Journal - California, undated
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The Smithsonian Institution Archives welcomes personal and educational use of its collections unless otherwise noted. For commercial uses, please contact photos@si.edu. Continued fr spll bk. trip fr Escondido 2 San Fran.
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Came 2 hill t seem'd 2 b n motion - whole surface moving seperatg & coming 2gether as if earthquake cracks & cleavg's b nearer it w a flock of sheep.
A vaquero (vah ka'row) - Big burly Mex wi red hkf rd /oat & hat brim over his eyes - walkd slowly along after /em wi dog at his heels.
/ way / fog comes n betw mt ranges s very singular.
On our st / near range w brown fr back o it below / top o / range bk o it w what lkd li cloud dropping into / valley.
N a barley fld w a large [[page torn]] [[ustard?]] patch & over /is a [[page torn]] o blkhds w flyg.
[[page torn]] [[er?]] along 3 sets o 4 mule teams [[page torn]] [[g?]] plough on side & wi [[page torn]] ridg sidewise on mule [[page torn]] very foolish.
As / grain flds w close 2 / R.R. /re & / plough h furrd betw / fld & / track, S conclud'd t /ey w afd o fire (h since seen a/c o gt loss by fire n wheat flds at 7 Palms or near /re.
Pass'd ano/er band o sheep - /re wi heads down keep'g out o sun [[arrow]] /ose on outer row lifted /eir heads as w passed, b / o/ers did x seem 2 notice us.
N passing mustard I saw scattd groups o red wings wi bright scarlet epaulets t.n fly'g down - w raisd alm li ruff - lkd very rich & beaut.
Spaniard on car. small /in man w very light clo/es wi large squares. He w a slippery [[page torn]] man wi dark olive skin & [[page torn]] moustachios. As he went out he slung a grip over his shoulder.
On / outskirts of Santa Ana [[superscript]] [2] [[/superscript]]
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I saw a man ploughing
[[boxed]] May 14 [[/boxed]] As w approached S.A. w see a town o eucalyptus spires, & it opens out into a place much li Riverside - full o vineyds, orchards & shade trees. Saw a horse car drawn by a complacent mule horse trickling down / st.
Saw ploughing, mowing, & stackd hay, b n sight over / town [[strikethrough]] 2d [[/strikethrough]] snow lay ov / mts.
North fr Fullerton f a long [[image: arrow]] distance / air over / mustd w astir wi butterflies (red mostly) /re must h b 1000's o /em.
Girl fd by fa/er n Los Angeles depot alone n tears. Said he fd her "n awful pickle." H crossed town all rt b h baggage 2 check & 2 get on train.
Said 1/2 pouting 1/2 cryg - girl 5 ft + & stout n proportion o 20 + yrs - "I xpectd 2 b tak [[page torn - taken care?]] o". I /ink it a [[page torn -ruse?]] [[superscript]] [3] [[/superscript]]
bus 2 lk after baggage."
H f east 3 - 4 times b did x know eno 2 do t! Said man rude 2 her. I wantd 2 tell her what Fran says - f x man will b unless girl lets him.
At L.A. depot I w going n 2 dining room past bar a little ahead o mo/er. Saw wi/out lkg at /em men talkg ag wall & one start 2 come forward. I put nose n air & started frigidly past when he came up 2 take bag etc while we dined - dining room official - nose came down! / girl h weak mouth & fat weak chin & w dressd 2 much f cars.
A superficial kindhearted foolish uninterestg girl. N speakg o Pasadena said "I'm sorry I did x take t n. Its one o / sights & I mi just as well"! Said "it made her mad" t she w x taken care o. [[superscript]] [4] [[/superscript]]
Ga paper 2 read & returned later - "/ paper's full o deaths. I wd n't lk at it af f any/ing." Born n San Fran b h l 2 S. Deigo & said 'wd just as soon live /re except f /eater. /re w [[underlined]] x [[/underlined]] /eatre /ere"!
H box wi 2 horned toads. Said ga /em meat so as x 2 h 2 kill flies f /em - cd x bear 2 gi /em 2 toads alive. [[underlined]] B [[/underlined]] wore hat turban made o fea/ers - solid & wi sev hummgbds n front!
FMo/er met her at San Fran - x Oakland. Plump, yg, fashionable woman wi good heart. Fa/er fat German wi kind b ra/er weak face. X o/er daughter b sev sons - Uncle weak face much li girl. Foolishness xplained. Mo/er talks ab sign n crossg hands & so o marriage o daughter.
Pass /ro canons & near mts wi 1000's o yuccas bloomg - all shapes. spindle, brisly, [[superscript]] [5] [[/superscript]
etc. Yellow bells n sunlight beautiful. Xquis flowers - so unique - gt stalks o lux bells. 1000s o /em along / hillsides - dozs n place. /en when we came 2 / desert we fd a most singular growth t / porter declard w cactus. b t lkd & li palms. / desert strtchd far on ei/er side o us, away 2 distant lines o mts. flat stretch . low scattd tufts o green & bunches o sage - brush & scattd ab w / cactus fr 8-20 ft high, n all varieties o grotesque forms, fr straight clubs - / lower part o brown shaggy scales [[image]] & / top a brush o green - 2 perpendic stalks wi crook'd elbows hang'g fr fork on ei/er side, & [[underlined]] trees [[/underlined]] wi branches at all curves & Ls, a singular network o elbows. O/ers r made up o clubs & prongs wi / /ick spike o flowers - whitish n bud [[superscript]] [6] [[/superscript]]
/ey lkd fr / cars - at / tip o / green brush (li prolongd pine needles) / grotesque forms o / branches seem'd as if / wood or pulp, whatr /ey r made o - w so weak it cd x support a perpendic or ord branch.
[[image- drawing of forked cactus with flowers]] move this rt fork 2 left 2 make narrow V
/se stump lkg figs seen ab / sage brush dott'g / long stretch o desert & seen ag / far mts on wh a blk cloud /ro wh / sun w draw'g water. Unique landscape.
Man on cars selling big blk Cal cherries. N mid o desert we came 2 a big church wi high spire - Lancaster - x 2 doz houses - desolate - wind blowg dust n sts - aspens shiverg - x cultiv - sage brush alm 2 door o church. Only bird I saw close eno 2 identify on / desert w a meadow [[superscript]] [7] [[/superscript]]
Going up 2ward / Loop it grew cold & n / moonlight ag a white cloud / mts lkd alm white & wi / gruesome cactus forms & / loneliness it made a dreary picture.
