Field Notes, 1873
Close
Request permissionsDownload image PrintUsage Conditions Apply
The Smithsonian Institution Archives welcomes personal and educational use of its collections unless otherwise noted. For commercial uses, please contact photos@si.edu. [[front cover - blank]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
May 17-18. 1873
Off Sannakh reefs & south of Unimak the water full of the spawn of cod. floating about six inches below the surface. May 31st 1873
Hog Id Capts. Bay appears to be composed principally of porphyrites The shoal water near the south end is a favorite haunt for sponges. June 1. 1873
I found a carabus at the Astronomical station today. See very few birds yet, and those do no appear to be nesting yet. June 4. 1873
Water full of a species of Mysis (no. ) in inconceivable myriads chased by large schools of a small fish (no. ) here called the Launce, which in turn afford a meal for the gulls & whales which we have observed chasing them in large numbers during the last few days.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
The rocks near the Eider village are lavas, red & black. The shore is shingle - in 25 - 30 fms muddy sand yet a number of marine invertebrates of which only a bullid is recognized as unfamiliar.
[[start page]]
June 19, 1873
Chichagoff. Harbor Attu.
Mya pike arenaria
Buc. cyaneum
Lit. Sitkana modiolaria
Acmaea pelta Argobuc..
"[[ditto for: Acmaea]] patina [[Placunani.?]]
Serripes Laperousii no Chrysod. lyratus
many sponges on beach.
A small black petrel, gulls, white bodied albatross, white grouse 2 sp.
[[Mormon?]], shags, Uria sp. seen.
No mice on island.
Plect. nivalis & lapponicus, several snipe,
[[strikethrough]] Anser Hutchinsii & nigricans. [[/strikethrough]]
Rocks have metamorphic slates very hard with some porphyrite intruded much contorted.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Attu birds
Plectrophanes lapponicus breeds
" [[ditto for: Plectrophanes]] nivalis [[strikethrough]] breeds [[/strikethrough]] resident
Melospiza insignis resident
Anorthura hyemalis var. [[alascesis?]] resident
Lagopus [[albus?]] resident
Corvus carnivorus resident
[[Halaestus?]] leucocephalus resident
[[Brachyotus?]] cassini resident
[[Mormon?]] cirrhata resident
[[Mormon?]] [[corniculata?]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
Thalassidroma furcata breeds
" [[Ditto for: Thalassidroma]] leachii breeds
Tringa sp: breeds
Uria comumba resident
Lanis [[strikethrough]] [[leucoptern?]] [[/strikethrough]] [[glanciscens?]]resident
Rissa? tridaclyla resident
Graculus sp. resident
Somateria V. - nigra breds
Snipe with white body & dark wings.
Bernicla nigricans breeds
Anser Gambellii - passes
Murres plenty -
Uria californica
[[end page]]
[[underlined]] Great Kyska Harbor [[/underlined]] -
√ Lobipes hyperboreus breeds
√ [[strikethrough]] Pelidna maritima [[/strikethrough]] " [[Ditto for: breeds]] Snipe like Attu sp
√ Anorthura hyemalis " [[Ditto for: breeds]] resident
√ Leucosticte greseinucha " [[Ditto for: breeds]] " [[Ditto for: resident]]
√ Plect. lapponicus breeds [[strikethrough]] " [[Ditto for: resident]] [[/strikethrough]]
√ " [[Ditto for: Plect.]] nivalis " [[Ditto for: breeds " [[Ditto for: resident]]
√ Lagopus albus. " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Haliaetus leucocephalus " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Falco gyrfalcon breeds ?
√ Larus glaucescens " [[ditto for: breeds]] resident
√ Phaleris antiquus " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Mormon corniculata " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ " [[ditto for: Mormon]] cirrhata " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Uria columba " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Melospiza insignis? " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Corvus carnivorus " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Brachyotus Cassini " [[ditto for: breeds]] " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Thalassidroma furcata " [[ditto for: breeds]]
√ " [[ditto for: Thalassidroma]] Leachii " [[ditto for: breeds]]
√ Somateria V. nigra " [[ditto for: breeds]]
√ Harelda glacialis " [[ditto for: breeds]]
√ Colymbus torquatus " [[ditto for: breeds]]?
√ Graculus sp. resident
√ Murres. Uria californica " [[ditto for: resident]]
√ Nettion carolinensis breeds
√ Haematopus niger. " [[ditto for: breeds]]
√ Brenta nigricans " [[ditto for: breeds]]
√ Rissa tridactyla
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
note that birds on ids where no rats or foxes build on shore rather than in islets as far as observed
Common umbelliferāe found in all islands. Fritillaria also no monks hood seen at Attu or Kyska. Chrysodomus liratus two dead much worn (? from cods stomach) found at Kyska, none at Attu.
[[image - pencil sketch of a cut away of landscape.]]
