places to shop ..... almost like an oriental bazaar. A nice place to have ones hair done is the Waverly Salon (Mrs Slack) on Frederick Street. Mrs Wall - a fit person for an interesting novel. The Adamsons have been married 3 years. Alper was 4 when Mrs Adamson divorced her first husband. [[underlined]] Tuesday, January 7, 1936 [[/underlined]] This morning we finished packing and Dick did some errands. The trunk had to go before noon. We had late lunch as Dick had a lot of things to do. He went out to St Augustine to say goodbye to the Adamsons. I phoned in the afternoon to do same. We had an early tea and went down to the Lighthouse jetty to get the launch. There were so many people going aboard that they had to have several launches. Dick and I did not have the same
[[preprinted]] 66 [[/preprinted]] cabin as the boat was too crowded. My room mate was a girl from Bermuda named Bernice Cooper. Across the hall in 49 (I was in 47) was Mr & Mrs Muskrat. Fancy meeting [[underlined]] them [[/underlined]]) Mr Price was also aboard but as far as he was concerned I never saw him, in spite of his arm waving & staring. We had dinner and breakfast aboard, and I do not think their meals can compare with those on the "Nerissa". The Garraways were also aboard. They had 3 in their cabin - I shouldnt have liked that! The cabins are about twice as large as the ones on the "Nerissa", and much more luxurious, but I'd rather be on the Furness Line. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 67 [[/preprinted]] [[triple underlined]] Grenada [[/underlined]] [[underlined]] Wednesday January 8th 1936 [[/underlined]] We had to be up at seven to see the officials, then we had to wait until 7:30 for breakfast. We were met by the Home Hotel's man, Cromwell, a note left in the Purser's office, and later by Mr Jackson himself. He seems very enterprising and anxious for our trade. The St James didnt even have a man aboard. We took the 8:30 launch. There was a lot of fooling around with the launch going back & forth to the ship & the passengers got pretty disgusted. As soon as we got ashore we went to the customs - did't have to open a thing - and walked up the block to the Home Hotel. We were shown a nice large front room and after a little discussion we decided to take it at $45. a month - or proportional part - a piece. We didnt even bother to look at the St. James. Then we went for mail and found a lot waiting for us. Our journal note-books had arrived, 4 of the 6
[[preprinted]] 68 [[/preprinted]] Jubilee letters expected had arrived, then there were Christmas cards & letters from our families. It is always nice to get mail. Dick went out almost immediately, and except for lunch was gone almost all day. He was busy arranging for licenses, the motor unpacking etc. [[underline] Thursday, January 9, 1936 [[/underlined]] Spent most of the morning getting really settled. I always feel more at home after I've unpacked a few things. Dick & I spent a little time doing stamps It is nice to have our radio again. The first program we heard was Al Pearce. Station WLW comes in better, at night than some of the short wave stations. [[underlined]] Friday, January 10, 1936 [[/underlined]] I didn't do much in morning. In the afternoon I went for a short walk along the Esplanade and down the main shopping streets. I stopped in a shop to buy some thread and Listerine, and was amazed to be addressed by name. I understand that [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 69 [[/preprinted]] it is not at all unusual, in a town as small as this, for people to know of the arrival of any new whites. I even had a beggar call me mistress Blackwelder but I didn't give him anything for the honor. I went to the library last, and was very impressed with the tidyness of the place as well as with the good [[strikethrough]] a [[/strikethrough]] assortment of books. I had quite a talk with the assistant Librarian, Miss Louise Harbin. She seems a very intelligent person. I borrowed "The Curate's Wife" by E.H. Young. The membership fee is 5 s and one pays 1s6d a quarter subscription. To-day I heard about the recent trouble in St. Vincent. It seems they had quite a riot there one Thursday afternoon last month. Increased taxes and inefficiency were the underlying causes. There was a great deal of stone throwing and several people were shot by the police. It is surprising that no whites were killed, altho' a number were injured, and pretty well frightened. The Governor has forbidden people to talk or write about
[[preprinted]] 70 [[/preprinted]] the matter - what an impossibility - and this doesnt settle the matter at all, or cure the evil. I have one editorial on the matter taken from a local paper. [[underlined]] Saturday January 11, 1936 [[/underlined]] It began to drizzle in the morning, so Dick decided not to go out. He went to make some inquiries about going to Carriacou and I went with him. We stopped at the Post Office and bought some of the current issues of stamps. The 1/2d, 1 1/2d & 2 1/2d are partly pictorial - with pictures of king George in the corners - they are, Grand Anse Beach 1/2 d, Grand Etang 1 1/2 d, St George's 2 1/2d. The other set is what I should call a seal of the colony & King George. They are 1d, 2d, 3d, 6d, 1s (I think there are higher denominations too) This afternoon when we were working on stamps, Wilfred, one of the boys who works in the hotel, asked Dick if he would like to buy some stamps The local dealers pay 1d a doz. The boy brought us 40 stamps - quite a few jubilees - and we gave him 6d for encouragement. We may get quite a [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 71 [[/preprinted]] bunch through him. [[underlined]] Sunday January 12, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick was out this morning, but came back for lunch. I did little but read, and take a shower. All in all a very quiet Sunday. [[underlined]] January 13,1936 [[/underlined]] Dick was out for the day, but he left a bunch of letters for me to type, as the mail closes at 4 p.m. I also had a few of my own to write so it kept me busy most of the morning & afternoon. After tea Mrs. Garraway called to see me. We had a little chat & then went for a walk. We walked around the Carenage to the banana shed, and back. It is a pretty stretch of water. We passed the new Empire theatre which looks nice enough on the outside - and is supposed to be fairly nice in. [[underlined]] January 14, 1936 [[/underlined]] I spent most of the day getting caught up in my journal. To day was boat day. I never knew
[[preprinted]] 72 [[/preprinted]] it could come to mean anything in my life - but it is interesting to get mail. In the afternoon I went to the library & met Miss ^[[insertion]] Ruby [[/insertion]] Com[[strikethrough]]m[[/strikethrough]]issiong the librarian. She showed me 2 Carib stories and we had a most interesting talk. Borrowed another book "Jenny Wren" a sequel to "Curates Wife" by E.H. Young - I didn't like it as well. [[underlined]] Wednesday January 15 1936 [[/underlined]] This morning after breakfast the boy arrived with the mail - lots of it. Dick stayed a little longer reading it so didnt get out until 9:30. Later on in the morning I went down stairs & met one of the country priests - nice chap - & had my first swizzle. In the afternoon the notice came that our magazines were here. It was a package of magazines & Christmas cards - we spent the rest of the afternoon reading them. [[underlined]] Thursday, January 16, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick left at 10:30 for Carriacou. I always hate to have him go away [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 73 [[/preprinted]] but it might was well be this week as next. After dinner I met the 6 daughters of the Jackson's & Mrs J's sister Anita. Mr & Mrs Jackson, Mr Smith & I played bridge until quite late. [[underlined]] Friday ^[[insertion]] Jan [[/insertion]] 17, 1936 [[/underlined]] I didn't do much this morning. Miss Mab Bertram had asked me to go swimming to Grand Anse, in the afternoon, so about 4:15 we left. Only two of us went in swimming. Mrs Jackson was just getting over her cold so she didn't go in. The club house is just a frame affair with dressing rooms downstairs. Upstairs is the bar and social hall. There were some English ladies upstairs but they did not seem very cordial - color question again. The water was very nice and I enjoyed it. It is at times like this that I wish I had confidence in myself. Two young men in sail boats came out to the beach. Some of the sitters on shore seemed to belittle the yachtsmen but it is most likely sour
[[preprinted]] 74 [[/preprinted]] grapes. I think it is a worthwhile sight to see a young man handling a neat little sailing boat. In the evening we [[strikethrough]] pau [[/strikethrough]] played bridge again. I had a very restless night. [[underlined]] January 18, 1936 [[/underlined]] I typed some letters and in the afternoon I went on reading my new book. Dick came home sooner than I expected. He had early tea. (Look on p.79) I was glad to see him - as usual. The rest of the day was most uneventful. [[underlined]] January 19, 1936 [[/underlined]] Just another day. In the afternoon we heard the dedication of the Theodore Roosevelt building. We saw this bldg. when we were in New York, and we wondered what it was. It is next to the American Museum of Natural History, facing the Park. There was a symphony written for the occasion and I enjoyed it a great deal. Theodore Roosevelt Jr gave a short talk about his father as a naturalist and father of a family interested in natural history. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 75 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] January 20, 1936 [[underlined]] Dick was out in the morning & I was busy writing a few letters. In the afternoon Mr Jackson and Dorothy took me out to their place in the country. It is called "The Hope" and was built 10 years ago at a cost of $10,000. I think the figure may be exaggerated! Mr J is going to get the place fixed up as he is hoping to rent it to the new manager of Barclay's Bank. Mr Jackson is very fond of his place and he kept telling me how much ^[[insertion]] nicer [[/insertion]] the people were out there than the ones one had to associate with in town. To emphasize his point he saw to it that I met some of the neighbors. Mrs Mills, their nearest neighbor, came up as we were leaving. She was nice - and not a Creole. Then we went down to see another family, Mr & Mrs Wells, and I found the same to be true. I think I understand now what "nice" means to Mr. Jackson. When we were at the Wells' we heard that the King (George V) was slowly dieing, and the first announcement
[[preprinted]] 76 [[/preprinted]] we heard later in the evening was that he was dead. In the evening I played bridge again. Poor Dick was left to amuse himself. I felt guilty about playing so late but there was little I could do about it. When I got upstairs I found Dick in bed, but not asleep. "You smell of smoke" [[underlined]] Tuesday January 21, 1936 [[/underlined]] Queen Victoria died on this day in 1901. This means her grandson died 35 years, all but a day, after she did. The Nova Scotia came in & we got some mail. I got a letter from the West Indian Review saying they would be pleased to consider some articles of mine. Guadeloupe & Barbados were suggested. I'm not as thrilled as I should be. Dick's proof of his manuscript arrived and I got the bright idea that he should read it to-night so that he could send it back in to-morrow's mail. The poor dear worked late - I went to bed & to sleep. [[underlined]] Wednesday, January 22, 1936 [[/underlined]] We got the manuscript in the supplementary mail. In the afternoon I went to see [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 77 [[/preprinted]] Mrs Garraway but she was out. Came home and listened to Stanley Baldwin's talk - very fine indeed. [[underlined]] Thursday, January 23, 1936 [[/underlined]] Nothing much in [[strikethrough]] evening [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] morning [/insertion]]. In afternoon went to Richmond Hill Club with Mrs Jackson. They have 2 tennis courts - both concrete, and pretty hard on the feet. It was quite a windy day too. Anyway I played tennis - two sets. After tennis we played bridge. Quite a nice bunch of ladies - and one gentleman Sir Eustace (?). We got home quite late for dinner. Dick began without me, but I soon caught up to him. [[underlined]] Friday January 24, 1936 [[underlined]] Dick was out in the morning and at lunch. He came home in time for a late lunch. In the afternoon we both went to the library. I looked thru' magazines & made notes, Dick read "Bulldog Drummond Returns". We were there until 4. As we left the assistant librarian remarked to me that we looked like brother & sister - she isn't the first person
[[preprinted]] 78 [[/preprinted]] in the West Indies to say that. The little man at the Quincallerie ^[[insertion]] in Guadeloupe [[/insertion]] also made the same remark. A sign in our "lavatory" reads. "Do not throw chemicals in the Sceptic Tank". [[underlined]] Saturday January 25, 1936 [[/underlined]] I was in the library most of the day Taking notes on the old newspapers & magazines they have there. Dick came over at tea time & called me. I went back again in the evening to borrow a book to read over the week-end. "Four Frightened People" by E. Arnot Robertson. [[underlined]] Sunday January 26, 1936 [[/underlined]] I read most of the day. Dick went to take Antoine in the morning. A boat called the Sonia - the largest I've seen in the harbor - came up to the wharf in the afternoon. [[underlined]] Monday January 27, 1936 [[/underlined]] In the morning I wrote a few letters. Then I went to the library. Borrowed "The Postman always Rings Twice" by James M. Cain. I was warned that it was a very wicked book and I believe that a certain person was trying to save my morals or moral sense from total destruction. As far [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 79 [[/preprinted]] as I can see it is just a very plain spoken book - not any more immoral than many others written at present. - [[underlined]] Saturday [[/underlined]] (insert) Having forgotten to tell of the walk I took this day, I shall have to do so now. In the morning I took a walk up past Government House. The view from the hills in back of St George's is beautiful. I saw several nice [[strikethrough]] r [[/strikethrough]] places to take a picture but as I didn't have a camera I couldn't have the ones I would have liked. To describe a view such as this is an impossibility. The little houses along the road all have nice flower gardens. I was gone most of the morning, but it was most enjoyable. [[underlined]] Tuesday, January 28, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick & I worked on stamps most of the day. We have been buying small lots of miscellaneous stamps and they had to be sorted, washed, etc. It was a holiday in Grenada as it was the day of the king's funeral. Many people went to the services held in the churches, but I didnt go as it was going to be too crowded. I heard most of the service over the radio.