We saw little o / Loop as / moon w mostly hidden. /ey say t / engineer w discouraged - cd get x faster, when his son suggestd t he come [[underlined]] under [[/underlined]] / road, & t he took up / idea & carried it out. As we w going /ro / most dangerous part / surgeon o / [[symbol- division]] came along & by tellg us n solemn tones o / serious accidents t h happd /re & along / route. Ab girl burned 2 dea/, & o/er cheerful details. Odd char. retired broken down Oakland M.D. gone into speculation - 1000s o acres o cheap land - h 80,000 n one tract f sale & position o surgeon o [[symbol- division]]. Intrs'g 2 see professional airs - ordering porter [[superscript]] [8] [[/superscript]]
2 get pillow f yg lady who s sick - certain profess. consciousness t s very amus'g. Talks w profess solemn tone & turns sentences as if fr a book. X [[underlined]] pugnacious [[/underlined]] nose. f x-2-b-putdown /ick set stubby member - a li / bull dog order. Wife finer grain & wi fresh bright kindly face. Puckers mou/ when leavg case 2 husb - wifely pride: "he will know what 2 do!" Talks ab west seemg uncivlzd 2 easteners & [[a/c?]] what s 2 b done wi what h b done. /ick crop of brown hair touched wi gray, long scraggly beard. High cheek bones, ra/er broad forehd, eyes deep set & kindly, b gi 2 lkg [[underlined]] x-at-u [[/underlined]], fr selfcons sake /an any/ing else - a /otfulness fo descriminating terms, admir'g own eloquence etc. An Amer. who pushes his way /ro / wld, wi success.
O/er man on train genuine metal. Old patriarch o giant mind n [[superscript]] [9] [[/superscript]]
appearance. Big head wi high forehd fringd wi white hair - short white beard encircling all face - whole head set w white hair.
Much furrowed face wi strong features. [[image - pen sketch of man's face]] Lines o /ot carvg fr wrinkles by eye up ad 2 forehd lines.
Gray meditative eyes, stout nose & mou/ t fr being merely firm, n /at s reduced 2 line wi puckery " " lines fr upper lip - a balancing judicial mouth.
A look n eyes as if solving philos problems. Mi b old judge or philos. Woman wi him - daughter perhaps - blk hair fat & 30 - big brow b unscarred by /o't - fair & simple as bland mg - abs contrast. He x pure reason phil - humor lines & human interest shows 2 much n face.
2 Salv army lunatics on train were sing - o/er pray g - bo/ on way [[superscript]] [10] [[/superscript]]
2 asylum. Comments o passengers nclind 2 b harsh.
Got 2 Lathrop n time f brkfast - supper at Mohave - Bridal couple on train walkg at La/op. Pretty yg woman & spirituelle yg husb w light-blue eyes & li hair. Beaut xpress w talkg 2 her - period o idealization. Playful stage wi each o/er. li children 2ge/er. As near S. Fran seem 2 grow older - prob ab 2 begin life n earnest - leaving behd some/ing takg up serious life - b 2ge/er - t gi beauty. Mrs Winaut, bright, happy, wholesome, plump little woman.
Country + interestg - i.e. +richer n trees [[insertion]] ^ & water [[/insertion]] /an far/er south. San Joaquin Valley rich. Wheat fields fr after Loop till partly /ro rng. Go rd 2 Benicia by [[fery?]] & so 2 Oakland. & S.F.
Mustard brighter yellow north /an now at south. [[subscript]] [11] [[/subscript]]
801 Leavenworth St.
San Francisco May 29
/ time h passd rapidly since we came here. I spent / 1st week doing necessary shopp'g etc. & getting Twin Oaks schedules & Auk paper done.
W much disapptd [[strikethrough]] w [[/strikethrough]] x being able 2 see Mr. Bryant & his collection f it left a number o ?s unansd. By studyg Cooper's Bds o Calif, & Baird Brown & Ridgway, & Cones Bds o / N.W. I got / most I cd / t w eminently unsatisf ty U apprect / newness o / field when u try 2 find any/ing on a given bd.
Helen came wi Uncle Wallace a wk ago & shard my room till yesterdy when fa/er took her back 2 Oakland. / mg she got here I took her down & we lk'd /ro / Aud. plates - how few western bds r n /em! - [[superscript]] [12] [[/superscript]]
& left her n / library while we went 2 / Raymond & Maitcomb offices 2 sign our tickets. Took her fr /er /ro Drasdorfi, Morris & Kennedy's picture store where we saw a beaut de Haas - a dark threatng sky, toss'g a boat & a sudden gleam - a pa/ o warm red light on / water fr a break n / clouds t shows / dead yellow sun a buoy \ catches / light n / foregd +d strength 2 / effect - a good devise f lit.
Went /ro Deakins beaut store & w shown /ro picture gallery n / rear. Saw picture by Dotti_ a noble wi / peasant he b md_ x gt idea b faces well charactzd & [[underlined]] textures [[/underlined]] remarkable. [[?]] sketches b sketchg n / Santa Cruz Mts. Artistic drawl Lack o verve, b high forehd. hair [[superscript]] [13] [[/superscript]]
li H's clear gray eyes & sensitive face. Says docs x li 2 paint gutters - x li realism o day. N P.M we went wi Fa/er 2 Pavillion & / dog show - saw noble burly mastiffs - St Bernard, & beaut Irish setters. Helen went up 2 dogs fearlessly x matter how wildly /ey w barkg & jumpg 2 get out.
Esquimaux dog wi wolfish yelps - hoppd up wi fore ft. pulled down by chain. Dog - setter - ga H [[insertion]] ^ [[rfed?]] [[/insertion]] paw - kind gentle eyes. Boys sittg wi /ir dogs. Men & woman trottg /ier dogs rd circle si sawdust f inspect o [[insertion]] ^ judge [[/insertion]] dwarf-humpback lame - queer bus. of men. Faces o men & boys hard li horse men.
Hens, geese, turkeys, pigeons etc & o 2 uproar.
