Travelog of 1962-1963 South American trip

Travelog

To Doris from Mildred + Wanda 11/16/62

TRIP Book Artamount NEW YORK

[[start page]] CONTENTS WAYS TO TRAVEL HIKING 4 AUTOMOTIVE VEHICLES 4 TRAINS 4 PLANES 4 PLANNING YOUR TRIP ITINERARY 5 PASSPORTS AND VISAS 5 IMMUNIZATION 5 MONEY, HOW TO CARRY 6 CLOTHES 7 BAGGAGE 7 THESE UNITED STATES NORTHEAST 8 SOUTHEAST 8 CENTRAL 9 SOUTHWEST 9 NORTHWEST 10 ALASKA 10 HAWAII 11 NATIONAL PARKS 11 GREAT LAKES AND NIAGARA FALLS 15 PORTO RICO 16 CANADA FRENCH CANADA, QUEBEC 16 MARITIME PROVINCES 16 CANADIAN ROCKIES 17 CANADIAN CITIES 17 2 [[end page]] [[start page]] CONTENTS—(Continued) INDIANS OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA ARCHEOLOGY 17 CEREMONIES 17 ARTS 17 LATIN AMERICA MEXICO 18 THE WEST INDIES 19 BERMUDA 19 PANAMA 20 SOUTH AMERICA ARGENTINA 20 BRAZIL 20 PARAGUAY AND URUGUAY 21 CHILE 21 BOLIVIA AND PERU 21 THE INCAS 21 ECUADOR AND COLUMBIA 22 VENEZUELA 22 CUSTOMS OF THE UNITED STATES TRAVEL OUTSIDE THE UNITED STATES 22 MISCELLANEOUS STATE NICKNAMES AND FLOWERS 14 ALTITUDES IN THE UNITED STATES AND POSSESSIONS 22 PRINCIPAL AMERICAN LAKES AND GREAT LAKES 23 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION 24 3 [[end page]]

[[start page]] TRAVEL IN THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE You have decided to go on a trip―the Continental United States, Alaska, Hawaii, Canada, Latin America, or Bermuda―wherever you go; however you travel; you are going to have a good time. In the following text you will find GENERAL suggestions: ways to travel; regulations to be met; what to take; what to see; suggested background and reading. WAYS TO TRAVEL In ways to travel you have a wide choice: on your own feet; by automobile or motorcycle; by bus; by train; by air; by boat. There are trails for hiking such as the Appalachian in eastern United States, the longest marked trail in the world, extending from Mt. Katahdin in Maine to Mount Oglethorpe in Georgia; or, on the west coast the Pacific Crest Trail system, which will eventually stretch over two thousand miles from Canada to Mexico, through national forests and parks. There are the automotive vehicles: passenger cars, motorcycles, busses. If you travel by road, there are many fine ones throughout the Unites States and Canada, and the international highways such as the Alcan and the Pan American. The AAA, the big companies which supply our gasoline needs, maintain travel bureaus or touring services, which will mark out your routes for you, directing you to the most direct ways, with excellent maps. The service is free of charge―just tell them where and when you wish to go. There are the trains: the new comfortable coaches with their reclining chairs, their lounges, their cafeterias and diners; the roomettes, drawing rooms with attendant facilities, will take you all over the Western Hemisphere in unbelievable comfort. There is the air: this newest and, for some travelers, the most glamorous of ways to travel, offers the advantages of speed, comfort and convenience. If time is of the essence, this is the way to get where you want to go and back in the allotted time you have for travel. 4 [[end page]] [[start page]] PLANNING YOUR TRIP Your itinerary will be planned according to your own personal interests and desires. You may be able to plan your own with such additional help as your automobile, railroad, or steamship services will render you. If not, travel bureaus, the AAA, and other services will be glad to help you. The AAA, bus companies, gasoline companies, railroads, steamship and airline companies, all have conducted tours, as do the travel agencies. PASSPORTS AND VISAS. You will need passports if you travel in foreign countries in the Western Hemisphere. Some of these countries require visas, some do not, but the situation changes without notice and you should inquire carefully about the conditions in the particular country to which you go, at the time when you plan to be there. Certain countries require only a tourist card for the vacationer, for a specified time spent in the particular country. Allow plenty of time to obtain your passport. Apply at the Passport Divisions of the State Department in New York, Miami, San Francisco or Washington. Or you may apply to the Clerk of any U. S. District Court or State Court authorized by law to naturalize aliens. You will need two passport photographs, your birth certificate, a letter stating the purpose of your visit, a friend of at least two years' standing, and $10.00. Your passport, once issued to you, is good for two years and may be renewed. Ordinarily you will not need a passport for Canada and Bermuda, just identification of citizenship; vacationers in Cuba do not need a passport, but persons on business do; Mexico allows entrance for two weeks' time on tourist card, otherwise a passport is needed. For all other foreign countries a passport is needed. IMMUNIZATION. These "shots" are important. Some countries demand specific ones, so be sure to check this requirement. You must have a smallpox vaccination certification showing evi- 5 [[end page]]

[[start page]] [[evi]]dence of satisfactory vaccination against smallpox "within three years prior to arrival or evidence of a previous attack of smallpox." You can't get back in the United States without it! In the Western Hemisphere there are certain exceptions: in the absence of smallpox at the port of departure or on board the carrier, persons are exempt from this requirement when they depart from Canada, Newfoundland, the Island of St. Pierre or Miquelon, Iceland, Greenland, the West Coast of Lower California, Cuba, the Bahamas, the Canal Zone or Bermuda. But it would still be well to check! YOUR MONEY. A certain amount in cash is advisable for immediate use. Carry this in several pockets and in a travel belt. For going abroad your travel agent will advise you how much to carry. Otherwise, for the general traveler, travelers' checks are the more convenient and safe. They may be obtained from your bank or travel agency in different denominations for about seventy-five cents per hundred dollars. It is always better to keep the denominations small so that you will be able to cash them more easily, and if in a foreign country, so that you will not have more money of that currency than you need for your stay in that particular country. There are two places on each check to sign: one when you receive your checks; one when you cash the check in the presence of the person who cashes it. If your checks are lost, notify the nearest office of the organization which issued them to you. Wherever possible cash your checks at banks or travel bureaus, especially in foreign countries. They will give you nearly the current rate of exchange. Letters of credit show that you have deposited certain amounts of money with an issuing bank or company. In order to obtain money on letters of credit you have to present yourself and identification to the foreign branch of the company which issued the letter of credit. This representative of your bank or company will then make due note of the amount withdrawn on your letter of credit after you have signed your draft. 6 [[end page]] [[start page]] CLOTHES AND BAGGAGE. Consider your clothes carefully. You must travel "light" and if you go by air the number of pounds you are allowed to take is a definite sixty-six for foreign travel, forty for the United States, and this includes the weight of your luggage too. Leave some space for extras: purchases on your trip and other emergencies. Fit your wardrobe to your type of trip. You may need more of one kind of clothing than another. In general, clothes made of nylon, jersey or tweed are practical. They don't crush and they do not take up too much room. Take the type of clothes which can be interchanged to make different costumes for variety. Be sure to take into consideration the climate into which you are going and the season of the year so that your clothing will meet your comfort as well as your social needs. According to where you go, for both men and women: a good pair of sunglasses, drinking cups, special medicines and antiseptics, sewing kit, pen and other personal attentions to comfort should be considered. If you wear glasses take an extra pair and your prescription. Register cameras of foreign make before leaving the country with customs so you will not have to pay duty on them on your return. Your baggage should be adequate, sturdy and not too heavy. If you travel by air, remember that the weight of your baggage must be included in that sixty-six or forty pounds. In any case it is always better to be able to carry your baggage: you may not be able to find a porter or your car may break down! Baggage going by plane or ship should be sent there at least twenty-four hours before departure. Obtain labels for your baggage from plane or ship. For the boat mark it "wanted" or "hold." Do not lose your claim checks and be sure that your baggage is with you on plane or ship. It is recommended that all baggage be insured. In general, confine yourself to the smallest amount of baggage possible to supply your needs. A small overnight kit for freshening up purposes may be taken with you on the plane. One 7 [[end page]]

of the large pouch shoulder bags is convenient for women; a brief or dispatch case for men. Keep it with you. THESE UNITED STATES This is a vast country, extending across a continent, with traditions, ways of speech and living distinct. Historically, all sections have their own story to tell; in natural wonders and scenery, all sections are individual. In the northeast, agriculture and industry have supported large cities and concentrated wealth and trade. Here are historic shrines: Boston and its surrounding area offers the traveler many sites filled with memories of the early settlement of the United States and of the American Revolution and is the home of Harvard University, oldest in the United States. New York, that vast and thriving seaport at the mouth of the Hudson River, largest city of the the world, with its skyscrapers is unique. International center of finance and culture, it is also the home of the United Nations. Philadelphia, with its Liberty Bell and historical and quaint buildings, is not only one of the largest cities of our country, but, with New York, was one of our early capitals. Here our Constitution was written, here Benjamin Franklin lived. Throughout all the states of the region, sports of all kinds; vacation spots to satisfy every individual taste abound. The Southeast again is dotted with historic sites and magnificent scenery. Here developed the plantation system based on tobacco and cotton dependent on slaver in its early stages, the slavery which was to bring on one of the great and tragic struggles of the world, our Civil War. In the northern part of this section is Washington, our national capital, said to be one of the most beautifully laid out cities in the world. Government buildings, national monuments and shrines, museums, art galleries, draw visitors year around. Williamsburg, faithfully restored, reflects the life of colonial America; St. Augustine, 8 [[end page]] [[start page]] the oldest of our cities, holds memories and monuments of Spanish occupation; New Orleans, at the mouth of the Mississippi, while really in the region of the central part of the country, belongs to the Old South. It is famous for its Mardi Gras; its French-Spanish history; its fine cookery. Florida, internationally famed playground, offers sports of all kinds, winter and summer, and beautiful beaches. From the Alleghenies to the Rockies stretch the great plains of the United States. This is the breadbasket of the country, with its wheat and cornfields golden in the harvest. In the southern section, oil, black gold, flows out of the ground, bringing riches and power for industry. Cotton, too, forms one of the basic crops. The plains of the western and southern half of this section support the large and flourishing cattle industry. Underneath the northeastern part of our Middle West and overlapping into the east, occur the great coal beds which supply industry and the people with fuel, power and light. Here, too, is old; and around the Great Lakes are rich iron ore deposits. The cities of this vast region are many and modern: Chicago, the Great Lakes seaport, capable of being linked by a chain of lake and river waterways to the Atlantic; Detroit, Cleveland, St. Louis, and Minneapolis, amoung others, great industrial and agricultural centers, with their products of automobiles, planes, grains, and other products; Fort Worth, city of the Texas cattle industry, with its annual rodeo; Dallas, combining industry and cattle; Houston, tidewater port of the Gulf of Mexico, the largest cotton shipping center in the United States, the largest oil shipping port in the world. The southwest, settled first by Spain, with its chain of missions, is romantic and spectacular. here lie the great American deserts; the towering Rocky Mountains; the Grand Canyon; Death Valley; the ghost towns of the silver and gold booms. Here, also, in California, lies the great Imperial Valley, noted for its luscious citrus fruits. Here is a huge mining and cattle industry. Here, also, is another vacation land such as on the east coast, 9

with beautiful beaches, mountain lakes, sunner desert oases. And here, too, lies the great movie industry center. Among the cities of interst in this section are: Salt Lake City, home of the Mormon faith; Los Angeles-Hollywood, of movie fame, Denver, in the mining country; Sante Fe, historic end of the Sante Fe Trail, and a center of art and Indian lore of the southwest. The northwest, in which we inclue Northern California, again has much to offer the traveler in beautiful scenery and historic sites. This is a cattle country; a dairy country; a great agriculture country; a great lumber country; a great mining country. In Oregon came to an end of the famous Oregon Trail, blazed by Lewis and Clark, later the highway to the northwest. In northern California occurred one of the most famous of the gold rushes of history; and one of the most disastrous earthquakes. Along the Pacific Coast is one of the great scenic highways of the world running through scenes of incomparable beauty. The cities of this region are modern and prosperous: San Francisco, important in the Gold Rush, with its beautiful harbor entered through the Golden Gate, is an important naval base and commercial port, and uniquely interesting and beautiful; Berkeley, site of the largest of our universities, the University of California; Portland, Oregon, City of Roses; Seattle, Washington, great port and shipping center. The two newest states to be admitted to our union are Alaska and Hawaii. One known as 'Seward's Folly' after the Secretary of State who was instrumental in purchasing it, Alaska has become one of the most valuable possesssions of the United States. It is noted for its fishing and seal industries; for its mines; for its fertile soil. It is also noted for its spectacular scenery: high snowcapped peaks of the Rockies; huge glaciers; flower covered valleys; immense snowfields. In its comparatively small area the climate ranges from the intense cold of the 10 [[end page]] [[start page]] polar regions to the more moderate of the north temperate zones. Alaska is one of the last frontiers of our coutnry and an outpost of our defense. It has had a colorful history; and has today a cosmopolitan population. It may be reached by boat, plane, or the Alcan Highway. Juneau, its capital, is in the mining district; Fairbanks, a modern town in a mining and agricultural district is the seat of the University of Alaska; Ketchikan, the southernmost town, is the center of the copper, gold, silver and platinum mining district. The Hawaiian, or Sandwich Islands, are a mid-Pacific chain, centrally distand form four continents. These are tropical islands, dominated by mountain ranges, many peaks of which are volcanoes. The trees and plants are tropical. The native Hawaiians are of the brown races of the Pacific. In this land, sugar and pineapple reign. The beautiful scenery, exotic atmosphere, friendly people, make Hawaii and ideal vacation spot. Surf riding, one of the unique sports of Hawaii, is an exciting atrraction. Honolulu, on the inland of Oahu, is the principal city and port. It offers excellent hotels, shops, beautiful beaches and a well-planned tourist program. OUR NATIONAL PARKS. Our National Park System is administered through our National Park Service, which has constructed roads, trails, and free public campsites where necessary throughout the areas of the country coming under its control. Other facilities, such as hotels, lodges, cabins, and bus transportation are provided by private concessionaires. Rangers provide protection to the parks; guides are available, naturalists or historians give talks and conduct tours. Fishing is allowed in some areas, governed by state laws and licenses, but hunting is not permitted. Information concerning the parks may be obtained from the Superintendent of the particular area or from the Director, National Park Service, United States Department of the 11