[[drawing labels]] syenite sds porphyrite W Shore Little Kyska [[/drawing labels]]
Coarse conglomerate about Kyska Harbor. Some of upper layers running into volcanic breccia, all materials volcanic but arranged by water, broken through by greenish eruptive porphyrites, some of which reach a height of 500 ft and topped by a syenitic rock eruptive, 300 ft thick in places & on W shore Little Kyska roughly crystalline in 5 sided prisms 100 ft long no evident dip. Sdstone 500 ft thick in general about level
[[start page]]
except where disturbed by injected porphyrite. At Attu rocks principally metamorphic quartzites much broken up & contorted, no sandstones [[strikethrough]] or porphyrites [[/strikethrough]] noticed.
At Kyska most of common Unalashka sponges seen but not common and poor specimens.
Placum unvoria [[?]] and rarely Argotuccinum [[?]] found here.
[[end page]]
[[top margin]] x seen or killed at Adakh [[/margin]] Amchitka Id.
--Constantine Harbor--
Birds seen & collected
Colymbus torquatus, abundant.
√ Nettion carolinensis - breeds
x√ Uria columba " [[Ditto for: breeds]]
x√ Mormon cirrhatus " [[Ditto for: breeds]]
x√ Mormon corniculatus " [[Ditto for: breeds]]
√ Ombria psittacula " [[Ditto for: breeds]]
√ [[strikethrough]] a small gray hawk [[/strikethrough]]
x√ a hawk like Kyska sp. gyrfalcon? [[gyrfalcon is written in ink over pencil]]
x√ Larus glaucescens
√ Anorthura var Alascensis " [[ditto for: breeds]]
√ Plectrophanes nivalis " [[ditto for: breeds]]
x√ [[strikethrough]] Finch like [[/strikethrough]] M. insignis
√ Snipe like Kyska sp. [[insertion]] T. maritima [[/insertion]]
x√ Lagopus albus breeds
√ Thalassidroma Leachii
x√ Graculus bicristatus
x abund Haematopus niger.
x√ Stercorarius sp.
x√ Harelda glacialis
√ Colymbus septentrionalis breeds
x√ Corvus carnivorus
√ Phaleris cristatella
√ Sterna macrura
√ Mergus serrator
x√ Somateria V nigra
x(√ Adakh. Plect. lapponicus)
√x Uria californica
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
See Placunanomia on beach and get a small shell of which I dont know the genus, as well as Cancellaria circumcincta
The rocks here are metamorphic or eruptive, the east side of the harbor consisting of low bluffs of a dark colored crystalline rock with enclosed black crystals no bedding and bluffs not over 60 feet high. The west side appears to be of a highly metamorphosed conglomerate, in similar low bluffs.
Chry. liratus rare
Argobuccinum not common
New mesalia-like scalaria.
Painted buccinum
Argobuc. abundant.
[[symbol for male]]
Length 6 ft
Girth in front of dorsal 3 ft. 9 in
" [[ditto for: Girth]]behind flippers 2 ft 2 in
" [[ditto for: Girth]]at anus 2 ft 3 1/2
1 Nib to corner of mouth 3 in 1/2
2 "" [[dittos for: Nib to]] eye center 7 in "" [[dittos for: Nib to]] ear 9 1/2 in
3 "" [[dittos for: Nib to]] ant flip edge 11
4 post 14
5 Middle line ant corner do.[[ditto]] perp. 5
√ Eye to spout hole "[[ditto for perp.]] 4 in
√ Nib """[[dittos for: to spout hole]] Long 9 in
between centers trans flip 5 1/2
[[image - sketch of a U shaped line rotated 45 degrees counter clockwise from vertical and labeled A at the top left terminus, B at the bottom middle and C and the top right terminus]]
√ A B 8 in
√ C B 5 3/4
√ A C 3 3/4
6 Nib to white color 2 ft 3 1/2 in
7 Spouthole to ant ft of dorsal 18 1/2 in
[[image - sketch of dorsal fin, appears to be a mountain shaped line over a horizontal line - triangle shape. Horizontal line is labelled A at left terminus, B at right terminus and label C is midway. Mountain shaped line has label D at peak which is midway]]
[[following three lines are to the right of the dorsal fin sketch:]]
DB 7 1/2 in
CD 6 in
AB 10 1/2 in
√ nib to ant end genital slit 3 ft 7 in
√ length of slit 3 in
√ do [[ditto for: length]] to anus 4 1/4
√ Anus " [[ditto for: to]] notch of flukes 22 3/4
√ Breadth of " [[ditto for: flukes]] AB 18 1/2 in
[[image - sketch of sea mammal tail flippers or flukes - porpoise from next page?. Label A is at end of left fluke. Label B is at end of right fluke. Label C is placed where flukes come together. Label D is placed where flukes join body]]
[[following two lines are placed to the right of the sketch:]]
CD 5 1/4
BD 11 in
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
narrowest pt of tail [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] 1 3/4 in
height at do [[ditto]] 3 1/2 in
length of eye 3/4 in
width of spout hole 1 7/8 in
upper edge of white to level of back 7 3/4
End of white behind anus 6 in
18 in long on belly
Porpoise killed out of a school of five or six in Adakh Straits Aug.13.73
width of head at inner corners of jaws 5 1/2 in
do [[ditto for: width]] of mouth same place 4 3/4 in
do [[ditto for: width]] of head at front flippers 8 1/2 in
Depth at 1 ft before flukes 10 in
[[strikethrough]] do [[ditto for: depth]] at an end of keel [[/strikethrough]] = widest part of keel
do [[ditto for: depth]] at 8 in before flukes 7 1/2 in
navel 7 1/2 in before ant end of slit
[[image - sketch of the front portion of a porpoise. The head of the porpoise is heading down to the bottom of the page. sketch includes mouth, eye, spout hole and two flippers. Text on page partly written over the sketch]]
[[start page]]
Bay of Islands Adakh
North part of the island near shore, apparently conglomerate and coarse sandstone, above of a reddish color like the burnt volcanic material seen elsewhere - near anchorage rocks trend NE & SW dipping in general to the NE. Metamorphic rocks for the most part with here & there frothy black lava of a basatic appearance but coarsely perforated like buhrstone.