Next day - Friday mg - we [[superscript]] [14] [[/superscript]]
went down 2 Leibers where Fa/er got me a sealskin sack & muff. /en nto Shievrs where man lkd scornful when I askd ware - o royal Worcester: /en on 3d st cars out 2 Silver St kindergarden
A large buildg gi by Crocker 2 his daughter who gi rent o $50 a month 2 / school. It s / best n / city - 43 here & n Oakland. / down stairs room s large & full o open windows. A dado o pictures, animals, children etc ag / terra cotta paper makes cheerful - x high art - b room full o pictures o / kind children enjoy. Children tot 2 march on black line 2 music - sing song ab keep'g hd up, toes out, etc & teachers scattd along line keep orderly & speak 2 /ose t forget - alw kindly - [[superscript]] [15] [[/superscript]]
"xcuse me, dear" on going n front. "Willie, will u please do _ _ _, etc. Atmosphere o love & kdness. Hour o play constantly learning, b unconsciously & ventg 2 energies 2 prepare f work. One child suggests barnyd game n wh li girl wi ringlets prim, wi mo/erly air s old hen, & sprds wings over little chickens One child 2 yrs old. One, mo/er so cruel - n red stockgs - warned t child wd b taken away. All very poor. Study n heredity 2 see varieties o face & char stamped bef 6-8 yrs. Baby n pink & white li [[Gusset?]] - little [[Juvess?]] wi blk eyes & hair - b out - now eager - awed little face listn'g 2 teacher. A Little darlng takes active part n game - Sweet gentle faces - hard - dull - intellig - all kinds. One boy [[subscript]] [16] [[/subscript]]
markd none & big intell eyes - full o mischief - holds paper - teacher tells 2 put down - holds out 2 o/er child 2 see - n barnyd as doves turkeys [[insertion]] heads going [[/insertion]] lambs, turtles etc run out & back, he comes bk backwds - original child - h 2 b taken out bef we go.
Superintd teacher went 2 ygest class - says must know [[underlined]] hats [[/underlined]] - if one brimless one mistaken gter - alrm - ndig - /ere 2 forget [[underlined]] names [[/underlined]]. Teaches 2 count by sticks - accuracy - alertness - table n front o little bunches & squares wi cut in lines - child - one stick ly'g down - how many cuts n stick? Put o/er stick standg up fo st end etc [[superscript]] [[3r?]] [[/superscript]] table - /ere 4 = box - what put n? Cherries h great [[nm?]] x Candy - prob 2 dear f /re poor little lots - one says bass drum - [[superscript]] [17] [[/superscript]]
ano/er play horse, etc. room f /inkg & orig. Weaving, pictures pricked & sewd, house - Gd mo/ers as [[boy h?]] b visitg " [[Ditto for: mo/ers]] - out of blocks.
Up stairs rooms - all child seem happy. Gt work n modelling sandclay.
N P.M. went wi Min E 2 lk at photographs wi Helen at Vickovry's - Soule's plates.
Pretty girl n gray wi persian neck & cuff. Sweet face blk hair - blue gray eyes. Asks politely 2 come n af. H got shoes [[superscript]] 6 - [[/superscript]] - fair b shrewd [[?]] - /em 2 Dr Bs. H sees beauty "[[insertion]] mo/erly benign [[/insertion]] queenly" face
Satd P.M. 2 Dr. B's & I 2 Grant Ave. chinese store - 2 big Jap. lanterns over door, under awning. Sing Fat & Yokohama mcnt stores on 1st block o chinatown. [[Austin?]] 5 [[cent symbol]]. [[?]] drapd wi rosettd red hang'gs [[subscript]] [18] [[/subscript]]
Sunday Dr B's ag. Monday /re 2 lunch. H out 2 [[Santeo?]] Heights & bk n time f lunch. Tuesday mg pack & Dr Potter calls. P.M. got wddg present f E. & later H 2 library 2 show what want 2 read f work & /en 2 ferry. Fa/er take 2 Oakland.
Wednesday mg. pack /ngs etc. & P.M. start f home.
[[underlined]] May 30. Sacramento. [[/underlined]] Left S.F on / 4 P.M. boat for Oakld. A band o ^ [[insertion]] brown [[/insertion]] smoke lay over [[strikethrough]] 0 [[/strikethrough]] / bay & / sky w gray so t / water lkd a dull green.
We crossd on / Benicia ferry boat f / 3d time. / ferry h 4 tracks & will hold ab 16 long cars, / size o pullmans. A barn swallow flew over / boat as we crossd. Going up / ^ [[insertion]] broad [[/insertion]] valley we passd a no. o song sps. on / lowest board & Bef we crossd [[overwritten]] we [[/overwritten]] I heard & saw a no. o small bds twittg & flyg on / bank /o't /ey w yellow bds b cd x tell. [19]
heard o / [[found?]] some sing'g, & one fly'g n wi a tilting rush till it alm upset - lit so suddenly. A song o one came n / window, - wi old famil sweetness. On / brown hillside at / rt lives o haycocks - brown dots. li pins on a cushion - fr / river up. Our last view o water on our left w o glisten'g crystal fr / settg sun.