Interior, Washington 25, D.C. A list of these parks and their outstanding features follows: Acadia, Maine (1919), 28,308. Rugged coastal area on Mount Desert Island and nearby mainland. Big Bend, Texas (1944), 691,339. Mountains and desert in the great bend of the Rio Grande. Bryce Canyon, Utah (1928), 36,010. Grotesque fairyland of rock formations in many colors. Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico (1930), 45,527. Vast caverns with magnificent and curious formations. Crater Lake, Oregon (1902), 160,290. Deep blue lake in the heart of extinct volcano. Everglades, Florida (1947), 271,008. Subtropical swamps and prairies. Rich bird and animal life. Glacier, Montana (1910), 997,248. Rocky mountain scenery with glaciers and lakes. Park of Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park established, 1932. Grand Canyon, Arizona (1919), 645,296. Mile deep gorge. World's most titanic example of erosion. Grand Teton, Wyoming (1929), 94,893. Majestic peaks, picturesque lakes, an unspoiled wilderness. Great Smoky Mountains, North Carolina, Tennessee (1930), 461,004. Loftiest mountains east of the Black Hills, virgin forests. Hawaii (1916), 173,405. Active volcanoes, tropical vegetations, fern forests. Hot Springs, Arkansas (1921), 1,019. Forty-seven mineral hot springs said to have therapeutic value. Isle Royale, Michigan (1940), 133,839. Great wilderness island in Lake Superior; moose herd. Kinds Canyon, California (1940), 452,905. Mountains, canyons, groves of giant sequoias. 12 [[end page]] [[start page]] Lassen Volcanic, California (1916), 103,269. Only recently active volcano in United States proper. Mammoth Cave, Kentucky (1936), 50,585. Historic series of caverns. Underground river. Mesa Verde, Colorado (1906), 51,018. Large numbers of Indian cliff dwellings and other ruins. Mount McKinley, Alaska (1917), 1,939,319. Highest mountain in North America. Unusual wildlife. Mount Rainier, Washington (1899), 241,525. Greatest single peak glacial system in United States. Olympic, Washington (1938), 846,719. Mountain wilderness, rain forests, Roosevelt elk. Platt, Oklahoma (1906,) 912. Cold mineral springs with distinctive properties. Rocky Mountain, Colorado (1915), 252,788. Magnificent section of Rocky Mountains. Sequoia, California (1890), 385,100. Groves of giant sequoias. Mount Whitney, highest in United States. Shenandoah, Virginia (1935), 193,473. Scenic portion of Blue Ridge Mountains with Skyline Drive. Wind Cave, South Dakota (1903), 26,583. Limestone caverns in Black Hills; buffalo herd. Yellowstone, Wyoming - Montana - Idaho (1872), 2,213,207. World's greatest geyser area; spectacular falls and canyon; lakes; abundant wildlife. Yosemite, California (1890), 756,441. Inspiring gorge with sheer granite cliffs; waterfalls, three groves of giant sequoias; high sierras. Zion, Utah (1919), 94,241. Multicolored gorge in southern Utah's desert and canyon country. (The area above given in acres; source map of RECREATIONAL AREAS OF THE UNITED STATES.) 13

[[start page]] STATES NICKNAME STATE FLOWER Alabama Cotton State Goldenrod Alaska Forget-me-not Arizona Sunset Land or Apache State Sahara Cactus Arkansas The Wonder State Apple Blossom California The Golden State Golden Poppy Colorado Centennial State Columbine Connecticut Nutmeg State Mountain Laurel Delaware Blue Hen State or Diamond State Peach Blossom District of Columbia Florida Peninsula State Orange Blossom Georgia Cracker State Cherokee Rose Hawaii Aloha State Hibiscus Idaho Gem State Syringa Illinois Sucker State The Violet Indiana The Hoosier State Tulip Tree Blossom Iowa The Hawkeye State Wild Rose Kansas The Sunflower State Sunflower Kentucky Blue Grass State Goldenrod Louisiana The Pelican State Magnolia Maine Pine Tree State Pine Cone Maryland The Old Line State Black-eyed Susan Massachusetts Bay State May Flower Michigan Wolverine State Apple Blossom Minnesota North Star State Moccasin Flower Mississippi Bayou State Magnolia Missouri Show-Me-State Hawthorn Montana Stub-Toe-State Bitter Root Nebraska Cornhusker State Goldenrod Nevada The Silver State Sagebrush New Hampshire Granite State Purple Lilac New Jersey The Garden State New Mexico Sunshine State Yucca New York Empire State Rose 14 [[end page]] [[start page]] STATES NICKNAME STATE FLOWER North Carolina Tar Heel State Oxeye Saisy North Dakota Flickertail State Wild Prairie Rose Ohio Buckeye State Scarlet Carnation Oklahoma Boomer State Mistletoe Oregon Beaver State Oregon Grape Pennsylvania Keystone State Mountain Laurel Rhode Island Little Rhody Violet South Carolina Palmetto State Yellow Jasmine South Dakota Sunshine State Pasque Tennessee Volunteer State Iris Texas Lone Star State Bluebonnet Utah Beehive State Sego Lily Vermont Green Mountain State Red Clover Virginia Old Dominion State Dogwood Washington Evergreen State Rhododendron West Virginia Panhandle State Rhododendron Wisconsin Badger State Violet Wyoming Equality State Indian Paintbrush GREAT LAKES AND NIAGARA FALLS. On the border between Canada and the United States, lie the five great bodies of water, Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario, the Great Lakes, great avenues of trade, on the shores of which are large cities. These lakes are also the scene of many happy vacation cruises. Superb scenery, luxurious boats, lazy days, bring relaxation and pleasure. For those interested in the history of the region: these lakes were the center of the great inland fur trade and the scene of the self-sacrificing missionaries of the great religious orders. They were also the scene of the bloody battles with the Indians and other foe in the turbulent days of the settling of the continent. At the eastern end of Lake Ontario is the outlet of the Great Lakes and one of the wonders of the modern world, Niagara Falls. Long famed as a honeymoon resort, this magnificent spectacle draws thousands of visitors annually. The Horseshoe Falls of the Canadian side are 155 feet high while the American 15 [[end page]]

falls are 162 feet high. One of the interesting trips here is the visit to the cave under that falls, an awe-inspiring experience. PORTO RICO. Porto Rico, or Puerto Rico, discovered by Columbus explored by Ponce de Leon, of the fountain of youth fame, is our possession in the romantic region of the Spanish Main. San Juan, its capital, with its beautiful harbor, beckons to the traveler to come and share its excellent hotels, beautiful scenery, glorious climate, in a scene romantically historic. Sports of all kinds, day trips to other islands, and enticing shops are added attractions. CANADA To the north of the United States, across the longest unfortified border in the world, lies our sister nation, Canada. Extending from the Atlantic to the Pacific, from the United States to the North Pole, Canada is the largest country in the western hemisphere. Once part of a French Empire, Canada has a large French population centered in the province of Quebec, which retains many of the customs and ways of life in France. Here the visitor will see oxen drawing carts; the sloping-roofed houses; the wayside shrines; outdoor circular ovens. Quebec city combines reminders of its French origin in its lower town under the cliff on top of which rises the great Hotel Frontenac, and echoes of early English settlement in the little house where the Duke of York once lives. Further up the St. Lawrence lies Montreal, a large, modern city, home of McGill University. In the east are the Maritime Provinces, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island. Nova Scotia holds interest for the traveler, both for its romance and history. Here is the home of Evangeline; here also in Annapolis Royal we have a settlement older than our Jamestown. Halifax, with its beautiful harbor, its citadel, is the largest city of the region, with St. John, at the mouth of the river of the same name, second in size. These provinces are famous vacation lands. The Bay of Fundy, with the highest tides in the world, produces the natural wonders of the reversible falls at St. John and the tidal bore of 16 [[end page]] [[start page]] the Peticodiac River. Deep sea fishing combines with trout and salmon fishing on such famous rivers as the Restigouche, Mirimachi, St. John and the Tobique. In the fall, the hunting claims the attention of sportsmen, with deer, moose, bear and partridge as they prey. Beautiful beaches, lovely lakes, attract the traveler. Linked to the east by a system of modern railways, the Canadian Rockies of the west are another famous vacationland. Jasper Park with its snowcapped mountains, its snowfields and glaciers, sparkling waterfalls and lakes, luxurious hotel, offers swimming, golf, tennis, horseback riding and other sports. Rocky Mountain Park, with Lake Louise, near Banff, is another favorite vacation spot. Mountain climbing with experienced guides is an added attraction. Canada's modern cities: Toronto, Ottawa, the capital, Winnipeg, Vancouver, offer excellent hotels, shopping and other attractions. INDIANS OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA The Indians of the United States and Canada command the attention of every traveler throughout those two countries. Archaeological remains, such as those of the cliffdwellers of the southwest and the mound builders of the Mississippi Valley, among other interesting sites, deserve the attention given them by the discriminating traveler. The seasonal ceremonies of different sections, some of which are open to outsiders, present an unforgettable experience for those able to witness them. The American Indian, in all sections of these countries which once belonged to him, has much to offer in his interpretation of the lives of his ancestors and in his endeavors to reproduce for you inspection and purchase, the arts which made them famous. According to the section which you visit, you will find pottery, blankets, jewelry, and other products for sale. 17

[[start page]] LATIN AMERICA Below the Rio Grande and the states bordering the Gulf of Mexico, you enter a completely foreign land ―foreign in language, history and customs. Many of the people of Latin America are of native Indian stock. Others are descendants of the Spaniards and Portuguese who settled these regions and who created from them extensive and wealthy colonial empires. These countries, early in the nineteenth century, broke away from the mother countries, and formed the independent nations we know today. MEXICO. The country immediately south of us, Mexico, has had an interesting history. Conquered by Cortez, it became one of the important outposts of the Spanish empire. From its settlements were sent those missionaries who settled much of our southwest. Its capital, Mexico City, contains the oldest university on the North American continent. The city is noted for its many beautiful parks, buildings and avenues; and is a center of the art and culture of this section of Latin America. Its museum contains the famous calendar stone of the Aztecs. Other monuments of that interesting people from whom Cortez wrested control are either in the city or within easy reach. The Pyramids of Teotihuacan, the floating gardens of Xochimilco, are constant attractions for the visitor. The markets of Mexico City are most interesting and on successive days are devoted to the distinctive products of different cities and towns. Other cities of Mexico which you may wish to visit are: Acapulco, on the Pacific coast, famous seaside resort; Puebla, center of the tile-making industry; Tehuacan, of the mineral springs; Oaxaca, noted for its archeological monuments and its great Indian markets; Taxco and Guanjuato, silver centers; Mazatlan, picturesque seaport; Cuernavaca, beautiful city very near Mexico City itself. Of special interest to persons interested in natural phenomena, is Paricutin, volcano which has had its beginning in our century. Sports which the visitor to Mexico may enjoy are the bullfighting with the season from October to March; JAI ALAI, that 18 [[end page]] [[start page]] fast, exciting Spanish ball game; and charro riding and roping which takes place every Sunday in Chapultepec Park. One special section of Mexico is of special interest to the tourist who is interested in the civilizations of the American Indian. At Chichen Itza, and extending from this site in Yucatan into Guatemala, are the great monuments of the Mayas, that most highly developed civilization of the Indians of the hemisphere. The Mayan civilization has been compared to that of the ancient Greeks. Their priests were accomplished astronomers and mathematicians; their builders and artists have left remarkable monuments to their art. These Indians had a well-developed system of hieroglyphics, and an organized calendar. Chichen Itza has accommodations for travelers, and is well worth a visit. THE WEST INDIES. The romantic setting, the beautiful climate, the quaint cities, make the West Indies of the Spanish Main a wonderful spot for a vacation. You may reach this vacationland by plane or boat. You may go to one place for your entire stay, or you may go on one of the delightful Caribbean cruises, stopping at several ports. This is the land of Columbus, the Spanish conquistadors, Sir Henry Morgan and his fellow buccaneers, and the black Napoleon, Toussaint L'Ouverture. Havana, capital of Cuba, 'pearl of the Antilles,'; Kingston, capital of Jamaica, 'the most beautiful island in the world,'; Nassau, capital of the Bahamas; Port au Prince, capital of Haiti; Curacao, of the Netherlands West Indies; are just a few of the places which offer you beautiful scenery, exotic flowers, sports of all kinds, including exciting deepsea fishing, dancing under tropical stars, swimming in the blue Carribean or bathing in limpid mountain pools. You may visit the ramparts of the Spaniards; you may visit the haunts of pirates; you may visit sugar plantations; you may see where famous rums and liqueurs are made; you may shop. BERMUDA. While not a part of the West Indies, this crown colony of Great Britain, in the Atlantic only about six hundred miles from New York, offers much the same attractions. This 19 [[end page]]

[[start page]] group of islands, discovered by the Spaniard, Juan Bermudez in the sixteenth century, offers an ideal climate the whole year; excellent golf courses, hotels and beaches; quaint scenes, with vari-colored houses and beautiful flowers and foliage. There are few automobiles on the island, making a peaceful, leisurely existence. St. George, its first capital, and Hamilton, the present capital, are the principal towns. PANAMA, crossroads of the world, is the link between the continents of the Western Hemisphere, and, through the Panama Canal, joins the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Panama City, at the Pacific end of the canal, is one of the most cosmopolitan cities of the world. Here the traveler finds people from all over the world and the shops reflect in their wares this diversity of population. Panama City is of interest in its beauty and its history. One of the ports of Spain's great silver fleet, and center of trade for the empire, it was taken and sacked by Sir Henry Morgan in one of the most spectacular feats of the era of the buccaneers. Today it is a port of call for all ships passing through the canal, and is the capital of the Republic of Panama. SOUTH AMERICA At the eastern end of the Isthmus of Panama begins the continent of South America. Its northern part lies athwart the equator, its jungles drained by the mighty Amazon River; its southern tip is cold, bleak and stormy. The continent contains ten independent countries and the Guianas, British, French, and Dutch. ARGENTINA is a great cattle raising and agricultural country. Its gauchos are the picturesque cowboys of the pampas, where yerba mate is the favored drink. Buenos Aires, a modern up-to-date city, is its capital. Wide avenues, beautiful churches and other buildings make it one of the outstanding cities of the world. BRAZIL, land of coffee, rubber, diamonds and orchids, is the largest of the South American countries. Its beautiful capital, 20 [[end page]] [[start page]] Rio de Janeiro, is unique among the cities of the world. Situated on one of the world's finest harbors, lively and gay, this city is the former seat of a branch of the royal family of Portugal. It combines a charming air of tradition with modern living. Its mosaic paved streets; its beautiful beaches, parks, buildings and avenues, make it an unforgettable experience for the traveler. Sao Paulo, the large city of the south of Brazil, is a great industrial center and the coffee capital. It has, besides the coffee, another claim to distinction: here at the Butantan Snake Farm are developed life-saving serums for snake bites and tropical diseases. PARAGUAY AND URUGUAY, the two smallest countries of the continent, are not small in their attractions for the tourist. Asuncion, capital of Paraguay, charms with its old world, leisurely air, and its colorful markets. Montevideo, capital of Uruguay, offers smart, sophisticated entertainment in one of the world's lovelier cities. CHILE is a long, narrow country on the Pacific Coast, separated from Argentina and Brazil, with whom it makes up the ABC powers, by the high peaks of the Andes. Its capital, Santiago, smart, cosmopolitan and Spanish in flavor, with all facilities for exciting sports, is especially appealing to those in search of sunshine and fun. BOLIVIA AND PERU are the Andean countries with large Indian populations. Here in Bolivia is Lake Titicaca, literally a lake in the clouds and the highest navigable body of water in the world. La Paz is its capital, a city of steep streets, picturesque houses, interesting markets. Peru is the center of one of the most fascinating Indian civilizations of the past. The Incas, noted for their remarkable buildings; their great, well-organized empire; their beautiful artistry in gold, textiles, ceramics, and feathers, are a never-ending source of interest. Cuzco, at one time the headquarters of the Incas, had the famous Temple of the Sun, with its great disc of solid gold. From this city you may travel by autocarril to Machu Picchu, believed to be the city from which this remarkable Inca civilization came, and to which 21 [[end page]]