[preprinted]] 80 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] Wednesday, January 29, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick's birthday but we spent it working - packing. I gave him a bunch of stamps, and later I'll give him a book of Snodgrass'. I worked pretty hard in the morning as I thought the trunk might have to go by noon. As it turned out it left at 4 o'clock. The afternoon was spent resting & fooling around with trying to prove that a man could be 1/6 indian. Late that afternoon Father 'Zander (Alexander) called and we began a game of bridge which went on after supper and until 10:30. When I came up stairs Dick was in bed with a headache. I do treat my Darling pretty poorly at times - and on his birthday too! [[underlined]] Thursday, January 30, 1936 [/underlined]] To-day we leave Grenada - much to my sorrow. By 10 o'clock we were all packed and ready to go. In fact we took the 10 o'clock launch. Miss Susan Lawrence (British ^ [[insertion]] Ind. [[/insertion]] Labor Party) was on the launch with us. It was good to be on the "Nerissa" again! [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 81 [[/preprinted]] [[double underlined]] St. Vincent [[/underlined]] [[underlined]] Thursday January 30, 1936 [[/underlined]] We arrived about 4:30 and after much discussion etc. with boatmen we finally were rowed ashore at a great speed - total cost 5/ There were 2 celebrities on board. Miss Susan Lawrence - I've mentioned her before - and his Excellency the Governor. There was a great to do about the Governor getting off (Grier I believe is the name). The shore was lined with soldiers and policemen and they fired a salute of 17 guns for him. Mr Davis of the Pelican hotel met us at the Customs house. As per usual our bags were not opened. When we arrived at the hotel we were not able to get a room at once, as they were rather filled. However another couple was going out this evening so we waited for their room. The hotel is nice and clean, and the food good. We worked a Crossword & went to bed early. I felt pretty sleepy after doing nothing much of anything
[[preprinted]] 82 [[/preprinted]] [[underline]] Friday January 31, 1936 [[/underline]] At seven we were awakened by the maid who brought us our orange juice. We went out to the dining room for breakfast. After breakfast we discussed rates with Mrs. Davis. She had asked 10s a night a piece ($2.40) yet in the morning she made us a rate of $40 a piece a month--quite a reduction--yet a price to be expected on most of the islands. At this price we each have a room, and if we shared a room it would be $5.00 a month less. It wasn't worth it as the rooms are small. The rest of the morning was spent unpacking and Dick went down for his motor. After tea--which was a good Tea, with cake etc--Dick & I went for a little walk. We went thru' the market place and back thru' a poor quarter near the sea. Then we went up Halifax St. past the P.O. and Public Library. Then back to the hotel which is just a block from these two. They seem to have a number of [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 83 [[/preprinted]]churches in town--more than St Georges. We passed the Anglican, Wessleyn, Catholic, Gospel, & Scots Kirk. The first 3 are quite large. We also passed the War Memorial and the Thompson Home (for the relief of destitute ladies) Didn't do much but read, this evening. To bed fairly early. [[underline]] Saturday, February 1, 1936 [[/underline]] This morning I went to the Post Office, where I mailed Dorothy Jackson's letters of introduction to Mrs. R. H. Hatch, at the Rectory & Miss Louie Fraser. I also bought some stamps & to all appearances they are still using the old issue last named in Scott's. Then I went to the Library. Their library is nothing to compare with the one in Grenada. They have a nice collection of Carib stories, which I didn't have time to look at very carefully. This is a Carnegie Free Library yet one has to pay a monthly fee for borrowing--6 d a month. Their books of Biography & History are carefully locked up. Their Fiction is on shelves, but I doubt whether they have 500 volumes in all on the
[[preprinted]] 84 [[/preprinted]] shelves. Either their circulation is large, or else they just do not have the books. In the evening Mr & Mrs Hatch called. They had lived near the Jacksons in Grenada & are very nice people. They invited us to church and to the Rectory. I shall certainly do both. [[underlined]] Sunday, February 2, 1936 [[/underlined]] I spent the day in bed as I didn't feel very well. A good deal of the time was spent reading the book I got from the library - "Beneath Tropic Seas" by William Beebe (G.P. Putnam's Sons 1928) This being his account of his expedition to Haiti to study & record the Haitian fish. It is quite readable altho' it has some very feeble similies. (Ref. Dick's Journal) [[underlined]] Monday, February 3, 1936 [[/underlined]] It is quite interesting to sit here at this table & look out of the window, across the little parking, to where the waves beat on the shore. The waves are rarely two feet high, and they have a most delightful roll & swish. Right in my line of vision is a tall palm tree and beyond that, just skirting the bend of the bay, is the hazy [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 85 [[/preprinted]] outline of some of the Grenadines. The sea is as deep a blue as the ink I am writing with. Once in a while a pretty little sailing vessel comes in to the bay. The street cleaner is busily picking up papers from the parking. This special street cleaner is a woman, dressed in a blue dress, covered with a white apron, with a man's old felt hat on her head. Except for the head gear she might be any person's house maid. She uses her shovel & broom more efficiently than any man, and as a result of her work, the parking is a tidy little place to look upon. Once in a while a mother hen or turkey walks across the grass, with two or 3 or her brood following her. No one seems to disturb these animals. I believe I have seen more rags, beggars, drunks, and general poverty on this island than elsewhere. Saturday afternoon I got an eyeful of just such stuff. It may be that a great many people of this sort pass the hotel. Least I forget, I want to write down the good - or otherwise - stories I've been reading in our magazines
[[preprinted]] 86 [[/preprinted]] *"Tinsel Lady" by Channing Pollock "How I Captured Hauptmann" by James J. Finn and D. Thomas Curtin. *"The President's Mystery story" by Rupert Hughes Sammuel Hopkins Adams, Anthony Abbot Rita Weiman, S.S. Van Dine, John Erskine "The Moon's Our Home" Faith Baldwin "Love Can Happen" by Joseph Hergesheimer [[underlined]] Tuesday, February 4, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick was out in the morning & away for lunch. I wrote some letters and read. After lunch I went to the P.O. & bought some of the current issue of stamps. The ones I got are - in order of issue - 1/2, 1, 2, 2 1/2, 1/, 2/, 3p, 6p, 4p, 1 1/2. Then I went looking for stamp buyers. I found one - old fellow by the name of Chapman - it will be difficult to do business with him. Went to the library & got a book. "Mayerling" - the Love & Tragedy of a Crown Prince by Claude Anet. Not a bad book at all. Throws some light on the suicide of Rudolph of Hapsburg. Must look up Countess Larisch's Memoirs when I get back to U.S. She tells her part - if I remember correctly. While in the library I took time to [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 87 [[/preprinted]] look at a few magazines. In "The Queen" of January 1st 1936 I found this: "An Interesting Legend" "Madam: I was much interested, while on a visit to the quaint town of Santo Domingo, Porto Rico, at a legend in which all the natives believe. I think it may, perhaps, be of equal interest to your readers. The rather fascinat[strikethrough]]ely[[/strikethrough]]ingly carved metal casket in my picture rests in the cathedral of the town, and is reputed to contain the ashes of the great Columbus, supposed discoverer of America. Once a year with impressive pomp this casket is opened." "Incidently, it is not, I believe, universally known that the actual discoverer of America was a certain Omerigo Vespuccio, after whom, as can be seen, the continent was named, and that the renowned Christopher was mistaken in his belief that he had found the new continent Yours Faithfully Sarah McJames" Edinburgh." As I was leaving the library Dick was just coming up on his motor so we walked home together.