Over / low rollg hills on / west 1st a brill yellow. 2 bright 2 bear - /en a dead gold ag wh / dark green oaks on / hills showd n contrast; which across / [[image]] valley ^ [[insertion]] a saltmarsh here [[/insertion]] / far mt peaks [[image - drawn mountain profile]] w cov'd wi rosy glow
Red wings flew ab / marsh & one lit on a fence post ^ [[insertion]] ab / reeds [[/insertion]] near / train - what hands epilats he h! - & stay'd /re till we h gone Passing /ro / marsh we h a beaut chang'g picture. / westn [[subscript]] [20] [[/subscript]]
hills made a low regl horizon broken by one ^ [[insertion]] low [[/insertion]] volcano-shaped cone & 2 peaks [[image: profile of two peaks]] on / higher level. / sun set over / mts, wh grew mistier & + purple - a gold sunset n varyg shades - & / ^ [[insertion]] waving [[/insertion]] marsh glow w dark [[underlined]] warm [[/underlined]] green. A frog chorus ga richness 2 / picture, & breaks u / marsh n wh / sunset w reflectd n gold & orange fringes & flats ag / green marsh grass ga variety & gt beauty - li light on / buoy post n de Haas forigd. / color o / water w singly strong - now metallic blue - /en a dark green - Red wings flew over / marsh & a swallow flew obliquely up ag / gold sunset. / changes n / sky w interestg. It maintaind one genl. [[underlined]] form [[/underlined]] char. /ro out. Close over / mt [[subscript]] [21] [[/subscript]]
line a band o delicate light, unbroken xcept by delicate lining Ab /is a broad band o cloud chang'g wi every instant, & / hills deepening n blue haze - / mt boundg band w wheat s oftener heard o /an seen - by me - a [[underlined]] sea [[/underlined]] o light. / pecul. effect o distance gi by smooth surface o water. / upper [[insertion]] ^ cloud [[/insertion]] band at 1st h form - seem'd 2 [[underlined]] round out [[/underlined]], grow'g fr yell bel 2 alm ochraceous ab. (Black pigs [[strikethrough]] n [[/strikethrough]] - feed'g w scatt'd over / marsh [[strikethrough]] ) [[/strikethrough]] & cows later on.) / broad band broke into furry lower edge o orange. Ab /is trail'g gray cloud streamers rose. / orange fur fringe turn'd 2 [[underlined]] rose [[/underlined]] bordg a [[underlined]] gray [[/underlined]] cloud band - wi a delicate rose line /ro / middle. / rose edg'g chang'd 2 buff tossing cloud. / lower band o light by /is time h changd 2 / ethereal [[subscript]] [22] [[/subscript]]
green wi gold lines. On our rt we passd vineyds wi grape sprays stretchg up airily, & /en /ro yg orchards. On / left we came 2 a sage green grain fld at / end o wh a dark eucalyptus grove stood ag / sky - a band o alm white light wi edg'g o orange close over / mt horizon line . / cloud band by /is time w dark ab / white band, & w grad by larg solid form & breakg up dull [[underlined]] rose brown [[/underlined]] touchg off / gray. Dark gaind on us as we neared Sacramento & I saw stars n / sky on raisg my curtain as we got nto / station
We w side track'd f / night & it w so hot we h much tossg bef sleep & I [[insertion]] h [[/insertion]] only a sheet & shawl over my flannel night dress all night. Woke at 4.10 & w out ab 6.30 wi fa/er after listng 2 / bds [[subscript]] [23] [[/subscript]]
[[left margin]] / porter said "/re is x particlar way 2 [[dine?]] on /se cars" when [[/left margin]]
[[right margin]] askd 2 make bed wi head fr engine [[/right margin]]
[[Specimen of pressed leaf]]
nside as long as my patience lasted. Kept hearg fr him & woke, a jumble o songs - among wh a warbler - prob. 1) [[underlined]] D. celata lutescens [[/underlined]] & 2) [[underlined]] Habia melanocephala [[/underlined]] predominatd. I hd [[underlined]] H. wi. [[/underlined]] wondergly at 1st. b on recog / robin shy then I soon recognzd him.
Fortunately I fd on going out t a /icket o willows, /is [[image: arrow, points to space where leaf was once taped]] & syc borderd a (slow, /ey call it [[insertion]] [[image: arrow]] & a foot bridge [[/insertion]] passd so close 2 / trees I saw a no. o bds. [[underlined]] Spinus psaltria [[/underlined]] w sittg on a telegraph wire as we passd 2 / bridge & leand over 2 scrape his bill or attend 2 o/er details o his toilet so t I h a good lk, /ro my glass, [24]
o his blk cap. Nos. o [[symbol?]] [[underlined]] petrochilidon lunifrons [[/underlined]] w fly'g ab, over / water & ab / old buildings. 3 [[superscript]] 5 [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] wild geese [[/underlined]] n a wedge flew n.w. & presently 2 + went over n / same gnrl direction. N / big syc on / bank o / water w full o very active warblers who took time 2 sing /o /ey w desperately rushd f brkfast, starved I shd /ink by / way /ey chasd af fr tree 2 tree fly'g off every time past as I got my glass on /em. One I /ot h white wing bars, & yell breast & dark [[insertion]] dark [[/insertion]] green or olive back. I made out one [[superscript]] 6. [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] D. aestiva marconi [[/underlined]] by / "obsolete brwn streaks" on / sides & /ot I w sure o a [[underlined]] D. [[a. l. ?]] / way o flutterg hummingbd fashion nder leaves w true 2 my I.D. exper. N / midst o / dense green a dead sapling reachd up - [[superscript]] [25] [[/superscript]]
as bare as a [[hop?]] pole, & /is w used by a dear little [[superscript]] 7) [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] Melospiza fasciata [[/underlined]] heermanii (?) f a singing post. Ag & ag it came bk after flyg down among / willows, each time /owg up its head & sing'g w / sunlight wi/in a rod or 2 o where people w passg on / bridge. It sat very straight & / sunlight fell - on its breast or down its back as it sat facing one way or / o/er. It must h flown up 1/2 a doz times as we stood /re. Ano/er song came out o / denser lower /icket - & I quite missd / old hand-tied-up ask refuse ga/g darkey who came up as out o / sluggish malarial /iket by a mt - trail. / bd must h b [[superscript]] 8) [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] Turdus [[ronalischkas?]] [[/underlined]] its song w so li our house hermit. It h 3 phrases o / same genl char. b wi much less richness [[superscript]] [26] [[/superscript]]
an echo o one beaut song. Heard a discordant note & saw a [[superscript]] 8) [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] Tyrannus verticalis [[/underlined]] fly over. Saw also, what I took 2 b [[superscript]] 9) [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] Sayornis phoebe [[/underlined]] [[superscript]] 10) [[/superscript]] Saw a [[underlined]] Caspodacus [[/underlined]] (frontalis mexicanus ?) on a - telegraph wire I /ink. [[superscript]] 11) [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] Passer domesticus [[/underlined]] building mud - prob n swallows old nests ab trimmings o capitol, & [[superscript]] 12 [[/superscript]] [[underlined]] Scolecophagus cyanocaphalus [[/underlined]] walkg ab wi oscillatg hd pickg [[strikethrough]] f [[/strikethrough]] worms fr / lawn.
