Colombian trip, 1944

[[Front cover]] E P Killip Columbia 1944 [[strikethrough]] 38000 - [[/strikethrough]]

[[end page]] [[start page]] E. P. Killip Smithsonian Institution Washington, DC. [[underlined]] Colombian Trip 1944 [[/underlined]] Instituto de Ciencias Nationales Apt. 2535, Bogota. Apt. 570, Cali

[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] Easter Sunday, Apr. 9. This eventful week starts with my sleeping on the porch at Plummers Island under a bright Pascal moon. Got back to town about 9:30, packed, carried packages & bags over to the locker at 1650. The most glorious Easter weather I've known in Washington, the temperature reaching 82 [[degrees]]. Found Joyce & Lefty on the porch. Took them to dinner at the Annapolis, and then persuaded a taxi driver to take us to see the cherry blossoms, full bloom. Returned via the Pentagon. Reached station about 5:30 but the train did not leave till 10 - four hours late. Dined at station. Had an upper but the berth under me was un occupied, The usual racket!

Mon. Apr. 10 Constant waits and are losing much time. Bar opened about 10, in So. Carolina but the supplies soon comsumed. More taken on at Columbia, Savannah, & Jacksonville. Reached Miami at 12:30, - seven hrs. late. Everything closed, & [[strikethrough]]so[[/strikethrough]] to bed - Pittsburger Hotel. Tues. Apr. 11 Cleared all but baggage at airways office. From 1:30 - 2:30 laid on Miami Beach, got a little tan. Am awfully white. Cleared baggage. Called on Fairchilds. Barbour looks quite sick. Edgar Brown came for me and we went to his lovely house. What a nice place to retire to : Then with Mrs. Brown we dined at Coconut Grove. Back in Miami about 9 and early to bed. [[end page]] [[start page]] Wed. Apr. 12 Up at 5:30, bus left airways office at 6:30. Breakfast at airport at Dinner Key. Took off on hydroplane at 8:15. Glad to find the blinders on the windows have been done away with so one can see everything. Arrived Cienfuegoo [[strikethrough]] 8:1 [[/strikethrough]] 10:30, sent postal to Joyce, had a couple of rums. Left at 10:45, going eastward along the coast a ways, then south. Passed over Jamaica shore at 1 pm. Many roads, many small hills. Imagine this is the cockpit country. Heavy rains to east on north side of mts. Coconut palms look starlike from above. Rather bumpy. Docked at 1:30 pm. Nice hostesses. Had 2 planters' punches on the house. Left at 1:155. Fine lunch on plane between Cuba & Jamaica, consisting of [[strikethrough]] bouilon [[/strikethrough]] soup, fruit cup, fried chicken, 3 sandwiches,

chocolate bar, & cake. Later had icecream & wafer. Reached Barranquilla at 6 pm (5 pm. Colombian time). Dugand not at airport, so went to Hotel El Predo, a very grand and likable place. Tried to get Dugand's brother-in-law, Don Rafael Rousallas, the Mayor, but he was out. His brother called me up later. As no word from Dugand decided to try and get on the Bogota plane in the morning. [[underline]] Thurs. Apr. 13. [[/underline]] Up at 4:00 and at airport about 5:30. Watched the many passengers with several children and [[strikethrough]] bag [[/strikethrough]] much baggage get weighed; plane overloaded so I couldn't get on. Returned to hotel, then to ticket office but they wouldn't give me a reservation till Sat. Later Rousallas phoned & said he would use his influence to get [[end page]] [[start page]] me on tomorrow's plane. Which he did and I changed my ticket at the airways (Avianca) office. Walked around downtown then about the residential section near the hotel. Very beautiful!. Wrote Joyce. [[underline]] Fri. April 14 [[/underline]] Up again at 4 am and this time got on the plane, which left at 6:20. Visibility poor. Solid cloud floor below us but sun bright up here. Plane has 21 seats, 16 occupied Clearing at 8:15, and dense forest to be seen. How perfectly compact the tops of the trees are! Like a mossy mat, the grayer trees suggesting Leucobryum in the moss mat. No sign of Central Cordillera -probably behind the cloud bank. Bare patches of ground becoming frequent. At 8:20 crossed the Magdalena. View reminds me of that early morning at Las [[end page]]