[[end page]]
[[opposite page is blank]]
Cervicals, seven, soldered
Thoracic bearing ribs 14. (one lost?} 12 true ribs (pairs 4 pairs floating ribs
[[the following text is bracketed by a vertical line on left side of page with the label:]]
Out of [[tul? tnl? tail?]] { 41 vertebrae following + [[3?]]2 = 73 { 14 chevron + 16 = 30 chevron { 16 caudal vertebrae without { chevron bones = 46 in all { C7 [[10?]] [[limb?]] 41 - C. 46 [[/bracketed text]] 7 + 14? + 73 = 94 or 5
[[image - drawing of bones of sea mammal/porpoise pectoral fin, with small additional drawing. Small additional drawing label:]] terminal caudal
Strike another of this sp in Lat 50 N Lon 155 W Oct. 21.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[image - left profile drawing of sea mammal/porpoise with separate detail front drawing of tail/tail flukes.]]
Drawing labels:
[[near dorsal fin, which is marked with a dotted line:]] 5 very faint [[rugosities?]]
Eye blackish
on right side extra Teeth 18/25 visible (23/27 in all small, spade shaped
Color in general black, except white patch which is faintly streaked with very faint blk lines especially in the median line below
Atka -
the beds of stratified rocks on the north side of Nazan Bay on examination prove to be highly altered beds of conglomerate or breccia composed solely of volcanic materials nearly level, dipping slightly to the NW, and at least 500 feet in thickness. A more compact greenish flinty metamorphic rock with a similar dip but more contorted and intersected by dykes in many places is the material of which the south shores and islets enclosing the harbor are composed.
On the Korovinsky Bay side the North shore is composed of coarse volcanic breccia in nearly horizontal layers, dipping slightly to the [[strikethrough]] NWE [[/strikethrough]] Northeast and rising 1000 ft in height, above layers of ashes & solfataric clays, & cinders on the south side there is also a conglomerate composed principally however of porphyritic pebbles more or less rounded, and capped in the easter portion with the columnar syenite observed on little Kyska. Here on the beach are found fragments of silicified wood and other pieces converted into
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[image - drawing depicting land mass, left side marked with 'b' and vertical lines. Right side marked with 'a' and lightly drawn loops.]]
[[labels on drawing]]
b columnar syenite
a congolomerate [[/labels]]
lignite. The latter seems very scarce and these remains though not found in place appear to come from the upper surface of the conglomerate between it & the soil, holding a similar position to the fossil wood beds at Coal Harbor.
The solfataras are on the W side of Klucheffskaia Volcano Koni & Sarycheff volcanoes appear to have no existence but to be duplications of Klucheffskaria and Korovin.
The springs throw out but little water some are composed of mud & others are empty but steam issues forth with a roaring sound
They deposit white, red blue & gray clays. The grass grows close to the hot water but not more luxuriantly there than elsewhere.
The water contains sulphur & lime.
The Russians formerly had a bath & dwelling house for invalids here Temp 164° Fahr. The ground around them is a coarse gravel of ashes & cinders purely volcanic.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
Aleut whale names
Mungeeduk - large humpback
Aliàmuk small " [[ditto for: humpback]]
Cheédūk B Davidsoni
Agamákhchik Finback
Keegánagalūs Grampus
Chickagalŭk Bowhead
Kulámŭkh Right whale
Oomwólikh Sulphurbottom
A'galūkh Orca
Agadikhukh Sperm
Kudahtīkh Phocaena
Alālŭkh Puffing Pig - Alukh a whale any sp.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[image - drawing of whale with tall dorsal fin, Orca?]]
Pinnoctopus [[male symbol]]?