[[preprinted]] 88 [[/preprinted]] After tea we paid a visit to the Hatche[[strikethough]] ' [[/strikethrough]]s at the Rectory. Mr Hatch was in the garden and Mrs Hatch was inside supervising a play and practice of singing. She is such a busy person! We did have time for a nice chat tho' - and we did enjoy our visit. They have two lovely children. While there we had our first drink of Sorrel. It is a juice made out of the calix of a plant allied to the hibiscus. The calix are crushed, sugar ^ [[insertion]] & water [[/insertion]] added, and the whole think boiled. The resulting liquid is a syrup to which water - in our case, soda, [[insertion]] or carbonated [[/insertion]] - is added to make the beverage. It is a most tasty & refreshing drink. [[underlined]] Wednesday February 5, 1936 [[/underlined]] Spent the whole morning writing letters as the mail closes at 3 for the U.S. They seemed to take a half-day holiday to-day as the shops were closed. As I finished my book I went to the library to get another. This time I thought I'd make a real job of it so I got "Anthony Adverse" by Hervey Allen. I think I'm going to enjoy it a great deal. In the evening after supper Dick [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 89 [[/preprinted]] and I went to the library. He used the Handbook, while I read the magazines. Then home & to bed fairly early. This is one island where we have to use a mosquito net. There are quite a few of them ^ [[insertion]] mos [[/insertion]] flying around in the day time too. [[underlined]] Thursday, February 6, 1936 [[/underlined]] When I went to breakfast this morning there was a note for me at my place, saying that there was a registered letter for me at the P.O. Dick left fairly soon after breakfast to be gone most of the day. I went to the Post Office and got the letter. It was the stamps from British Guiana. Then I took a walk up to look at the cathedral. It is a nice large building with 3 large stained glass windows. The one above the altar is supposed to have been given by the wife [[insertion]] widow [[/insertion]] of Lt-Governor Dundas. It is not all one window. I believe it is called 3 lancet windows. On either side of the recess of the altar are two more windows. One which was blown in during a recent hurricane, but which has been repaired. The other is a fairly recent one which is supposed to have been made for St. Pauls in London, but
[[preprinted]] 90 [[/preprinted]] as Queen Victoria didn't like it, it was offered to the colonies & St Vincent got it. While I was in the Cathedral Mrs Hatch came along and then I walked home with her. I stayed a while & chatted and then they drove me home when they went for their children at noon. Dick was out to lunch. Mr Hatch gave me some postage stamps which I fiddled with a little. [[underlined]] Friday February 7, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick was home most of the morning. In the afternoon he went out to do some collecting. This evening we went to dinner at the Hatches. It was a very pleasant evening. We talked, & later on we played Pit[strikethrough]] ch [[/strikethrough]]. They brought us home. [[underlined]] Saturday February 8, 1936 [[/underlined]] I woke up with a sore throat, which didnt put me in much of a mood for anything. I wrote a few letters as the mail closes pretty soon for U.S. Spent most of the day gargling and swabbing out my throat. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 91 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] Sunday, February 9, 1936 [[/underlined]] As I felt better when I got up, I decided to go to church. As luck would have it I got there just in time - 9 o'clock service - and it was Communion Sunday at that. I found the Anglican (Anglo-Catholic) service quite a bit like the Episcopal. While in church my sore throat began to change into a very runny cold. I was glad to get home and to bed and felt pretty miserable. I rested & slept most of the afternoon and evening. [[underlined]] Monday, February 10, 1936 [[/underlined]] I seem to feel better in the mornings. Went up for the mail - 3 letters. [[underlined]] Tues 11th; Wed 12th; Thursday 13th 1936 [[/underlined]] Most of my time these 3 days were spent nursing a sore throat or my wisdom tooth. If one wasn't hurting, the other one was. [[underlined]] Friday 14th February 1936 [[/underlined]] St Valentine's day. We got mail to-day. Several magazines and letters as well as 2 checks for me. Dick was at home. Late in the afternoon a boy brought several hundred stamps - good ones, and we worked
[[preprinted]] 92 [[/preprinted]] on them. We also took a walk along the road which clings to the mountain side along the south side of the bay. Nice view of the Bay from there. [[underlined]] Saturday, February 15th, 1936 [[/underlined]] I did some shopping in the morning. all small articles seem to be 6 cents. I also went to the Pharmacy and when I told Dr Deane about my sore cheek, caused by the new tooth biting it, he insisted that I come upstairs and let him paint it with silver nitrate - very kind of him. It did help the place a lot too, He also did my throat. Mrs Davis' son sold us some unwashed stamps - over 600 - for 6/ and we spent a good part of the afternoon working on them. [[underlined]] Sunday, February 16th 1936 [[/underlined]] In the morning we took a walk up along the hills in back of the town, up to Richmond Hill. We then took a road [[strikethrough]] to [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] thru' [[/insertion]] part of the village up to the pass where we could get a good view both of Young's island & Fort Duvernette. It was a partially clouded morning so it was splendid for walking. The whole walk was a little less than 3 miles. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 93 [[/preprinted]] In the afternoon I took a little nap and later on we worked a little on stamps. As the radio programs were good I just sat and listened most of the evening. [[underlined]] Monday February 17th 1936 [[/underlined]] Woke up feeling a slight re-occurrence of the pain in my side. Frittered the morning away doing various odds & ends of sewing and mending, also some business letter writing. I took a nap and slept until tea time. After tea we went for a walk up the road along the side of the Court house. We walked along a mountain trail & across a small valley planted with cotton & some kind of a [[strikethrough]] tube [[/strikethrough]] bulb plant - looks like one of the vegetables we eat (Tannia?) When I got home my side felt even worse than before - I felt pretty worn out, and then the pain subsided and by supper it was gone. At supper time it came back again. Stayed up to listen to Grace Moore but find her program cluttered up with other artists and not at all the gay type of program that it used to be.
[[preprinted]] 94 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] Tuesday February 18th 1936 [[/underlined]] Consulted the Encyclopaedia Britanica 11th Edition for the following which has interested me. [[underlined]] Copts [[/underlined]] - the ^ [[insertion]] early [[/insertion]] native Christians of Egypt & their successors of the Monophysite sect, now racially the purest representatives of the ancient Egyptians. Relig - Christ was one person with one nature which was made up by the indissoluble union of a divine and a human nature ..... His Divinity not separated from His Manhood. In all other points of dogma they agree with the Greek Church. [[underlined]] Protestant Episcopal Church [[/underlined]] belongs to the Anglican communion of churches. [[underlined]] Amerigo Vespucci [[/underlined]] (1451 - 1512) merchant & adventurer who gave his name of Amerigo to the new world as America. A letter of 30th of December 1492 shows that he was then in Seville. Until 1496 never been away from Europe. Claims to have sailed from Cadiz on 10th May 1497 on a "free-lance" expedition ..... reached a supposed continental coast in 16°N., 70'W from Grand Canary. They sailed along this coast for 80 leagues & then 870 l more always n.w. which from this description should be in British Columbia. If his own account [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 95 [[/preprinted]] had been trustworthy he would have reached the mainland 8 days before John Cabot ... but Vespucci's own statement of his exploring achievements hardly carries conviction. Since Alexander von Humboldt discussed the subject the general weight of opinion has been that Vespucci did not make the 1497 voyage and that he had no share in the 1st discovery of the American continent." Spent the afternoon reading and sleeping. Evening much the same way. [[underlined]] Wednesday, February 19, 1936 [[/underlined]] "He who looks back sees his mistakes piled up behind him" - Charlie Chan. Last night I had great difficulties with a cough - and nothing to take for it - so this morning I purchased some Vicks Cough drops. I went to the library and read the mags. for a while. I gleaned the following interesting facts ...... Georg Jensen the silver craftsman died in October ^[[insertion]] 1935 [[/insertion]] ..... The Frick collection of art objects is now on display to the public at the Frick home on 5th Ave N.Y. The supposition is that it will be a public art museum... a picture - Caesar's wife - a matter of colour (a picture of two bull terriers & 6 puppies) by C Ambler may be purchased from the
[[preprinted]] 96 [[/preprinted]] Illustrated Newspapers - 346 Strand - W.C.2. London Wrote one letter - to the family. Still battling a sore throat along with the cough. I can't seem to get straightened out. Dick must get pretty tired of hearing me groan around. Spent the afternoon reading the short stories in "Liberty". As this is 1/2 day holiday there were a lot of bums on the street this afternoon. Many of them were doing a lot of loud talking. None of them seemed specially happy. While reading "Anthony Adverse" the idea struck me that much the same sort of thing - along biographical lines - could be done with current history & happenings. The factualities of a thing like "Personal History" together with the sensual, moral, artistic, religious touches of "Anthony Adverse". If done along the lines I think of, it could run serially and lose nothing thereby. After supper Dick finished his letter to his family and we then went over to the Post Office to mail it. He is talking of going up Soufrière to morrow. [[underlined]] Thursday February 20, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick & I had breakfast at 7 and he began his trip to go up Soufrière. About 10:30 I decided to got to the Rectory [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 97 [[/preprinted]] to pay Mrs Hatch a visit. Just as I was [[strikethrough]] leaving [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] arriving [[/insertion]] Mrs Arthur Grimble - wife of the administrator - (now being transferred to the Seychelles) was leaving. I didn't get much of an opportunity to look her over. Mrs Hatch and I had a nice visit and I left about 11:45 - got home in time for lunch. The conversation at lunch gave me a great desire to collect data detrimental to English police systems, law courts, or other judicial & legislative functions. Certain people have been reading about U.S. 3rd Degree and so think they know it all. Dick got back about 2:30 - much earlier than I expected him. He had an interesting trip. We went to bed fairly early as he was tired [[underlined]] Friday February 21, 1936 [[/underlined]] As Dick was tired he was home most of the day. We expected the "Ingrid" or "Lady Hawkins" to bring us some mail, but no soap. I finished reading "Anthony Adverse" as well as the serial "Smoke in her Eyes" by Allene Corliss. The heroine of the latter reminds me of Arline, but Paul certainly isnt the hero. In the course of my reading to day I came across the following which I should like to keep "I want to keep all that
