Journal, California, 1907

ID: SIA RU007417


Form/Genre: Fieldbook record

Date: 1907

Citation: Florence Merriam Bailey Photograph Collection, circa 1890-1898 and undated

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Bailey, Florence Merriam, 1863-1948


The journal discusses Florence Bailey's travel along the west coast, September 20 - November 29, 1907. Note on the front indicates that it is 2 of 2 volumes. Journal entries are headed with date and location. Entries describe travel details, individuals met, interactions with colleagues, descriptions of communities, birds observed (gulls, water birds, sandpipers) and their behaviors as individuals and in flocks. There is description of marine life seen aboard vessel enroute to Catalina Island. Notes in margins highlight major topics covered in entries, usually referring to type of fauna observed but also delineating locations and topics like an invalid patient and labor parade. Most observations of birds take place in California. Much of the notebook is blank. Locations include Pasadena, Mt Loma, Venice, Catalina, San Fernando Valley, Saugus, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Red Bluff, Scout's Bluff, Glenwood, California; Portland, Oregon; Steilacoom, Tacoma, Washington.

Date Range


Start Date

Sep 20, 1907

End Date

Nov 29, 1907

Access Information

Many of SIA's holdings are located off-site, and advance notice is recommended to consult a collection. Please email the SIA Reference Team at