Vegas [[strikethrough]] with [[/strikethrough]] in 1926. Note the absence of trails thru this jungle, at least no sign of them. Some land-locked lakes look interesting. 8:40 - Cordillera Orental [[strikethrough]] look [[/strikethrough]] is now very clean & the Central appearing thru the clouds. Don't see Johina. 8:55 - well over the foothills now, which are nearly all bare. Real cold. Crossing steep escarpment and are now on the Bogota plateau; very green, level country. Facatativá below. Heavy rain over city. The above written on plane & copied. Dugand not at airport so took bus to ticket office & phoned him. He did not get my wire [[strikethrough]] about com [[/strikethrough]] sent from the Bar. airport until 9:30 and was out at the plane. He came to the ticket office. Got a room at Hotel Astor (the hotel I stayed at before tho it now occupies the former U.S. Embassy. [[end page]] [[start page]] Took taxi to Cuidad Universtaria, much built up since 1939, and was so greeted by Hernando Garcia and others with the Spanish half-hug and handshakes. Dugand took me home to lunch at [[underlined]] his lovely [[/underlined]] home. Returned to Instituto and worked. As in Caracas, my time is spent about the same way at this Herberium - naming things, checking records, answering questions, etc. Some steel cases, made in Bogota, have recently been installed and in them is the main [[herberium?]] - the named things. In the wooden cases is material to be named or to be mounted. Back to the hotel, where the meal hours are Breakfast 7 - 9 Lunch 12:30 - 2 Tea 4:30 - 7 Dinner 7:30 - 9

Walked down Carr. 7, the main [[stem?]], to the Grenada, and had 3 whiskey & soda's & a swell free lunch. Drinks there are uniformly 1 peso. Nice to see the old dives. Sat. Apr. 15 AM. spent at Herb., where, thank God, they don't work Sat. afternoon. Went to Garcia's in the pm - swell house & furniture. Nice wife & children. Has many plants in his patio and about a dozen rabbits. Had tea (chocolate) there. Bummed around in the evening a little and early to bed. Wrote [[strikethrough]] [[Marg?]] & [[/strikethrough]] Joyce. [[end page]] [[start page]] Sun. Apr. 16 Garcia & Gutierrez called for me about 9 and we taxied over to the "funicular" and ascended to Montserrate, a climb of about 900 meters. The open place in front of the church was filled with people, sort of a market day. We had a shot of "Palito", a very fine aquadevite, which I clearly see is going to be my favorite drink in Bogota. Walked up the road a short distance, then cut down the mountainside toward the East. Nice collecting all today. Had bought a drink (rather a few) at a tienda and ate it among frailejones about noon. Then went upward to the good trail. Our purses being too full we decided to return. Rained. Garcia made me a hat out of a newspaper but I didn't

wear it. Swell view of city once we got back to the church. Especially the bull ring, densely packed, and Cuidad Universitaria. Descended via funicula and visited Quinta Bolívar, the Mt. Vernon of Bogota. Beautiful furniture and garden. Had sausages across the street from the hotel, then changed. Met the Garcías and Gutierrez later for a movie but "Standing Room only" so we went to La Cabaña and drank. Wrote Maxon. [[end page]] [[start page]] Mon. April 17 Am now settled down to the herbarium routine, which consists of naming specimens for anybody & everybody. So from now on will merely write "Worked at Herb." to cover these periods. In pm. Dugand took me to the Police Hdqts.. to apply for a cedula. Then to Embassy but the Ambassador was ill and leaving for the States Saturday. Called on Geib, the Agr. Attache and had a pleasant talk, mostly about barbasco. Then to F.E.A. where was greeted by Miss Thompson, apparently a girl I knew in Washington. St. John had just arrived Dugand & I then drank beer at a dive on Carr. 7. On returning to hotel found [[strikethrough]] Ca [[/strikethrough]] Core, and [[end page]]

we chatted for about an hour. Perez Arbelaez called up that he would come around. We had a few drinks of my terrible wine, then dinner here. Walked downtown, stopping at El Tiempo for a story of my visit. (See date of 4/20). Then at La Cabaña. [[underlined]] Tues. April 18. [[/underlined]] Instituto all day. Perez Arbelaez came about 7, giving me a few specimens and lending his copy of the Mutis paintings index. Then a drink at the Grenada and a very big dinner on [[him ?]] at the French restaurant, Normandie. 15 [[strikethrough]] [[plaes?]] [[/strikethrough]] plates of hors d'oeuvres followed by 15 more of mainly meats. Soup & camenbert followed. Was too completely stuffed to feel like doing anything more so went home [[strikethrough]] at [[/strikethrough]] and to bed. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Wed. April 19 [[/underlined]] Started on Jicama plants with Dugand in am. Lunched at his house, went to bank and to police for my cedula. Then to Museum. Walking back from bus (which gives free transportation to & from Univ. City) was stopped by my old friend Giullermo Varela, now [[strikethrough]] th [[/strikethrough]] with the Rockefeller Foundation. He had seen me while in a streetcar and dismounted. We visited a while at my hotel. Rained ± all day, with much thunder - something unusual so they say. Early to bed.