Total length 7 ft 7
Body to collar 1 ft 4
" " [[Dittos for: Body to]] base of arms 8 1/2
base arms to [[right?]] of web 1 ft 3 1/2
" [[Ditto for: base]] 1st (funnel) pair
Mouth to tip 5 ft 4
2nd pair 5 ft 10
3rd 5 ft 8
4th 5 ft 9
Cups on 1st pair (right)[[+? x?]] 101.
" " " " [[Dittos for: Cups on 1st pair]] left 300
" " [[Dittos for: Cups on]] 2nd " [[Ditto for: pair]] 178
" " [[Dittos for: Cups on]] 3rd " [[Ditto for: pair]] 178
4th 188
largest suckers 2 in in diam near edge web.
Funnel long 4
diam 2 1/2 - 1
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[Only one line of words on this page - located halfway down the page and lined up with the previous page line entry "Cups on 1st pair....":]]
a groove extends to middle of web
J. McK. Thompson reports
√ Cygnus americanus 3 killed at Sannakh in September
√ Philacte canagica winters abund
√ ditto Steller's eider
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Sitka
Boschniakia glabra dead in woods
Cabbages in bloom, abundant
Lituya Bay
Titmouse May 15
Yellow bird
Sandpiper
do [[ditto]] black breast.
Tardus nacrius
Passerculus savanna = sandwiche
Melospiza insignis
Brownbacked thrush
Dark sandpiper
Blackbreasted plover
Cormorant
Crow
Kittiwake
Larus glaucescens
Mormon corniculatus
" [[ditto for: Mormon]] cirrhatus
Hirundo bicolor.
Blackbird = magpie?
White winged coot
Old squaw
Diver
Uria columba
Brant (flying over.)
Strepsilas interpies
Aegialitis semipalmatus
Sciurus hudsoninus
Actodromus Bairdii
Pachypoma comes as far north as Nasse River
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Sitka flying squirrel
Arctomys pruinosus
Sheep
Goat
Black & brown bear
blk & gray wolf
Furseal
Otter.
Marten.
Mink.
Ermine.
----------------------------
Lituya Bay
rocks bottom of syenite & granite
quite massive & unstratified
next mica slates stratified
next clay slate with poor foss
then conglomerate ? miocene
--
Stratified rocks dip to NW from 75° to 15°
No signs of glaciation in the main basin.
Port Mulgrave
Strepsilas interpres
Aegialitis semiplamatus
Gull
Raven
Hawk
Brant -
Actodromas Bairdii
" [[ditto for Actodromas]] minutilla
Himndo bicolor ? Y
Crow -
Eagle -
Bubo birginianus -
Swans
Port Etches
Hirundo horcorum
Brant
Turdus Pallasi?
Wagtail
Shag
White winged coots
Rissa 3 dactyla
Larus glaucesens
Melospize insignis
[[strikethrough]] Corvus caurinus ?? [[/strikethrough]]
[[strikethrough]] Swans [[/strikethrough]]
Eagles
Turdus naevius
Middleton Id
Hirundo bicolor
Haematopus niger
Larus glaucescens
" [[ditto for: Larus]] brachyrhynchus
Rissa 3 dactyla.
Brant - young just out
Mormon cirrhatus eggs fresh
Diomedea brachyura.
Graculus Bairdii
Melospiza insignis
Stercorarius slate color.
Eider duck, breeding
skunk cabbage leaf
4 ft long two broad
stalk 4 1/2 in wide
Saxidomus common squalidus Desh
Mytilus Cal.
Sponges.
Tapis staminea
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[Paragraphs lines/brackets in left margin on both pages, and a vertical line down the middle of each paragraph. Last paragraph has an x through it]]
Kodiak
Charitanoff
Rock off twins (C.S.H.Ch) Str Hutchinson struck on it 1869.
Rock four miles East by N from middle pt of Marmot Id.
Anchorage on west side in
small bay, 22 fms water in the strait. This & Afognak open before the chart allows it when coming from the eastward
Anchorage & settlement in Alitak Bay Native name Akhiyak
Kaguyuk settlement in bay west of 2 headed cape & anchorage there - Alsentia on C S Ch.
Id of 2 headed cape longer to SW than on chart. Point W of it about 3 miles long.
No anchorage about the Trinity Ids
Old Harbor no settlement now
New 3 saints Bay = salmon fishery
one settlement East & another W of it
No Id of St Stephen seen on three occasions
No anchorage from ^[[insertion]] except in Kukak B. [[/insertion]] Cape Douglas to Takli Id. Good anchorage there where Russian ves-
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[top margin]] Coal in peninsula [[underlined]] (good) [[/underlined]] W of Takli Id [[/margin]]
-sels used to lie and goods from Katmai received by bidarra.