  • Birds
  • Ornithology


  • California
  • United States
  • Oregon
  • Washington


  • Fieldbook record
  • Field notes

Accession #

SIA RU007417

Collection name

Florence Merriam Bailey Photograph Collection, circa 1890-1898 and undated

Physical Description

1 field book

Physical Location

Smithsonian Institution Archives


Box 1

[[Front cover]]
Florence Merriam Bailey 1834 Kalorama Road Washington. DC. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Journal [[/underlined]] [[underlined]] California [[/underlined]] 1907 [[underlined]] No. 2 [[/underlined]] Pasadena, Mt. Lowe, Venice, Catalina, San Fernando Valley, Saugus, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Red Bluff, Scanti Pass, Glenwood, Portland, Steilacoom, Tacoma.
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[margin]] Sept. [[underlined]] 20 [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] From Beaumont we went to Pasadena - S.P. D. [[underlined]] Dolgeville [[/underlined]] where we saw the mills - a warm country to make comfort for cold frostburn toes! On the train from Beaumont we heard a mother of a tuberculosis boy talking to a father of a tuberculosis girl! [[margin]] Tuberculosis tragedies [[/margin]] The mother was 'a school teacher' [[image - footnote symbol]] with another boy she had an anxious eye on. They had been in Banning for the summer where her sick son ^ [[insertion]] half way through an engineering course [[/insertion]] was sleeping on a screened porch. The doctor says "he's held his own this summer." "His fever'll be high this afternoon - he did not want us to come". Then she told gratefully how the doctor had come before she left and talked to the boy to keep his courage up & was going to sit with him afterwards. He'll get well there if he could anywhere - brave, bright, cheery - but oh the anguish in her eyes when - so full of it that she must talk, even to strangers, she says - "we talk about his [[underlined]] getting well [[/underlined]] - we ^ [[insertion]] try to [[/insertion]] think about [[underlined]] that [[/underlined]] !" Her grim courage of the two - or the bright-eyed woman and the gaunt collarless, white haired man were heartbreaking. Another mother 6 [[insertion]] looked [[/insertion]] with anguish in [[line across page]] [[image - footnote symbol]] leaving her son with her sister & coming back to school
[[underlined]] Pasadena [[/underlined]] her eyes while a hunchback daughter did up her hair & powdered & dressed up with childlike vanity in the small country junction station. From Dolgeville we took the S.P. spur that runs between Los Angeles & Pasadena. Pasadena is more & more surprising the more you go about it. A man in Beaumont with a big ring & worse than no manners said he didn't like Pasadena - "There are too many millionaires there to suit me!" But while you are surprised at the wealth of the place, the handsome houses, many of them gingerbread, ornate - some of them theatrical to the smiling point - Anheuser.[[underlined]] Bush [[/underlined]] terraced gardens etc - your sense of balance - sanity - is pleased by the quiet elegance ^[[insertion]] good taste [[/insertion]] shown by the larger members. The houses of redwood shingles with dark ivy or merely beautiful green lawns - and a thousand others - rest the eye and satisfy the sensibilities. You say Orange Grove Av. Grand Av. Marcugo Av. Madison St. Ford Place. & think you have exhausted the [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Pasadena [[/underlined]] beautiful residence section, but instead of the ugliness and mediocrity you expect as you turn into the side streets, you come upon new streets full of flowers and attractive [[underlined]] houses. [[/underlined]] Sunday morning we spent at the Griswells. In the afternoon we went to Garrauga to call on the Millers. Tuesday, reports written up, we went to Los Angeles to look up maps & barometers & find the type locality of [[underlined]] Perodipus [[/underlined]] - the site of the old town. Not finding Mr. [[Lumuis?]] we went to see Dr. R. G. Stearns. [[margin]] Dr. [[underlined]] Stearns [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] He proved an interesting old man in the reminiscent stage - but with flashes showing breadth of view, human sympathy, & basal rectitude. He showed us his paintings which show a delicate artistic feeling for nature & an intellectual interest in the technique - tho he never had any art training. He has a white beard, keen but kindly brown eyes & a long nose. He spoke of the decency of the mining towns he had known ^ [[insertion]] as opposed to Bret Harts stories [[/insertion]] & of the interest the men took in natural history. His interest is in Berkeley where his associates have been - he worked in the University. He is now writing occasional articles & raising snails with the purpose of
[[underlined]] Pasadena [[/underlined]] experimenting at hybridization, etc. We went to Los A. by the Oak Knoll road which goes out through the orange groves and hills & passed the Indian Crafts camp. [[margin]] Mt. [[underlined]] Lowe [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] Wednesday we went up Mt. Lowe, taking the electric road at the top of the incline & winding around the sides of ridges - & out on the edge on 'the horseshoe' - looking down on the valley and on canyons filled with long-around [[underlined]] Pseudotsuga macrocarpa [[/underlined]] - till we got to the [[space left blank - name of "inn"]] inn which is an attractive house with a big fireplace in the office, a pretty redwood & green dining-room, etc. Here, with a blowing of the bugle, the horsebackers start up the trail for the peak - 1100 ft. in 2 1/2 miles. At the (Upper Sonoran) top the bugle blows and echos answer from the canyons. Vernon walked up and back in a little over two hours, stopping to make plant notes etc - did better than the horses. While waiting I got another woman whose husband had gone up, to go out to 'Inspiration Point' with me. She was evidently on a wedding trip. She had lived in Butte Montana most of her life, tho [[insertion]] she had [[/insertion]] later gone to Utah (she wore a jewelled cross - to show that she was [[underlined]] not [[/underlined]] a Mormon?) - and how now been abroad 4 months & was on her way to ^ [[insertion]] near [[/insertion]] Prescott, Arizona to live. From the point [[end page]] [[start page]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Mt. Lowe [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] there was a view down the whole of Pasadena, the hills beyond, while in spite of smoke from a number of fires the two peaked points and the line of the Catalina hills showed, & the surf could be seen at the foot of a promontory this side. The rounded tops of manzanita, some blue green some yellow green in the sun were beautiful on the chaparral hillsides, but the gulches & cold slopes filled with spruce were the best, with thin long arms & shadows. It was interesting to trace out the trails on the mountains above. The Wilson's Peak [[image]] now distinct - now lost around a shoulder, again appearing as a line in the chaparral. With the glass which spots turned to camp houses and the white observatory building could be seen. While waiting at the hotel, sitting at the head of the steps. the bellboy. (See [[underlined]] Parus gambeli [[/underlined]]) There an old white haired gentleman & his son sat down and the son got out a bag of nuts & drew the squirrels & after a time then chickadees to him by the [[underlined]] quietness [[/underlined]] of his ways. The old man looked on much interested. It was pleasant to see men engaged in such sport. At our turn ^ [[insertion]] there was [[/insertion]] one boy standing in the sun with upstretched hand called to the chickadees - calling insistently -
[[underlined]] Pasadena [[/underlined]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Mt. Lowe [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] [[underlined]] making [[/underlined]] them come - and two or three women with ^ [[insertion]] nutty [[/insertion]] hands out in a row for the birds to chose from! And at the same time they were coming to me, farther along. The birds also came to people seated on the 2chair balconies opening from the office. Going down the electric car the tops of the ridges were in sunshine, the shadows between. On the incline a jocose man with a wife stood up looking down making remarks - "If those ropes should break - - I tell you now my heart is in my mouth! - - I wouldn't look down - it'd make me dizzy!" Tuberculosis man 1st tamed chickadees then died. Thursday specimens were packed up & preparations made for a 4 days pack trip in the mts. Mr. Griswell loaned blankets & canvas & helped get a bright young Casper Club boy who has made the trip before and whose brother years ago killed a grizzly up there. Friday ^ [[insertion]] 9.30 [[/insertion]] A.M. they started, with 2 saddle horses & a pack horse. The packing was done on the street & a bedridden special invalid watched from his windows with an opera glass, an event to him! (on his bed is [[underlined]] Kept by the love of God [/underlined]] & his serene, smiling face upholds the text) In some of the store windows here you see [[underlined]] Se habla Espanole [[/underlined]] In a hardware store - Solar Heaters [[end page]] [[start page]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Bedridden invalid [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] In the house is a bedridden special patient - 25 yrs ago Weir Mitchell had charge of her case. Only daughter - only child - dead - invalid for about 30 years - bedridden now for years - but the most cheerful person in the house. Kept by the Power of God & other texts are around her bed, & 'holy books' on her tables. She says she thinks McKinley's [[strikethrough]] beau [[/strikethrough]] death did more than his life for the people - says it showed that his religion wasn't just words - & she scrubs the tears from her eyes so you only guess how hardly now is her own courage. She keeps busy. In Sept. has 25 boxes ready for xmas - gives to a great many so cant give expensive presents. Sends papers to needy frontier ministers, loans books, etc. Old army surgeon taught by nurses in hospital to knit & crochet. Seen first on upper piazza in knitted bedroom slippers, knitting - think he must be a dreadful cripple passing away the time, but appears that he is able bodied - can get about - but not practising & when not reading does this - not to sell - pass the time. Pathetic tenderhearted old fellow - trouble made between him & his wife & he alone - goes & comes to his meals outside & nobody pays much of any attention to him. A Seattle girl of Italian father [[end page]]