[[underlined]] Thurs. April 20 [[/underlined]] More rain. Instituto all day. Called on Mrs. Allen but she wasn't in, so went to next apartment to see Dr. & Mrs. Dunn. He asked, did I drink, and we started in. Had dinner with them at a very fine restaurant, then to La Cabaña. Quite high. [[underlined]] Wrote Cuati. [[/underlined]] [[underlined]] Friday, April 21 [[/underlined]] Bad hangover but managed to keep going at Herb. Garcia had bought some Palito (a swell brand of aquadevite) a few days before; a couple of shots helped. On one of his [[interlarding ?]]] [[strikethrough]] cp [[/strikethrough]] cups (the largest) he has written "Vasito killipiana", reserved for me. [[underlined]] Wrote Joyce. [[/underlined]] [[strikethrough]] Hadd [[/strikethrough]] Hard rain at noon. Early to bed. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Sat. April 22 [[/underlined]] Big lineup at office on [[pain?]] for tickets to tomorrow's bullfight. Police have sidewalk roped off to keep people from horning in at head of line or asking others to get their tickets for them. On return at noon there was no more line, the tickets being sold out. But scalpers approached us and it doesn't seem so very difficult to get seats from them. Went down to F.E.A., met Grant, who was going over a recent collection of his with St. John. I named nearly everything for him, at least generically. Then it started to rain and poured & poured way into the evening. I just ran from door to door or cantina to cantina, watching the Sat. pm. crowds and having an occasional beer. Ray Fosberg phoned he would call

for me at 10. He had his car and Miss Thompson, of the F.E.A. First we went to Hotel Granada for a couple of daiquiris, then to the leading nightclub in town, La Reina. Too crowded and drinks very expensive. I didn't have my usual pep, perhaps from having been on my feet all the week, [[underlined]] sitting [[/underlined]] at a desk at the Herb. not being practicable. Left before the others but even so it was 3 am. Wrote Cuatrecasas [[underlined]] Sun. April 23. [[/underlined]] Up about 8 tho I was quite sleepy. Walked thru the wonderful Parque Nacional nearby. Beautiful Tibouchinas in bloom. 4 or 5 wax palms there, Arancasias, Podocarpus, etc. It is next to the bull ring and some 50 scalpers approached me to sell a ticket. Finally bought one [[end page]] [[start page]] Wrote Joyce, Wetmore, & [[Pemnal?]] from the Administrador of the hotel - for 7 pesos, a "sombre" ticket, probably 2 pesos too much. Got to bullfight about 1:30 with camera. Police arrangements fine. Had good seat but the first bull didn't start till 3:30. The 2 hours were interesting in watching the crowd, especially the antics of various gangs in the "sol" seats. They would discovered prominent men and cheer for them to come over for special greetings. The grand entrance parade was led by Conchita Cintrón, the popular toreadora from Peru, who has the town nuts. She didn't do so well with the first two bulls, the death strokes not being clean on the first one, and the second bull being injured from the start, acting dopey [[end page]]

and constantly backing away. Finally 2 more bulls were brought in and all three led away. The male [[strikethrough]] fight [[/strikethrough]] toreadors then handelled two bulls pretty well. Conchita took on the fifth one and was wonderful. She stuck in the bandrillas from [[[strikethrough]] horses [[/strikethrough]] horseback, then on foot used the red cloak for some very fancy work. The death stroke was on the second try. And what an ovation! She had to go round & round the [[strikethrough]] hun [[/strikethrough]] ring, hundreds of hats and coats being [[strikethrough]] thro [[/strikethrough]] tossed in. For further details see the letter I wrote Joyce in the evening. In bed by 9. [[end page]] [[start page]] Mon. Apr. 24 - Wed. Apr. 26 These three days have been much the same. Dugand & I are working on the Friana plants steadily. My legs are so wearing from standing up all day that feel like doing nothing in the evening. All three nights got to bed by 9. Tues. Garcia came in with me and we had some eats at "tea time" downtown. Wed. I called on Mrs. Allen before dinner. She showed me some fine souvies Paul had got from the Indians. Afternoons at the Instituto we are visited by the many [[strikethrough]] gr [[/strikethrough]] [[quineros?]] in town - Grant, Ewan, Kernan, St. John, Core, & Fosberg. Apr. 24 wrote Mrs. H. & Steere " 25 " Sneidman On the 26th came my first letter from Joyce and I glad to see it!