Workmen crossg bridge wi pails fa/er asks pop - some say 50,000, o/ers 30, & some doubt t. Req'g 2 use glass [[?]] n spectacle. Fa/er made it easier by ga/er'g statistics. After breakfast went n st car / seats facing & wi change box swnig on pulleys driver pulls bk n for/ f face /o middle o top o car / 2 capitol. Improving [[subscript]] [27] [[/subscript]]
buildg - minature o U.S. cap. dome central fr pillars wi sq. (?) wings on either side. Quite large grounds wi cypresses, cedar, etc. - cypresses clipped.
Inside under dome statue o Isabella holdg jewels 2 Columbus f voyage 2 Am. We w shown by guide /ro supreme courts, senate, library, house, etc. / guide said when Fa/er asked him if he w x gettg sick sellg his photo & statue. "X, I've 8 children, wife _ & _ Mother n law _ I'm endowed wi relatives"! Drove 2 trasker art gallery fr /re. Fd it closed b fa/er got n by going 2 / house. / man showed us also /ro / lower part o / house. N / art gall. we saw Church's Andes - / orig - / sky & water & wonderfully
[[subscript]] [28] [[/subscript]]
soft & tropical b / trees lk li [[underlined]] chromd [[/underlined]] trees. Its surprisg - sad - 2 see / choice o subjs f paintings _ What [[underlined]] s [[/underlined]] art 2 b belittled 2 n /is way? / C house - partie / parlors - s a [[underlined]] litter [[/underlined]] - o xpressive & some beaut /ings b just what u wd imag a rich unculturd fam wd b. Large wooden & inlaid tables. / one beaut /ing w / orig o Roger's Nidia. Such x quis modelling - Such a beaut sufferg, listeng face " [[ditto for: beaut]] hand o gt delicacy. Its a most beaut /ing. / only fault 2 me s / deafing wind blown. / country fr Sacramento s rich & interg. " [[Ditto for: Sacramento]] s full o trees & a very pretty pleasant lkg town altogether diff fr my idea o / hot Sac. [[subscript]] [27] [[/subscript]]
[[Specimen of three pressed flowers]]
Picked at Cape Horn, Nevada. in the Sierra Nevada Mts.
haycocks light straw color
Rich orchards, & trees n / valley. [[insertion]] Saw doves fly & a crow [[/insertion]] Soon went up nto / mts - Sierra Nevada & it grew cooler. [[strikethrough]] at [[/strikethrough]] Passd /ro a tunnel - at 1st saw mts & sky wi man small n foregd just enterg - tunnel n form o horse shoe. We got on far/er - / lands grad disappd & x f large man n mou/ wi dust cloud surrdg him - /en all faded into blkness - a confusing rush o light, puff o smoke & we w out - x b / horse shoe etc / outside of / tunnel. / mts r much / same as on / shortr route, only higher & / gorges deeper. b r only sparsely wdd & so do x it a beauty. We got out at Cape Hove f /o grand, / mist preventd our gettg / full effect o / height. / snow sheds [[image]] no route later 2 very disagreeable [31]
Got glimpses /ro opengs n o Druner Lake - a pretty blue among / mts. /is s below Summit (where snow fall f dinner) & near Truckee "hardest place n U.S" walkd along nder roofs & saw men sittg every where. such sad manner - desperate faces & some [[insertion]] horribly [[/insertion]] hard & disaifectd. Gamble fr night 2 mg & mg 2 night. Indians doing same. Women wi papooses one n dark green [[image]] Calico hkf as sq hung ovr babys face wi 25 [[cent symbol]] pieces fastend 2 corners.
Lay side trackd & came on /is mg over desert - 25 mis o it we [[/r?]]. /re dreary sage brush hills & sage & bare sand desert - hot - bleak, horrible. What trouble & sorrow must h b behind emigrants 2 drive /em /o /is. At way stations li Woodward we see groups o [[superscript]] [32] [[/superscript]]
[[landscape orientation]]
Inds at stations along / way. One man ly'g on platform. Men standg ab, groups & women sittg cross leggd on / sand - high [[?]].
Men usually wi Am. hats wi some some bright band - yellow, red, purple & one man wi /oat latch o / in bead wk hang'g down on brst. At Elko 2 Ind women sat n front o a store one old, smiling kindly face - o/er fat yg girl - very pretty wi curved Am lips & Am cast 2 features - [[?]] chewg gum.
When we came up [[underlined]] en masse [[/underlined]] 2 stare at /em, she pulld magenta silk hkf up ovr her mouth & face & bowd hd over so we cd x see her.
[[/landscape orientation]]
Indians - squaws wi red hkfs on heads - straight blk bangs & side hair fram'g faces. Babies & little children playful & cling'g 2 mo/ers skirts - kindly b stupid faces. (^ [[insertion]] Ind [[/insertion]] Boys at Truckee walkg ovr prs o car wheels. Big Ind girl doing it as child east walk stones.) At Humbolt beaut oasis - by irrig & fertilizers. Locusts n bloom & cotton wd (?) trees. Such [[arfuly?]] verdure! Saw [[superscript]] 1) [[/superscript]] robins, 3 big chunked [[superscript]] 2) [[/superscript]] crows walkg ab eatg w/n orchard trees, heard [[superscript]] 3) [[/superscript]] oriole singg & saw fly'g ab b cd x get near eno f species. Heard [[superscript]] 4) [[/superscript]] warblers - prob western yellow. (D aes. M.) & saw [[superscript]] 5) [[/superscript]] b bd n 10 min stop & heard more bds. Went /ro desert o same char till dinner time (5 PM.) i. e. low sage - 6 in + - [[subscript]] [33] [[/subscript]]
blue-purple n shadows - [[scamson?]] sides.
Dur'g / day, Friday, whenever we passd a small stream wi willows on / bank - f /re r such at long distances on / desert - bds wd b flyg ab. Saw a no. o bds x puzzled me gtly. Blk & white - markd li Phainopepla only bigger, wi long tails - & one wi white no tail. Saw one [[strikethrough]] pickg at [[/strikethrough]] teasing hawk.