[[start page]] it retreated from the Spaniards. On top of the Andes, this site is a remarkable tribute to the engineering genius of these Indians. ECUADOR AND COLOMBIA are also Andean countries. Quito, the capital of Ecuador, while it sits on top of the equator, is so high up in the Andes that it has a climate of perpetual spring. Here is Mount Cotopaxi, highest active volcano in the world. Bogota, capital of Colombia, is a center of art and culture. The life of the city is leisurely, modern and gently romantic. Colombia is also a land of orchids, Cali being a famous center for this exotic flower. VENEZUELA is the land of oil, of history and romance. On the Spanish Main, its cities were the prey of pirates. Caracas, beautiful capital of the country, is the birthplace of Simon Bolivar, liberator of South America. Its old churches, quaint, tile-roofed houses, narrow streets, charm the visitor. CUSTOMS OF THE UNITED STATES If you travel outside of the United States or its possessions, you must face customs officals on your return. If you are on a boat or a plane, customs slips will be given to you on which you are to declare all purchases. You will fill out these forms and present them to the designated official before landing, or crossing the border. You are allowed to bring [[strikethrough]]$500 [[added]]$100 (1962 on.) worth of goods into the country duty free. The inspector will compute the duty on all articles above that figure. You must pay the amount assessed. Your sales slips or memoranda of purchases should be presented at this time for a guide in computing duties. HIGHEST ALTITUDES IN THE UNITED STATES Mountain Location Altitude Feet Mount McKinley ... Alaska ... 20,300 Mount Whitney ... California ... 14,496 22 [[end page]] [[start page]] Mount Elbert ... Colorado ... 14,420 Mount Rainier ... Washington ... 14,408 Mauna Kea ... Hawaii ... 13,823 Gannett Peak ... Wyoming ... 13,785 Kings Peak ... Utah ... 13,498 North Truchas Pk. ... New Mexico ... 13,306 Bdy. Pk. White Mts. ... Nevada ... 13,145 Granite Peak ... Montana ... 12,850 Borah Peak ... Idaho ... 12,655 San Francisco Peak ... Arizona ... 12,611 Mount Hood ... Oregon ... 11,253 Mount Apo ... Philippines ... 9,610 El Capitan ... Texas ... 8,700 Harney Peak ... South Dakota ... 7,242 Clingmans Dome ... Tennessee ... 6,644 Mount Washington ... New Hampshire ... 6,288 Mount Rogers ... Virginia ... 5,719 Mount Marcy ... New York ... 5,344 Mount Katahdin ... Maine ... 5,267 Black Mesa ... Oklahoma ... 4,978 Spruce Knob ... West Virginia ... 4,860 Brasstown Bald ... Georgia ... 4,768 Mount Mansfield ... Vermont ... 4,393 Big Black Mountain ... Kentucky ... 4,150 Sassafras Mountain ... South Carolina ... 3,548 Mount Graylock ... Massachusetts ... 3,505 Black Butte ... North Dakota ... 3,468 Backbone Mountain ... Maryland ... 3,340 Negro Mountain ... Pennsylvania ... 3,213 PRINCIPAL AMERICAN LAKES THE GREAT LAKES Lake Area Superior ... 31,820 square miles Michigan ... 22,400 ″ ″ 23 [[end page]]

[[start page]] Huron 23,010 ″ ″ Erie 9,940 ″ ″ Ontario 7,540 ″ ″ Lake Location Area in Square Miles Lake of the Woods Minnesota 1,485 Ponchartrain Louisiana 625 Champlain New York 490 St. Clair Michigan 460 Salton Sea California 287 Winnebago Wisconsin 215 Tahoe California 193 Leech Minnesota 174 Yellowstone Wyoming 140 Malheur Oregon 128 Summer Oregon 128 Calcasieu Louisana 117 Moosehead Maine 117 Devils North Dakota 111 Owens California 101 Honey California 100 SOURCES OF FURTHER INFORMATION In addition to such sources as your travel agent, the railroads, bus, air, and steamship lines, there are the following suggestions to be made if you wish detailed information on any area you plan to visit. THE UNITED STATES RECREATIONAL AREAS OF THE UNITED STATES. A map issued by the United STates Travel Division, National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington, D.C. This map has information on the National Parks, Monuments, Historic Sites, Forests, Trails, and other outstanding recreational features of the country. 24 [[end page]] [[start page]] THE AMERICAN GUIDE, edited by H.G. Alsberg, published by Hastings House, New York, is a detailed directory of routes, cities and towns of the United States. THE WPA GUIDES OF THE STATES, published by various publishers, have much of interest to offer on the outstanding features and history of the individual states. THE TOURIST OR PUBLICITY BUREAUS maintained by every State and usually located in the capital, will send maps and descriptive literature to the inquirer. ALASKA, HAWAII, AND PUERTO RICO The steamship companies serving these States and this possession are excellent sources of information for the traveler and will send descriptive literature and other materials. Each of these places has Publicity or Tourist Bureaus which may be addressed at Juneau, Honolulu and San Juan respectively. LATIN AMERICA THE SOUTH AMERICAN HANDBOOK (latest edition) is an English publication which contains detailed and comprehensive information on the countries and this region. THE PAN AMERICAN UNION, Washington, D.C. also will send the traveler information. THE CONSULATES AD TOURIST INFORMATION BUREAUS of the different countries will provide you with literature, maps and other information. 25 [[end page]]

[[start page]] [[ship-image]] "EN ROUTE" Captain Date S.S. THE LOG—EN ROUTE [[Table]] DATE COURSE POSITION RUN REMARKS 26 [[end page]] [[start page]] [[ship-image]] RETURNING Captain Date S.S. THE LOG—RETURNING [[Table]] DATE COURSE POSITION RUN REMARKS 27 [[end page]]

[[start page]] HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRIP EVENT Date with a Brazilian wolf, Brasilia zoo DATE Dec. 4, 1962 EVENT Seeing remains of a real voodoo ceremony at Sumaré - macumba DATE Dec. 25, 1962 EVENT Visting Vila Velha & seeing the uplands northwest of Curitiba DATE Jan. 6, 1963 EVENT Finding bulbs of orange gesneriad at Barigui. DATE Jan. 8, 1963 EVENT Our escape from Iguassú !!! (=lowlight of trip) DATE Jan. 11-12, 1963 EVENT Visit to Quinta Gallardo DATE Jan. 21, 1963 28 [[end page]] [[start page]] HIGHLIGHTS OF THE TRIP EVENT Visit to pre-Inca and Inca ruins at Pachacamac. DATE Jan. 24, 1963 EVENT Getting home !!! DATE Feb. 23, 1963 EVENT Date EVENT Date EVENT Date EVENT Date 29 [[end page]]

[[start page]] ITINERARY Date Dec. 3, 1962 Place New York to Brasilía Date Dec. 5, 1962 Place Brasilia to Rio de Janeiro Date Dec. 26, '62 Place Rio de Janeiro to São Paulo Date Jan. 3, '63 Place São Paulo to Curitiba Date Jan. 10, '63 - Jan. 11, '63 Place Curitiba to Foz de Iguassú, then to Catarata, Argentina Date Jan. 12, '63 - Jan 22, '63 Place (Hotel Regidor), Buenos Aires 30 [[end page]] [[start page]] ITINERARY Date Jan. 23 - Jan. 31, 1963 Place (Savoy Hotel) Lima, Peru Date Jan. 31 - Feb. 12, 1963 Place (Menendez Hotel), Cali, Colombia Date Feb. 12-13, 1963 Place Residencia Steves, Bogotá Date Feb. 13-16 Place Hotel Nutibara, Medellin Date Feb. 16-17 Place Hotel Panama - Hilton, Panama City Date Feb. 17-22 Place Barro Colorado Island, C.Z. 31 [[end page]]

[[start page]] SOUVENIRS FOR 32 [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 1 Date Dec. 3, 1962 Monday Place New York to Brasilia Weather excellent We lelft N.Y. International Airport at 9A.M. on a Pan American jet plane, capacity 144. At 11 we were served a lunch of chicken breast, celery-mushroom soup, salad, roll, petit four & coffee. At 12 we came down at San Juan, Puerto Rico for 45 minutes - very windy, & hot. We heard baby chickens peeping in boxes on their way from a hatchery with a Spanish name, & saw about 6 large boxes of them. About 2:15 we came down in Port of Spain, Trinidad for 45 minutes, & collected our first insects by searching in the weeds outside the customs office while most of the other passengers were inside at the bar. At 7:30 (9:30 Brazil time) we arrived at Brasilia after a long dark flight over jungles & rivers with only lightning in the east until we were right at Brasilia. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 2 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 4, 1962 Tuesday Place Brasilia Weather Sunny & hot; shower at noon; cool & cloudy in evening We had a date with a Brazilian wolf, — a real one, long-legged, with big attentive ears & almost a collie's face, which eats berries, so there is a plant called "wolf berry" in Goyaz. He was in Dr. Moojen's new Brasilia zoo, where he has most of the local mammals & birds & tegus. The macaws were handsome & very noisy, & the ocelot was so tame we photographed it with Dr. M stroking it. He gave me a lot of preserved things from his zoo lab & his attendants were very nice in showing them to me. He took us back to our hotel at 1PM, & sent the car for us again at 4 so we could go night collecting near the zoo. I packed the specimens he had given me while Doris & a young vet student collected beetles, then the boys & Elena & I went along a dirt road overflowed by high water & a swamp where we heard frogs, & where the boys said there were not very many cascavels. It [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 3 Date Place Weather was too dark to see much, so Elena & I came back while the boys took my headlamps & machete & went further. They came back about 8pm with 4 nice treefrogs, perhaps Hyla albopunctate, 5 tadpoles* probably of the same, & 4 small cyprinodonts. Then the zoo bus took us all home, stopping to change our air reservations as we decided to go on to Rio to-morrow. No formal dinner, — only 2 beef sandwiches we brought from the hotel, & a bottle of mineral water, but a very busy & profitable day all the same, as Dr. Moojen is going to ask his collector in Luziania to get frogs for me from there. *I transformed, Hyla crepitans fide Bertha [[end page]]

[[start page]] 4 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 5, 1962 Wednesday Place Brasilia & Rio de Janeiro Weather Cloudy in AM; rain & fog in PM. Doris & I packed our things, but came out on the "vacant lot" in front of Brasilia Palace Hotel to collect insects, I got quite a few by whiffing the weeds with our nets, including some quite good beetles. I also found a clump of wild Amaryllis just opposite the right end of the hotel about 2 blocks away in the wild growth, similar to the one I found at Rio 27 years ago, but with a darker red & more veins showing, I'll ask Dr. Moojen to dig up some for our botanical garden, as I did not bring a trowel. We got the 12:30 Varig plane for Rio, & after a half hour of good weather, it got misty. We stopped at Bello-Horizonte for a half hour, but we did not leave the airfield. It rained hard after that, & we got to Rio at 5PM in a downpour. Our rooms at Hotel Serrador are sumptuous, & look out on the bay, now ringed with its "circle of diamonds". [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 5 Date Dec. 6, 1962 Thursday Place Rio Weather heavy rain & mist; cloudy; lots more rain I phoned Bertha Lutz early, & she said to meet her at the Museum at 10:30, as she had to buy food for her 5 dogs before coming. She was glad to see us, & brought Dr. Miranda-Ribeiro, son of the frog specialist I knew in 1935. He speaks fine English, & went with us to introduce us to the photographer, since my camera had jammed again. It will be fixed (I hope!) by the Zeiss specialists. Then we took the plants I had collected in Brasilia to the botany department to be pressed & identified, then we saw the bedroom of the Queen, Dom Pedro II's wife, with superb inlaid chests, french-style ceilings & a wonderful view from the windows. This room is now the director's office, but he was away. We had lunch —beef, tomatoes, marvelou, hard rolls & coffee with milk, & stiff banana marmalade for dessert. Then I worked on frogs in Bertha's office, & Doris on beetles, until 4, when Bertha drove us to a place where we could get a taxi home. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 6 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 7, 1962 Friday Place Rio Weather Cloudy + mild After our usual breakfast of marvelous papayas & oranges, crusty bread, butter, jam & tea, we went to the museum, where I measured 44 different frogs. Dr. Miranda Ribeiro will get us tickets for the Botanical Garden & take us there on Tuesday. Monday we have to visit the Instituto Oswaldo Cruz. Doris is disgusted because some fool German who cant describe them properly has taken all the chrysomelid beetles from Rio & São Paulo & [[inserted]]Paraná to Berlin. All the same she wants to go to these museums to see the regular collections. I gave Dr. Miranda two pieces of gar-scale jewelry for his fish products exhibition in the museum. Bertha took us part way home, & we got a taxi thru a lovely old residential section with lovely gardens & nice big old-style french-looking stucco houses of pink, blue, green, yellow & other colors. We saw the park back of the Monroe Palace opposite our hotel, & it is full of stray cats & kittens which Doris wont let me touch! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 7 Date Dec. 8, 1962 Saturday Place Rio Weather Cloudy + mild This morning we took Bus #19 to the foot of Gavea, about 45 minutes' trip, thru office, residential & very poor districts, but all interesting. The gardens of the nice old houses were lovely with strelitzia, oleander, hibiscus, ferns, variegated leaved plants of many kinds, + others I did not know. We went to the end of the line, & returned halfway to Copacabana, where we sat on the beach watching the marvelous breaking waves. Some skimmer-like birds were diving for fish & boys with small surfboards swam away out & came in on the wave. I picked up a few mussel shells, but it was a very barren place. We walked thru the market back up the beach to see the many fruits, vegetables, fish & household articles for sale. We had lunch at a very nice, clean restaurant —fried chicken, beans, potatoes, tea & bread for 770cr (about .$80) each. We tried to visit the art gallery this afternoon, but it was closed, so we went to see "Kind hearts and coronets" with Alex Guiness, a delightful satire. Two battleships in the harbor below our windows are brilliantly lit up to-night. [[end page]]