[[underlined]] Pasadena [[/underlined]] hates the place (Seattle) & the people. Another special invalid spends time reading novels, going to dine etc. says she is indolent - doesn't like American men - too commercial. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Mrs. Griswells [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] After V's return we went to Mrs. Grimswell's to meet some Audubon people & had a big fire in the stone fireplace (Eucalyptus bianelus? [[branches?]]) & ate apples & ^ [[insertion]] ripe [[/insertion]] figs grown on the place. Another night we were asked to dine at Walter Richardson's, to see the skull of a grizzly he killed in the San Gabriels. The house - a temporary one with burlap backgound for ^ [[insertion]] a stunning [[/insertion]] African zebra skin - queer twisted horns of all sorts of African animals & other interesting skins. Mr. R. was an electrical engineer in the Kimberly mines & when there was got too active went hunting. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Richardsons [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] He is a strong faced quiet young fellow whose says little but whose force you feel. His wife is a sweet faced mother of a 13m boy ^ [[insertion]] a former Kindergartener [[/insertion]] studying up the latest psychology & feeding of infants etc. & leading the simple life. Her mother - widow of the Bebb of Willow fame. Their dinner served by Thunoslin on a long mission table with pretty silver & china was an example of simple sensible hospitality. Tomatoes & lettuce made the table pretty as an interest & [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Pasadena [[/underlined]] a delicious meatloaf & creamed potatoes served with bread & butter & some characteristic California dish was followed by a big dish of sliced peaches & a [[underlined]] big [[/underlined]] silver pitcher of rich cream - cake - all delicious & attractive, & the best touch of all given by the hostess' frank smile when - after a wait between courses - she explained that they had had to wash the plates! And they had come for us with an automobile & the husband will probably soon retire from business to do the things he cares for most! The wife is a former kindergartener & Hull House worker & a woman with ideal face. She is interested in trying to get playgrounds started in Pasadena. [[underlined]] 20 boys [[/underlined]] there on probation from the Los Angeles juvenile court make, Many will think, reason ^ [[insertion]] enough [[/insertion]] for playgrounds! A woman there was showing her son that she did not believe his word - teaching him to lie - She was thinking about his High School course. She wanted him to take botany instead of zoology. "I hate those squirrey thinks & I don't see any interest or use in studying them" - in the face of the fact that the boy - like most normal boys - had a natural interest in natural history. On the other hand she was a sensible womanly woman anxious to [[end page]]
[[start page]] do right by her boy. On what she said about zoology she asked me in all seriousness - "Is a duck a bird?" And the question was echoed by another good woman at table! [[margin]] Casper Club [[underlined]] meeting [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] After returning from the Mt. trip V went to San Pedro for a little [[rock?]] & on his return I informed him at Los Angeles. Hart met us there the 10th & that evening we went out to the Casper Club meeting. It was very interesting to look around the room and see the rugged honest manly faces of the boys whose articles you had been reading, and also to look on the dull, spiritless faces of the least interesting & realize what it was to their lives to have a spark of living interest like this. It was interesting to call out their observations & see where they had been and what they had seen. When H & V left for the south, I came to Venice where I had found there were unusual opportunities to study [[slates?]] birds at close range. [[image - footnote symbol]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Water birds [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] When the tide is low enough the waders gather on the beach, flying on apparently from the lagoons where they [[underlined]] stay during high tide. As [[/underlined]] you walk along the [[image - footnote symbol]] In the canals you can see cormorants diving & fishing & now & then a dabchick or a duck (see Phalaerocorax). [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] [[check mark]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Water birds [[/underlined]] [/margin]] dry sand above the beach the sand seems to be walking away from you (see Aegialitis [[sivosa?]]). But the view up the shore line is most interesting for shore birds are running out ^ [[insertion]] after the waves [[/insertion]] or hurrying back before them like children afraid of getting wet - back & forth, back & forth, myriad small & big forms. Godwits, willets, surfbirds, gulls ^ [[insertion]] & an occasional cormorant [[/insertion]] make up the population. (see species notes) The birds have been so tame that they would walk along the shore ahead of you, and when disturbed by a walker would make a circle - perhaps - in the afternoon - cross the [[sun?]] path - & light a little farther along the beach. But Sunday more people were here and guns were going off all day at the gun club grounds about the marshes & lagoons. On the shore in the afternoon within a mile there must have been 150 - 200 godwits alone. They were scattered along in small bunches when a man & a little boy in bathing suits came walking along the beach & the man began throwing stones at each group as he came to it, sending the little boy to pick up stones for him! His face was so hard that there seemed no appeal from it - & what could you say to a man of such wantonness. It made my blood boil with indignation. The
[[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Water birds [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] mans suit was in stripes! Good training for stripes he was giving the little boy by his side. This morning one poor godwit with dangling broken bill & another with broken leg lying in the sand of the shore may attest to his prowess - his noble prowess! When the birds had been frightened in this way all along the beach as the pair went & cause, a brown water spaniel excited by the dashing surf discovered that he could make the birds fly so he ran dashing down the beach barking & jumping, his ears flapping, & gulls flew up into the air & godwits rose in confusion in flocks. Then he lay in the sand & rolled & jumped up barking & tore down the beach again! Small wonder that the birds seem wild this mg! [[margin]] [[underlined]] Play [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] The other day I saw some boys driving a handsome spirited horse & drawing ^ [[insertion]] by [[/insertion]] a rope a ^ [[insertion]] boy's [[/insertion]] cart rigged up with a big sail! They were speeding round town with it! [[Much?]] watching surf scoters to-day I saw two boys with a cart & a burro stopping for lunch. The burro was eating his - a wisp of hay on the ground before him, while the boys ate theirs in the cart! A boy that I found on a raft in one of the canals then told me about the food of cormorants Told me [[superscript]] + [[/superscript]] Another day 3 boys with sails - old patched cloth - with little wagons - help with [[fast?]] on ground or [[?]] on school. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] that the crabs come themselves up with canal mud & then when the fish come near "they [[underlined]] nab [[/underlined]] them!" [[margin]] [[underlined]] Catamaran [[/underlined]] [/margin]] 4 men were drowned here in 3 months so now they have a Life Saving Station & a catamaran [[image - catamaran pontoons ]] two air filled tubes that ride the waves & are manned by rowers - one of the crew wears a red suit - a grateful mark in time of danger. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Porpoises [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] Oct. 15 - Some porpoises passed the pier rolling [[image]] along, two often side by side - see fins as they come up out of the water. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Gulls [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] Just about sunset I saw a flock of gulls flying around the pier & the sky above & went out to see. They were [[underlined]] heermanni [[/underlined]] & [[underlined]] occidentalis [[/underlined]]. A row of [[underlined]] h's [[/underlined]] sat on the pier rail & " on the ports ad. As the sun came thru low under the clouds it lit up the Santa Monica cliffs & a ship lying out by the Port Los Angeles (longest pier in the wld it is said to be - 1 1/2 miles long) It also lit up the rigging of the Venice wharf & touched 3 cormorants perched on the opposite sides of a row boat. A faint rainbow arched up in the southeast. Soon after the gulls disappeared for the night. Surf very high at sunset. Another night a [[end page]]