Very calm between Ugak Id & Kadiak - reef off SW end of Ugak three miles
Seal rocks N of Marmot Id have a long reef extending NE five miles & shoal water further
Uganuk Bay - Many islands on west shore, tolerable anchorage behind them & a settlem
Many rocks & little water in Sitkalidak Strait. Not enter large vessels
E side small bay in Northern Strait good anchorage on East side in 5 fms not so far in
as Russian [[anchor symbol]]
Straight between Govorutik Id & Afognak shoal & rocky but Urania went through
[[strikethrough]] Maksutoff in Steamer Constantine spent 28 days searching in vain
for Pamplona Rock.[[/strikethrough]]
[[Paragraphs on first page have lines/brackets in left margin, and puts an x with a vertical line down the middle of this page until last paragraph]]
[[strikethrough]] A northerly set between Cape
Cleare & the Barren Ids.[[/strikethrough]]
No anchorage in Kamishak Bay - many rocks - to be avoided.
a Rock awash half way between the north end of Shaws Id and the south end of Augustine Id.
At Iliamna portage - a good small bay well sheltered & with good anchorage.
All the bays north of this on the w side of Cook's Inlet, shoal & no anchorage - mostly dry at low water. No anchorage about Kalgin Island.
Very strong tides between E & W Forelands and above in the bay.
South by West from the North Foreland clears the rocky bank which is larger than on the chart.
Vessels can ascend the Knik River & carry six fms 15 miles from the entrance
No anchorage at Katmai except very exposed & [[strikethrough]] shoal [[/strikethrough]] rocky roadstead for Northerly & westerly winds.
No anchorage in Cold Bay
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Port Wrangel the next good harbor.
Do not attempt passage between Sutwik Id & the main - full of rocks.
Anchorage in Sukoom Bay near settlement is not good much exposed & rocky - esp. in E-ly wind
More Ids & rocks in Semidi Group than are laid down.
Good anchorage north of Tuliumnit Pt. or anywhere about Chignik Bay.
Good anchorage N of Mitrofania Id & the bays North of it
Also Kuprianoff Strait.
Also Beaver Bay N of Unga
From Portage Bay to river falling into Port Muller in 3 hours by natives
Small id in strait & pt west of Dolgoi Id near Belkofsky dry at low water - a bar between -
[[A line through the middle of all copy on left-hand page -- may be strikethrough?]]
Capt Hewitt
A rock nearly in mid channel between rocks 1st outside of Chagafka Cove & end of Woody Id
A little nearer Woody Id - breaks in heavy NW weather at WNW probably 3 fms on it.
Confirms rock NE of of Round [[lumpy?]] Rock.
Course for inner Harbor. Keep the Company's building on the wharf well open with a little bluff point just east of it in the starboard hand going in.
Woollys very badly in inner harbor - good holding ground.
ROcks off Marmot Id = whales?
Dogs on Chirikoff Id -
Copper silver &c at Iliamna
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Kadiak
Crows - 13 nests on one small tree Malina or Raspberry Strait a few about St Paul, winter geese.
Elsewhere only Yakutat, Eider & other ducks
Thrushes
Shags
Gulls
Kittiwakes
Natives believe ravens hatch out in their crops.
Hirundo horreorum
Nuphar [[admeta? ]].
Chignik Bay
Bluffs horizontal tertiary
sandstones slates & conglomerate
500 feet thick with fossil leaves
& very thin layers of lignite
Natica russa
Standella falcata
astarte like Semidi sp
Cardium blandum
"[[ditto for: Cardium]] Nuttallii
Tellina alternidentata
Mya praecisa
Turtonia minuta
Black Margarita
Litorina sitkana
& tenebrosa.
Macoma solidula
" [[ditto for: Macoma]] nasuta
Common " [[ditto for: Macoma]] small white thin smooth
Chry. liratus
Argobuccinum
Limpets very large
Naked mollusk
Purpura septentrionalis
Bread sponges yellow
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
Chiachi Ids.
Notes on Cypripedium
guttatum Smith.
Stem 2 or 3 leaves, hirsute 6 - 15 in
high. Flower 1 or rarely 2.
Leaves 2 - 4 in long, hirsute finely below
smooth above.
A single small bract at the base
of the ovary.
2 anterior sepals slightly separated
at the tips, light green with
streaks of maroon on edges
Posterior sepal large overhanging
with the outer side waxen white
the edges and occasionally the
nerves touched with dark claret
color. Inner side dark maroon
slightly mottled with light yellow
near the base of insertion and
there thickly set with fine stiff
outward pointing hairs
Petals small and hirsute at the base
like the last, then widening and
again attenuating toward the tip
which is enlarged rounded and
patulous like the "tail" of a butterfly.
Whitish at the base then white
mottled with dark maroon and
with a conspicuous white spot
on the rounded end, edged with
[[end page]]
[[start page]] grows on wet hillsides exposed to the sun -
maroon.
Lip large, pocket shaped, narrow
at the insertion, the inner edges
folding over one another in front
of the column and with a narrow
white reflexed edge nearly
all round. Median line behind
& below indented forming a raphe
which is raised on the inner side
and thickly covered with strong
thickset hairs pointing toward
the base of the column.