[[start date]] 8 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 9, 1962 Sunday Place Rio Weather Clear, hot in AM; full moon, then cloudy At 10AM we went by taxi to Bertha's house on the slopes of Tijuca, —a beautiful house with hardwood parquet floors, big windows & a superb view of the valley with pastel-colored houses, some churches & then the almost vertical rocks of the Tijuca range. She took us for a ride in her car to Boa Vista at 1200ft, from which we had some marvelous views of the distant bay. Then she showed us her house & 11 dogs, 6 of which belonged to neighbors who did not feed them much. About 12:30 we went to a nice restaurant at the edge of the city for a fine dinner of broiled fish, mashed potatoes & shrimp dressing, with glasses of coconut milk & cashew. Later we looked at her brother's frog slides, which are very fine. She gave us iced tea & cake, then 2 mangoes to take with us, & we left about 5:30. A bright full moon came out before we got home, & there was a nice little Christmas parade with white horses & 4 floats later. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 9 Date Dec. 10, 1962 Monday Place Rio Weather Sunny & warm, then windy, cloudy & cool. Doris went to the Plant Quarantine Service to-day to see the entomologists there, so I went alone to the museum. Dr. Miranda-Ribeiro says we must see Iguassu Falls as it is not far from Curitiba, & is a wonderful sight. Dr. Pires brought me 2 mangoes (not ripe yet) & paid for my lunch, because I had given him lunch in my office 2 months ago. I worked hard all day on the frogs, I am nearly half done with them. My camera has not yet been repaired, so I cant photograph any. We had a delicious shrimp & rice dish for dinner, a cashew drink, & fruit salad. Everything tastes good, & so far neither of us has been sick —due, no doubt, to the iodine tablets that we put in our drinking water. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 10 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 11, 1962 Tuesday Place Rio Weather Warm & sunny; hot. This morning we arrived at the museum ready to go with Bertha to the Institute Oswaldo Cruz, when she phoned to Dr. Miranda-Ribeiro that she was sick, so Carvalho came in her place to take us. We started OK at 930 in the zoology depts auto, but it gave up the ghost about a mile from the museum & after standing by a wall & watching the men try to start it for an hour, Carvalho finally phoned for the museum's regular car which got us to the institute long after 11. We interviewed several people, & finally Doris got to see Dr. Costa Lima, the veteran entomologist of Brazil, & I saw the jew Dr. Lent, who had locked up Bertha's & her father's collection & I am to see what I want to-morrow. We were due back at the museum to go with Dr. Miranda-Ribeiro to the meeting at the Jardin Botanico, where the director will give me my export permit. I had to speak French all the [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 11 Date Place Weather time with the assistant director while the papers were being signed. Then the director assigned a girl to show us the gardens. She too spoke French & some English. First we saw the succulents & cacti, very numerous & in fine condition. The orchid house was really a dream, with dozens of wonderful flowers, & little ferns growing outdoors beside the greenhouse. Then we saw the aroids, & the "first" royal palm brought here in 1809 from which all others in Brazil have come, & finally the Amazonian plants, the bamboo clumps were superb masses of light & shadow, & the many flowering trees & shrubs dropped flowers & seeds over the path. Air plants & mistletoe cactus grew in the rose, orange, green, gray & black-lichened trunks. Just before 5 we got a taxi for our hotel, & were glad to get an early dinner with caju & laranja, & so to bed. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 12 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 12, 1962 Wednesday Place Rio Weather Warm & cloudy; humid We got my camera at the Zeiss place today, & they declared nothing was wrong with it!!! But no one knew where my Weston meter had gone, so I could not take pictures at the IOC. Donna Maria Magdalena, Bertha's friend & the editor of the Institute's publications, had Dr. Lutz's old lab unlocked, & showed me the western Brazilian frogs all ready for me —perhaps 40 jars or ±200 specimens in all. At noon we had "breakfast" in the new lunchroom —the typical rice, black-eyed beans & raw onion, steak (tough, but with a delicious flavor), coffee-flavored hot milk, & orange marmalade. Then Donna MM took us up on the roof to see the really magnificent view of the bay, the distant city, Corcovado & the new-made roads & factories at the foot of the hill which did not improve it in my opinion. The library was as I remembered it, with wonderful intricate carvings on sides of desks & table legs, & table tops a yard wide of a single slab of jacaranda wood. We quit at 4, & the IOC paid for our taxi back to town, as well as lunch & coffee. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 13 Date Dec. 13, 1962 Thursday Place Rio Weather Cloudy, warm, humid; light showers We went to the museum this morning, & as Doris had finished the few beetles there, & her interview with the entomologists that she wants to write up, she had a look at the exhibits. About 11, Bertha came in, very tense and nervous because of the drop in the cruzeiro & the general communist dictator bonds in the government. She had all the same asked her friend Dona Edméa Cabral Velho to take us shopping, so at 4 we met her & went first to the Guimaraes store which was a fearful clutter and did not have the stamped pieces to be embroidered that I wanted. Then she took us to Zitrin where gems are sold both set & unset, & we had a wonderful time looking at their tourmalines, topazes, amethysts, aquamarines, & garnets. We got some of all except tourmalines, which were too costly, & Dona Edmea walked us back to our hotel, about a mile thru busy & fascinating but on the whole cheap & modernistic shops. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 14 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 14, 1962 Friday Place Rio Weather Raining nearly all day As Doris' cough was bothering her, I went alone to the museum. At lunch Dr. & Mrs. Hubbell of the Univ. Mich. sat down at my table & introduced themselves. He works on grasshoppers, & soon goes to Tierra del Fugo, where he will try to get me some of those rare Zachaenus. At 5 we shared a taxi home from the museum, as they are also staying at Hotel Serrador. Then they went to dinner with us at our little hole in the wall, Café Olona, & were crazy about the shrimp-and-rice, just as we had been, & the caramel custard, & cashew. Dr. H. paid our bill too. Then we bought light raincoats for Mrs. H. & me at Mesbla, & we came back to our room & showed them our "stones", & gave them the address so they could get some. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 15 Date Dec. 15, 1962 Saturday Place Rio Weather Cloudy, cool We went to Estacio Mariano Procopio to get tickets for Petropolis tomorrow on the 8[[:]]30AM bus for the Hubbells & ourselves, as Bertha had asked her friend Dona Renée Lamounier who lives there to meet us in her car & take us to the lake & other good collecting places. Then we went for a ride on Bus 97, & when it passed the Botanic Gardens we got off & had a very pleasant half hour watching the birds & finding more epiphitic plants on branches brought down by yesterday's rain. Photographed a very large humming bird sipping at some red hibiscus. In the afternoon the Hubbells joined us in a sightseeing tour along the beaches, around the lake, & into the park to the Emperor's former home, now the city museum where we saw fine old carved furniture, portraits, china, armor, seals & such, but especially a small but lovely collection of old tiles, another of rubber figurines, & one of bobbin laces which I tried to photograph. The guide talked too much, so we were tired out when it was over. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 16 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 16, 1962 Sunday Place Rio and Petropolis Weather Sunny at Rio; cloudy & foggy at Petropolis The Hubbells met us in the lobby at 8AM, & we started for Petropolis. The outskirts of Rio are very slummy, but as we started to climb, the shanties dropped away, & the lovely mountains rose up with lovely trees full of orchids (not yet in bloom!) & bromeliads, little water falls lined with ferns, & higher still , acres of Impatience plant in orange, pink, cerise & red. The clouds came down as fog when we got higher, so we had no long views of Guanabara Bay. At the end of the line 2 of Bertha's friends met us, & as their autohad broken down, they took us to the apartment of one of them for tea, crackers, cheese, goiaba & home-made butter. Then they showed us the summer home of the president, the residency of Princess Isabelle & the home of Dom Pedro II, now a museum. About 11:30 we got a taxi for Quitandinha, as Bertha said there was good collecting behind the hotel. Maybe sometimes, but not to-day, as it was too [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 17 Date Place Weather cold for frogs to be out, although I heard a few singing high up in the trees, & a different kind (perhaps microhylids?) from the artificial lake, but had no means of getting either. I got a lot of insects for Doris, & a fen & some Selaginella for Clyde. We left Dr. Hubbell still collecting, as Doris & I had return tickets for 3PM. We tried to get some tea or coffee in the Hotel's coffee shot but were ignored by the snobbish waiters because of our collecting equipment & sweaters. Dr. & Mrs. Hubbell had exactly the same treatment later in the afternoon. Phui on that hotel!!! At least we got some Kibon (Eskimo pies) from a lad with a pushcart in front of the hotel, so we had that before out bus came. The ride downhill was very quick, & we got to Rio station in 1 hour. We had roast chicken at our Olona hole-in-the-wall, & it tasted good! There were a few blue hydrangeas in Petropolis, just as I had remembered them! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 18 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 17, 1962 Monday Place Rio Weather Sunny & hot; thunderstorm in evening I saw the vertebrate & mollusk exhibitions at the museum this noon, but the others were not lighted, so I'll see them later, I hope. I went to the Amer. Embassy at 3 to see the Cultural Attaché to get a letter for the zoo director here to permit the museum to export live animals (& plants) to our zoo & shall return to-morrow for this permit. They all do business in such a wonderful way here. I walked up Rua Uruguaya to Rua Ouvidor, & there lost another of my illusions, for that once-wonderful street of old curiosity shops has now "modernized" into cheap —very cheap- plastic things & too-loud radios & typical jew hawkers —just as most of Rio has! Well, I went on to Rua Buenos Aires & got some corn plasters at the Scholl place, & right next door was the Zitrin shop, so I got 2 opals, but they were all the pale kind, so I did not want any more. The flower market was opposite, & I took some photos of pruple orchids & a strange pink flower I'd never seen. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 19 Date Dec. 18, 1962 Tuesday Place Rio Weather Cloudy & humid As Doris still has sinus trouble, I went alone to the museum again. The porter's porter was sent by Bertha for the new Atlas do Brasil Y gazetteer that I shall need, as she said it was sold by the gov't geographic council, & the clerks there had no interest in speeding attendance on customers. I went to our Embassy again hoping for help with the export of live animals to our zoo & received the complete brush-off, altho the Brazilian secretary was good enough to give me addresses of persons to give a bill of health for the animals, & permission to export them. The rest is up the airlines or steamships that carry "parcel post". So I got nowhere fast! My first card from the Trammello about the cats came to-day, so that is good anyhow! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 20 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 19, 1962 Wednesday Place Rio Weather Cloudy & rain; sunny; cloudy & rain As Bertha said it was her father's 107th birthday anniversary, I asked her to let me go the cemetery with her to leave flowers on his grave, so she took me to the St. John the Baptist Cemetery in Botafogo this morning, & we got some white agapanthus & gladioli. The cemetery is full of handsomely carved statues of angels & saints, with a beautiful big mountain at the back. Dr. Lutz's grave (& his wife's) is a large white marble box with an open book carved at the head, with marble urns for flowers Oswaldo Cruz's grave is nearby. At the museum I met 2 nice young men from São Paulo, a paleontologist & an ecologist, who have established a college at Rio Preto, & invited us to visit it, but I doubt if we'll have time. I copied 2/3 of the entries of frogs from my area from the amphib. catalogue, & shall do the rest to-morrow, so I'll be sure not to miss any important ones. Doris was well enough to go to our hole-in-the-wall for dinner. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 21 Date Dec. 20, 1962 Thursday Place Rio Weather Sunny & hot; clouds, rain, breeze. I finished copying records of west Brazilian frogs from the museum catalogue, & as Bertha let me borrow the catalogue of the Lutz Collection at the IOC, I copied that too. In the time left, I shall manage to see about half the museum collection, & nearly all the IOC frogs. —not so many at that! Bertha gave me the address of some Swiss jewelers Mister, 108 C Avenida Rio Branco —to whom I took Doris' wristwatch to have one of the links repaired, & he would not let me pay him anything, as the work took only a few minutes. He has some pretty polished agates & tumbled quartz chains, so I want to go & buy something to show my appreciation. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 22 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 21, 1962 Friday Place Rio Weather Wonderful! The first really sunnyday. I went to the Institute this morning, & took a few photos of the Moorish tile, plaster & iron work while waiting for Dr. Teixera de Freitas to unlock the Lutz lab for me. I finished about 1230, & he let me ride to the museum in the Institute auto, with 3 other people who were going further. In the museum lunchroom the girls were hanging decorations for the Christmas party to be given this afternoon, so I snapped a picture. A wooden lattice in one corner was covered with beautiful rosecolored passion flowers —real ones! There was the typical tree —a stuffed bush colored silver, with balls tied to the bare branches, I worked hard & nearly finished what most needed doing. Dr. Paris came to leave 4 delicious mangoes from his garden for me. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 23 Date Dec. 22, 1962 Saturday Place Rio Weather Sunny & hot; fog & mist, windy. This morning I finished working at the museum, & at 11 Doris & Bertha came, so Bertha could take us to Tijuca again. In full sun it was a marvelous trip, with tall tree ferns, bamboo, cecropia, hibiscus, bougainvillea & thousands of other plants, & Cascatenha, the superb waterfall, near which we collected some nice beetles. We stopped at several places to collect, & finally at the lovely pond where the smith frog breeds, & we found 3 nests with eggs in various stages. Tall blue water lilies bloomed in the pond, & tiny toads & tree frogs under the grass around it. Bertha took us to her house for a nice lunch & a rest, then I made some photos of it, including the wall with maidenhair fern. We left at 5. I jolted back on the bus, I finished my 3rd film, altho the camera jammed again in rewinding, but Bertha lended me her brother's film-changer, so I saved the film. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 24 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 23, 1962 Sunday Place Rio and Niteroi Weather Cloudy, mist, rain. Donna Maria Magdalena came at 1PM to take us on the ferry to Niteroi. It is no longer a pretty country town, but is like the 2nd rate business districts in Rio. We took a very bumpy bus for the ride to Saco São Francisco, no longer a marsh & country road, but a dirty town with a whitewashed church on a high rock. The view of the harbor & distant Rio from this rock was superb, havens. After collecting insects & getting mostly nettles & ferns, we went along the beach barefooted in the gentle surf & found a few much-battered shells. Donna M.M. was very nice to us, & insisted on carrying our shoes, purses & even the nets most of the way. The air was warm, & the fine mist made it even balmier, but the collecting was very poor, as lether the old Lutz localities had all been built over, or Donna M.M. did not know them. At 4 we started home, & after washing up, we took her to dinner in our usual hole-in-the-wall. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 25 Date Dec. 24, 1962 Monday Place Rio Weather Warm & sunny, then cloudy. As the museum is closed, Doris & I had a "day off" to arrange passage to São Paulo & to visit Meister's for some more of those pretty sparkly things to bring back as presents. We had lunch & then tried for an hour with the doorman's help to get a taxi to take us to the Corcovado cogwheel railway, but the taxis were all full. Finally, we bumped along on an old streetcar for over an hour, but when we reached the railways station, clouds & fog were coming in, & it would have been useless to go up, so we got a bus & came back much quicker than we went. Later I had a nice walk to photograph the big reindeers & things on 2 of the small squares. I also got 50 lovely colored slides of barro Preto & other places from Mesbla for $5.80 or so -cheaper than I could have bought the film alone at home. People do their shopping at the last minute here, but by 5 the street was pretty well cleared. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 26 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 25, 1962 Tuesday Place Rio Weather Warm, sunny windy. At 9 we started for Bertha's home, & she drove us over to Sumaré beyond Tijuca, & we saw frogs (Hyla circumdata) sleeping in a deep cistern, also tads of Phyllomedusa & a very dark juv. Eleuth guentheri. We also visited the spot where Hyla faber nests, & I took a photo of a nest just made, with the water not yet settled. On a dirt road near the top of Sumaré, Bertha showed us the remains of a voodoo rite, several flat bowls of fish, boiled eggs, cigars & a drink, some red cloth, & 5 voodoo dolls, 2 of them stuck with pins. She said I could take these for our ethnology dept. After we had collected & photographed, we came back to her house for a chicken & sausage dinner, salad, coconut ice-cream with boiled chestnuts, cake & tea. She took me to photograph 2 houses designed by Niemeyer a half mile up the street. Bertha gave each of us a nice calendar of Brazil. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 27 Date Dec. 26, 1962 Place Rio and São Paulo Weather Warm & humid at Rio; rainny & cool at São Paulo We packed this morning & paid our bills & tipped everybody. It was more humid than we have yet known it to be in Rio, so I guess we are leaving just in time. Bertha came to eat lunch with us, & give me some letters, & she took us to the airport & waited in the very stuffy waiting room until our plane left. The flight along the coast was beautiful with rocky islands everywhere. We finally flew over land & into 2 or 3 small storms, & came to S.P. in the rain, being handed big umbrellas as we got off the plane, to protect us until we got to the door of the airport, where they were collected by attendants. S.P. is much cooler & cleaner than Rio & we have not noticed the terrible slums that in Rio come right up to the fine houses. I phoned Vanzolini, & we went out to the museum right away. It is a handsome big building, but he says it is already too small. There are several thousand frogs, but graded into species, not localities, so I am to begin to look them over to-morrow to see what I want to borrow. We had a small simple but luxurious dinner in our handsome hotel. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 28 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 27, 1962 Thursday Place São Paulo Weather Sunny & cool; a heavy rain, cloudy. We went early to the Department of Zoology, & I looked thru the frogs in 1 of the 6 big storage cases with Dr. Vanzolini's servant to reach the high shelves. I had measured & made notes on all but a dozen or so by quitting time. At noon some of Doris' entomologist friends invited us to go with them to a tiny private house about half a mile away to have lunch. It was a tight squeeze to get 9 of us in the little front room, with a Christmas tree, a sofa, a sideboard & a Pekinese in addition. A traditional Brazilian lunch was served by the lady & her 2 daughters —a green salad, then boiled beef (very good!), spaghetti, rice, oranges & bananas, with beer & something a lot stronger if we wanted it & a "small coffee" at the end. The younger daughter, a pretty & vampish young teen of 14 or so, played the guitar & sang the "Vanzolini Samba", by our Vanzo! It was very attractive, & she did it very well. The Pekse stayed by me most of the time, perhaps still smelling cat on my dress even after nearly 4 weeks! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 29 Date Dec. 28, 1962 Friday Place São Paulo Weather Sunny, then overcast; evening rainy Vanzolini was away to-day, & not one person came in to see if I needed anything or even to open the window, which I cannot reach. I managed to open some of the storage cases & brought in 30 of 40 jars of frogs, but when I'd finished those & wanted to get more, a man was trying out a projecting lantern in the storage room so I couldn't get any more! I was good & mad at Vanzo, you bet! The nice entomologist took us to lunch again at the same small house, & the lovely Peke was on the window sill, & stuck his head out the grill in his joy at seeing me. He was taken down & put in the kitchen when the lunch of green salad, chicken stew, rice & desert of mixed fruits came on (all for Cr.100, about $.15 U.S.). The girl played & sang some of the "saudades" for us, & one of the zoologists also sang with her, & played the guitar when she was helping serve. Everybody here is musical it seems! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 30 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 29, 1962 Saturday Place São Paulo Weather Cloudy; hard rains This morning we spent in visiting Pan-Am & Varig to arrange a simple trip to Curitiba, Iguassu & B.A. —it took about 2 hours! This afternoon Doris's entomologist friend Mr. Diringshofen came for us at 2 in Mr. Diringshofen's car (with chauffeur!) to take us to see Mr. D's collection. We were ushered into a sumptuous home (of 22 rooms, he told us later) & after being greeted briefly by Mrs. D. & a Peke who obviously didn't like us, we went up to the 2nd floor, where beautiful wooden cases lined the walls, & exquisite Schmidt boxes of burled cedar held the really beautiful insects that Mr D. had mounted. He brought out many boxes of all sorts of insects, including barbeiros, butterflies, grasshoppers & giant bettles over 7″ long. He also took us into the cellar, where 3 big rooms were filled with tins of unmounted insects packed in naphthalene. He had beautiful old furniture, pictures & curious which I should have liked to know about. About 3:30 we were taken to the car, as Mr D. had other business then, & Mr. Pohl went with us to our hotel. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 31 Date Dec. 30, 1962 Sunday Place São Paulo Weather Raining, then cloudy As it was raining hard, we spent the morning in letter writing. At noon it had more or less stopped, & after chicken soup, orange juice (& coffee with milk for me), we started for the zoo, eventually finding the right bus. It is a small zoo, inaugurated in 1958, but has beautiful large ponds for water fowl, & a lovely bird house, parrot "garden", a cock-of-the-rocks & other rarities. There is a tractor-drawn "sight-seeing" car, & we rode all over the zoo for 5cr. I didn't know anything in Brazil cost as little as 5 cruzeiros! There were trees along the duck pond, & in one we saw a white gibbon curled up asleep. The land turtles & guinea pigs were kept together in a concrete shell —hard on the gp's with their nice white coats. There were 2 lions, 2 tigers, grizzlies, a Kodiak bear & some bad-tempered camels, as well as llamas & alpacas. I did not go in the small snake house. Humming birds were coming to the cannas & hibiscus planted beside the paths. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 32 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Dec. 31, 1962 Monday Place São Paulo Weather Rainy, cloudy, then heavy rain. As it had poured all night, the canal had overflowed, & the taxi man could hardly get me to the museum. Doris came out at 12, as we had planned to go to the historical museum. The restaurant near the museum was not open, so Padre Ferreira showed us a workingman's lunch, & while we were eating amid the flies that wanted to share our food, Bokermann came in to ask us to his house to see his collection at 2 o'clock. It is 4 mi. from the museum, so we got a taxi. He built his own house, with a lab room in which there are 12000 frogs he collected since 1957, & lots of beetles, & a fine library (for Brazil!) He likes cats, & has 6, and the grandmother cat allowed me to pet her. He also likes plants, & has lots of succulents, most of which I know. He will give me paratypes of several of his frog species. We left before 4, & went to the Cruzeiro do Sul offices to retrieve my green glasses. Would you believe it, they had been sent back to Rio!!! (but will be returned here by Wednesday —I hope!). Then we picked up my films, which were not too bad & got a new filter & some butterfly plates for Doris on the way back to our hotel. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 33 Date Jan 1, 1963 Tuesday Place São Paulo & Santos Weather Cloudy, rainy We decided to go to Santos to-day, so we arrived at the bus station at 9:30, were sold tickets for the 10:15 bus which left about 11, & finally arrived at Santos after a ride thru the beautiful mountains. Then we learned we could not get any return tickets until to-morrow!! But I thought of the railway, so we planned to try that. First we had lunch at the luxurious Atlantico Hotel, & then walked on the beach & collected shells & insects for an hour, & I photographed some ships at anchor. The beach is spoiled now by cast-up trash & too many people! We finally got a taxi to take us to the station at Jundiaí, & got there at 2PM & bought our return tickets for the 4 o'clock train. There was not time to go'way beach to the beach, so I photographed the 1641 church next door, & some people & street scenes. At 3:30 the line began to form, & I asked the ticket man if it was for the 4PM train, & as it was, we got aboard & sat until 4:20 before starting. And at the station in S.P. there were no taxis, as it was raining, so we had to walk to our hotel! What a day!! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 34 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 2, 1963 Wednesday Place São Paulo Weather Rainy, then sunny, then cloudy As this was my last day at the museum, I finished copying the catalogue records, & saw the remaining species. The Rands took me to lunch near the museum, & I named some frogs they had collected over the weekend. Dr. Vanzo came in for a few minutes & said he could pack & send the frogs I wanted to borrow or to have in exchange. When the sun came out, the clouds were about the most beautiful I had ever seen, so I took a few pictures out the museum windows. We are packing to-night, as we leave to-morrow for Curitiba. It is quite tiring to have to pack & unpack so often! But the show must go on! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 35 Date Jan. 3, 1963 Thursday Place São Paulo and Curitiba Weather Sunny & warm; rain, sun, windy. This morning we investigated the shop at 914 Rua Augusta that advertised "stamped" pieces for embroidery, & of course they had none, so we came back & visited the seed & plant shop on the hill behind our hotel. I got rex begonia seed & several other good kinds, as well as an amaryllis & 10 Zephyranthes which are probably the native kinds wanted by our Dept. Agric. After nearly an hour spent in trying to explain to the desk clerk about what to do with my green glasses if they are found, we signed out & went to the airport for the 2PM plane to Curitiba. The airport is on high ground, & gives a fine view of the city, as & hope my photos will show. We flew along the coast & finally inland over very high, wild mountains. Curitiba is in a valley 900M. high, & the clear bracing air & farms & herds of cattle (& even a flock of sheep!) reminded me of Minas Gerais. The hotel is old but elegant, only 3 floors, & the quiet is a happy change from Rio & S.P. We sat in the clean(!) little park for a while, & saw the moon & stars for the first time. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 36 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 4, 1913 Friday Place Curitiba Weather Cool, then hot; heavy rain; cool & clearing This morning we started at 9 to find the Institute of Natural History, but it was not open, so we walked & walked to the old Museum Paranaense, & after climbing lots of steps, we found the Dept. Archeology, whose chief spoke English & told us the Institute opened only at 12. He gave us mate; & had one of his girl helpers take us to a taxi stand a block away. We then went to see Padre Moura at the Catholic Univ. He remembered me from his 1956 visit to the USNM. I met his assistant, Dr. Loyola, who is director of the Institute, & who promises to send Dr. Hobbs a collection of local crawfish. He took us to our hotel & called for us after lunch to take us to our respective work places. Dr. Lange came in shortly after I got to the Institute, & spent most of the afternoon talking to me. At 4 Dr, Loyola brought Doris over to see the beetles, & Padre Moura has arranged to take us to Ponta Grossa on Sunday for the fine scenery & some collecting. It was raining so Dr. Loyola took us to the hotel at 5. There was a fine small orchestra of "live" music after dinner. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 37 Date Jan. 5, 1963 Saturday Place Curitiba Weather Sunny, mild, then hot, cooler & windy. As the museum was open from 9 to 12, I worked hard & nearly finished. Dr Lange brought a live horned frog 150cm long for me to see, & I'll photograph it next week. He told me of a wood working shop a block from the museum, & I stopped on my way home to get lovely in laid boxes & things - 9 for less than $5.00 U.S. After lunch Doris & I walked over to the nice little zoo which is less than half a mile from our hotel. I photographed our nice park on the way. The zoo has a fine lot of monkeys, & 2 "monkey islands" in the pool for the water buffalo & the taper Macaws & parrots were beautiful & noisy as ever. Dr. Lange said there was no handweaving here, but his mother had studied it here many years ago, altho the weaving school had folded for lack of pupils. On our way from the zoo I saw a real embroidery shop, the first I had found in Brazil, that has original stamped patterns of [[araucarias?]], & also bobbin laces that look hand made, so I must go there next week when it is open. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 38 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 6, 1963 Sunday Place Curitiba, Vila Velha & Ponta Grossa Weather Clear & hot. At 10 Padre Moure came for us in his tiny Brazilian-made Dauphine, & we started for Ponte Grossa, Dr. Loyola & his family following in his car. We sailed along at 90 to 110 Km per hour thru wonderful wooded hills, then grassland with grazing zebras, & then thru outcrops of sandstone. We turned off the road to visit Vila Velha, a "town" of huge squarish rocks weathered into all sorts of queer shapes, the Hen, the Wineglass, the Shep's Prow, the Camal, the Boot, the Sphinx, the Leaning Tower to mention only a few. It was dry & very hot, but we went along a sandy path & over pink-&-yellow-veined rocks, catching beetles & collecting plants & taking photos. The distant views of mountains were breath-taking. The highest point on our road was 1170M. We arrived at Ponte Grossa about 1 & Padre Moure ordered spitted chicken, potato salad, tomatoes & mineral water for us, all excellent. On the way back we got our first drinkable water since leaving home at a pipe leading from the top of the mountain. He drove us around the outskirts of Curitiba to see the pines & the new houses, & we got to our hotel about 6. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 39 Date Jan. 7, 1963 Monday Place Curitiba Weather Sunny & hot This morning I took Doris to the wood-inlay shop, & she got a few pieces & so did I. Then we went to the embroidery shop I had seen on Saturday, but there was no hand-made lace. I got a rose design stamped luncheon set for cross-stitch, & some very small tapestry designs with araucerias & palms in them. At 12 I went to the museum, & made more notes, & photographed the big horned frog. Dr. Lange will take us to Barigui to collect to morrow. The 3-piece orchestra played in the hotel lounge after dinner, & the little exhibition of paintings is still up. But the Christmas tree has been taken down, & so have most of the overhead tinsel street decorations. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 40 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 8, 1963 Tuesday Place Curitiba & Barigui Weather Sunny & hot, then cloudy This morning Dr. Longe & Luis 14-year-old son come in the Institute Volkswagen & we set out for Bariqui which is on the Ponta Grossa road. In a few minutes we left te city & jolted over a very eroded lane to a small river, the Barigui. Collecting was very good for insects, & I get a Tillardia with a rose pink flower, & lots of lichens. In an hour we moved on to another spot on the property of a very genial German-Brazilian. A little way inside the gate Dr Longe had collected his narrow-mouthed frog under rocks, but altho he turned over lots of rocks, we found only 3 Physalaemus cuvieri & 1 Eleuth guentheri. Then we entered the primitive woodland jungle going up the mountain, with superb treeferns & tiny Selaginellas everywhere. It was cool & wonderful there. On the way out we found several orange gesneriads, & Dr Longe dug the bulbs of 4 for me. We stopped at his house to see his 7 children, & to bring his wife & him to our hotel for lunch. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 41 Date Jan 9, 1963 Wednesday Place Curitiba and Tarumã Weather Cloudy, sunny; rain in the evening Dr. Lange & the Institute Volkswagen came at 9 to take us to Tarumã. A small river came down to the road, with arum & water plants. Lots of small brambly trees lined the bank, & we went along the path stroking the branches & plants towards our nets & seemed to get quite a different population of insects from yesterday. In a big field full of anthills & cow-chewed grass clumps we caught 2 frogs & found the mud nest of Eleutherodectylus guentheri with very small larvae, which we took back to the museum. I saw a tall wild begonia with pink flowers, but did not take it. At the museum a reporter & photographer came for a "story" about Doris & me, and took an hour of my time. Sebastian came with 55 frogs in fine shape that he had collected the past 3 nights, & I paid him 6000cr., at which he was speechless, as his university salary is only 15000cr a month. We said goodbye to Milton, our waiter, after tipping him 1000 cr. a piece. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 42 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 10, 1963 Thursday Place Curitiba, Foz de Iguaçú, & Catarata, Argentina Weather Sunny & hot, then cloudy & heavy rain This has been our all-time low! First our 9AM plane did not leave until 10, as there had been heavy rain & it was not certain the tiny plane could land on the grassy field at Fox de Iguaçú. But we did at 12. Then the trouble began. The Varig man said no plane for B.A. left from the Brazilian side, & that we'd have to catch it on the Argentine side. We finally got a taxi to take us thru the dirty, little town along very rough & muddy roads to a raw river bank -no town, only a small shut wooden "office", where we sat on the very hot rocks until 3, when a small rowboat came from the other side & the police chief appeared in the wooden cage to collect our departure slips. The descent of the steep bank on dirt steps was truly appalling, altho I paid a man & boy to carry out bags down. The row across was quite nice & it was cooler on the river. We got ashore in Argentina on the 2nd boatload, but the 1st had already taken the only taxi. We sat or stood in the fumes [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 43 Date Place Weather of a crane loading bags of flour onto a truck from a river boat for nearly an hour, & then an Argentinian young man who had come across with us took pity on us & sent a boy to look for a taxi. He may still be looking, as he never came back, at last it looked like rain, so I suggested to Doris that I walk to the nearest hotel & get a taxi, with the Argentinian to guide me -for a price! we set off up hill & had nearly got to the top when our man stopped a taxi & we got Doris & the baggage, & drove 20 Km. to Hotel Catarata, Misseonies, where we got a room with bath. But as we walked along the porch towards our room, Doris turned to me and said "There's the Falls, if it makes any difference" I could hardly keep my feet for laughing, & it did not really make any difference then, as we were so tired & hot from waiting with nothing to eat since 11AM when the plane had served the typical all starch Brazilian lunch. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 44 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 11, 1963 Friday Place Iguassu, and on plane to Buenos Aires Weather Sunny & hot, cool at night This is Doris' birthday & I gave her 2 pr. stockings, which was the only suitable thing I had with me. Breakfast was rather poor, with hard, dry toast & jam, & weak tea. About 9 we took our nets & collected some insects in the front yard of the hotel. Then we walked into The Nat'l Park of Iguassu, & went over wood footbridges & paths thru a beautiful jungle, seeing bits of the falls every four feet from the many channels flowing over pot-holed rocks. In about half a mile we came to the final view, which was suberb, with 2 great circles of falls visible, & spray coming from below, with hundreds of swallows flying above it catching mosquitos. Soon a flock of 50 or 60 large squawking birds flew past, & we recognized the big green parrots. I photographed them in flight as they flew around to different trees hunting fruit or seeds. Lizards (Tropidurus) appeared on many rocks & about 20 kinds of bright butterflies, but we collected nothing, as we know how to behave in national parks. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 45 Date Place Weather But 2 young squirts of park police did not think so as they came up, & after seeing our nets, demanded our little bottles of insects. We gave them up, & the police said they would return them to the hotel. We tried & explain that we were "scientists" & were leaving on the 5 PM plane for B.A. (so we thought!). They said they would bring them to the hotel for us, but instead came for my official calling card & to see my Rix permit, etc. - After a horrible lunch, we were told that there would not be a place at 5, as rains prevented its taking off from the dirt field which is all the airstrip these tiny planes have here. But at 730 it finally limped in, & we got a bus to the airfield nearly - no dinner. The place came down 4 or 5 times for a fueling, & each time we had to get off for fear of explosion. They finally got some sandwiches & coffee aboard & we had them about 930. We got to B.A. more dead than alive at 230 AM, & fell into bed at our hotel, which fortunately had got our letter. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 46 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 12, 1963 Saturday Place Buenos Aires Weather Sunny & cool; warmer, cool again. We started on a tour lasting from 930 to 12, & altho we were tired, it was lovely. The city is not so strikingly beautiful as Rio, but it is clean & pleasant, with a few lovely old buildings dating from its settlement in 1540, & some splendid parks, one with rose gardens & a lovely Spanish "summer house" made with tiles & fine wrought iron. The wharf is lively with lots of passenger & freight boats from Kopenhagen, Hamburg, Rotherdam & other places. Many statues in "Victorian" style were a welcome change from the modernistic Brasilia type. The lady guide who conducted the tour in 2 languages was nice, & well informed. Here is a zoo & a botanic garden, which we hope to visit. The air is clear & not sticky, & we feel much better than at Iguassu, which is extremely humid from the Falls. After the tour, Doris & I ate lunch at the "Venado", an expensive Italian restaurant at 738 Tucuman, where we ate chicken, mushrooms & tiny potatoes for 565 pesos ($4.52), our most expensive meal so far. The peso is worth 6.1 cruzeiros, & we feel the difference! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 47 Date Jan. 13, 1963 Sunday Place Buenos Aires, Tigre & delta of the Paraná River. Weather Sunny & pleasant We took a 2nd tour of Tigre and the Paraná River delta with the same guide, Dona Alicia. After an hour by bus thru the San Vicente section & along the water front, we changed over to a covered launch & chugged slowly over a narrow channel between rowing clubs & private summer homes to an Italian restaurant on another "island", where we had spagetti, beef, french fries, canned peaches & tea. The grounds were crowded & not very attractive, altho a large party of Italians kept it lively with barbershop of singing & horseplay. The only real beauty there was an arbor of green grapes. We met a nice Amer. couple, the Charles Walters from Ohio. He is teaching for a year in the Amer. School at S Paulo. He was taking pictures, & suggested that he send some to the Geogr. Soc. with a story about fazenda life in Brazil. The small canals we sailed thru were coffee-colored with mud, but people were swimming in them enjoying it all, & the weather was perfect. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 48 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 14, 1963 Monday Place Buenos Aires Weather Sunny and fine. This moring the hotel clerk tried to phone the museum for us, but no one answered, so we got a taxi & went to the home of Dr. Viana, Doris entomologist friend. His father answered the door & said that Viana was at the museum waiting for us. The porter took us to his office, & then took me to Dr. Gallardo who was very glad to see me & showed me the collection. They have nothing from Central Brazil or Colombia, but at least I can get some kinds that we dont have in the USNM, and I can copy records of Misiones from the catalogue, as that state borders Paraná. Dr. Gallardo promised to exchange some of his paratypes & other species we do not have. The reptile man, Dr. Jorge Cranwell, gave us tea, quince jelly on crackers, and cookies at 5, & then we found our way back on the bus. No restaurants open until 8PM, so we starved and waited until El Pulpo, an Italian restaurant near the hotel, opened & then we had soup & fine tender beef. We got out first mail from home since Dec. 24 to-day. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 49 Date Jan. 15, 1963 Tuesday Place Buenos Aires Weather Fine & sunny, the cloudy & a very heavy shower We went to the museum about 945, as Dr. Viana had agreed to come in "early" to show Doris his beetles, while I wrote postcards waiting for the 12o'clock appearance of Dr. Gallardo. We had brought out own sandwiches & fruit & Dr. Viana sent his porter out to get Cocacola for us, & beer for himself & Gallardo. As the collection is small, Doris finished before noon, so after lunch she came down to the herp lab with me to write her account of the entomology collection for Dr. Viana to read. I finished copying the Misiones records by 3 -they had not one frog from Central Brazil or Colombia- so Dr. Cranwell wrote us a letter to take to La Plata to morrow, while I asked Dr. G. for a dozen frogs we do not have, including some of his paratypes. Dr. Cranwell has asked us all to dinner on Thursday evening. He wanted to meet us at 9, apparently the fashionable hour, but when I said we were accustomed to eating much earlier, he somewhat grudgingly put the date at 8PM -also too late in my opinion! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 50 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 16, 1963 Wednesday Place Buenos Aires and La Plata Weather Cool, sunny, then hot. We got a 925 bus for La Plata & got there (36 miles) about 1030, after a ride thru perfectly flat country, at first the suburbs of B.A., the fields with black & white cows & horses, then a big park & residence sector, & then the town of La Plata. We got a taxi to their zoo, which is very nice, & where I photographed some of the Argentine birds & mammals. A nice pond has a good sculptured sea-turtle in it, & a beautiful bronze stag is just inside the gates. We saw a fig tree at least 15 ft. thick at the base, & several more almost as large. After some trouble we got a taxi & told the man to take us to a "buena restaurante" & we ended up in a merry Italian place, where we got very tough chicken & vegetables, tea, orangeade & flan. Then we tipped the waiter to get us another taxi & tried to see 2 of the museum people, but they were on vacation out of town, so we drove back to the bus station & got back to our hotel just after 330P.M. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 51 Date Jan. 17, 1963 Place Buenos Aires Weather Cool, sunny, warm. We went to the zoo this morning, but at noon we had to leave, as they lock the gates until 230 for some unexplained reason! Then we had lunch & visited the botanical garden next to the zoo. It was very nice, with many handsome big trees including those native to Argentina. -At 8 our friends came & took us to the "London Grill", 3 blocks from our hotel, which we had noticed before on one of our rambles. It was quite English inside, with the map of London and hunting prints on the wall, & Toby jugs & lanterns on the shelves. We ordered "king fish" at their suggestion, & they had that & a big beefsteak & 2 bottles of wine & some brandy besides. Dr. Cranwell as host gave me an envelope of Argentine stamps, & a box of candy for both of us. Dr. Gallardo asked us all for a collecting trip next Monday to his father's farm, which will be very nice. Doris reminded them again of our purlined Iguassu insects, & they laughed, but I'm sure they will help us to get them back. I had "peach pie" for dessert & the others ice cream. They walked us back to our hotel at 10o'clock. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 52 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 18, 1963 Friday Place Buenos Aires Weather Fine, sunny, cool Petty officialdom, thy name is Argentina! We've just spent the whole day getting our passports stamped for entry into Argentina -which they should have done at Catarata- because some young squirt at Pan Am noticed that we didn't have the entry stamp & as he said "If you are not here, you cannot be expected to leave". So he sent us to the American Embassy (to get the Argentine stamps!!!) which of course was the wrong place, so we were told to go to the Argentine Immigration Office, but not until 2, as the man in charge did not come until then. We were there at 2, & after showing my Dago dazzler & Brazilian permit & explaining as best we could, for he did not now a word of English, we were told to return at 5 for our passports & the required certificate. We did, & another man did speak a little English, altho we had to sign a paper saying we had "clandestinely entered" the country. What a day! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 53 Date Jan. 19, 1963 Saturday Place Buenos Aires and Luján Weather Sunny / warm To-day we took the guided tour to Luján, about 50 miles west of B.A. The land is perfectly flag all the way, & used to be only grass, but trees were planted & now are quite numerous. The Basilica at Luján is very large, French Gothic, with stained glass windows made in Boulogne 300 years ago, & seem to be a center of pilgrimage, as the plaza in front was lined with sellers of candles, medals & such, & I saw women inside going on their knees & saying their prayers every four feet. The altar is high & very handsome, & the woodcarving is lovely, as well as the stone columns & vaulted ceilings. We had a typical country lunch -boiled beef, corn, potatoes, squash, carrots, peas & beans all cooked together, with flan for desert. The 2 1/2 hr. ride back was tiring, as the grass was very dry & everything seemed too hot, as evidently no rain falls at this season. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 54 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 20, 1963 Sunday Place Buenos Aires Weather Sunny & hot This has been the first really warm day here. We tried to go to the Spanish Patio in the Palermo Park by bus, but missed it, so we got a taxi to take us back there, but as the man could not park on wait, I did not get out to take any more photos. The highlight of the day was the 8PM dinner at El Pulpo, the little Italian restaurant on the corner below our hotel. Boiled octopus (el pulpo) with a sauce of olive oil & hot red pepper -much over-rated, I think, as it was quite rubbery in texture & flavor, but also rather like the muscle of an oyster. Not a very exciting day, but we were both tired from the long bus ride yesterday & were glad to get some rest! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 55 Date Jan. 21, 1963 Monday Place Buenos Aires and Bella Vista Weather Sunny & warm; rain in evening At 3 Drs. Gallardo & Cranwell came to take us to Dr. Gallardo's father's house in Bella Vista. After over an hour in the train & a 3 or 4 mile taxi ride, we came to Villa Gallardo. It is a photographer's dream, built in the old Spanish Colonial style by his father, who is an architect, & decorated with wonderful old tiles taken from old Spanish houses in B.A. that had been torn down. A little chapel at one end of the porch had a good copy of the Virgin of Luján, & a wrought-iron window from a very old church in Tucumán. Some hollowed-out large stones by the path were Indian pestles, & I saw another in a big log (wood) on the porch. Mr. Gallardo was glad to have his house photographed inside & out. There are some ombu trees in the yard, & some old cactus & crepe myrtle & many others. After tea we collected insects in his field, but it was too dry for frogs. More of the family came (Dr. G. has 6 brothers & 3 sisters), & the many children helped us to collect. We left at 8, & a sister drove us to the station. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 56 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 22, 1963 Tuesday Place Buenos Aires, & en route to Lima Weather Fine, sunny, warm We packed this morning & got some sols at the Cambio. We photographed the Basilica near our hotel on Av. Reconquista, & went inside for a few minutes. It is a real church, not a show place like Luján, & we were glad to see business men & women stopping there to say a prayer. It was not lit for a service, but we could see elaborate gold decorations everywhere, & some small but beautiful stained glass windows far up in the roof. Its iron gate & fence were very beautiful. Then we photographed 2 of the old high wooden carved doors of old houses near the hotel, & the little church behind it. A big tiger tom cat came obligingly to sit in front of the door & be photographed as a Church Cat -We left by omnibus about 8PM, & after an hour's ride reach the Pan Am airport. Engine trouble delayed our start until 1045, & dinner was served about 1130, a bit late for us, & not setting too well in my insides. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 57 Date Jan. 23, 1963 Wednesday Place Lima Weather Cloudy & cool We arrived about 3AM & found the Pan Am had failed to make reservations at the Bolivar Hotel, so we came on to the Savoy, which we like much better. We felt rather washed out morning, but kept the telephone girl trying to get the museum so we could find out when Dr. Vellard & Dr. Ferrara would be there. No result, but the exhibits of the museum are open from 9 to 12, so we'll go out at 9 to-morrow & wait for whoever comes. We take several short walks around the hotel, & found a couple of very old churches, one dated 1720. As we were dissatisfied with the very anaemic lunch our hotel gave us at nearly $2 each, Doris asked the lady at the Cambio about good restaurants, & this evening we tried Raimondi's, where tourists do not come, but where we got steak, rice, tea & orangeade for less than $1 each. -All the servants have Indian blood, & are quite different looking from Argentinians. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 58 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 24, 1963 Thursday Place Lima and Pachacamac Weather Fair and cool This morning we went to the museum at 9, & found Doris' friend, Dr. Ferreyra, the director, but Dr. Vellard, the herpetologist, is in France. After showing us all over the museum, which is too crowded as Dr. F. said, we went to a little adobe annex which contains the frog collections, & where the girl assistant to Dr. Vellard showed me the card catalogue of some 800 entries, most of which I shall copy. The museum closed at 1, & Dr. F. sent us home in the museum bus, & will take us collecting to-morrow -We asked for a tour in the afternoon, & a nice-looking part-Quechua man with a nice car & driver took us & 2 others to the pre-Inca & Inca ruins at Pachacamac, which was The Holy City to the Incas. As it never rains, the huge pyramid of sun dried bricks was in good shape, with vestiges of red & yellow paint still on the walls of the "Oracle Chamber". Afterwards we saw the Inca museum, with pottery, sculpture & weaving from the old graves at Paracas. On the way back, we saw the lovely homes & gardens of Miraflores. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 59 Date Jan. 25, 1963 Friday Place Lima, and 106Km. E. into the Andes at 3500M. Weather Fair, then cloudy & fine rain at the pass. We started with Dr. Ferreyra & his 2 assistants at 8. It took the bus an hour to get beyond the city, & start to climb. The mountains got higher & higher, at first only rocks & a little brown cactus, but as clouds condensed, some green things grew. The great terraces for crops on the slopes were first made by the Incas, Dr. R said, & are still in use. We passed thru some old towns, one of which had been partly destroyed by a landslide 2 years ago. We first stopped at Km. -70 to collect at about 5000 ft., & soon after we started upward again, I felt the "siroche" headache, dizziness & nausea. We stopped at Km. 90 & I was much less enthusiastic about collecting. Then we had lunch at a small dirty restaurant, but I had only tea & 1/2 a cheese sandwich. We went on again to the pass at Km. 106 at 10500 ft., & I collected moss & lichens & looked for frogs at a wet cliff. The Peruvians got passionflower & a beautiful red lily, of which they will give me bulbs. I took many photos, but as rain was beginning to fall we started back at 230, arriving at the hotel at 5. Doris stood it all just fine, but I was really beat! And I'm not going to Cuzco! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 60 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 26, 1963 Saturday Place Lima Weather Fine, sunny, then cool & misty Our botanist friends took us to the big Indian market at Av. Mejico & Aviacion this morning to get seeds for out Dept. Agric., & we got 23 different kinds -9 of beans, 8 of corn, peanuts, peppers, fruits & quinoa (the food grain of the Incas), plus four more that were sent out to be named. As the Peruvians speak Quechua (& are at least part Indian) they have given me the Indian names & meaning as well as scientific names. The market was unbelievably dirty & smelly, & also quite dangerous, as Dr. F. had warned us of many robberies & often murders there, so I left my watch & most of my money at home, & so did Doris, & with our Peruvian friends to talk for us we did not have any trouble. The faces were often interesting & the children quite pretty, with thick black hair & shiny eyes. But they are animal-like too, like the negros, & we got the feeling that we were always being watched. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 61 Date Jan. 27, 1963 Sunday Place Lima and suburbs Weather Fine, sunny, cool. I wrote 40 postcards home this morning! We went on the city tour at 3, & saw "Entre-Nous" a beautiful Colonial dwelling with superb tiles & carvings, where a cute tortoise-shell kitty & the porter & I had a lovely game of chase-the-string. Then we saw a historical society home, much more grand but less appealing, then Rimac across the river, the courthouse, the cathedral where Pizarro is buried, the inquisition house, the suburbs of San Isidro Miraflores, & the bathing beach. I took quite a few photos. We got home at 520, as I think the guide wanted to shorten it. Then more postcards, and so to bed! N.B. I gave the nice porter 10 sols to buy meat for his kitty, and somehow I think he'll do it too! Later (916PM.) My first "earthquake", or at least an earth tremor, as I distinctly felt this 9 story hotel shaking for 3 or 4 seconds. And things had been rolling off my table all day! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 62 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 28, 1963 Monday Place Lima and Callao Weather Misty, sunny, cool. This morning I worked at the museum from 9 until 1 -a full day here! After the siesta from 1 to 4, we got some travelers' checks cashed at the cambio, & as Doris wanted to see the fort of Callao where the big ships come in, we got a taxi. It was a 20-minutes' ride -possibly 4 or 5 miles -of quite level, straight road, & then we saw the funnels & smoke. The taxi driver told us all about it in Spanish, & we managed to understand most of it. He drove along the docks, & we saw the "Grips-holms" & a a boat from Göteborg, & others from Venezuela, Mexico, Spain, Russia & other places, including a big freighter from Houston, Tex. The town has some nice houses, & many not so nice, but we passed lots of new housing developments meant to relieve slum conditions. -I got a germ at the market which has made my throat glands swell, & has given me a cough, so I've just been out to buy cough medicine. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 63 Date Jan. 29, 1963 Tuesday Place Lima Weather Misty, sunny, cool. After I came back from the museum, we had lunch & walked a block to the Rimac river, still very violent even this short way from the ocean, I photographed it & some old buildings on the way. Later we got a taxi to take us "collecting" to Herradura Beach, but there was nothing except a few broken mussel shells. We also stopped where the water runs out of the cliffs & makes a great wet places where maidenhair ferns & mosses grow, & people take cold baths in the drip. Even tho we got the long-armed negro taxi driver to wield a net, we got very few insects. After we got back to the hotel & washed & emptied sand out of our shoes, we visited the silver shop next door to the hotel, & I bought about $12 worth of llama jewelry. We heard hammering in back & asked if we could see the craftsman making the jewelry. There were 3 men & 2 boys, & all were very skilful, specially the one who sawed the intricate parts. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 64 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Jan. 30, 1963 Wednesday Place Lima Weather Fine, cool, breezy. I finished work at the museum & left with Dr. Ferreyra at 1. The botanist will pack & mail my seeds to the Plant Quarantine, for which I left 500 sols ($20) with Dr. Tovar. After lunch Doris & I got some money at the cambio to pay our hotel bill, & I took a few pictures in the neighborhood of the hotel. After an early dinner we sat in the park & looked at the cathedral, which is certainly beautiful just at nightfall. Not much to do except to pack for a 630AM taxi to the airport, & on to Colombia! — But I got 6 letters from home to-day! I needed them!!! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 65 Date Jan. 31, 1963 Thursday Place Lima, Guayaqiul, Quito and Cali Weather Cloudy or sunny, cool or warm. We got the 8AM plane for Cali, Colombia. It was too foggy to see much at the take-off, but in half an hour or so the mist cleared so we saw the immense chain of the Cordillera Blanca which parallels the coast to the north. We could look down on the rocky, arid coast, with a few patches of green along the rivers, & some Indian towns near them. As we neared Guayaqiul the mountains receded & the grew more abundant, while in the river delta the houses were built on stilts to keep out of the floods. We were there only 45 minutes, & then flew on to Quito. When we mounted to 11000ft to get over the ridge, I felt sick symptoms again, & in climbing to 10000ft to get into Valle de Cauca my ears began to hurt, but eating the Pareagra lunch & chewing their quite tough chicken helped me a lot. We got to Cali at 2, & it was very hot on out long ride from the airport. Our hotel overlooks the river & is clean & airy. My ear & jaw hurt for quite a while. Fortunately Doris felt invigorated by the thin air, so I remain the only "casualty". [[end page]]