[[preprinted]] 98 [[/preprinted]] I am able of courtesy and consideration for others and to cultivate fine manners because they grow out of my heart's desire to make the Golden Rule my measurement of thought & action. I do not know of anything in everyday living that is a better insurance against small, worrisome faults than the innate courtesy of the well bred. And if good breeding didn't begin generations back of us, we can at least determine that it is going to start with us." ("These I will Keep" by Mrs. George B. Simmons) ....... Among people who try to practice luxury & charity at the same time the only ones who ever learn to care about other people, outside of their own families, are those who are attacked by a mortal disease themselves (Anthony Adverse) ...... Just because you are engaged, is no reason to shut off every avenue of escape. (Dan & Sylvia Radio) Almost every day at tea my teaspoon is a Waldorf-Astoria spoon, made by Gorham. We also have cheap silver (German silver) spoons in the exact pattern of mother's latest I believe it is "1820". I slept most of the early part of the afternoon & Dick & I talked until supper time, - about "just things." [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 99 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] Saturday, February 22, 1936 [[/underlined]] Most of the morning was spent mending and darning. About 11 o'clock the Hatchs came by to take us swimming. We went to the Aquatic Club - as nice a place as the one in Grenada - situated on the shore facing Young's island. From where we were we couldn't see Fort Duvernette. The sea was very nice and we didnt stay half long enough. I wish we could have gone earlier. The afternoon was spent working on a few stamps. The usual Saturday afternoon programs were on the air - & enjoyed. I got the book "Green Hell" by Julian G [[/strikethrough]] Duguid from the library this evening. [[underlined]] Sunday, February 23, 1936 [[/underlined]] "It is one of the tragedies of travel that friendly personalities flash across one's path, and like shooting stars vanish forever in the darkness." - Green Hell. This is becoming quite true in my case. I went to church again this morning. The sermon was poor - and I hardly heard it at all. It was brought to my notice that Margaret the little Hatch girl is quite a pretty child. She was dressed most becomingly
[[preprinted]] 100 [[/preprinted]] in a little red & white flowered dress and a bright red sash and poke bonnet. The Girl Guides - Cathedral troup - came to church in their uniforms. After tea Dick & I walked up to Fort Charlotte. It is quite a climb up to the fort and I was pretty tired when I got there. We had a good view of the Grendadines & Kingstown even tho' it was a little hazy. The fort is now used as a lunatic asylum & I cant help but think what a severe place that is for such a thing. We didn't see any of the inmates but I heard them. If one of the signs over the door is to be believed I think the place would be anything but a good place to be "put away". The sign read "To female [[underlined]] cells [[/underlined]]". The door was barred as if it were a dungeon. We had a little chat with the negro who is in charge, of the ship signaling station on top of the fort, and he allowed us to look thru' his spy glass to Kingstown. The fort was built, so it seems, to control the land, and it has little or no protection from the sea. Maybe ships weren't supposed to have that high & good ^[[insertion]] a [[/insertion]] range. The name of the town at the foot of fort Charlotte is Edinburgh. I came home quite tired but [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 101 [[/preprinted]] well pleased with the walk. [[underlined]] Monday, February 24 1936 [[/underlined]] Children dear please dont sneeze This is your Mother - your Aunt Louise - Imagine dreaming such a rime & waking up with it still in mind! Dick says if I'm not careful I'll be writing a second Kubla Kahn. Went over the the Post Office and gave them our forwarding address. Spent a good part of the early afternoon in the library. Nothing much in the evening. [[underlined]] Tuesday, February 25, 1936 [[/underlined]] Dick packed 2 drawers of the trunk before he left this morning. He then went to town to pack his motor. I packed my part of the trunk so that it was ready to go by noon. Mr Hatch called to say that Mrs H. might not be able to make it this evening as she wasn't feeling any too well. In the early afternoon I went to the post office and was pleasantly surprised to have some mail waiting for us. Among the bunch of mail was a Paly Times from Daddy. Some of the most interesting news notices were: - California is trying to bar penniless
[[preprinted]] 102 [[/preprinted]] Date February 4th 1936 transients. Feb 4th - David Lamson is to undergo his [[strikethrough]] f [[/strikethrough]] third trial and jurymen were being chosen. Charles Lindbergh passed his 34th birthday George H. Whisler's name is on the list of 30 from which 19 members are chosen to serve on the grand jury of Santa Clara county. U.C. plans to offer a course in television in its extension division. "The 40 Days of Musa Dagh" is now a play on Broadway - directed by Max Reinhardt Gordon Davis, son of Mrs Clark T Davis, recently deceased, is now director of the Portland Community Players. Barbara Beach Thompson (quite a golf enthusiast) were entertained in Honolulu by [[insertion]] Mr & [[/insertion]] Mrs Frederick Butler Carter III who have a small daughter. Betty Nourse has gone to New York where she plans to study at the Traphagen School of Design. Grace Westphal (Kappa Delta U.C.) is now Mrs. William Hays of Palo Alto - Bill Yates was best man, and Emma Barham was a maid of honor. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 103 [[/preprinted]] We had tea at 4 and went aboard soon after the ship came in. Even at that we didn't get our cabin until about 6:30. I just had time to dress before the Hatches came aboard. Had Pragnell again. Room 8. The boat was rather crowded so we had to sit at second sitting - almost 8 o'clock. Our waiter was very poor & seemed to resent having to wait on us. We had dinner - soup to nuts - and I think the Hatchs enjoyed it. They left about 9:30. Before dinner Dick & I did some money changing for an old woman who came aboard to sell things. As a result we had a hundred or more (egtd) "God Bless You"s heaped on our heads. I asked Mr Hatch about Fort Charlotte - and its uses - and he told me that what I suspected was true. The conditions, sanitary & otherwise, would shame the 18th century. The fort is used for the paupers as well. As there is no one to care for the insane, they are locked up and if they screech and yell it is "only the paupers whom they bother". They are trying to get
[[preprinted]] 104 [[/preprinted]] enough money together for a home in the country, but so far they have little or nothing built. They have some land, but the land owners in the surrounding county object to having such an institution near them. We sailed for Barbados about 10:30 p.m. I am constantly running across news items which I should like to keep and I think these next 20 pages an excellent spot for various & sundry gleanings. - [[double underlined]] June [[/double underlined]] - I'm putting these in a card file. More convenient as well as workable arrangement New Deal Almanac from Liberty - 1935-1936 [[numbered list, with numbers in margin]] 1 The handout is quicker than the eye. - [[underlined]] Jas. A. Farley [[/underlined]] 2 Hell is paved with good intentions, and the United States is paved with PWA appropriations. - [[underlined]] The Taxpayer [[/underlined]] 3 He who laughs last, lasts longest. - [[underlined]] F. D. Roosevelt [[/underlined]] 4 Honor the charge they made! Honor the Light Brigade. - [[underlined]] Tennessee Valley Authority [[/underlined]] 5 The evil that men do lives after them; The good is often interred with their bones. - [[underlined]] Rep. Wright Putnam [[/underlined]] 6 Silver threats against the gold. - [[underlined]] Senator Elmer Thomas [[/underlined]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 105 [[/preprinted]] [[numbered list continues, with numbers in margin]] 7 What's sauce for a goose is source for propaganda. - [[underlined]] New Deal [[/underlined]] 8 A bread line is the shortest distance between two votes. - [[underlined]] FERA [[/underlined]] Jack Spratt can eat no fat, His wife can eat no lean, 9 Because the price of pigs is at the highest ever seen. - [[underlined]] The Consumers League [[/underlined]] 10 Bust the trust that trussed the bust. - [[underlined]] Garment Workers Union [[/underlined]] 11 Early to bed and never to rise, We share the wealth of industrious guys. - [[underlined]] Chronic Unemployables [[/underlined]] 12 Great debts from little appropriations grow. - [[underlined]] Senator Carter Glass [[/underlined]] 13 What shall it profit a man if he win the war and lose his war profits. - [[underlined]] Senator Nye [[/underlined]] 14 Where there's a will there's an inheritance tax. - [[underlined]] Treasury Department [[/underlined]] 15 Give me liberty or give me less debt. - [[underlined]] Herbert Hoover [[/underlined]] 16 Now is the time for every third man to come to my party. - [[underlined]] Senator Boroh [[/underlined]] 17 All that glisters is not the gold standard. - [[underlined]] Inflationists [[/underlined]] 18 It is more blessed to give than to receive. - [[underlined]] Income-Tax Division [[/underlined]] 19 The hand that cradles the rock rules the earth. - [[underlined]] The Radicals [[/underlined]] 20 Where there is strife there is hope. - [[underlined]] Labor Agitators [[/underlined]] 21 Blessed are the meek, for they shall inherit the taxes - [[underlined]] Middle Class [[/underlined]] 22 A little earning is a dangerous thing - [[underlined]] Capitalists [[/underlined]] 23 Cast your bread upon the waters, and it will return to you in a Benefit Payment - [[underlined]] Rexford Tugwell [[/underlined]] 24 Be it ever so humble, there's no place like a subsistence homestead - Mrs. Roosevelt 25 Never let the Right Wing know what the Left Wing is doing - The Communists. 26 As ye sow, so-so shall ye reap - Sec. Wallace.
[[preprinted]] 106 [[/preprinted]] [[numbered list continues, with numbers in margin]] 27 Build thee more stately mansions, O my Soul! - Fed. Housing Admin. 28 Don't hatch your chickens until they're counted. - The A.A.A. 29 Millions for tribute, but not one cent for defense - Pacifists [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 107 [[/preprinted]] Questions of sentence structure which Dick considers O.K. and which I think are incorrect. [[numbered list, with numbers in margin]] 1. I am writing to ask for an official opinion upon a situation which has arisen and [[strikethrough]] upon [[/strikethrough]] certain rulings of officials in this Presidency. 2. We expect to visit Antigua where we are told procedure is similar to that obtaining here.