[33a]
or bare sand - an occas sink wi buttes ad it or x. B /en we came 2 / Palisades - perpendic cliffs wi gt basins worn n /em - one on archway & smaller holes. A cañon n one place. / rocks, reddish, w v many places cast by yellowish lichens gi warm effect. Saw red wings o [[underlined]] C. cafer [[/underlined]] as it flew ab [[strikethrough]] sur [[/strikthrough]] face o cliff. /ot first h nest n one o / holes of / rock
Saw also a [[insertion]] ^ hawk [[/insertion]] bbd. & a dove flew swiftly across face o cliff & /en up, light'g on a ledge o rock where it prob w nest'g. Strange how / least shadow o a suitable place r seizd upon by / bds even n / middle o a desert.
How r /eir migrations across it effectd? Do /ey pass over it? If x, how discover /is & Humbolt oasis?
[[insertion, left margin]] At sunset we got beaut effect on Mts on st. Snow Mts wi [[/insertion, left margin]]
[[insertion, right margin]] warm rose on snow piles on brown rock b ag low [[/insertion, right margin]]
[[underlined]] Sat mg [[/underlined]] we brkfastd at 5 by [[subscript]] [34] [[/subscript]]
San Fran time - nearer 6, /re being an hour diff at Salt Lake & ate brkf wi beaut pict 2 lk at. F some reason I h x assoc S.F. wi any o / [[underlined]] beauties [[/underlined]] o a [[sheet?]] o water, b see'g it a deep blue ag / warm red brown low hills f faded bk n to a misty blue range it made a beaut sight, & an exsiting one 2 me when / bds fly'g ab / marshy edges o / lake w & d. /re w mostly red wings & water bds b I saw what must h b a bobolink - blk & white wi white patches on / back - wi a thrill possib only 2 a person who h x seen one f a [[strikethrough]] 16 months [[/strikethrough]] year & a half.
At station - Ogden - where we changed f [[blank space]] 2
Denver & Rio Grande (R [[underlined]] i [[/underlined]] o h Grand /ey say x [[underlined]] Reoh Grandee [[/underlined]]) [[superscript]] [35] [[/superscript]]
/n w a squaw wi a papoose n her arms. We askd 2 see / pap b she held / red bandana close on / head o / cradle & said coyly - "w giv me 10 cents"!
/ frame & shapd li coffin [[image - coffin shape]] & h project - roof over babies head. Its body s wound tightly wi cloth - or prob it s slippd nside a canvas sack t s pastd 2 / frame. Mrs Watson fr Rockford wantd 2 take / baby's pict b as soon as she took her box out o / little lea/er case / squaw turned & walkd off - same as o/er did Friday.
Rode near lake most o way fr Ogden 2 S.L. cars lkd li house clean'g - 2 rows dentist chair on left-side & one on rt 1/2 way down & /en change - reverse. [[subscript]] [36] [[/subscript]]
Got 2 Salt Lake & visted till dinner - /en went 2 drive. City wi wide sts - /re fr - irrigation canals. Trees everywhere along sts - locust, maple, poplar etc. Houses wi yards bk fr sts - pretty cottages - 2 front doors = 2 wives? Drove all /ro city & next 2 camp Douglass. Went past Zion's Cooperative
Sign n blue wi gilt letters - "Holiness 2 / Lord" & ab / all-seeing eye, an eye chiselld out. Driver says t / Walker farm w orig al Mormons b when gi g tithes over - Church demand'd t - designated - wd x pay - left - so song gotten up - parody o "Mo/er may I go out 2 service". Mo/er may I go out 2 shop Yes, my darling daughter [[subscript]] [37] [[/subscript]]
You may go to / Gt Coöp But don't go nigh / Walkers"
[[line across page]]
We went past / tithing yard - a large yard enclos'd w a conglomerate wall - cobble stone. People come wi carts & wagons every day 2 bring tithes.
House in yard where immigrants r first who come wi/out houses. Drove up 2 temple - only partly done - carvings ovr windows diff phases o moon, & carving o sun. Walls 10 ft thick. Driver - narrow head, white short heard, small bright blue eyes. Used 2 b coachman n Engd. Wit. Puts on ministerial tones & tells us t / temple s 2 b "f / ordinances o / ch, marriages, baptisms, confirmations [[subscript]] [38] [[/subscript]]
etc x f worship" [[insertion]] ^ Driver says begins 40 yrs ago & will b completed (n a low voice, / devil knows when." [[/insertion]] Lakes. neck opposite. circular (turntable) wi brick pillars. pretty lawns & flower beds nside wall. Drove past Brigham Young's grave - x monument - acc [[insertion]] blk [[/insertion]] beam fence n one corner o & green plot - sq melons n fence - green circle wi figs on sides - white slabs flat on gd - sev wives t h died.
Saw houses wives lived in. Oppos B. hive & Lion house w Amelia house which w built f favorite - "at [[underlined]] one time [[/underlined]] favorite wife" A hands modern house. After dea/ o B.Y. it w taken by church, as built wi ch money.
Entrance 2 B hive etc gateway wi Eagle wi spread wings standg on B. hive. Lion house wi lion on barn [39]
Notice a pretty house wi pleasant grounds - b /is s only part o / missng o /is city o heart ache.
Coachman says Eng man n house he points out mrd sister o his wife when she died - says good way 2 do - only [[underlined]] one [[/underlined]] mo/er-n-law. Says mormons marry mo/er & daughter & so x mo/er-n-law ! Driver says alm every ward h bishop & school - 23 [[superscript]] (?) [[/superscript]] wards 21 (?) bishops - /re & / school teaher find out [[increase?]] - keep track o state & [[?]] etc n households & see t tithing s sent n correctly - sort o acquisition committee. Driver says B.Y. pretend'd 2 h got / location f / city by revelation - driver says "an old trapper told him ab it - t w / kind o revelation he h"! [[subscript]] [40] [[/subscript]]
Says he kept people "poor & humble". Whnever a man got 2 much money [[insertion]] Brigham [[/insertion]] /n wd tell him 2 take ano/er wife, & t kept him poor, or if he w a better class /n ord send him on a mission & if his wives w careless & did x pay / tithg he wd count it up wi 10% int, & when he came bk he'd find hims all n a snarl & [[insertion]] if he [[/insertion]] cd x get out o debt 2 ch. [[strikethrough]] o [[/strikethrough]] B wd sieze lands - confiscate 2 church. "Ts / way he got money 2 build houses 2 keep his wives n" - Sarcastically. Quotes Artemus Ward glibly & wi sense o broad humor. B. Y. "a numerous fa/er, an extend'd husband, all / children call him pa & he takes it f granted it s so." [[subscript]] [41] [[/subscript]]
Saw where endowmt house w n corner o tabernacle yd. b x near eno 2 tell any/ing ab it. Formerly used 2 go 2 b seald 2 wives.