[[start page]] 66 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date February 1, 1963 Friday Place Cali Weather Sunny, warm, then stormy We went out to Universidad del Valle & located Dr. Marinkelle, who seemed very glad to see us, & who appreciated my frog bulletin I had sent him. He is Dutch, & has been here a year working on parasites. Dr. Thornton is on a trip but will return to-morrow. Dr. M's lab helper is going to collect frogs for me on Sunday. The frog collection numbers about 500 specimens, I judge, none of them identified apparently. The beetle collection was very tiny -only 2 boxes so Doris was disappointed again. She finished them in an hour or so. I went. back after lunch with some collecting equipment for the man, but no one came for it, so I measured the larger frogs until 5, a heavy thunderstorm had come up, but the porter produced a taxi for me in less than a minute, & we drove home by. another road along a hill, so I got a good view of the large flat town all stretched out. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 67 Date Feb. 2, 1963 Saturday Place Cali Weather Cloudy, sunny, then a shower & cooler. Groundhog Day! And if he'd been here, he'd have seen his shadow too, only I don't think his predictions work here. At the university the collector brought in 15 nice lively frogs & toads that he got last night right in town. I'll take their photos next week -Dr. Marinkelle brought in a Swiss friend, Dr. Bart, & they want to take us collecting to-morrow in a grassy area with ponds & marshes about an hour's drive from town, so we'll have an opportunity to see some native plants, frogs & insects for ourselves. As the university closes on Sat. PM, Doris & I walked thru the business section & I bought green glasses & film & postcards. A shower came up very suddenly, so we sat in the postcard shop for 20 minutes or so until it let up & we could return to our hotel. Later we walked to the "Supermarket" across the river & it was amusing to see the rice crispies ads in Spanish. I took photos of some beautiful gardens in a nice residential area there, & of the mountains above everything. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 68 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 3, 1963 Sunday Place Cali, Buga & Valle del Cauca Weather Fine, cool, breezy, foggy At 8 Drs. Bart & Marinkelle called for us in Dr. R's car to take us on a long collecting trip to the north of Cali. First we stopped at some shallow lakes on a farm, after asking permission to go there. There were some lovely scarlet birds in the pasture, & the mountains were reflected in the perfectly still lake. Large "long-horn" cattle came by with a real cowboy herding them. Later we got some peppers, pomegranates, sorghum & other seeds from the farmer's garden, as well as seeds of wonderful rose-&-orange bougainirllea. We passed talc deposits, & red rock colored by iron oxide. We finally came to the Cauca river, & saw ducks on it. White birds originally from Africa stayed among the cattle eating the ticks. At noon we came to Buga, & they showed us an old church dated 1775. They treated us to lunch at a swanky hotel, swimming pool, inlaidwooden dance floor & everything. We came back by a different road thru superb mountains again, & saw new colonies on former Indian lands raising jute, maize, bananas & pineapple. Back to the hotel at 5. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 69 Date Feb. 4, 1963 Monday Place Cali Weather Cloudy, mild. Nine days of constant coughing since I visited that Indian market in Lima, & no sign of a let-up! This is one of the experiences in travelling that is not mentioned in any guide book! -At 5 this evening I had to give a half-hour talk to the faculty seminar of 7 people), & they all said it was interesting. Afterwards one of the Rockefeller people, Liz Wenninger, invited us to her lovely apartment for orange juice & banana cake. Her view of the city is superb, & I photographed it. Then Bill Thornton came to our hotel to introduce us to Dr. Carlos Lehman, who is certainly charming. I asked "the boys" to stay for dinner, which they did, & Dr. L located a beetle collection at Palmira for Doris to see. He also got me 2 tablets for my cough -"Desentriol" -I surely hope they work! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 70 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 5, 1953 Tuesday Place Cali Weather Fair & warm My cough was no better, & as Doris thought she was catching it too. she did not go with Bill & me to Dr. Kokernot's house to see his films of Guajira. Dr. Lehman was there too with film of the fishery at Buga, & of the crested screamer & pheasants in the mountains beyond. Dr. K's house is beautiful with all the things he brought from Africa where he had done public health work for several years. Dr. L. demonstrated how to shoot an arrow from a blowgun. The dinner was perfect, altho I wasn't hungry. I made a hit with the children by finding the toad that hopped in the driveway next door just as Bill & I came in. Dr. K. insisted on examining my throat & ears when he heard me coughing, & says there are granulations on the pharynx, & game me some gargle solution, & loaned me a small electric stove & fan so I could inhale the steam. They were interested in pre-Columbian Indian gold work, & when I told them of Dr. Barth's invitation to me to "identify" his gold frogs, they so interested I said I'd get him to invite them too. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 71 Date Feb. 6, 1963 Wednesday Place Cali Weather Fair & warm I measured a lot of frogs to-day, & should finish by to-morrow or next day, but as Doris had the grippe, we decided to take our friends' advice & not go to Bogotá yet, which is often very cold because of its altitude, until we are well again. My cough was a little less heavy to-day, but as it kept me awake much of last night, I was not too chipper. My discomfort caused me to ask the hotel clerk for a somewhat comfortable chair -of which there are dozens or so in the lobby seldom in use- for my room, but the poor scared rabbit of a man could not -or would not- ask the manager for one of those, & all the other bedroom chairs are right-angled & as bad as mine, so I had to compromise by getting 2 more pillows, so at least I can sit properly in bed. What a country!!! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 72 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 7, 1963 Thursday Place Cali Weather Fair, warm, hot. The man who wanted to collect frogs for me beyond Buga on Sunday has backed out, as he heard that bandits beheaded 4 people there this week. And this is the mild little expedition of 2 old ladies seeking only the lower forms of animal life! Well I did not press the point, & I certainly cant go myself. Dr. Kokernot brought me some antibiotic pills & a bottle of cough medicine containing codeine, so I hope there is a chance of my sleeping some to-night. Doris is about the same, but is very tired after her "3-day grippe". [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 73 Date Feb. 8, 1963 Friday Place Cali Weather Cloudy, then clear & hot To-day I finished work at the university, and Bill Thornton helped me to pack 2 boxes of seeds & specimens for the USNM. A man came to the lab with a big live land turtle from Valledupar in Magdalena, for which he wanted 50 pesos. That was too much, Mariskelle & Thornton said, but the man would not sell for less, & went away. It was a beautiful turtle, with scarlet spots on its arms & legs, & the mouth yellow and red, & the neck skin a lovely rose color, but somehow I could scarcely imagine myself strolling into a luxury hotel with a turtle slung over my arm! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 74 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 9, 1963 Saturday Place Cali and Palmira Weather Fine, warm, then showers & cooler. The tale of the turtle was concluded happily, for just as Bill arrived at the hotel to pick us up, the man with the turtle came by to accept our price of 25 pesos, so I paid him, & then presented the turtle to Bill for a pet on the Rio Raposo station. We got my packages mailed by Pan-Air for $20.72(24lb) but it took the whole morning! After lunch Bill & Hans came by to take us to Palmira to try to see the beetle collections. The door of the insectary was locked, & the key in Cali apparently, but we drove around the gardens, where there were more kinds of crotons than I had ever seen. A huge wall of bougainvillea in several colors covered an entire building, & when I picked up some seedpods, some gardeners asked if I wanted flowers. These men were Dr. Quadricasos' helpers, & were glad to know that we'd met him in Washington. They got me 2 lovely treefrogs from axils of the traveler's palm, & would preserve others for me, as I left them some bottles. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 75 Date Feb. 10, 1963 Sunday Place Cali and nearby mountains Weather Fair & warm, cool on mountains This morning Bill took us for a lovely drive south of Cali into the foothills. Mountain streams that flowed very fast showed the high elevation, & the fields & hills beyond were superb. Lots of handsome beef cattle were in the fields, some with calves. A lot of birds were there, including a red tanager, a kite, & several scissor-tailed flycatchers. But my camera had stripped, so I shall not get a picture! In the afternoon Bill took me on a final ride up to the Three Crosses, as he is leaving for Rio Raposo to-morrow. The road was washed out & very bumpy, full of hairpin turns, & very narrow, but as Bill is a fine driver, we made it OK. The view off from the mountain across the entire Valle de Cauca was superb. Behind the creases, the clouds on the Dogtooth Mountains were superb. But the next film began to strip, so I don't know whetter any of these pictures will be good. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 76 EVENTS AND PLACES Date Feb. 11, 1963 Place Cali and Palmira Weather Cloudy, then rainy This morning Dr. Figueroa called for us at 8 to take us to the Agronomy school at Palmira. It was the beginning of the semester, & students were waiting around to enroll. Doris did not find many beetles, & finished her work by 11 o'clock. A young teacher also named Figueroa wanted to show me some snail eggs, so I went to his home to see them. The snails are much like our Florida apple snails, & I promised to send him info. on them. I am also taking some flies, a leech & some freshwater shrimps to be named. Dr. F. said he would take us to the bus, & I asked him for a few more croton leaves, as Doris wanted some for her neighbor, so he got the gardener to cut me a fine slip from 12 different kinds. This afternoon we got tickets for to-morrow's 355PM flight to Bogotá, as the plane schedule for the Indian fair at Selvia near Popayán that I had wanted to see was impossible, so I gave it up! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 77 Date Feb. 12, 1963 Tuesday Place Cali and Bogotá Weather Cloudy, fine & warm in Cali; cold in Bogotá. As usual we waited around on a plane that did not come, & then it did finally came an hour late. We left at 4:50PM, & went over the high Alps, mostly in cloud banks, and sometimes a high little lake reflecting the occasional blue of the sky. Everything was very rugged down below, & I thought it would not be the place for a crush landing. We got to Bogotá safely, just as the sun was setting at nearly 6, & there was a superb display of orange & pink clouds over the mountains in the west - the Central Cordillera, I think. The Hotel Tequendama was full so was The Continental (Doris had told me not to write in advance for rooms as I had always done, & see what happens!) so we are at the Residencia Staves at a temperature of around 50°F, & not one speck of heat. I finally prevailed on the desk clerk to get the little maid of all work to find a tiny electric heater for Doris' room so she wont catch more cold, [[end page]]"