[[preprinted]] 108 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] Portrait [[/underlined]] From "The Caribee" March 1936 His eyes are blue and bleary; His face a mottled pink; He'd do without his dinner, But not without his drink. His ways are bluff & hearty, Though sometimes he is curt; He blusters when embarrassed, And swears when he is hurt. He tells a wicked story With nods, and winks, and pokes, In a voice designed for battle, But not for giving jokes. He's careful of his honour And very promptly squares His debts for bridge & poker, But tradesmen wait for years. He finds the good in nothing, Except some ancient rules; He thinks all men are rascals, And all but he are fools. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 109 [[/preprinted]] And on though life he blunders To his own errors blind, Afraid of seeming simple Ashamed of being kind - Don Pablo - [[underlined]] R. Corbet [[/underlined]] - [[double underline]] To His Son [[/double underline]]. What I shall leave thee, none can tell, But all shall say I wish thee well: I wish thee Vim, before all wealth, Both bodily & ghostly health; Nor too much wealth nor wit come to thee, So much of either may undo thee. I wish thee learning not for show Enough for to instruct and know; Not such as gentlemen require To prate at table or at fire. I wish thee all thy mother's graces, Thy father's fortunes and his places. I wish thee friends, and one at court, Not to build on, but support; To keep thee not in doing many Oppressions, but from suffering any. I wish thee peace in all thy ways, Nor lazy nor contentious days; And, when thy soul & body part, As innocent as how thou art.
[[preprinted]] 110 [[/preprinted]] [[underlined]] - From American Poetry Journal - Feb. 1934. Bombardment. [[/underlined]] God's thunders roared, and arched across the sky, The black battalions of the clouds wheeled by. Down sped the jewelled lances of the rain; The clouds belched fire, the cannons spoke again. Then through the crystal spears the sun-guard went, And hung a rainbow on the battlement. - Kenneth Abrams Fowler - [[underlined]] Portrait [[/underlined]] - He was like A placid field Accustomed to A certain yield. In the years planting; Humdrum state Of quiet and Legitimate Was slowly furrowed Till a find Of other to His ordered mind. Was quite untenable The tease Of field mouse to His tranquil ease. - Claire Aven Thomson - [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 111 [[/preprinted]] - [[underlined]] Sounds [[/underlined]] - Robins in rain Thunder grumbling A scythe over grain A wagon rumbling. Apples falling The rasp of a cricket A small boy calling Cows in a thicket. A sob in the trees When Autumn comes The drilling of bees With fairy drums. Crunching on snow A key in the lock A river's flow The chime of a clock Laughter of people With gifts to leave Bells from a steeple Christmas Eve. - L. Logan Kean - Editor - Frances Frost 147-45 Ash Avenue, Flushing L.I. New York. Ms - must have stamped, self-addressed envelope.
[[preprinted]] 112 [[/preprinted]] [[double underline]] Index [[/double underline]] [[underlined]] General [[/underlined]] [[left margin]] A [[/left margin]] Animals 11, 50. Aquatic Club, St. Vincent 99. Arima River, Trinidad 42. [[left margin]] B [[/left margin]] Balandra Bay, Trinidad 38. Banks 6. Barbados 76, 104. Belmont district, Trinidad 15. Bermuda 66. Birds 16, 50. Boarding Houses - Cumberland House 3. Mrs. Green's 2. Miss Huggin's 3. The Hall 3. Boca de Huevas, Trinidad 62. Boca de Monas, Trinidad 62. Bocas del Dragon, Trinidad 39, 59, 60. Botanical Gardens, Trinidad 53. Boxing Day 45, 51. Bridge 73, 74, 76, 80. British Guiana 11, 35, 89. British Labor Party 80. British Museum 52. [[left margin]] C [[/left margin]] California 11. Carrera Island, Trinidad 61. Carriacou, Grenadines 70, 72. Cathedral in St. Vincent 89. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 113 [[/preprinted]] [[double underline]] Index [[/double underline]] Caura River, Trinidad 42. Centipede 32. Chacachacare, Trinidad 60, 63. Chaguaramas Bay, Trinidad 39, 61. China 9, 18, 20. Chinese in Trinidad 23. Christmas 19, 27, 43, [[underlined]] 44 [[/underlined]] 45. Christmas Cards 27, 31, 68. Clothes 26. Cocktails 7, 17, 26, 56, 57, 72. Cocorite, Trinidad 41. Consuls 5, 40, 64. Cookery 35, 36, 88. Creoles in Trinidad 25. Cronstadt Island, Trinidad 61. Customs & Immigration 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 81. [[left margin]] D [[/left margin]] Dentists 30, 32, 34. Diego Islands, Trinidad 61. [[left margin]] E [[/left margin]] East Indians in Trinidad 23. English money 6. [[left margin]] F [[/left margin]] Five Islands, Trinidad 60. Food 5, 8. Fort Charlotte, St. Vincent 100, 103. Fort Duvernette, St. Vincent 92, 99. Frick art collection 95. Fungus 38. Furness S.S. Co. 1, 31.
[[preprinted]] 114 [[/preprinted]] [[left margin]] G [[/left margin]] Gasparee Island, Trinidad 39. Gasparillo Island, Trinidad 61. Government house, Grenada 79. Grand Anse, Grenada 73. Grenada 57, 67-80, 84, 99. Grenadines 85, 110. Guadeloupe 4, 27, 76, 78. Guadeloupe money 6. Guppies 52. [[left margin]] H [[/left margin]] Haiti 84. Haitian history 49. Hawaii 20, 21. Hotels - Home H. 67. H. de Paris 1. H. des Antilles 57. H. Sans Souci 8. Pelican H. 81. Pointe Balleine H. 61. St. James H. 67. Huevas Island, Trinidad 63. [[left margin]] I [[/left margin]] Insects 37, 38. Italians 25. [[left margin]] J [[/left margin]] Jamaica money 6. [[left margin]] K [[/left margin]] Kingstown, St. Vincent 100. [[left margin]] L [[/left margin]] Lake Antoine, Grenada 78. Leper colony 63. Les Saintes, Guadeloupe 27. Licenses 22, 68. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 115 [[/preprinted]] Library 16, 69, 72, 77, 78, 82, 83, 84, 86, 88, 89, 95, 101. [[left margin]] M [[/left margin]] Macqueripe Bay, Trinidad 13. Maids 57, 82. Mail 30, 31, 40, 64, 67, 72, 89, 91, 101. Monas Island, Trinidad 62. Mosquitoes 22, 89. Motorcycle 4, 27, 34, 64, 68, 82, 101. Movies 16, 28, 29, 36, 38, 40, 48, 58. Museums 49, 50, 51. [[left margin]] N [[/left margin]] Natives 15, 23, 25, 56, 69, 85. [[left margin]] P [[/left margin]] Paintings 9. Palestine 32. Pan-American Airways 32, 41. Plants 14, 54, 55. Policemen 22. Port of Spain, Trinidad 18, 22, 32, 63, 65. Portuguese jews in Trinidad 23. Prices and rates 15, 27, 28, 29 33, 36, 48. [[left margin]] R [[/left margin]] Radio 3, 68, 74, 93, 99. Richmond Hill Club 77. Ross' Drug Stores 6. [[left margin]] S [[/left margin]] San Francisco, California 8. Sans Souci, Trinidad 38. Soufriere (Mt.), St. Vincent 96. S.S. Cordillera 39. S.S. Flandre 39. S.S. Ingrid 97.
[[preprinted]] 116 [[/preprinted]] S.S. Lady Hawkins 97. S.S. Nerissa 37, 66, 80. S.S. Nova Scotia 76. S.S. Sonia 78. Stamp collection 34, 48, 49, 50, 58, 59, 68, 70, 79, 80, 86, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 99. Stauble's Bay, Trinidad 62. St. Anns district, Trinidad 14. St. Augustine, Trinidad 2, 7, 34, 65. St. Georges, Grenada 79, 83. St. James Hotel 67. St. Vincent 69, 81-104. Swimming 12, 13, 38, 39, 42, 99. Switzerland 5. [[left margin]] T [[/left margin]] Tacarigua River, Trinidad 42. Tetron Bay, Trinidad 62. Thanksgiving Day 19. Theodore Roosevelt Memorial 74. Tobago 49, 52, 58. Toco, Trinidad 38. Tram-cars 14. Trinidad 1-66. Trinidad Country Club 37. Trinidad money 6. Trinidad, races in 23, 24. [[left margin]] U [[/left margin]] University of California 102. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 117 [[/preprinted]] [[left margin]] V [[/left margin]] Valentine's Day 91. Venezuelans in Trinidad 24. Victoria Institute 49. [[left margin]] W [[/left margin]] Washington, D.C. 8. Wines 56, 57. Woolworth 20. [[left margin]] Y [[/left margin]] Young's Island, St. Vincent 92, 99. [[left margin]] Z [[/left margin]] Zoo (Wash., D.C.) 32.
[[preprinted]] 118 [[/preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Index [[/double underlined]] [[underlined]] Names [[/underlined]] Abbott, Anthony 86. Adams, Samuel Hopkins 86. Adamson, Mr. & Mrs. 2, 7, 8, 11, 12, 17, 18, 21, 25, 26, 32, 33, 38, 41, 42, 65. Alexander, Father 80. Allen, Herney 88, 96, 97, 98. Amerigo Vespucci 87, 99. Anet, Claude 86. Arner, Mr. M.C. 32. Baldwin, Faith 86. Baldwin, Stanley 87. Beebe, W[[superscript]][[underlined]] m [[/underlined]][[/superscript]]. 11, 84. Bell, Mr. 20. Bertram, Miss Mab 73. Blackwelder, "Daddy" 101. Bridges, W[[superscript]][[underlined]] m [[/underlined]][[/superscript]]. 11. Cain, James M. 78. Carmichael, Mr. & Mrs. 9, 18, 31. Carter (Betty Alden) 102. Comissiong, Miss Ruby 72. Cooper, Bernice 66. Corliss, Allene 97. Cromwell 68. Curtin, D. Thomas 86. Davis, Mr. & Mrs. 81, 82, 92. Davis, Gordon 102. Deane, Dr. 92. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 119 [[/preprinted]] Digby, Mr. 45, 58. Ditmars, Raymond 11. Duguid, Julian 99. Erskine, John 86. Evans, Sir Geoffrey and Lady 26. Fairchild, Johnny 63. Finn, Jas. J. 86. Fraser, Miss Lanie 83. Garraway, the Misses 57, 60, 66, 71, 77. Greer, Gov. 81. Grimble, Mrs. Arthur 97. Hatch, Rev. & Mrs. 83, 84, 88, 90, 97, 99, 101, 103. Guppy 52. Hayes (Grace Westphal) 102. Hergesheimer, Joseph 86. Huggins, Geo 3. Huggins, Miss Maude 3, 4, 35, 51, 57, 59. Hughes, Rupert 86. Ismay 51. Jackson, Mr. & Mrs. & Dorothy 67, 73, 75, 77, 83, 84. Jardine, Mr. 19, 20. Jemmott 44. Jensen, Georg 95. Johnson, Mr. 20. King George V 75, 76, 79. Kipling 24.