Driver wed a Morman
Woman says ch x agree on / subj & so did x talk ab it. Shows houses all over city where diff wives livd - n better class wives seem 2 h separate houses.
Camp Douglass delightful on height over city. barracks on sides o common & officers pretty nice [[strikethrough]] cond [[/strikethrough]] houses picturesque cottages ab.
Piazzas wi wives skidl'g.
Views down nto valley - over lake & mts beyd beaut.
Pickg flowers - "look out f snakes". Driver. "Let 'em rattle"! Went bk 2 hotel & restd till dinner. Sunday [[subscript]] [42] [[/subscript]]
P.M. went 2 Tabernacle. /ey w holdg an annual meetg & tab filld - people fr 100 miles away a Mormon man told Fa/er. 2 far our side 2 hear much. b cd see people going n & out - 2 some adv. It w heartsickn'g 2 see / sad faces o / women & / old sad looks o / little girls. I saw only one happy lkg woman n / buildg. /ey h patient compressd b deadly sad xpressions. / men lk'd li ignorant fanatics - stupid, b unmovable - set. One lkd li monkey. Saw one ra/er spiritual lkg yg man.
I sat down beside girl o 13 + & when fa/er asked her 2 move up 2 make room f me she lkd surprised & turnd & stared straight at me.
Her face w sad - sad gray eyes,[[superscript]] [43] [[/superscript]]
/in patient lips - kept lkg me over dress, gloves. etc - wondering dazed sort o look, b sweet smile when she cot my eye. / seat held 2 girls - ab 13 - a [[insertion]] ^ plain [[/insertion]] woman who lkd as if she w /eir mo/er - some yger child ano/er woman (yger [[insertion]] & prettier [[/insertion]] /an 1st mo/er & I guess'd mo/er o / yger child.) /en man - husb o / 2 as I guess'd Husb calld away & child betw folld so 2 women left sittg side by side. Did x move up - bo/ wi sad eyes. Yger woman less patient - glared at o/er woman as if jealous. Horrible heart ache n city.
Preacher talkd li foreigner on class o x. Spiritual, earnest, folld by old Latterday St. white-beardd man told
[[subscript]] [44] [[/subscript]]
[[vertical, left margin]] Women mostly servant girl class. [[/vertical, left margin]]
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Left S.L.C. Monday AM at 9.30 A.M. Beaut fertile valley wi quantities o trees. Passd Utah Lake a pretty li green lake.
/en nto Wasatch Mts - H an xcell dinner at Provo & /en on into Spanish Fork Cañon where gt deal o red rock wi green o trees picturesque.
Sedimentary rock [[image - slanting lines indicating sedimentary rock]] (at L)
Bold juttg rocks, & rugged cliffs & peaks. One [[recas?]] log cabin, clear Creek bord'd by trees & willows - pretty fresh b water lk as if over clay - gray.
Follg on came out o high broken mts 2 gray wi lower hills & covd wi evergreens. 22 miles beyd / summit I lookd out o / window & [[insertion]] ^ nvoluntarily [[/insertion]] startd up out o / seat at / sight.
A giant column o rock rose high ag / sk 570 (?) ft. We stoppd ab 15 min. & w nearly [[superscript]] [46] [[/superscript]]
blown down by / force o / wind t rushed down / canons.
Outside, look'g fr o/er points / column w x isolated as it appd.
B sedimentary rock [[image - tilted line]] slightly tilted h b worn /ro n places 100s o ft down, & / column w a wall [[image - line drawing indicating wall]] wh h b worn [[insertion]] ^ off ^ abruptly [[/insertion]] at its highest pt - smoothd till / front face w alm ed'g -
Alm oppos /is, on / rt a less strikg b wonderful wall o rock projectd - worn n such a way t it left an isolat'd sq castle - li chess castle. Beyd /is / same formation prevaild - Isolated walls o harder rock projecting abruptly as if wedge thrust betw 2 narrow canons.
Tremendous force o water!
As we went fur/er on / rocks look'd li pictures n / geologies, slightly worn on / top o / sedimentary rock [[subscript]] [47] [[/subscript]]
scallops & [[image - v shape on top of three parallel lines]] etc.
/ cañon (castle cañon) widen'd out & the bluffs grew lower & fr rock chang'd 2 fine mud deposit. [[image]] At one pt a cone s left isolated n / middle o a cañon [[image - cone shape]] At supper we stopp'd fr / middle o / desert & fd a large hotel - a dining house merely - where /re h b [[underlined]] x [[/underlined]] 3 yrs bef. a yard full o green grass, a fountain etc. Inside a gold fish basin wi little glass globes ad / edge wi flowers n /em pansies etc. We h an xcell meal & a stout old woman n white bustld ad [[strikethrough]] try [[/strikethrough]] waitg on / tables wi real [[underlined]] hostess [[/underlined]] airs - "will u h steak"? "No." "Not any steak" - in rather surprised, aggrievd tones. [[strikethrough]] Its [[/strikethrough]] It's [[underlined]] sirloin steak [[/underlined]] - [[strikethrough]] n [[/strikethrough]] h any sirloin steak? I'll guarantee it."
Beaut sunset - red [[narue?]] solid & rose beyd. /is ag / abrupt [[superscript]] [48] [[/superscript]]
buttes. As I went [[strikethrough]] sets [[/strikethrough]] 2 bed / light h fad'd & / light w alm white wi lines o faint gray ag / dark cliffs, while one star shown faintly at an L fr / cliffs.