[[start page]] 78 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 13, 1963 Wednesday Place Bogotá and Medellin Weather Very cold, windy & rainy; warm at Medellin Our Escape from Bogotá was even more sensational than our Escape from Iguassú. I could not breathe when I lay in bed, so I had sat up all night in about 40° with no heat, in the concrete building that never warmed up so I got less than an hour's sleep, & felt accordingly at 6, when I dressed. Doris agreed perfectly, that we would not spend another night in Bogotá, so we went to the Pan Am & got a 420PM ticket for Medellin. Jim Tamsitt came at 11 and took us to the Hotel Tequendama for lunch, where at least we got warmed up, altho we both had headaches from the siroche. After lunch he engaged a taxi to take us around the old part of town, which is very interesting, & finally at 2 to meet Hno. Nicéforo-María, who was very cordial & seemed glad to see me. As it had begun to rain, we kept the taxi, got our baggage, & went to the airport. We are in a very nice hotel in Medellin, & the air is warm & breathable, & we feel human once more. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 79 Date Feb. 14, 1962 Thursday Place Medellin Weather Fair & mild, breezy Sorry, but I ran out of black ink! This morning we went to the Agronomy Institute & found Dr. Gallego who made most of the insect collections. Doris found the specimens good, but mostly not identified, so as usual she finished her survey early, & Dr. Gallego got a student to take us back to our hotel in a jeep. There were no frogs, so I wrote letters while she worked. We got tickets to go to Panama on Saturday by the 11AM plane. Doris' throat got worse (after the Bogotá experience) so she got a gargle, & went to bed early. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 80 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 15, 1963 Friday Place Medellin and Itagui Weather Fair, windy This morning both of us felt as if we had the flu, mine being in the stomach & nose. Doris' throat was better, but we stayed in this morning, except when I struggled out to a leather shop to get an all-leather duffel bag & a belt, & to a courier shop to buy a frog carved of cows' horn. In the afternoon we got a taxi to take us to the Itagui orchid garden, & had a lovely ride along the lower slopes of the mountains past many handsome villas, & thru a couple of clean little towns with nice public squares & churches. Altho most orchids bloom in May here, there were some very lovely ones in bloom now, & the caretaker placed them so I could get good photos. He picked some from 2 different plants for Doris & me, & took some spines from a tall palm to use as pins for pinning them on our dresses. We took his photo, & the taxi driver's, whom we had invited to come in with us. We did not feel any the worse for our ride. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 81 Date Feb. 16, 1963 Saturday Place Medellin and Panama City Weather Cloudy, then fair & breezy We left Medellin in the 11 o'clock plane which did not leave until 1130. It was quite cloudy, so we faile to see the Cauca or Atrato rivers, or any of the Choco, as a solid cloud bank lay underneath us. We passed over Panama City about 1, and came back on the right tack to land. The Panama-Hilton Hotel is a long way from the airport. It is the height of luxury, as our rooms are $17 per day, not including meals. But the balcony is fine & large, with another at the back, & the main street running in front of the hotel. Fortunately they have a coffee shop where we can eat at normal American prices. I talked to Dr. Moynihan, who seems very pleased that we are to visit Barro Colodo, & then to Dr. A.C. Smith, who is visiting her for the day. He was interested in our trip, & thought we were ahead of schedule, which we are because of leaving Bogotá so soon. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 82 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 17, 1963 Sunday Place Panama City and Barro Colorado Island Weather Fine, warm, then cloudy & behind At 11 we got the train for Frijoles, where a native Panamanian met us with the launch. It was a very rough ride across the canal to the Island. We and out baggage rode up the hill on the cogwheel wagon, & found Dr. & Mrs. Bennett & Mr. Crabbs there. They were very kind & showed us the animals & the air-conditioned library. We had an excellent lunch, then unpacked, then sat on the porch watching the birds. Many big boats went by, as in this lake they go under their own power. The birdlife is very apparent, as "oropendula" nests (-orioles) hang from the trees, & the beautiful black & yellow parents keep popping in & out. We saw humming birds with green bodies & reddish tails feeding at the flowering shrubs. Just before dark, some squawking parrots flew overhead, & later 7 or 8 toucans flying singly. An osprey was busy catching fish at the shore line. Three red-tailed monkeys were in a cecropia tree after [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 83 Date Place Weather the sugary pods, & later the "pig", a partly tamed peccary, came & lay down near the kitchen. Tapirs & ocelots are found here, but we did not see any to-night. Afterdark Boca, the Panamanian, took me night-collecting, & Dr. Bennett & Mr. Crebbs came along. It was something for me to descend a hundred steep concrete steps onto a jungle trail, & to poke about many dead leaves for frogs Boca caught 5 Fitzinger's frogs & Crebbs got 1, but no arrowpoison frogs. I was charmed again with the flashlights darting among large treetrunks, & playing on ferns beside the stream. We hunted for over an hour but found little, as it has been too dry here for most kinds of frogs to be out. Boca stayed on for awhile, but we 3 returned to the lab by another steep flight of concrete blocks. I managed to identify the frogs. Crebbs is a former pupil of Dr. Hobbs, & will get crayfish for him. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 84 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 18, 1963 Monday Place Barro Colorado Island Weather Cloudy, warm, humid. We were both tired, & scarcely went outside the living room all day. We watched Mr. Crabbs' bird nets, & he banded 15 birds, of which I got photos of all the different ones. There were 7 or 8 blue & white humming birds in the brush beside the steps when we came down to breakfast. The howler monkeys in the jungle sounded off several times during the day. In the afternoon 2 of the tapirs came up to the kitchen door to get each a big pan of bread, squash & carrots. After dark we put on the insect light & got several good beettes, altho the most common insects were moths, bees & flies as well as mosquitoes. Several kinds of katydids -very large ones- came to the light, & large praying mantids were hunting the moths too. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 85 Date Feb. 19, 1963 Tuesday Place Barro Colorado Island Weather Cloudy, humid, rainy. We took a walk along the Wheeler Trail this morning & saw rainforest plants -huge figtree trunks with mosses, ferns, & shelf-fungi of a lovely orange color, roots everywhere, & great rocks overgrown with creeping philodendrons & other plants. We did not see many insects after last night's heavy rain, nor a single frog, but when we got back, we found dozens of tiny seed ticks crawling on us & beginning to attack. This afternoon I identified my snake as the bronze vine snake, & read another Tarzan story half through. Dr. Moynihan came in for dinner, & is quite a nice young man. -I was collecting insects at the window light for Doris, when a big green katydid turned around & nipped my finger until a drop of blood came. I never knew that grasshoppers could be ferocious! [[end page]]