[[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] few people (not at the [[Coney?]] Island part) watch the sun go down ^ [[insertion]] in the Pacific [[/insertion]] - a red ball - then a red disc as it went out in clouds. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Marshes & Lagoon [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] [[underlined]] Oct. 16. [[/underlined]] Went out by the edge of the marshes & along the canals to-day after that horrible [[swimer?]] drove all my birds away from the beach (See Limosa Fedoa) and across the long bridge to the sand dunes overlooking the big stretch of marsh - muddy now with some plant - & with waterways everywhere. What delight it would be to wade through it & poke about quietly with a boat & really see what is there. There were worlds of birds out in the lagoon but I could not get near enough to see what they were but some were long legged round bodied & warm brown, [[including?]] [[indeally?]] godwits, and there were aggravating rows of which birds close together that I wanted awfully to know. One compensation. Lovely [[lumelied?]] over bitterns or some such thing - creeping along the edges of water ways! [[margin]] Beach at sunset [[/margin]] I came home ^ [[insertion]] just before sunset [[/insertion]] from down the road to Playa del Rey with long ^ [[insertion]] straight [[/insertion]] lines of white surf breaking 6 ft or more from its green wall - but out far enough not to pound. The ocean was gray & the white surf ^ [[insertion]] with its deep voice [[/insertion]] and air full of ocean life with [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] just a haze of fog coming in and a deep glittering gold sun path and a sunset sky that grew and ripened to rich purples. It was glorious. [[image - footnote symbol]]. The long straight lines of white surf and then big rollers behind give such a feeling of the dignity of the simplicity & bigness of it all. It all seems a part of the orderly march of the universe - how small a dot man is! And yet he alone can try to understand the universe - and bow before what he cannot fathom. [[underlined]] Oct. 20 [[/underlined]] - The beach was like a Soldiers Home this mg. doubtless as the result of the 'open season' and the popping from early morning out on the marshes & lagoon. The first discovery was a poor cormorant dead on the beach with its bill tied up (see [[underlined]] [[Phalacioem?]] [[/underlined]]) [[margin]] [[underlined]] Birds [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] then down the beach one after another godwits with broken legs, crippled surf birds and two big noble [[underlined]] gulls [[/underlined]] - one apparently with one leg shot [[underlined]] off [[/underlined]] - it was horrible & made you thankful when any poor little sandpiper put one foot before the other and trotted off normally. [[line across page]] [[image - footnote symbol]] and there were the swirling flocks of white sandpipers un resolving ahead of you.
[[start page]] [[margin]] Pasadina [[/margin]] Another invalid. Mrs. Birch. a sweet faced woman of gentle words & smiles - white. Nurse of the invalid. nicer. with face growing womanly and strong which the novel reader (from the convent) reads smart set & doubtful books and smiles with undeveloped girlish look that goes to your heart and makes you want to mother her. Landlady apologies for not doing more work herself - has to keep dressed up for inspection of house - good business principle. Little old maid waitress looks you in the eye when taking your order & in every way shows personal interest in having you pleased. Chinese cook can't be asked to help carry down baggage - express man told no man in house - Chinese cook - not a man. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Birds [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] Even some of the little sandpipers go stumping off on one foot as cheerful little cripples! It made me thankful when one man - in kaki went down & aimed at [[underlined]] one [[/underlined]] godwit - instead of banging into a flock & wounding a dozen - hit it, & instantly with a dexterous swing or two by his bill killed it in humane sportsman-like fashion. But to shoot at flocks of sandpipers too little for one [[underlined]] mouthful [[/underlined]] of game. or to shoot gulls, murder tame cormorants - [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Water birds [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] this country needs policing. Meanwhile the automobiles hurry down to the gun club! Great flocks of ducks went stringing over from the ocean - there must have been hundreds ^ [[insertion]] & hundreds [[/insertion]] of them - & still the popping went on. Poor things - tired from their nightly journey & seeing quiet waters inland - to fly to their doom. If they are shot [[underlined]] dead [[/underlined]] - well & good if needs must be till humanity gets farther along - but to have them wounded! [[underlined]] Oct. 20 [[/underlined]] As I was thinking that there were only godwits, gulls & sandpipers on the shore this mg - no surf birds I came to the end of the board walk & beyond where the high tide washes up mud & this soft sand is comfortable & the birds can rest disguised - you can't see them at all a short distance off they tour into the ^ [[insertion]] clearly [[/insertion]] humocky surface so well - right before was a big bunch of resting birds - godwits mainly standing on the outside of the circle & nearly 32 surf birds sitting down or standing beyond & in the midst a close bunch of little sandpipers. It was very pretty. When they broke up the sandpipers went off by themselves on the sand. & Sometimes as you look down the beach the big & little birds look like old & young. Once I saw a surf bird fly with a flock of little sandpipers when it the big bird seemed to direct their flight - it turned back as they were [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] [[underlined]] Birds [[/underlined]] going on, & to my surprise they went on a little farther & then wheeled too! Out riding the surf was a flock of about 25 scoters, two terns (probably [[underlined]] hirundo [[/underlined]]) were fishing, & overhead big flocks of ducks strung across - while gulls beat up & down the shore. It was an exciting time - & the strong sea breeze smelled good & the sun shone warm - good after days of fog & cloud. [[underlined]] 21st [[/underlined]] This morning I had a lovely time watching little sanderlings & snowy plover (see notes) Also explored along the mud thickets and saw a flock of meadowlarks singing, a lot of [[superscript]] P.[[/superscript]] [[underlined]] beldingi [[/underlined]] one tule wren - a yellowthroat looking very green, a shrike, & sparrow hawk. Called up a song sp. by whistling its song. Crossing the hard sand dunes reminds you of walking on crust & has something the same exhiliration. There are some pretty sand dune plants here - nice life that radiate out - one with pretty yellow flowers & one with bluish green leafage. As the foot of the dunes there are some queer succulent reddish plants [[image - drawing of part of plant]] all like curls varying from green to dark reddish. Then there are [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Birds [[/underlined]] This afternoon the tide was very low (the moon is full) and the mounds of fresh kelp were all tracked around by the birds. As you looked down the shore, at the water line were scattered big round long-billed godwits & white-breasted gulls, & on the sand back of the water lines of little white-breasted sanderlings like strings of pearls on the sand. Higher up - high & dry were scattered snowy plovers, and now and then, one or two would start & make a run (head lowered) & dab at something - one of the little hopping things that rise from your feet, it would seem. The ocean was a water color - soft shimmering grays and yellows - and the surf below so far out that the roll of it was soft - the soft voice of the ocean - as at other times you get the deep voice. [[underlined]] Oct. 23 [[/underlined]] - This afternoon sanderlings were most in evidence on the beach - a little squad of about 30 in one spot & others up & down ^ [[insertion]] the beach [[/insertion]] running about with a few scattered godwits & surf birds & gulls. Out in the sunpath a flock of surf scoters were rocking over the quiet green rollers, in the white surf lines men with long rakes were 'clamming', standing in the low surf & raking up the clams as they were [[brot?]] in, putting them in a bag carried over their shoulder - A steam launch with [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] tightly rolled sails went hurrying by, and down by the sunlit cliffs at the foot of the bay two schooners with 3 long white sails lay as if at anchor. [[image - three rectangles on a line representing the sails]] A ^ [[insertion]] thin [[/insertion]] black line against a cloud turns into a flock of ducks. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Redondo [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] [[underlined]] Oct. 24. [[/underlined]] Mrs. [[Sluer?]] & I went down to Redondo & on the way one of the long piers was lined along both sides with gulls sitting close. Another pier had gulls ([[underlined]] occidentalis [[/underlined]] & [[underlined]] heermanni [[/underlined]] ) & cormorants. At Redondo people of all sorts & conditions are fishing on the wharf. Colored people, old folks & children - one old woman with, apparently, her grandchild ^ [[insertion]] sitting down on edge [[/insertion]] leaving [[?]] arm out on water. A tramp boat with English flag & Maltese cross on the funnel excited comment. The engineer of the electric power plant (which runs the Los Angeles cars by condensing ocean water for steam) told us that railroad ties are brought over from [[underlined]] Siberia [[/underlined]] by Japanese boats cheaper than they can be brought from the redwood [[bolt?]] up north - because of convict labor. At Redondo we found pebbles being ground and polished for sale & learned that ^ [[insertion]] on [[/insertion]] the beach close by moonstones (coated with limestone) agates & jaspers are picked up - washed in more [[?]] days than others. We walked along for a ways & found people gathering them - man & woman in bathing suit trying to get them - tourists or just ordinary visitors [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Venice [[/underlined]] with a mild interest, explaining to each other about the kinds & one man with an eager ^ [[insertion]] avaricious [[/insertion]] thiefs some-thing-for-nothing look. - too bad the free gifts of the beautiful ocean should be so misused! The Santa Monica Mts. seen from Venice are usually very ordinary, but with mist on them take on 'mystery & magic' and with dark purple haze of some moments are rich & reserved. Venice is a curious place - planned, it would seem, on the exposition idea, with buildings copying Italian architecture & canals (tide water) & lagoons with gondolas to ride in. There is a European exhibit - a Japanese exhibit lent from Portland with big dragons curled on pillars in front - Jap. ball game - bowling - & on the pier a big auditorium with organ & floor for dancing. Electric lights around the towers and festooning the streets made it very pretty at night. Then there is a Midway Plaisance with attractions with which I have not become acquainted, included place shoots for boys & a ^ [[insertion]] wild [[/insertion]] Coney Island housed in Italian style. Fish dinners served by Jap. are one of the attractions. [[end page]]
[[underlined]] Catalina [[/underlined]] Oct. 26. in response to a telegram from Vernon I went in to Los Angeles to meet them on their return from the desert trip. The next mg. - Sunday - we went to Catalina. We took the train at the Pacific Electric station where cars start for Pasadena, Mt. Lowe, all the beaches, Santa Ana etc. The station large enough for a railroad station with big waiting rooms, dining room, etc. and on the barred off entrances to the trains black boards [[image - rectangle shape of black boards]] on which as the train comes a sign appears - next car for Pasadena - or wherever it may be. Here we took an electric car for San Pedro whose harbor we found with a plenitude of masts, & boarded the Hermosa for the Catalina trip. It was a pleasant trip across with the ^ [[insertion]] dark [[/insertion]] purple water (out from the green) and the sea birds flying across the prow, the gulls, the flying fish, and the gentle rocking of the boat. The sea birds were little more than an aggravation - they flew so far away from our sight. The island as we approached looked like a ^ [[insertion]] short [[/insertion]] range of bare mountains & on reaching it the town proved to be set down in a little flat close to the water's edge with hills rising on all sides. After lunch we went up on an endless chain ^ [[insertion]] car [[/insertion]] to the top of a hill and down on the other side with the blue water at our feet, so [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Catalina [[/underlined]] close it looked as if the car would drop right into the ocean. Instead, we stepped out and got into a glass-bottomed [[insertion]] row [[/insertion]] boat. Several of them were waiting for passengers and one that we saw full of people presented a row of ^ [[insertion]] bent [[/insertion]] backs, as all the people were leaning over the glass in the middle. A little awning cut off some of the light and on starting the rower pulled down a flap that cut off a little more. As we bent over the glasses we saw gold fish swimming around above the rocks, most of which were covered with short whitish or other kinds of weed. The most beautiful sight of all was the long streamers of brown kelp - some perhaps 40 ft. long - attached to the stones of the bottom and waving gently ^ [[insertion]] back & forth [[/insertion]] through the green water. One sea weed had purplish flowers that they called 'blue flowers'. Sometimes the kelp rubbed the glass of the boat bottom. Brown spotted fish swam around and as we moved over the water a big fish with bluish body & white gills came in sight and the rower said he was a sheeps'-head, & said they kept the little fish straight! Schools of little fish from pin size up to purple ones & some that the rower called sardines filled the water in [[end page]]
[[underlined]] Catalina [[/underlined]] places. It was like getting a glimpse of another world to look down into the ocean - the big weed - grown rocks, the green water, and the beautiful dark brown kelp growing in forests - more sitting for mermaids. [[superscript]] + [[/superscript]] Abalone shells turned suggestively shiny blue side up appeared at intervals, and a diver ^ [[insertion]] in a bathing suit [[/insertion]] being rowed around dove for these for the people. at 2 bits each. He was an attractive young fellow but after diving a number of times his eyes got bloodshot & he shivered with cold between times. He would look thru the glass of the boat to place the shell & then taking a long breath dive under the boat for it. As we looked down through the green water his body which was dark brown looked ghastly white. When he had the shell we could see him give a little kick with his foot and start up. Then he climbed by hard muscle into the boat. One of the men in our boat asked "What kind of animals lives in them shells?" A larger - steam - boat was better for seeing the marine gardens but we had made the mistake of getting our tickets on the boat for the smaller ones. We were brought back to the harbor by a little launch [[superscript]] + [[/superscript]] 1 starfish & a few holothuriaux were seen [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Catalina [[/underlined]] and found on piles in front of the wharf a large flock of gulls - occidentalis & heermanni sitting. Two loons were there too, diving and swimming right under the noses of all the people. A sea lion with big mustaches was sitting on his tail, his head out of water, apparently looking to be fed. When the photographer got ready to take him he turned a somersault [[image - arrow curving downwards]] and disappeared (see [[underlined]] Larus occidentalis [[/underlined]]) In the Aquarium were star fish , sea anemones, and octopus - horrible creature - & H told of his fight with one in Bermuda - how he tried to get it and it got angry & chased him on the reefs, swimming so much faster than he could that he had to fight it not to have it throw it's arms around him - fight it with barrel staves beating it off. He said it was funny how a thing of that kind would take hold of your imagination - that he sweat blood before he conquered it. He said their strength is tremendous & they put out [[strikethrough]] au [[/strikethrough]] arms and grasp you and hold on with suction discs & then draw the object up and cut it across the back of the neck with thin knives. On the way home the sunset and a 4 masted schooner with sails out sailed across (tacked) [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] Catalina [[/underlined]] [[margin]] Tales of [[underlined]] adventure [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] toward it. Then the light came out in the light house on the point of San Pedro, & H told of light house keepers being nearly blown away in getting to their towers - of a man ^ [[insertion]] who [[/insertion]] coming to relieve another & in climbing up to the tower ^ [[insertion]] holding on to iron bars [[/insertion]] had his legs blown out from under him & flapping back & forth. When he finally got in the other man dared not come out & they both stayed in without food or water till the storm subsided (the food the man had brought was blow out of his hand). He also told - on the way over - of his adventures on the ocean - of the time when he & Mr. Harriman had gone ashore and had to go back in a gasoline launch to the ship and did not know exactly where the ship was - had a very long way still to go & the waves were bad. had to be taken at just such an angle or not at all. When the sailor came up & said the gasoline was nearly gone! They all looked death in the face. Mr. H ordered [[superscript]] search search [[/superscript]] of all the cans & they got in. Another time they were blown out to sea and almost onto boat destroying black rocks. Mr. Harriman took the wheel & saved them. Then he told how Mr. H asked the Capt. of his ship what he'd rather do in all the world & when he said be master of the [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Fernando [[/underlined]] Columbia he said he should. This spring, owing to a fog