Reflexed portion of the lip pure
white. interior whitish. Outside
claret color more or less
mottled with greenish white
on the lines of nervation
Column stout, foursided at
the base, rounded above
stigmatic part hoof shaped
rounded on the edge & with a
keel behind. Two small rounded
short hornlike stamens bear
each a 2 celled anther of very
gummy pollen keeled below
rounded in two kidney shaped
lobes above incurved, & notched
in front - golden yellow behind
above & below white in front
and dotted with specks of maroon
column greenish white. Note flies
Chiachi Ids
Note well made grouse nest
11 eggs & nest of magpie young
fledged, roofed over & lined, of
sticks in bushes.
[[strikethrough]] See yellow bird. [[/strikethrough]]
[[strikethrough]] brown finch. [[/strikethrough]]
[[strikethrough]] Mel. insignis [[/strikethrough]]
Pass. sandwichensis
gull
eagle
coots
shags
magpies
grouse
[[strikethrough]] [[Seiurus aurocapillus]] [[/strikethough]]
Zonotrichia coronata
Myiodioctes pusillus
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Rocks Miocene sandstones
and conglomerates, some a breccia
of sharp small fragments, in
places with vegetable remains
and often much metamorphosed
& everywhere greatly
contorted - core, sienite
outflows of reddish lava
& burnt sandstones & conglomerates
in great masses in some localities
[[Table with 3 columns follows, [[|]] used to mark breaks between separate columns; note that not all fields are filled in at each entry:]]
[[no column name given]] [[|]] Angle [[|]] Bears [[|]] 0 1 [[|]]
1 Middle cove [[|]] 0.0 [[|]] S31 1/4
2 Pt [[|]] 11.16 [[|]] 42 1/4
3 W end Id [[|]] 15.50 [[|]] 47
4 E "[[ditto for: end]] Id [[|]] 24.43 [[|]] 56
5 Pt [[|]] 31.15 [[|]] 62 1/4
6 Begin. lowland [[|]] [[|]] [[85 ?]]
7 Rks. [[|]] [[|]] 109
8 Pt [[|]] 80.45 [[|]] 111
9 Pt & rocks [[|]] 91.16 [[|]] 122
[[strikethrough]] 9a Pt [[/strikethrough]]
10 end hills behind lowland [[|]] [[|]] 131 1/2
10a Pt [[|]] 130.00 [[|]] N341
11 end shore bluffs N349
12 N end Id [[|]] 137.46 [[|]] 349
13 [[Top?]] Id & m. river [[|]] 151.43 [[|]]2 3/4
14 S end Id & sharp Pk [[|]] 160.59 [[|]] 12
15 E Hd Bay & next Head 1 [[|]] 199.18 [[|]] 50
16 N end id [[|]] 178.40 [[|]]
17 S "[[ditto for: end]] id [[|]] 200.29 [[|]] 51 1/2
18 [[blank line]]
19 NE end Mitroph [[|]] 208.20 [[|]] 59
20 Cave Mitroph [[|]] [[|]] 61
21a [[|]] 216. [[|]] 67.1/2
21 NW pt "[[ditto for: Mitroph]] [[|]] 218.16 [[|]]
22 N edge Id & ⊙ rk [[|] 221.52 [[|]] 72 1/2
23 S " " [[dittos for: edge Id]] [[|]] 234.34 [[|]] 85 1/4
24 SW end Mitroph [[|]] 239.30 [[|]] 90
25 "[[ditto for: SW]] Hd anchor. [[|]] 230.42 [[|]] 81 1/3
26 Pt Id. [[|]] 227.38 [[|]] 78 1/2
27 Astr. Δ. Vert.-11°.13'. [[|]] 251.58 [[|]] S253
28 Pt of beach -8°.25. [[|]] 233.37 [[|]] S 264 1/2
29 Pk 3°.17'.30 [[|]] 243.53 [[|]] N 94 3/4
30 Pk 15°.00'. [[|]] 290.50 [[|]] S 322
31 Δ on hill. 72 LC [[|]] 122.30 [[|]] N 333 1/2 vert 6°.
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[image - map with form lines (approximate contours) marked with numbers 1 - 30 and small triangle, presumably corresponding to table on facing page]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
To last Δ 61(2LC) S62W 280°.30
Rks (7) 326°.16' S107 2/3
(6) 305.00 S81 1/2
8 328.36 N290
9 339.41 S121.
10a 19.50 N341 1/2
11 28.35 [[strikethrough]] 348 [[/strikethrough]] 349 1/3
spit 342.34 N304
spit Id 26.05 348
N Bluff 32 41 354 1/2
S " [[ditto for: Bluff]] 53.30 15
sm Id N 85.36 47 S 92.06 53 1/2
Edge Pt 109.12 70 3/4
EHd Harb 90.17 52
Rk off Id 113.33 75
N pt " [[ditto for: Id]] 120.80 82
W " " [[dittos for: pt Id]] 127.05 88 1/2
N W Mitroph 150.00 91 1/2
S pk. 157.43 99
N pk. 184.10 146
N E [[Mili]] 98.47 60 1/2
[[Ast?]] Δ 118.25 S260
[[line across entire page]]
1st pt Δ 2nd Pt ESE 3rd SSE
Δ on beach SW by S end beach S by W [[Inner?]] rks NW by W
[[image - small drawing]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[image - page is filled with hand drawn sketches of several landscape views. Second from top/bound edge of page is marked with a triangle, and compass directions ESE and SSE]]
Pribyloff Ids
St Paul.
