First Ladies Gowns - Mary Todd Lincoln, by Unknown, c. 1920s, Smithsonian Archives - History Div, Mary Todd Lincoln (1818-1882), wife of President Abraham Lincoln is dressed in a gown of royal purple velvet with a tight bodice and full skirt of the hoop-skirt period. The seams of the dress, skirt, and bodice, the hem of the skirt, and the bottom of the bodice are piped with narrow white-satin cord. The neck is trimmed with an elaborate fichu of black Alencon lace with a white edge, and a bouquet of pansies is placed at her bosom. The short puffed sleeves are made of white net and Alencon lace. The fan is purple taffeta, and a purple parasol, which was carried with the dress, was also displayed in the case. The gown is part of the First Ladies Collection now at the National Museum of American History..