[[start page]] 86 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 20, 1963 Wednesday Place Barro Colorado Id. Weather Cloudy, humid, then sunny. This morning Tom & Jean Henry came for the day, & as the others had gone to Panama City, Doris & I were their hostesses -altho they'd been here before & knew it better than we did. A red-tailed monkey came near the porch & took a banana from Doris' hand, & I got several fine close-up photos of him. We had a short walk down by the stream where I collected last Sunday night, & I got some Selaginella & ferns as accessories for our Amazon group. Two Panamanians who are collecting for me brought in about 20 Phyllobates flotator, & some tadpoles which may be theirs, also an eel, fresh-water crabs, other frogs, beetles & crayfish, -the last I am very glad to get for Horton. The insects at the light were the most plentiful yet, & the moths are beautiful -blue, green, yellow or marble-colored, sometimes with fuzzy feet, or a heavy abdomen, & all sizes from 6 inches down to tiny ones 1/4 inchlong. [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 87 Date Feb. 21, 1963 Thursday Place Barro Colorado Id. Weather Fair, warm, cloudy, slight shower Another quiet day! Too quiet, because nothing so exhausts me as enforced rest! But we had a little walk to the right fork of Wheeler Trail, & I got a few plants. The 2 Panama collectors have brought in a lot of tiny arrow-poison frogs all of one kind, but the other 2 kinds have not been found yet. They also got some live fish which I hope to take home alive. There were some different moths at the light to-night, -one with ruby eyes had a beautiful marbled brown & tan pattern. Some big scarlet beetles appeared for the first time. In the jungle just before a rain this afternoon it got so dark that the fireflies began to light up. The moths at the lights are in such swirling clouds that they get behind my glasses, in my nose & ears, in my hair, & I've even had a wasp or two inside my dress. The seed ticks we get in the jungle are worse, as they are so hard to find. [[end page]]