Tuesday A.M. took breakfast at C[[strikethrough]] u [[/strikethrough]]imar'ron & waitd 3 hrs f an observation car t h x b sent on as it o't. Pleasant place - trees (li willows) in Cimarron Creek runng rt bk o station. Delicious alm ice cold water. [[underlined]] D. aestiva marconi [[/underlined]] sing'g freely n trees ab station. An active warbler, flyg ab, & at one time cling'g 2 tree trunk. Heard [[underlined]] Habia melanocephala [[/underlined]] sing & saw it alm loose its balance bobbg over on a twig 2 catch some/ing n / leaves. Saw [[strikethrough]] sev [[/strikethrough]] a b bd. what I took 2 b a yg blue bd. swallows, (prob P. l ) & a robin come 2 her nest n a tree x 2 rods fr / track & x go off as [[superscript]] [49] [[/superscript]]
engine blew off steam. / song o [[underlined]] [[marconie?]] [[/underlined]] s loud, fast lively, b x beaut. twee-whee-whee' whee-he-ha'
We walked down / track 2nd blk cañon & on / sand n / creek I got a glimpse o a - sandpiper or some/ing o / kind.
We all got nto / observation car - a sort o coverless box wi sides ab 3 ft high. Seats o wd slats n shape o regl car seats. Went rt nto Black Cañon [[strikethrough]] along [[/strikethrough]] by way o / side Cimarron Creek cañon, & folld along & across & back ag over / Gunnison River. / 2 most remark cañons o / trip septd by / Rockies (Marshall Pass) 2 Blk Canon /ro wh / Gunnison flows nto (Grand R. Colorado R) / Gulf o Cal & / o/er. Royal Gorge /ro wk (Arkansas R & Mississ / Gulf o Mexico. bo/ n [[superscript]] [50] [[/superscript]]
Wide gauge being laid f business & passing narrow 2 b kept f tourists.
Colorado. / rock o Blk Canon s sedimentary. t o Royal Gorge volcanic. N Blk cañon / strata s at every [[images depicting rock strata types - L shape, upside-down U shape, two parallel horizontal lines, two parallel vertical lines]] twisted & bent li so much cloth. / mt sides w largely covd wi trees & wi light green t lkd li grass.
Swallows flew ab cañon walls 2 high f species b yet x half way up walls (1 - 2000) Terrific heights. awe inspirg cañon. Chipela Falls li Bridal Veil. Run along so close 2 wall o rock seems as if wd strike.
Pictures - lkg bk, bold juttg Ls - forward, open'g views wonderful. Curvecauti Needle (1 - 1500 ft) stands [[image - two lines meeting at point]] n entrance o small cañon 2 main one. x as impressive as body o cañon 2 wi. x dignity & grandness end 2 forms.
[[strikethrough]] Royal Gorge [[/strikethrough]] Stop at big [[superscript]] [51] [[/strikethrough]]
Gunnison hotel f dinner - [[prob?]] 6 dining houses xcell meals. Leave observ. car & /ro Marshall Pass scenery sit on rear platform. Ladies sick - 2 engines - go ahead on / down grade. Wind bk & forth doubl'g on track snow on Ousay Mt. Grade sometimes 2 11 ft - 2 sick. At summit get out n shed while x [[am'g?]] train & g out o snow shed door 2 lk. 10,852 xtendd view. x [[underlined]] cold [[/underlined]] x much wind. Mts wded /o on E slope 1/2 trees ln blown(?) down. X so [[many?]] up or down as Switzer's trail. Same grd effect only on larger scale - broader & so less impressive. Most interstg 2 me snow sheds. 1st light comg n on st (as we lkd bk) & later (going down / on left. [[superscript]] [52] [[/superscript]]
/ro shed windows squares o light position sunlight as falls on road bed & glitters on rails b br wind 2 gd a distance = broad oblique plank o ghostly light - + li lea/er bands n fraction - [[contently?]] n motion - [[running?]] - curious affect o long rises o /re back /re shed. & ab /o chicks come [[?]] [[kauds?]] o dim sunbeams.
/en at turn n road (rather o train at short cnrer) narrow bands o light fr radius. H 19 (?) sheds on way up & [[strikethrough]] 1 [[/strikethrough]] 6 (?) way down.
Whistle bef each to warn wkmen. Take hand car aft. Down grade up an upper ride of horseshoe curves.
[[image: pen sketch indicating horseshoe curves]] R.R. bed built up. Wave at wkmen - [[askn?]] wi dignity & warmth - [[superscript]] [53] [[/superscript]]
human feelg makes wld kin stop at Salida over night. so calld fo sp. only one spr'g /o mts. College group spoke, Harvd, Princeton wi snow, [[insertion]] all [[/insertion]] higher /an Pikes Peak.
Cold [[sword?]] mg & f twice n Leaud Cañon o / Arkansas b x f long. Ride n observ car. Early w cañon volcanic rocks on mts - li granite boulders o coast range - /en masses of lack solified as if can - coold & hard d as came - later Royal Gorge its - grander & sublim /an any /g bef. Sheer faces o granite _ R.R. suspendd fr walls o cañon over [[risze?]].
N P.M. got 2 Col'ds [[spegi?]] /en 2 Mainton P.M. [[?]] 5.
Thursday A.M. go 2 [[drive?]]
Garden o / Gods & Glen Erie. Enter at balanced rock. wd [[superscript]] [54] [[/superscript]]
sandstone. Valley washed out wi shelves projectg along sides & violatd rocks, masses o rock. etc. left - bright red wi light green o foliage most affectin & d E by white o Pikes Pk - dark dark on sides o mt ranges (evergreens n [[insertion]] ^ low [[/insertion]] lines on sides). & gray masses o limestone n garden. Saw a bd on cathedral spire & hd it sing - lkd small as sp & at 1st /ro glass /ot junco b song & on flight - churwick. Swifts w flyg ab / main gateway & a sp hawk flew out o a hole n / rock (?) callg as if 2 mate. Little pockets n rock prob us'd by smaller swifts etc. Turn'g 2 go 2 Glen Eire past Eagles nest on ledg o gt red rock big one & below 2 rt endless [[superscript]] 55 [[/superscript]]
Saw magpies among / rocks turn tails ( prob wind took & twistd. Cd see blk & white prob bd I saw on desert among willows (?)
Glen Erin Pres o [[overwritten]] R [[/overwritten]] D. & R.G.
Taste shown w leavg wild - x signs allowd. x one [[let?]] 2 get out o carrg & n gds.
Lodge pretty.
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^[[15]]
[[preprinted]] THE NOTE BOOK [[/preprinted]]