[[preprinted]] 120 [[/preprinted]] Lamson, David 102. Lawrence, Miss Susan 80, 87. Lindbergh, Chas. S. 102. Liston, Mrs. 35. Mann, W[[superscript]][[underlined]] m [[/underlined]][[/superscript]]. M. 32. Mills, Mrs. 75. Maessner, Wallace E. 5. "Muskrat." Mr. & Mrs. 33, 51, 66. Nourse, Betty 102. Oppenheim 43. Patterson, Mr. & Mrs. 18, 38. Phillis, Mr. & Mrs. 20, 42. Pickles, Mr. & Mrs. 19, 20. Pike, Mrs. 12, 19, 20. Pollock, Channing 86. Pouchet, Mr. 3, 4. Pound, Dr. 37, 38, 40, 51. Pragnell 103. Price, Mr. 58, 59, 66. Queen Victoria 76, 90. Rankine, Dr. 31. Robertson, E. Arnst 78. Russell, Ruth 19. Scott, Mr. 45, 57. Seabrooks 46. Sheean, Vincent 16, 96. Silaw, Mr. & Mrs. 19. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 121 [[/preprinted]] Simmons, Mrs. Geo. B. 98. Thompson, Barbara Beach 102. Urich, Prof. 7, 9, 10, 49, 50, 59. Van Dine, S.S. 86. Wall, Mrs. 39, 65. Wallace, Edgar 43, 49. Wardlaw, Dr. 20. Weiman, Rita 86. Wells, Mr. & Mrs. 75. Wharton, Algernon, Mr. & Mrs. 12, 21. Wharton, Louis, Mr. & Mrs. 18, 39. Whisler, Geo. H. 102. Wilfred 70. Willis, Mrs. S.C. 6. Wright, Mr. 20. Young, E.H. 69, 72.
[[preprinted]] 122 [[/preprinted]] [[double underlined]] Index [[/double underlined]] [[underlined]] Publications [[/underlined]] ‡ Anthony Adverse - Hervey Allen 88, 96, 97, 98. ‡ Beneath Tropic Seas - Beebe 84. Bulldog Drummond Returns 78. Cosmopolitan, magazine 6, 11, 30. ‡ The Curate's Wife - E.H. Young 69. ‡ The Door with the 7 Locks - E. [[strikethrough]] Oppenheim [[/strikethrough]] Wallace 43, 49. Encyclopedia Brittanica 94. ‡ Ex-Detective - E. Phillips Oppenheim 43. The Forty Days of Musa Dagh - 102. ‡ Four Frightened People - E. Arnot Robertson 78. Good Housekeeping, magazine 6. ‡ Green Hell - Julian Duguid. 99. ‡ How I Captured Hauptmann 86. ‡ Jenny Wren - E.H. Young 72. Kubla Khan 101. Liberty magazine 30, 96. ‡ Love Can Happen - Hergesheimer 86. ‡ Magic Island - Seabrooke. 46. ‡ Mayerling (The Love & Tragedy of a Crown Prince) 86. ‡ The Moon's Our Home - Faith Baldwin 86. Palo Alto Times, newspaper 101. ‡ Personal History 16, 96. ‡ The Postman Always Rings Twice - James M Cain 78. ‡ The President's Mystery Story 86 The Queen magazine 87. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[preprinted]] 123 [[/preprinted]] ‡ Smoke in Her Eyes - Allene Corliss 97. Snake Hunter's Holiday - Bridges & Ditmars 11. These I Will Keep 98. Thesis of Dick's 76. ‡ Tinsel Lady - Channing Pollock. 86. Trinidad Guardian, newspaper 7. West Indian Review, magazine 76. Woman's Home Companion, magazine 38. ‡ Indicates book or magazine counterpart read by me
[[preprinted]] 124 [[/preprinted]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[blank page]]
[[stamped]] B & PNo 13535 [[/stamped]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[insert of pre-typed page]] Notes Taken in the [[underlined]] Grenada [[/underlined]] Public Library [[underlined]] Blackwoods [[/underlined]] Edinburgh [[underlined]] Magazine [[/underlined]] Vol VI 1819-1820 (October to March) October 1819 Essays on the Lake School of Poetry No III Coleridge New Publications Daniel Defoe's History of the great plague in the year 1665 --- 8 vo 10s 6d November 1819 New Publications The 3rd vol of Messers Kirby and Spence's Entomology is in considerable forwardness Observations on Yellow fever in the West Indies by R. Dickenson 8s The Emigrant's directory to the Western states of North America by W. Amphlett 8vo 6s Don Juan --- Canto I II 9s 6d Don Juan --- Canto III 3s 6d December 1819 Review of "Ivanhoe" Constable Co 1820 Works Preparing for Publication Prometheus, A Poem, by Percy Bysche Shelley Works of Rt. Hon. Richard B. Sheridan now first collected and edited by Thomas Moore New Publications History of Brazil by Robert Southey [[underlined]] Natural History [[/underlined]] --- Report of the Linnaean society of New England relative to a Large Marine animal, or Sea-Serpent, 200 ft long, seen near Cape Anne, and in other parts of the American Seas, with a plate 4s. Under Births A poor woman, the wife of a labouring man named Scully residing near Bantry, was delivered of 4 children, 3 sons and a daughter, who are likely to live and do well.
[[insert of pre-typed page]] --2-- February 1820 On the writings of Charles Brochden Brown, and Washington Irving. "He (Washington Irving) is the sole author of the Sketch Book --- a periodical work no[[strikethrough]] t [[/strikethrough]] ^[[w]] in the course of publication at New York." A eulogy on the late king George III New Publications Dialogs in Entomology in which the forms and habits of Insects are familiarly explained. 25 Engravings ---- 12s Other volumes of Blackwood's Vol 52 1842-1843 October to March Vol 72 to 98 complete July 1852 to December 1865 Vol 51 1842 Vol 64 July to December 1848 Published by William Blackwood and Sons [[underlined]] Cornhill Magazine [[/underlined]] Vol I January to June 1860 to Vol XII (12) July to December 1865 Contains actual articles and poems. [[underlined]] Annual Biography [[/underlined]] and Obituary Vol I 1815-1816 Memoirs of celebrated men who died in 1815-1816 [[underlined]] to [[/underlined]] Vol XXI (21) 1835-1836 Different binding and make up in 1842 [[underlined]] Fraser's Magazine [[/underlined]] for town and country Vol LIX 1859 January to June to Vol LXII 1860 July to December [[underlined]] Quarterly Review [[/underlined]] 1845 only volume Published b John Murray [[end page]] [[start page]] [[insert of pre-typed page]] --3-- [[underlined]] British Quarterly Review [[/underlined]] Vol XVI August-November 1852 to Vol XLII July to October 1865 Discussion of arts and letters Review of Poems by Elizabeth Barrett Browning Poems 5th Edition 1862 Aurora Leigh 1859 Last Poems 2nd edition 1862 [[underlined]] Grenada Newspapers [[/underlined]] The St. George's Chronicle and Grenada Gazette 1815 No. 764 Wednesday January 4 1815 ^[[started in 1784]] Editorial on the Burning of Washington Letter dated November 23, 1814 predicts the dissolution of the Union as a result of the War of 1812 Port of Spain January 18, 1815 "Yesterday the sloop Esperance arrived here from Martinique. She left at St. Pierre an American privateer put there to refit, and another Republican privateer cruising off that port. This is a business which cannot fail to attract the early attention of our gallant Admiral on this station; who, we have no doubt, will dispose of this nuisance in its infancy." 1820; 1821; 1822; 1825 Pub. Wednesday and Saturday Grenada Free Press and [[circled]] Public [[/circled]] Gazette ^[[Weekley]] [[line from "Weekley" to "Public"]] Vol I NO1 September 7 1826 Grenada Free Press and ^[[Public]] Gazette in 1828 Vol II 1828 Vol III 1829 Vol V 1831 Vol VI 1832 This has part of Tom Cringle's Log Follow 1833; 1834; 1835; 1836; 1837; 1839; 1840; 1841; 1842 (last issued) St. George's Chronicle and Grenada Gazette Issued Saturdays 1843; 1845; 1846; 1847 1853 January 7, begins to be issued on Fridays 1856 Issued Saturday 1856; 1857; 1858; 1859; 1860; 1862; 1863; 1864 1865; 1867; 1868; 1869; 1870; 1871; 1872; 1873 1874; 1875; 1877; 1878; 1879; 1880; 1881; 1882 break '89; '90; '91; '93; '94; '95; '96; '97
[[insert of pre-typed page]] --4-- [[underlined]] Books on the West Indies [[/underlined]] or about them The English in the West Indies or The Bow of Ulysses James Anthony Froude 1888 Longman and Green Co If Crab No Walk Owen Rutter (Hutchinson--London) Ancestor Jorice W. J. Locke (born in Barbados) Librarians name Ruby Comissiong Book found there Through Oriental Gates Janes Saxon Childers (met him in Haiti) [[end page]] [[start page]] [[blank inner back cover]]
[[blank back cover]]
[[preprinted Notebook Cover]] Executive Notebook for Stenographers From [[strikethrough]] ^[[June 5]] 193^[[4]] [[/strikethrough]] To 193 W Gregg Ruled With Center Down Line A-10512 [[/preprinted]]
[[blank page]]
Monday, January 18, 1937 Spent most of the morning packing and weighing what we had packed. This is the first time we have had to pay any attention to weight and it is proving a little difficult. No matter what we do, we will have to pay excess baggage on the plane as we are only allowed 20 kilos (44lbs each free)- and this, because we have tickets to Miami. Were we going only as far as Kingston it would be 15 kilos (33 lbs) In the afternoon we took some things to the P.O. to mail. We started out just after a shower and were - at least I was - a little apprehensive lest we be caught in another. We couldnt agree on which direction the street cars were running so [[strikethrough]]we[[/strikethrough]] Dick gave up & [[insertion]]^we [[/insertion]] took a bus. This was hard on him, as he had 2 heavy alcohol tanks to carry. When we got to the P.O. we found we couldnt send one of the tanks as it was too heavy so we had to take it to the Horn Line & send it by freight.