in which a schooner Capt. instead of following the code of signals acted on his own judgement, the Columbia was run into & a panic ensued. Her captain quieted the people, got them all into life boats & then, with a "God bless you", went down with his ship. All who saw him thru it, said he acted grandly. [[margin]][[underlined]] Oct. 28 [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] We took the noon train south to Fernando where we stayed one night at the Hotel Rey San Fernando. [[underlined]] 29th [[/underlined]] Took a horse & crossed the valley to the Santa Monicas. The low flat part of the Plains are in wheat and we meet numbers of 8 horse freight wagons hauling bags of wheat to a corral where it was stacked in tiers rods long - 3 freight cars on track were loaded with it. In places there were enormous barns & big corrals & ^ [[insertion]] foremens [[/insertion]] houses & implements gang plows & threshers etc. Enormous stacks of baled hay going to waste - falling apart - were seen! fields already plowed were yellow with ^ [[insertion]] clumps of [[/insertion]] sunflowers - poor work. V suggested that the sunflowers or the straw left after heading - could be compressed for fuel. In a country where old oranges & [[underlined]] peach pits [[/underlined]] are burned, [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] Saugus & Soladad Canyon [[/underlined]] The [[Chimera?]] method should be used. We crossed the old road between the missions and saw a bell put up by marked [[underlined]] El Camino Real [[/underlined]] 1769 - 1906 - the road here connecting Santa Barbara, San Fernando, Los Angeles, Capistrano & San Diago missions. Then on up into a gulch leading up into the Santa Monicas and climbed up on the road leading across to Hollywood. [[margin]] Oct [[underlined] 30th [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] Left Fernando about 8 A.M. (train late) & ^ [[insertion]] [[image - footnote symbol]] [[/insertion]] went up there a tunnel to Nordhoff where the English sparrow has come in its way south, and up to Solsgud, where, as there is no daylight train there ^ [[insertion]] the pass [[/insertion]] to the Mojave Desert, Vernon drove as far as he could to determine the zone of the pass, finding it upper sonoran - sagebrush, atriplex, oaks etc. [[margin]] [[underline]] 31th [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] From Fernando we went on to Saugus where we drove up the Francisquito and Solidad Canyon. On the road we met a campus wagon with a square frame covered with tattered cloth - inside a woman & children walking around - & a sewing machine standing. [[image - footnote symbol]] after passing a remarkably handsome ^ [[insertion]] tract of [[/insertion]] olive orchard of the "olive growers association" [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Santa Barbara [[/underlined]] [[margin]] Oct [[underlined]] 31st [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] In the afternoon we went up to Santa Barbara and the next morning Vernon went up the mountain - rode as far as his horse could well carry him & there climbed fast to the top of the highest peak, running most of the way back to the horse till his knees & legs both felt the strain - but made it between 10.30 AM & 4.30 P.M. from the Gregson. Meanwhile I went sight seeing - . [[margin]] [[underlined]] Mission [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] I went first to the mission. The hours at which visitors are received are posted and a Franciscan in brown robe and friars hood ^ [[insertion]] fastened with a [[/insertion]] white cord, with shaved head and bare sandalled feet showed us around. A collection of antiquities included a rawhide bedstead with the tree calf pattern - rawhide stretched tight as a drum on a frame of a bedstead (such as that described in Romona, which Alexandro made for Phillipe) - old style bed for the priests, old illuminated books, one commentary on the books of the Old Testament in 1493, a Prayer book in the Indian language for use of the Abuaki tribes, an ^ [[insertion]] old [[/insertion]] Processional Cross, a grape vine the size of a child's body, two old millstones, images, pictures, indian baskets, watches etc. a queer old piano, & innumerable other curios. Those who went up into tower saw into the ^ [[insertion]] interior [[/insertion]] garden where [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] Santa Barbara [[/underlined]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Mission [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] only Mrs McKinley & the Princess Louise have been allowed to go. The Brother took us into the church now in use. The pilasters painted by the indians in imitation of spanish marble, the ceiling decoration of indian (?Aztec) designs, the old iron hooks from which hung curtains and in the decoration of the church, the large pictures - copies of Murillos brought from Mexico were all pointed out by the Brother. [[superscript]] + [[/superscript]] He then took us to the cemetery in which are buried thousands of indians & whites - full of beautiful [[superscript]] trees & plants & shrubs [[/superscript]] A Brother with a heavy dark blue apron over his robe was working in the garden. A poinsettia tree in the garden ^ [[insertion]] was brilliant color [[/insertion]] but a larger crucifix ^ [[insertion]] & all the multitude of dead [[/insertion]] made it a ghostly place. From the steps of the mission we could look down on the gunboats in the harbor whose lights we had seen in coming in. Rosaries made by the mission, of Job's Tears ^ [[insertion]] dried [[/insertion]] seeds of a plant in the garden, were hanging on the wall by the register for sale. From the mission I walked thru some of the best residence part of the town - saw a park [[superscript]] + [[/superscript]] While we were at the alter a Friar came in with a big vase of fresh poinsettias for the alter [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] San Francisco [[/underlined]] with an English ivy border that was rich & effective - & took the car down to the shore where the 4 gunboats were standing in handsome effect ^ [[insertion]] low [[/insertion]] on the water, with white topped launches running back & forth bringing white - capped or other sailors. On a pier was a notice - Low water, 7 ft. High water, 11 ft. A dead cormorant was lying in the mud on shore & while I was there a ^ [[insertion]] bareheaded [[/insertion]] young man went up the shore with a gun under his arm - nothing was to be seen but one loon & the gulls. At 7.20 P.M. we took the sleeper for S.F. where we arrived [[margin]] [[underlined]] Nov. 1 [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] at 9.30 A.M. At the Townsend St. station we had our introduction to the (?) criminal classes - such faces as one would be most likely to find on that side of the city at this time - types of the bad politicians if nothing worse. Here handsome business buildings - some completed, other in process, alternated with masses of brick & twisted iron, or part of a ^ [[insertion]] brick [[/insertion]] wall, a wrecked tower, or neatly piled bricks. Many of the streets are still unfit for traffic & travel is greatly congested. [[superscript]] + [[/superscript]] The night before election Mr Gilbert & Miss Eastwood dined with us & afterwards we went to Judge [[superscript]] + [[/superscript]] See Keenan's article in Nov. [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] San Francisco [[/underlined]] [[margin]]Labor [[underlined]] Parade [[/underlined]][[/margin]] Hittells to call. The family were out except Carlos the artist & he took us into his workshop where studio properties in form of old guns, horns, & other curios were suggestion material. In the fire he climbed to the top of a church tower with a hose. [[margin]] Labor [[underlined]] Parade [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] As we came out of the house we heard the screeching of an engine in the Labor Parade - something like traction engine carried in the parade. From our distance we could see the glow of ^ [[insertion]] red [[/insertion]] calcium lights that envelope the parade. When we got down to the car lines we found that no cars were running, the cars standing blocks away from the line of the parade, some abandoned by conductors or motormen in well grounded fear. H who had been in S.F. on Labors Day when there were 9 riots in different parts of the city, & the car men had been the targets of the mobs, said with deep feeling that they had all his sympathy, marked men in uniforms, without arms - two men to a mob - helpless. He then told us of the day when he came into S.F. just as the strike breakers - who had been imported to man the street cars & who had not been upheld by the people so that their arms had been taken from them by the police & had forced them out - were [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] San Francisco [[/underlined]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Labor parade [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] being sent back to their homes - were gathered at the station to take the train. Detectives of the labor party had ferreted out the hiding places of these men & knew when they were to be sent away & the mob had gathered. As H entered the ferry house he saw that something was happening in the black mob & then he heard shrieks for mercy, shrieks that he would not have believed it possible for human beings to utter & that he could not get out of his ears for weeks, & answering shouts of "To hell with them!" & the awful sounds of crushing bones of [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] bodies being broken on the stones of the pavements. On Labor Day when the 9 riots occurred H & E stayed in, & when the shrieks of the engine, the shouts of the parade, the cloud of red calcium lights rose. I wished that [[underlined]] we [[/underlined]] had stayed at home. As our way home lay parallel to the line of the parade we could not escape it, & did not know what moment it might turn up our street, & as the street car lines with their standing cars ^ [[insertion]] some abandoned [[/insertion]] were crossed & men came out of the darkness. H wanted to turn in to a Jap. store that stood open, but it was on a corner with a car standing on it's track & its decks (show windows) were closed for fear of action [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] San Francisco [[/underlined]] [[margin]] Car [[underlined]] Riot [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] We got home safely, but at midnight H was wakened by a tumult in the streets & the next mg. the labor paper acknowledged that there had been a car riot & a motor man stabbed in the back so that he would probably die. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Election [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] The election passed off quietly, home [[?]] and the next night we stood on Van Ness with a very orderly crowd reading returns of the Call, that had promised to put out green lights if McCarthy (the anarchist) was elected - returns that read along with line Taylor 14 or Landslide for Taylor in the Labor District. Ryan 1 McCarthey 1 That night as we were returning from dinner in the street car, at the corner of Fillmore we saw a black crowd. I looked up just in time to catch a look of terror on the face of the conductor, & Hart jumped to his feet. A mob? - a riot? But it found only a street fakirs crowd or something of the sort. So instead of being stoned in the car we got out quietly & walked home. But - it was as near the French Revolution condition of affairs as I cared to come. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Academy [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] In spare time I went up to the temporary Academy where Mr Loomis kindly let me look on the [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] San Francisco [[/underlined]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Academy [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] skins. He & his assistant also took me to the old Academy to see the Galapagos collection. We climbed around ruins & rubbish & up across a plank into the shell of the Academy. Then up a hole in the 2 [[superscript]] d [[/superscript]] story floor [[strikethrough]] there [[/strikethrough]] by a temporary wooden staircase. The ship with 11 collectors ^ [[insertion]] & outfit [[/insertion]] had gone to the Galapagos when the fire occurred, so the outfit was saved, & now the collections are back ^ [[insertion]] ready [[/insertion]] for the new Academy. The enormous turtles, the great wingless [[blank space - intended for descriptions of "wingless"]] , and the strange little big - billed [[blank space - intended for description of "big- billed"]] were in large series. It was exceedingly interesting to see the Academy ruin and the types & records saved by the heroism of Miss Eastwood & the rest. Mr. L. pointed up at the ruins of the galleries & told where each exhibit had been, & showed where the biggest fires had came from the library - eating deep - said the library made "beautiful ashes!" And now they are almost ready to move to the new temporary Academy in the Golden State park. From S.F. Vernon was called to Nevada to investigate a Microtus plague & while he went there I went up to Red Bluff to visit Helen. [[margin]] Red [[underlined]] Bluff [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] We crossed the ferry in time for H to put me on the 8.30 train, so I had a daylight - trip up the [[end page]]
[[start page]] [[underlined]] Sacramento Valley [[/underlined]] beautiful bay with its boat, past the Suison marshes with their gun clubs, coots, & ducks, In one place I saw a few Cal. poppies - Escaliolaia [[misspelled, actually Eschscholzia]] in bloom. There were hordes of blackbirds in the S. valley - great flocks. Alfalfa fields, & oaks with horses resting under them, vineyards & orchards with ^[[insertion]] late [[/insertion]] autumnal touches gave variety. The Marysville buttes stood out well as we passed. rising from the level plain. Magpies (yellow-billed) were flying about west of Marysville between there & Arbuckle. Gray moss (short & fine) hung from the oaks in places. Anthus was seen from the train in passing a big plowed field. A 10 horse cultivator was at work & other implements of the same scale. At Orland a group of Canada geese were seen in a yard. At one town an enormous stack of baled hay was canvassed over. Touches of red & yellow gave warmth to the landscape, & meadowlark songs gave freshness. The ^[[insertion]] white [[/insertion]] Lasseu Buttes came in sight - before Mitchell & Shasta was seen white bulk - before reaching Red Bluff. The oak groves at the head of the valley became [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Red Bluff [[/underlined]] Elm like rich groves. At Red Bluff we drove up along the Sacramento - a beautiful wide river that flows swiftly down between autumnal banks - almost an eastern sight - with ^[[insertion]] a [[/insertion]] row boat here & there under the bank & colored grape vines draping trees here & there. The views of the snow-capped Lasseu Buttes gives touch & dignity to the landscape, & in places Shasta looms up in nobility. [[margin]] High [[underlined]] School [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] The inside of the western High School from the point of view of the principal was very interesting. There is no manual training in H.S. or grades, & F is trying to educate the sentiment of the Trustees & business men to introduce it into the H.S. & so force it in the grades - also to introduce a 2 yrs. agricultural course in the H.S. The repellent scholasticism of the schoolman is lost sight of in the Principal who helps you load manure while he is convincing you of the importance of manl. training, & talks poultry to the ranchman while urging the value of an agricultural course. In a community where the livery owner proposes the Principal for the Board of Leader & one of the best mothers allows her H.S. daughters to go to public dances which are free to all characters [[end page]]
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] in the town, where competing basket ball teams carry rough housing to the border of rowdyism, there are many grave problems to be met. W is much as it is in the east, only more so. [[margin]] Scout's [[underlined]] Pass [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] From Red Bluff - where Vernon came there from Nevada - we went on to Scouts Pass, Oregon, [[superscript]] + [[superscript]] & spent a memorable afternoon in the woods at the base of the mountains. [[margin]]Scout's [[underlined]] Pass [[/underlined]] [[/margin]]The clear bracing northern air, the wild country after the city (S.F to the fore) & the dense wet wood with its beautiful madrones with thin smooth red bark with its exquisite blooms like the cheek of a plum, & its brilliant glowing red berries. The ^ [[insertion]] dark [[/insertion]] wooded hills all about with ^ [[insertion]] sections of [[/insertion]] [[speres?]] coming out thru the fog. A charming little girl traveling alone from [[line across page]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Shasta [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] [[superscript]] + [[superscript]] When we woke ^ [[insertion]] after a moonlight ride thru oaks & thru the narrow lava canyon on the [[?]][[/insertion]] the black bulk of Shasta could just barely be made out, in the darkness, but sections of slope - bro't out perhaps by a narrow section of clear sky - told of the volcanic form, & we watched till, as it grew daylight, the noble bulk gradually whitened & cloud caps formed & floated off till we counted 7 little [[image - four small circles indicating clouds]] of cloud cap, just touched with the sunrise color. & the top of the mt. looked down on a sea of white cloud There came the mg in the Siskiyous - beautiful this [[?skirt]] in by fog.
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[margin]] 10 - yr. old [[underlined]] traveller [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] San Francisco to Rosebury had given added interest to the day. 10 yrs. old - how could her parents have let her do it? Oddly enough between whiles, playing with her doll, it came out that she had been born near Watertown, New York! She liked to have someone sit with her in the tunnels and confessed in a lonesome way that she had never travelled alone before. Esther Piassou, Rosebury, Oregon - a dear, sweet, well bred & intelligent child. We were sorry to get off & leave her with unfinished journey. After spending the night at Scout's Pass we took the train again as it came along. At the station we saw a car marked Canadas Greatest Kettle Band or something of that sort & a man with a scotch creased cap on one side with long tails behind. [[margin]] Glen - [[underlined]] wood [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] Our next stop was at Glenwood where we found the Clark Hotel kept by a widow & her son & daughter - a nice, homelike house with well fitted bedroom - clean linen, abundant white spread, etc. & excellent table - used for an eating station. The people in the house were like the family - refined & educated. A Mr. & Mrs. Lannsbury from Portland - cribbage players now taking up a homestead in the mts. were enthusiastic supporters of the administration. We heard here of the failures in Portland due to the financial stringency. Glenwood is a lumber