Very bare of mollusks.
fragments of
Buc. glaciale, & cyaneum
Serripes gronlandicum
" [[ditto for: Serripes]] Laperousii
Placunanomia macroschisma
Saxicava arctica
(Small & rare) Machaera patula
Chry. terebralis [[image - small ladder-like representation]]
Crepidula grandis
Tellina alternidentata rare
Purpura septentriomalis
Littorina sitkana & subtenebrosa
Mactra falcata
Mya truncata & praecisa
Pecten common sp.
Modiala modiolus
Cardium - fine ribbed (blandum?)
Acmaea patina or testudinalis
Stunted Chy. fornicatus.
Helix columbianus?
Succinea
Planorbis
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
Port Moller
Rocks ^[[insertion]] Cretaceous [[/insertion]] & Tertiary sandstones overlying
porphyrites & intercalated with intrusive basalt which also forms the tops of the mts when not entirely tertiary.
Shells
Zirphaea
Cardium Nuttallii Lacuna & blandum purpura
Macoma red inconspicua Shiny like " [[unclear what is being dittoed]] Edulis
Natica russa.
Machaera patula.
Margarita pupilla.
Mactra falcata
Diplodonta? Chry liratus
Birds shags, Mes. polaris
gull, num
Kittiwakes, num
Knobbilled eider.
Whitewinged coots.
Sterna macrura - num
seal.
walrus.
bear.
deer.
Wolfs Ermine
Sperm. Parryi
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Hot spring. Sulphur & lime
Temp. 157° Fahr
St. George.
Astarte Mytilus
Saxicava arctica
Cardium grönl.
Mactra falcata.
Pecten
Tellina venulosa = alternidentata
Macoma sp.
Mod. vernicosa.
Purpura septentrionialis
Crepidula grandis & sp. indet
Chry. terebralis
Marsenia
Acmaea sybaritica.
" [[ditto for: Acmaea]] patina.
" [[ditto for: Acmaea]] var peramilis
Margarita like helicina
Scalaria grönl.
Rhynchonella
Litorina
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
Sandman notes
[[Tygoe?]] Id 100 ft high - 4 miles ESE true, breakers in bad weather
E Peregrebnoi Id = Wossnessensky Id settlement on NE cove - Islet off N & east heads of this cove. Rock one mile from & between S & E pts Shape incorrect on chart
South ends Dolgoi & Poperetchnoy Ids same lat. abt 55°.01' - both bold S of first 1 1/4 miles true a breaker. (Capt Lennan) Same lat ESE true from 2nd another breaker 6 1/3 miles E true from [[last ?]] S by E true from 1st 4 1/2 miles = Johns Rock small islet with a breaker just south of it. E by S true from this, Olga Rock five miles, abt 20 feet high 13 & 15 fms 1/2 mile N & E
Sushitnoi Id 100 ft high on the S end gradually [[word "lower" overwritten by word higher ? or vice versa ?]] toward the N. When it bears W.SW true an arch is seen in the S end
Saranoy, on the north end a considerable hill, a small do [[ditto for: hill?]] on S end, full of rocks between this and outer Iliasik or Iliakik. Between Poporetchnoi & Peregrebnoi are a considerable number of low rocks The first is high, south cape high & bold
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
and apparently no hidden dangers
Dolgoi high except in middle, water deep close in, no dangers visible.
Goloy high & capes bold except West Cape which makes off in a sand spit with 15-17 fms gray sand within 1/4 mile
Outer Iliaksik, two considerable mts connected by high land, south end tapering down a considerable distance
The north side more bold except in the strait where is a sand beach
The islets to E ward of this Id are low with a reef surrounding them. When bearing SSW true they are all in a line
Inner Iliaksik or Iliasik also composed of two mts. connected by low land. The south part is the bigger and higher the S cape high & bluff, the N end slopes down. off the adjacent ends of the 2 Iliasiks are some rocks, one below water on each side but they break except in dead calm.
Good [[anchor symbol]] in strait, gray sand.
From N end of Inner Iliaksik a long reef extends nearly to the main land with 6 ft [[out it? until?]] & a passage close to the main with 10 ft at low water
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
Cape Moss runs out in a sand spit with 12-16 fms 1/4' off shore From thence to Pinnacle Rock, Coast high + bold but temporary [[anchor symbol]] everywhere.