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] years. It wasn't bad [[?]] [[?]]
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] woe this morning. [[?]] [[?]] was
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] January
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] no woman could but want
be nice to him (he is so irresistable!) [[remainder of page torn out]]
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]]
the island looks tidy & well kept. The prisoners seem to have [[remainder of page missing]]
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] proper messages, and [[page torn here]] was rammed by a larger
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] ship coming in the Bocas. From Huevos I we went to cha-
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] [[bottom of page]] much, I wasn't feeling [[missing]] so I didnt get up for breakfast.
I spent a lazy day reading & sleeping. Dick did some typing [[remainder of page missing]]
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] spite of his arm waving [[missing]] staring, in the dining room.
[[page was cut out of journal when acquired]] longer than I can.
I almost forgot to say how nice it is to have our radio again. The first program [[Remainder of page missing]]
[[Top of page missing]] him. We stopped at the Post Office and [[End page]]
bought some of the current issues. The [[part of page missing]] & 2 1/2d are partly pictorial--with [[remainder of page missing]]
[[partial page]] Dicks [[?]] arrived. Worked late on it -- poor
dear - my idea. I went to bed & sleep
Puerto Rico Monday, January 18, 1937 Spent most of the morning packing and weighing what we had packed. This is the first time we have had to pay any attention to weight and it is proving a little difficult. No matter what we do, we will have to pay excess baggage on the plane as we are only allowed 20 kilos (44lbs each free)--and this, because we have tickets to Miami. Were we going only as far as Kingston it would be 15 kilos (33 lbs) In the afternoon we took some things to the P.O. to mail. We started out just after a shower and were--at least I was--a little apprehensive lest we be caught in another. We couldnt agree on which direction the street cars were running so [[strikethrough]]we[[/strikethrough]]Dick gave up & [[insertion]]^we[[/insertion]] took a bus. This was hard on him, as he had 2 heavy alcohol tanks to carry. When we got to the P.O. we found we couldn't send one of the tanks as it was too heavy so we had to take it to the Horn Line & send it by freight.
we had tea - ice/cream - at Padins and then home. When we got home we began to talk of the possibility of my going home before Dick. It might save us money if we cant go to Derry to live. We can't know until we get to Jamaica. While we were having dinner this evening Mr Lee from Mayaguez came over to our table and took us both a little by surprize. We only exchanged a short greeting as his dinner was waiting. He ate with Mr Owry. Tuesday January 19, 1937 I felt rather "off my feed" today and was rather disgusted with myself because of it - of all times to begin feeling low! We spent most of the day packing and weighing our bags. It didnt help much to send things by mail as we still have a lot of excess baggage. However, mail is cheaper - I mean parcel post. About tea time the PAA office phoned
to say that we wouldn't leave as early as we had expected because of delay in the plane from Kingston getting to San Juan. That was o.k by us as we wouldn't have to get up so early. January 20, 1937 Got up about 7 -- went to Tavern for breakfast and said good bye to Mrs McDermott. Went back to room & waited for phone call telling us when to be at air port. It was about 10:30 when we got over there and after weighing our bags etc we took a walk around the air port. We saw the marine planes from St Thomas, which were there and saw one take off. I also recognized one of the pilots as [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] a young chap who was in Haiti with them Sept before [[last?]]--I do not know his name & have forgotten what Mr Barnes said it was -- about 12 o'clock the clipper came in, and we went aboard to have a look around. It seems fairly spacious -- not quite as much so as a Pullman -- and seems to
have a well stocked pantry. We heard passengers who got off the ship say that they did nothing, all the way over, but eat. About 12:30 we started. We left in a 10 passenger Commodore flying boat & there were only 2 other passengers. We had the rear compartment which has 2 couches, and I was very glad later on that the 2 other men had rushed on ahead of us and taken the 2 front compartments. Puerto Rico is rather a pretty island from the air, and it has some rather striking landscape. The limestone country is specially interesting. We flew up along the north coast to Aguadilla and then straight out over Mona passage. Dick saw Mona island from his side of the ship. It was very smooth riding over the ocean and it wasn't until we struck the coast of the Dominican Republic that it became
a little rough. As my first experience, I would say that I'm not too keen about flying. I'm a little too much of a worry wart. I wont say that I feel sick at the dips & rises but I find it gives me a tendency to belch. I felt better after I had eaten, but the coffee I took when we got off at San Pedro de Macoris didn't do much to help the cause. The circumstances surrounding our eating lunch would have been amusing had they not contributed to Dick's tummy upset. When we got in the auto to be taken to the other landing pier the head man seemed surprized that there were 4 people. I didn't think much of it except that I did notice there were 3 boxes (which later turned out to be lunch) marked P.A.A. on the floor of the car. Well we kept getting hungrier & hungrier and when we got off at San Pedro & they gave us doughnuts and coffee we wondered if that were all.
However, one of the other passengers got off at San Pedro and as soon as we were off the water on our way to Haiti the Purser brought us the previously mentioned boxes. Were we hungry & upset (partly from hunger) by this time! Dick couldnt eat his lunch, but I ate 2 sandwiches, 1 egg & an apple. Each lunch consists of 4 sandwiches, 2 eggs - salt & pepper -, a piece of cake and an apple. They are attractively fixed and [[strikethrough]] sh [[/strikethrough]] would have gone over big had [[strikethrough]]they[[/strikethrough]] we not been a little upset before we got them. [[underline]]Dominican Republic[[/underline]] The southeastern part of the Dom. Rep is very densely forrested and we flew over quite a large area which showed no sign of habitation. In spite of the forrest it looked rather dry. San Pedro isnt much of a town but it has a fairly nice Pan American Building, with a little garden, and nice clean rest rooms. We didnt stop here long. -- I doubt that it was the usual 20 minutes.
Shortly after we left San Pedro we flew over Cuidad Trujillo, we did not fly directly over the city, but about 1/4 mile out to sea. It all looked familiar - the Coamo River, La Fortaleza etc. - I didnt get to see as much as I would have liked as there was a dense rain cloud between the plane and land. Travelling became a little rough. From Trujillo to Haiti the vegetation gradually becomes more sparce, and finally gives way to arid regions which have what look to be muddy alkali lakes. To the north are towering mountains which are among the most grandiose of the West Indies. I believe there is more actual [[underlined]] mountain[[/underlined]] formation than on any other island. We passed over several of these mud lakes and each time I asked Dick to get up and see if it was ^[[insertion]] Lago de[[/insertion]] Enriquillo. In one instance I could hardly believe him when he said "no" as it was such an extensive
piece of water. However, when we got to Enriquillo there was no mistaking it, as the water was true lake blue and was by far the biggest body of water we had passed. I was on the look out for the coral colored cranes which inhabit the shores of the lake, but I guess it was too much to expect a flock to fly near the plane! [[underlined]] Haiti [[/underlined]] The valley thru' which the plane goes, on the way to Port-au-Prince, seems to be in a good state of cultivation, and roads [[strikethrough]]seem to be[[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] are [[/insertion]] fairly well defined. There seems to be a lot of cane grown there now. I looked for Mr Barnes sisal mill but could not find it. It didnt take us long to circle around and land. We were met at the plane by [[strikethrough]]agents [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] representatives [[/insertion]] for the various hotels, but we had already made up our minds to go to the Sans Souci so we did not have
to be persuaded in what to do. The agent told us that PAA would take care of our hotel bill so everything was hunky dory. We got to the hotel about 5:30 by our watches - 4:30 by Haitian time - and we ordered tea at once. We couldnt see Mr. Barnes, as the boy said he was sleeping, but we finally got tired of waiting, & sent up our card to say we were downstairs. He came downstairs in record time, and seemed genuinely glad to see us. We sat and talked until dinner time. Mr Aubrey was still with him, but for some reason had taken to drink so violently that they had to send him to the hospital. This was almost unbelievable - and at first I thought Ralph was joking - as Mr Aubrey was almost a teetotaler. I wonder if discouragement and lonliness could have had anything to do with it, as he seemed such a fine fellow. It really makes me
sad to think of such a thing happening to Mr Aubrey. Jack Ruane hadnt been any better about writing Ralph than about letting us know his whereabouts. Mr & Mrs Barker are now in Washington. He is with the Bureau of Plant Industry. Mr Barnes still plays tennis, but no cribbage. He looks well and has grown a moustache which makes him look different - maybe distinguished - but older. He is ever the perfect host. At dinner I noticed a man, at one of the tables, who looked familiar but I could not place him. All I could remember was that he was a frequent visitor to the hotel either from Jamaica or Dom. Rep. After dinner Mr Barnes brought him over and as soon as he said "Mr Matson" I remembered who he was. Dick had not met him before as Mr Matson came to the hotel [[strikethrough]] last [[/strikethrough]] year
before last when Dick was in the Dom. Rep. Mr Matson is with the telephone co. We also met Mrs Barnes after dinner. She seems very different from Ralph, & I would say is striving for a sophistication which she hasn't quite achieved - in this she reminds me of Louie - She is very interested in art, and black & white is her medium of expression. I find [[strikethrough]] it [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] her work [[/insertion]] a little severe & disembodied, but there is no doubt that she has a talent for expressing herself. It always seems to me a pity when an artist lives in a colorful country, like Haiti, and yet rejects color from their art. I hope she will change her mind about black & white - she didnt seem firm in her conviction that it was the only method for her. I should like to know Mrs Barnes better as she seems a most interesting person, and one can judge so little from only a few hours talk. We went to bed fairly early and