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Glenwood [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] town. We walked up back of the town, climbed to the reservoir, & followed back along the pipeline thru the dense dark wet woods with noble straight trunked Douglass spruces rising high in the gloom, & little yew trees exciting Vernon's fervour. How he wanted a bow from one! Cushions of green moss on the branches reminded me of [[insertion]] the [[/insertion]] [[Urak?]] Bay forest. A streak of light straying thru made the rest of the woods only the deeper & darker. At the head of the pipe line we came to a small dam & a limpid mt. brook that quenched a whole summer's thirst. It was like the Idyllwild water in the San Jacintos. After climbing up their cold north slope we went across to Cow Creek on the other side of the railroad. The road above this is very troublesome to keep in order all winter on account of the washouts. [[margin]] [[underlined]] Portland [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] Narrow gorges, & tunnels as below. We had had two pleasant days (with only a little drizzle at Grant's Pass) but now it had settled down to rain & we went on thru to Portland arriving there at 11 P.M. We went to the Hotel Oregon & found it a very pleasant house with an excellent tho rather expensive grill. The old Watson Restaurant still keeps up to its standard - & we had steamed clams & fried razor clams.
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Steilacoom [[/underlined]] After doing some necessary shopping in preparation for the rainy country ahead, we went on, without having had a glimpse of any mountain. We reached Tacoma before daylight - & while Vernon went on to North Yakima & Pasco, I went out to Steilacoom to see L.A.H.C. A trolley ride there then cut one spruce, with palettes of noble timber leads out beyond Chambers Creek to an opening on the sound just above the village of Steilacoom. A 'ladder' a long flight of steps leads up there thru the wooded side of the cliff to the house which stands on the edge of the bluff & looks off on the snow capped Olympics (when the clouds lift) & down on the fishing boats that gather at the foot of the bluff. [[margin]] Salmon [[underlined]] fishing [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] It was interesting to watch the salmon fishers. These are about 20 [[insertion]] fishing [[/insertion]] boats. Steam [[insertion]] (?) [[/insertion]] launches are used now, but formerly the boats were rowed & the men sang when they took in the nets. Each launch is accompanied by a row boat & [[insertion]] at a certain time of the tide [[/insertion]] when the fish are seen the men who stand looking down into the water, the row boat anchors & the launch circles out, paying out the net till they get around to the row boat again, completing their circle. It is a pretty sight to see several of these big circles of floats like beads of a necklace with a blue or green or white fishing boat. [[strikethrough]] As [[/strikethrough]] When the net is paid out a man [[insertion]] stands [[/insertion]] with a long
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[margin]] [[underlined]] Steilacoom [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] pole and drives the fish away from the gap between the two sides of the net. The net is hauled in apparently partly by machine, partly by hand & when it is gathered in the row boat comes up on the other side & the fish are [[image - net]] picked out of the net & thrown into the rowboat. Then when the boats from Tacoma come to buy the fish they are counted aloud as they are thrown in one at a time - a shining silver fish - from the top of the bluff above. When it rains the men have oil skins, & they wear oilskin aprons for the wet part of the work in all weathers. The Olympia boat plies back & forth in sight. Enormous fern fronds in the woods tho dead now hint at the luxurious growth of summer. [[margin]] [[/underlined]] Tacoma [[/underlined]] [[/margin]] To be ready for a telegraphic call from Vernon, I came in to the Tacoma Hotel the day before Thanksgiving. The hotel was crowded with Shriners (some with dress suit & red fez with a crescent!) & between the trains & the late hours of the Shriners & the noisy drunken talk of my next door neighbour who was put to bed at midnight by a [[insertion]] Jap. [[/insertion]] bell boy, the night was not a peaceful one. The shouts & excitations & loud talk of the beast next day got too much in the mg. & I changed my room.
[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Tacoma [[/underlined]] [[underlined]] Thanksgiving [[/underlined]] - As it was not raining this morning I took a walk about the residence part of the town up on the top of the bluff, which is graded back from the the Sound in terraces of streets. The [[insertion]] best [[/insertion]] residence part is homelike & attractive, or would be if it were not for the dampness which makes [[insertion]] almost [[/insertion]] everything look black & water soaked. The High School is such a large, pretentious building I mistook it for a college. The ships in the Sound make a pleasing picture. The clouds lifted enough to show the platform of the mountain - Rainier - dark blue with snow streaks on the higher reaches, but the veil before the peak was not lifted. Among the list of blessings the Thanksgiving editorials include the fact that the Union Pacific has been work, that the Milwaukee & St Paul is making progress, & that the North Bank line is nearly completed "thankful that the turkey does not roost too high for the clearing house certification" & concludes "Take it all in all, nearly everyone everywhere has some reason for thankfulness, [[underlined]] even if he should live in Seattle [[/underlined]] !" A R.R. is coming from Olympia along the Sound past Stielacoom. [[underlined]] Nov. 29 [[/underlined]] At breakfast I heard the head waiter telling some people about the mountain & for an instant had a
glimmering hope that it might be visible, but discarded the thot as it was still heavily overclouded. On leaving the dining room I went to the office window and - there it stood in all its grandeur! The sun rose on its shoulders & the mountain stood out dark against a coppery background that was reflected in the sound. White mist rising from the deep canyons below the snow line of the flank made the mountain seem higher. As I went out to Stielacoom - knowing that there might be further delay - the mountain was white between the spruces, & as I took the train from Tacoma the next day the afternoon light touched [[strikethrough]] it [[/strikethrough]] up its snowy sides giving life to it. Vernon joined me at Pasco, & we got off a Spokane to try to get the lost camera. Spokam is a most satisfactory town. It has an air of freshness, newness in the up-to-date sense - substantial business blocks, stores that reflect the business activity - great mills along the falls. It seems a live modern city like Minniapolis & St Paul without the old growth. Took the sleeper that night (Sunday) and went on there as far as Bismark. U.D. We crossed Idaho the first night and spent the day & second night in Montana. At [[end page]] [[start page]] Missoula, where it was frosty - trees & grass & reeds white with it - in waiting for a freight wreck & finally passed on one side the wreckage and on the other a new ^ [[instertion]] coffin [[/insertion]] box in a lumber wagon by a newly made grave - ahead the poster giving gruesome details. From Missoula we began climbing the Rocky Mts. going thro Hillgate Canyon & climbing gradually up on a broad topped low pass - here & there mt. meadows & ^[[insertion]] g't [[/insertion]] stands of narrow murray pine. Came down onto big plains & passed thru Helma, & at dusk - Livingston - which surprised us by its station till we learned that it was the starting point for the Yellowstone. The next mg. we woke near the boarder line of North Dakota & until we reached Bismark were in the bad land country, with coal seams - surface coal - red banks baked by burning coal strata. In one place we passed an enormous dump of lignite coal by the track - uncovered - to be sold to the people - no other fuel. Montana - plains - Dakota - prairie. Montana - gulelus with trees & bushes. Dakota - [[coulers?]] without trees or bushes - in the main. [[underlined]] North Dakota [[/underlined]] Bismark. We stopped off for the zone map at Bismark on the east side of the Missouri. The air was cold but bracing
and stimulating. The street pumps are banked with manure. In the thickets along the river V found fresh deer tracks. From Bismark we went back to Mandan - where a blind pig had just been raided - and crossed a small stream on the ice. On the local trains were men seen with fur coats & caps. From Mandan we went east, reaching Elk Run before daylight. From there we went to Minneap. & at St. Paul got a sleeper for Chicago. Delay on account of a freight wreck kept us in Chicago all the afternoon & we visited the Art Institute which we were surprised to find such a worthy mature form of the Metropolitan Museum. Leaving Chicago at 5 P.M. we got into Washington about 24 hrs. later - coming in at the new Union Station, this filled with scaffolding.
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