[[start page]] 88 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Feb. 22, 1963-Feb 23 Friday, Sat. Place Barro Colorado Id. Panama City, Miami Weather Fair, sunny (cloudy in the morning) We left the island about 12:30 in the big launch because it looked like rain. At Panama City we went directly to the airport which is a long way out, & at 5:30 we got the jet plane for Miami, arriving there at nearly 9. I phoned Osma Tod, & she was very glad to have us for the night. Her home is beautiful, with lots of the plants I gave her in good shape. We had grapefruit from her trees for breakfast, & she & Jim took us to the airport about 9:30, & in 20 minutes got a National Airlines flight home. It was certainly good to get home again! The cats were glad to see me! And maybe some people will be, too! [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 89 Date Place Weather [[end page]]

[[start page]] 90 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Place Weather [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 91 Date Place Weather [[end page]]

[[start page]] 92 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Place Weather [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 93 Date Place Weather [[end page]]

[[start page]] 94 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Place Weather [[end page]] [[start page]] EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED 95 Date Place Weather [[end page]]

[[start page]] 96 EVENTS AND PLACES VISITED Date Place Weather [[end page]] [[start page]] FLAGS OF THE NATIONS [[flags-image]] [[end page]]

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[[start page]] [[map of Cuba-image]] [[end page]] [[start page]] CASH ACCOUNTS NSF grant (check of $599 for travel and in Bank of America checks) $2347 83 [✓delivered to her on Dec. 7, 1962 my own money (in cash) to Bertha 1000 00] My own money (in Bank of America checks) 951 17 (Total in Bank of America checks 2700 00) Average per week: For 13 weeks, government money 134 53 ″ ″ my money 73 17 Bank of America Travelers' Checks cashed 1962 Dec.4 at Brasilia $20 Brazil cruzeiros 13000cr rate cr:dollar 650 5 ″ 20 13000 650 12 Rio 50 38000 460 13 ″ 100 81000 810 19 ″ 40 29600 740 24 ″ 50 40000 800 26 ″ 20 15200 760 31 ″ 50 37500 750 Jan. 7, 1963 20 15800 790 ″ 9 ″ 50 38000 760 ″ 12 ″ 50 Argentina-Pesos 6250 125 ″ 15 ″ 10 1250 125 ″ 18 ″ 70 9464 135.20 to here- $550 [[end page]]

[[start page]] CASH ACCOUNTS Bank of America check Argentine pesos Arg. rate pesos: dollar Jan. 22, 1963 50 6675 133.50 [856.80 pesos exchanged for 170 Peruvian sols] sols Peru sol: dollar Jan. 23 20 534.0 26.70 Jan. 26 30 801.0 26.70 Jan. 28 50 1335.0 26.70 ″ 30 30 8010.0 26.70 ″ ″ 20 5300.0 26.50 pesos Colombian peso Feb. 2 10 95.0.00 9.50 ″ 4 100 99.7 9.97 ″ 9 100 99.7 9.97 ″ 15 20 19.8 9.98 dollars U.S.— ″ 16 100 [[cifrão-sign]]100 1.00 [[end page]] [[start page]] CASH ACCOUNTS [[end page]]

[[start page]] CASH ACCOUNTS [[end page]] [[start page]] CASH ACCOUNTS [[end page]]

[[start page]] ENGAGEMENTS [[end page]] [[start page]] ENGAGEMENTS [[end page]]

[[start page]] LETTER REGISTER Number TO WHOM SENT DATE 1 Dr. Hobbs Dec. 6, 1962 2 Ilse Dec. 6, ″ 3 Wanda, Frances ″ 8, ″ 4 Horton Hobbs, John Bakersmith ″ 12, ″ 5 Fred Medem, Wanda ″ 14 ″ PE Vanzolini, Hélène ″ 16 ″ 6 Horton Hobbs, Clyde Reed ″ 17 ″ 7 Myrtle, Margie ″ 22 ″ 8 Bakermann, Emily, Coly ″ 23 ″ 9 Frances, Ilse, Marinkelle, Tamsitt ″ 25 ″ 10 Harriet Lynn ″ 26 ″ 11 Horton, Cairncross, Bertha (for Bertha Miss Wild) ″ 27 ″ 12 Hotel Catarata de Iguazú, Grande Hotel Moderno, Dr. Lango, Dr. Gallardo ″ 29 ″ 13 Elizabeth Long, Wanda, Dr. Jayme Loyolae Silva, Mrs Ullman, ″ 30 ″ 14 Bertha, Horton, Jan. 4, '63 15 Hotel Regidor Jan. 5, ″ 16 Dr. Geraldo Steiner, Emily Jan. 8 [[end page]] [[start page]] LETTER REGISTER Number TO WHOM SENT DATE 17 Horton Jan. 11 1963 18 Vanzolini, Bertha Jan. 14 19 Wanda, Frances, Dr. Vellard, Horton ″ 17 20 Helen Wood, Jean Loyd ″ 18 21 Ilse, ″ 20 22 Horton ″ 26 23 Emma Cerrate Valenzuela ″ 31 24 Wanda Feb. 2 25 Horton ″ 3 26 Horton, Dr. Geraldo Steiner ″ 7 27 John Bakersmith, Myrtle ″ 9 28 Frances, Wanda, Horton ″ 14 29 30 31 32 [[end page]]

[[start page]] PASSPORT DATA NUMBER Y118483 DATE ISSUED Nov. 20, 1962 WHERE ISSUED Washington, D.C. EXPIRATION DATE Nov. 20, 1967 (5 years) NOTES [[end page]] [[start page]] TRAIN SCHEDULES [[end page]]

[[start page]] PLANE SCHEDULES Dec. 3, 1962.- Lv. New York 9A.M. Arr. Brasilia 9:30P.M. Dec. 5, 1962 - Lv. Brasilia 12:30P.M. Arr. Rio de Janeiro 5P.M. Dec. 26, 1962 - Lv. Rio de Janeiro 1:30P.M. Arr. São Paulo 2:40P.M. Jan. 3, 1963 - Lv. São Paulo 2P.M. Arr. Curitiba 3:20P.M. Jan. 10, 1963 - Lv. Curitiba 10:00A.M. Arr. Foz de Iguassu 12 noon Jan. 11, 1963 - Lv. Catarata, Argentina at 8P.M. Arr. Buenos Aires 2:30A.M. on Jan. 12 Jan. 22, 1963 - Lv. Buenos Aires 10:45PM. Arr. Lima midnight Lima time. Jan. 31, 1963 - Lv. Lima at 8A.M. Arr. Cali, Colombia at 2P.M. Feb. 12, 1963 Lv. Cali at 4:50PM. Arr. Bogotá at 5:50P.M. Feb. 13, 1963 Lv. Bogotá at 4:20PM Arr. Medellin at 5:20P.M. Feb. 16, 1963 Lv. Medellin at 11AM. Arr. Panama City at 1P.M. (by train Feb. 17 for Barro Colorado Id. by way of Frijoles, and launch. Return to Panama City Feb. 22). Feb. 22, 1963 Lv. Panama City at 5:30PM Arr. Miami 8:30PM. Feb. 23, 1963 Lv. Miami at 9:50AM. Arr. Washington at 1P.M. [[end page]] [[start page]] BOAT SCHEDULES [[end page]]

[[start page]] HOTEL RESERVATIONS 1962 Brasilia Palace Hotel, Goias, Brazil Dec 3-5 Hotel Serrador, Rio de Janeiro Dec. 5-26 Hotel São Paulo, São Paulo Dec. 26-Jan. 3 1963 Grande Hotel Moderno, Curitiba Jan. 3-10 1963 Hotel Cataratas de Iguazú Catarata, Arg. Jan. 10-11 Hotel Regidor, Buenos Aires Jan. 12-22 Gran Hotel Bolívar, Hotel Savoy, Lima, Peru Jan. 23-31 Hotel Menendez, Cali, Colombia Jan. 31-Feb. 12 Residencia Steves, Bogotá, ″ Feb. 12-13 Hotel Nutibara, Medellin, ″ Feb. 13-16 Hotel Panama-Hilton, Panama City Feb 16-17 Barro Colorado Id. Laboratory Feb. 17-22 [[end page]] [[start page]] HOTEL RESERVATIONS [[blank page]]

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[[start page]] ADDRESSES [[end page]] [[start page]] ADDRESSES [[end page]]

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[[a blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[ a pile of postcards, the newspapers clippings, and a hotel’s business card]] [[end page]]

[[Hotel Serrador, Rio de Janeiro-image]]

End. Teleg. - SERHOTEL Hotel Serrador Praça Mahatma Gandhi, 14 — Tel 32-4220 RIO DE JANEIRO BRASIL

[[image of a newspaper clipping]] ANO LII — RIO DE JANEIRO, 2.ª-FEIRA, 10 DE DEZEMBRO DE 1962 A NOITE PROPRIEDADE DA COMPANHIA JORNALISTICA CASTELAR

[[image of a newspaper clipping]] na Reunião Inaugural de Hoje Será instalada hoje na Divisão de Caça e Pesca do Ministério da Agricul-tura, a I Reunião da Comissão Consulti-va Regional de Pesca para o Atlântico Sul Ocidental, promovida pela FAO e sob o patrocínio do govêrno brasileiro. Trata-rá o conclave da fixacão das diretrizes [[right side]] rão até o dia 14, observado o seguinte temário: discussão do Grupo ABU de As-sistência Técnica (Argentina, Brasil e Urugai); Cooperação da Comissão com o Grupo Operativo de Trabalho do Uru-guai; Coordenação dos projetos do Fundo Especial da ONU para a região; Coorde- [[End of a newspaper clipping ]]

Hotel Serrador PRAÇA GETULIO VARGAS, 14 RIO DE JANEIRO - BRASIL [[Hotel Serrador business card-image]]

YHN mounted — "my" wolf. Chrysocyon brachiurus nom vulg, Guara guaçu, guara grande. Nova Palmas, Paraná

[[the newspaper clipping with image]] Papai Noel Agora é Figura Máxima em Copacabana [[Santa Claus float-image]] O Departamento de Turismo e Certames engalardou a cidade para o próximo Natal. O carioca, de gênio alegre, apreciará, sem duvida este gigantesco Papai Noel que enfeita a en-trada do Túnel Nôvo, porta de visita de Copacabana. Vemos, na foto, além do bom velhinho, enorme letreiro com a legenda «Boas Festas» e uma bonita estrela de Belém, no momento em que desfilava a caravana de Papai Noel em visita ao bairro [[end of the newspaper clipping]]

alegres, felizes momentos... momentos de hollywood [[ad for Cigarros Hollywood-image]]

[[back cover with a stamp Artomount Genuine Leather ]]