At Belkofsky [[anchor symbol]] soundings regular gray sand, good holding ground
Belkofsky Cape SW & the Companys shore WNW by compass 10-12 fms a very good place
Oleny Id high & peaked running out in some places in NW capes. Off sandspit & North cape temporary [[anchor symbol]]
The coast opposite is high, bold & deep close in
Lisy Id nowhere over 100 ft high rocks off the north side
narrow passage between Oleny & Lisy clear of dangers. Coast from Tonki cape to Tachilnoy very low bottom soundings gray sand & shells.
Have seen most of the rocks &c inside dotted circle, positions not certain but all there.
At Belkoffsky flood tide runs S ebb north rise abt 6 feet; HW full moon about 12 oclock. Lat 55.0.3 Lon 161.5.7
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Can pass close to Johns & Olga Rks on N side. There is a rock which breaks in heavy weather NNE by compass from NE pt Sannak Harbor 1 1/4 miles off
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
Notes
St. Michaels.
Old boathouse in with Stepanoffs house
2 1/4 fms [[superscript]] half tide [[/superscript]] - 600-700 yards off shore.
Half way from Sledge Id to Cape Nome a spot of colored water seen. Natives assert that rocks exist there.
Reef off elbow of Pt Spencer. The Carlotta struck in 1871 in 13 ft and in 72 Eustace struck outside of this in 9 ft - rocky about 1 3/4 mile off shore. Winter houses on the beach. abeam, running the coast. Shoal near Cape Thompson in 9 ft.
Shoal about twelve miles south of Nunivak with 2 1/4 fms on it & 11 fms inside.
Shoal said to be to the S-east of St Laurence with about 14 ft out of sight of land.
[[strikethrough]] Shoal off [[/strikethrough]] Wainright inlet S point extends further off than charts give say 1 1/2 miles. Several vessels been ashore
Dont want to go inside of a line Cape York on with N Head of Port Clarence. Bay here with rocks Brig Pfeil lost here
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[image - sketch of shoreline; marks on drawing include 7 8; 2 or L or Z?; B; 0? 2]]
[[label on drawing:]]
tides 4 ft
Sun Golovin
anchorage 1/2 mile wide -
Small changeable shoals in mouth of Grantley Harbor, not desirable to go in. narrow entrance.
a shoal point making off NW end of Choris Pena, further than the charts give, with shoal water in the bight.
anchorage in 2 1/2 - 3 fm
Can go ten or 12 miles into Escholtz B further than chart gives & carry 3 fms.
Shoal off Pt. Hope with 12 ft. said to be further off shore than charted.
In spring a bight in the ice toward
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
Mt Fairweather N. 88 1/2 E
A 165° 11' 20"
B 11 30
Cape Phipps - high water mark - S 56 1/4 W
A 312° 41' 40"
B 41 40
Magnetic Mark N. 77 W
A 0° 02' 40"
B 180 03 00
Mt. St. Elias N 66 5/8 W
A 8° 55' 00 B 55' 20"
1st Mountain East N 39 1/2 W
A. 37° 38' 00"
B. 38 00
2nd Mountain East N 27 W
A 49° 58' 20"
B 58 40
High Mt still east N. 5 W
A 77° 35' 20"
B 35 40 do do [[ditto for: High Mt still east]] N.
A 76° 58' 20"
B 58 [[overwritten 4 [[/overwritten]]20
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Observations on Mountains [[strikethrough]] Fairweather[[/strikethrough]]? Mt?
A 148° 44' 20"
B 44 00 N. 71 3/8 E
[[strikethrough]]Fairweather?[[/strikethrough]] Mt?
A 161° 33' 00"
B 341 32 40 N 84 1/8 E
Stet [[strikethrough]] Mountain next East [[/strikethrough]] N 84 1/2 E . 1/4?
A 161° 53' 20"
B 53 00
Magnetic mark
A 0° 02' 00"
B 2 20 N 77 1/4 W.
Mt St Elias N 66 3/4 W.
A 8° 54' 40"
B 54 40
Double Zenith distances on
Mt St Elias (Vert 0) A B 0 0 0 179. 59. 15 174. 44. 00 6 reps 164. 12. 40 344. 13. 00 6 reps 328. 24. 55 148. 24. 25 6.reps 132. 35. 25 312. 35. 55 6.reps 296. 48. 00 116. 47. 25 6.reps 100. 59. 20 280. 59. 35 6.reps 265. 11. 20 85. 10. 45
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
Verticals on Mt 2nd NE of Mt St. Elias A B 0 0 0 179.59.15
6 reps 163.01.20 343.01.50
[[strikethrough]] 6 reps [[/strikethrough]] 0 0 0 179.59.15
6 reps 163.01.35 343.01.55
Vert on Mt. Fairweather A B 0 0 0 179.59.15
6 172.31.30 352.31.45 0 0 0 179.59.20
6 172.30.25 352.30.45 0 0 0 179.59.15
6 172.31.35 352.32.05
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[blank page]]
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
[[blank page]]
[[back cover - blank]]