it certainly seemed more than early when the boy awakened us at 5 a.m. We were down to breakfast at 5:30 and off to the airport at 6. Ralph came down [[insertion]] stairs [[/insertion]] to see us off. [[strikethrough]] - Not [[/strikethrough]] It really wasn't necessary but just shows the type of person he is. We got off to a flying start at about 6:30 The air at that time of morning was a little nippy, and after we had been flying a while even the Purser remarked that it was a little chilly. The trip [[strikethrough]] ao [[/strikethrough]] out over the bay and along the island of La Gonave was uneventful and riding was smooth. La Gonave is very dry and uninteresting. There are some inhabitants as I could see their huts. It must be a poor place off of which to wrest a living. [[underlined]] Cuba [[\underlined]] As we neared Cuba the going got a little rougher. The air pockets seemed more numerous as we had a number of those unpleasant dips. I was glad to get to Santiago but disappointed in what we found there. The Pan American house
is the poorest of any we saw and there is no place for in transit passengers to sit down, nor any way for them to get to the rest rooms. We were to change [[strikethrough] ships [[\strikethrough]] crews here, so we had to wait for the ship from Kingston to come in with the crew which was to take us back. The captain who had taken us thus far objected to so much baggage and so many passengers - we later learned he had good cause - but the new cap. did not seem to mind. However our first purser tipped us off that we better get our seats as soon as the go aboard signal was given. The plane hardly holds 10 comfortably yet they put 15 in and expected us to like it. Dick could not lie down or stretch out. Just as we left Santiago the pilot gave us a slight fright by circling around as if to go back, but it was only to enable the passengers to have a last look at Cuba. With the plane as loaded as it was we wouldnt have been surprized had
he gone back to let off weight. It was rather cloudy & stormy over the ocean and we were almost upon Jamaica before we saw the land. [[underlined]] Jamaica [[\underlined]] The first glimpse we had of Jamaica were the breakers breaking on the north shore. It was very pretty. Then we turned east & followed the shore to Pt. Morant & Morant Bay. From Morant Bay to Old Harbour was the roughest part of the trip - there were several small boys on the plane who thought it great fun. We landed safely [[insertion]] about 12 noon [[/insertion]] and were passed thru' the customs in no time at all. We then went direct to the South Camp Road Hotel where we got a room without bath. We had lunch and after lunch went to see Miss Nixon at the J.A.A. She said she thought she could find a place for us at 3 guineas [[strikethrough]] a [[/strikethrough]] apiece week and I thought that rather cheap until I began to think it over. - Anyway she had
some mail for us, and we took it back to the hotel & read it until tea time. My but it is good to have mail once again. After tea I went over to pay the Magnus sisters a visit. Dick was still feeling a little upset so he didn't go. The sisters are all still up and kicking. The dont seem to have anyone in the house at present and they said they would take us for [[symbol for franc]] 5/10/ a week if we stayed less than a month, and [[symbol for franc]] 5/ if we stayed a month. For Ed they would charge 3 guineas. Of course this is better than having to stay at the hotel but still not as cheap as we would like. I made no definite arrangements. We had a nice visit and I got [[strikethrough]] home [[/strikethrough]] back to the hotel a little after seven. Dick greeted me with the news that they had sent a 3/ check for tea up with the waiter when he came for the tray. That annoyed us not a little. Before dinner I tried to phone to Caymanas Estates or the Bovells but discovered that they are not listed and there is no island telephone. I'm surprized at Jamaica
being that far behind the other W.I.'s We had dinner and went to bed fairly early. Friday January 22, 1937 Up betimes! Dick went to town but I stayed at the Hotel & wrote a letter to my family. Also read the paper and found our name in it twice. Dick came home a little before noon, and at noon Miss Nixon came to take us to see Mrs Wooler at 6 Cargill Ave. The place is nice and new and we would have a nice room and Ed would be there too. The rates for us were a little cheaper [[insertion]] [[franc symbol]] 5 [[/insertion]] and for Ed 3 guineas. This is regardless of how long we stay. We said we would let her know later. Miss Nixon took us back to the hotel. While having lunch, a bunch of not so hot looking tourists came in. There was also a bunch of Jamaicans - 2 very nice looking white girls and 4 disreputable looking men of color. We see a lot more of white girls with colored men on this island than on the smaller
ones [[strikethrough]] with [[\strikethrough]] after lunch we decided to try to find Mrs Bovell & Marjorie by going out to the Estates. We hired a car for 10/ to take us out and bring us back. We did a lot of running around to the various offices but could get no information regarding the Bovells. Finally we decided to go up to the house. When we got there we knocked & knocked on the front door but could get no answer, and at last I went around to the side door where I heard voices. Mr Bovell answered my knock and asked us to wait on the porch. In a little while Paul came out with appologies for his father's curtness and he said he would try to find his mother or Marjorie for us. He was not successful as a while later the chauffeur came up for Mr Bovell & told us that Marjorie and Mrs Bovell were in Kingston, so we decided to call it an unlucky day and go home. On the way home we decided to move from the Hotel this same
afternoon and go to the Magnus' - if they could take us. They could, so we moved. Saturday, January 23rd Our first plans were to stay with them [[insertion]] the M's [[/insertion]] until after Ed had arrived, but [[strikethrough]] on Saturday [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] today when [[/insertion]] we phoned Mrs Wooler to tell her we were not coming, - this at 8: 30 a.m - we were told that she was in town. Dick then went to the J.A.A and met one of the daughters and told her we were not coming, but it seems that Mrs Wooler had misunderstood. In order to clarify matters I made arrangements to go see Mrs Wooler this afternoon. It was just as well I did, as when I got home Irene told me they would have to charge an extra 5 shillings a week for tea. This would make our bill [[pound symbol]] 5/15 - almost [[pound symbol]] 6. Also Mrs Wooler had said that laundry would never be more than 1/6 apiece and I know my laundry at 6 Norman road would be above that. Anyway a shilling saved is a shilling earned,
Marjorie came by before noon and took us to town to see her mother. Mrs B is just the same hearty person she always was. We will be able to go to Derry & perhaps her other house in the country - she would even like to go with us. However we shall arrange that all later, after Ed arrives. I told the Magnuses we were going to Derry with Mrs Bovell - no need for them to know exactly what we are doing. Either I didnt notice it much before or else I was good natured about it, but we find we have little or no privacy here and Irene and Blanche are always giving us suggestions on what they think we should do. For some reason or other, unasked for advice grates on my nerves these days. I had a little headache this evening so went to bed early. [[underlined]] Sunday, January 24, 1937. [[/underlined]] Got up a little later than usual. Spent most of the day sitting around
and writing letters. In the afternoon walked around in the yard & had a good peek at Mr Hanna's residence - over the back fence. In the evening we were rather tired of sitting around so we went to the Palace to a movie. On Sunday they have only one showing - 8:30 - so that people can go to church before they go to the movie. We saw "Tudor Rose" or what is know in the U.S. as "Nine Days a Queen". It was good, but just a little too heart rending. Monday Jan 25. Dick went to town in the morning. I stayed home. It seems all we are doing is marking time until Ed gets here. We [[strikethrough]] cant [[\strikethrough]] [[insertion]] couldn't [[/insertion]] have the car until afternoon, so about 5, Dick went down for it. It was a much nicer car than I had supposed we could get for [[pound symbol]] 3 a week. After dinner we decided to visit the Edward's and went out to their old place at Hope only to find they had moved. However the gentleman
who is now in the house was very nice and told us how to get to their new house, which is nearer town. They now live near Matilda's Corner on the Old Hope Road (?) They bought a house and are remodeling it. Of course it is now in the course of construction. We found them both as pleasant as ever and they told us that they had just come back from their 8 months leave. Of course they were in France and they also went to Switzerland and the Tyrol. We didn't stay long as they were about to begin dinner when we arrived. After leaving them we went for a drive out to the Pan American air port at Harbour Head it was a nice drive and the car "went like a bird" (re there) January 26. Dick & I went to town for nothing much of anything, but he had to go to the garage. Dick bought some heavy wire and we spent most of the afternoon
making a net to go over the car. I was in a most lazy mood so Dick really did all the work. After tea we drove out to the Constant Spring Hotel, but didnt go in the grounds. It seems to get dark so quickly these evenings - and is so much more noticeable than on any of the other islands. In the evening we walked down to the Gaiety Theatre and on the way passed Oscar. He probably wondered why we were walking, as I had told him only that morning that we had a car. Later on I too wondered why I had suggested walking, as East Queen isn't as nice a street to walk on as it could be. We also did not know that street cars do not run after a certain hour and we might have waited all night had not a bus come along. While waiting we were accosted (Sp by 2 different taxi drivers who were very presistent. The latter began to give us a big song a dance about being a
Jamaican - as if that would interest us in getting in his car - and was so rude about it that another Jamaican who was also standing on the corner stepped up and told him to "cease being a nuisance or [[strikethrough]] he would [[/strikethrough]] [[insert]ion] I will [[/insertion]] call a policeman". The driver drove away still muttering that he was a Jamaican, [[insertion]] and a British Subject [[/insertion]] and this was his country. We saw the picture "These Three" with Miriam Hopkins, [[strikethrough]] Merel [[/strikethrough]] Merle Oberon and Joel McCrea. It was rather good. I had been afraid Dick wouldn't like it as he didnt care much for the last picture we saw. However his Journal says "not so bad". Wednesday January 27, 1937 Spent the morning packing, and we left the Magnus' right after lunch having paid 10/ apiece per day [[strikethrough]] for each [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] for the [[/insertion]] time we stayed. We could live in Haiti almost as cheaply as that. However, we may save money in other ways on this island. We went right out to Mrs Wooler's at 6 Cargill Ave
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John Blennerhasett Painter Jimmy Walker Miss Maggie Jones Helen Veruvan Miss Reese (Mrs B's M.noi[[?]] Phillida Hewitt Muriel Hellwig. Ivan Ascot Nethersole. Etta Levy [[grouped together in a bracket with the word Badminton]] Greta Gonzales Coxes Noel Vallerie Reerie Max Southby Girlie Hendry [[/grouped together in a bracket with the word Badminton]] Blagrove, Capt & Mrs Peter [[grouped together in a bracket with the words Miss Nixon.]] Ollen Miss Ella - Dennis Langdon [[/grouped together in a bracket with the words Miss Nixon.]] Dennis Gick. Mr &Mrs Dickinson (Mrs Edward's)
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[[image]] Purple stamp affixed to page with the following writing: 151775 United States Customs Service 193 Inspector [[/image]]
[[underline]] Monday, January 18, 1937 [[/underline]]
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