Thurs. Apr. 27 Same stuff during the day but after work I felt in the mood for a brawl. Had a few beers downtown, then visited the bowling alley. Swell to sit near the alleys and drink. Also had a couple of martinis at the Granada. Then to La Cabaña. Dance music got me so I called up Dorothy Allen and she came around (Probably I went & got her). Remember nothing more till 6 am. Friday, Apr. 28 Bought a carton of [[Pielrogis?]] for $5. Took Dr. & Mrs. Dugand to dinner at the French restaurant. [[end page]] [[start page]] Sat. Apr. 29 Lunched with Ray. Took streetcar to end of line at 67 [[superscript]] th [[/superscript]] St. & back. Had tea but skipped dinner, wishing a long sleep. Sun. Apr. 30 Wrote Joyce. Ray called for me at 10 am. with Grant. Picked up Mrs. Little and Mrs. [[S?]] Drove southwestward over pass at San Miguel (9100 ft.) to Fusagasugá. Grand collecting & I got about 50 numbers. Beautiful Begonia, [[Gesmen?]]., etc. Saw lots of ferns but took only 2. [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] Tried to get lunch at a swank hotel west of Fus. but were too late. Bought some food in marketplace & ate while driving back. Hard rain. [[strikethrough]] Rea [[/strikethrough]] Went over to Tequendama Falls, getting there just in time to [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] see it with a lot of water going over. In Bogota at 7:30.

[[underlined]] Monday, May 1. [[/underlined]] Labor Day & a holiday but Dugand was to be at Inst. in am. so I took yesterday's collection out by taxi & worked them up. In pm. watched beginning of Labor Day parade. Placards. Then a terrific storm broke, with hail. Got under cover and watched the crowds take it. Another storm at night. [[underlined]] Tues. May 2 [[/underlined]] Worked on [[Triana?]] Comps & got things ready for our trip tomorrow. Met a Frenchman at the Inst. & his nephew, who had just returned from being with De Gaule's army in Africa & Italy. On way back to city another terrific rainstorm, which lasted most of night. In am. called at Embassy and had nice visit with Daniels. [[underlined]] Wed. May 3. [[/underlined]] Left [[strikethrough]] Bar [[/strikethrough]] Bogota at 10 am for Apulo, arriving at 2:15. Dr. & Mrs. [[end page]] [[start page]] Dugand, their sons Alberto & Roberto, Jaramillo, & I making up the part. Our Hotel Apulo a beautiful big, open place, with fine meals. Lazed around in the afternoon getting acclimated to the hot weather. Early to bed. Rained at night. [[underlined]] Thurs. May 4 [[/underlined]] Up at 5:30 but didn't get thru breakfast till about 6:30. Then D, J, & I, with a boy named Ignacio as [[strikethrough]] as [[/strikethrough]] guide we went across the Apulo River and climbed ^ [[insertion]] ± east [[/insertion]] up from 455 m (Apulo) to about 600 m. Roadside thickets but good collecting. Got ± 80 numbers. Took pictures. Back about 11 and after lunch spent some hours putting the stuff in press. Most interesting things were Capparis of macrophylla. Early to bed. Rained toward morning.

Fri., May 5. Up at 5:30 and off before 6, the boy leading us [[insertion]] N. [[strikethrough]] E [[/strikethrough]] [[/insertion]] up along the R. Apulo a short distance, then quite a way up an arroyo, [[insertion]] (the Quebrada [[Arrnago ?]]). [[/insertion]] Think we got Ormosia apulensis. Then swung around to the railroad & worked back to town, getting back about 10:30. Jaramillo & I took off the dried plants. The stove I had in Venezuela smokes as bad as ever and we shall not use it any more. Got 65 numbers & put them in, a job lasting till 4:45. [[end page]] [[start page]] Sat. May 6 Took off dried plants and packed. Mrs. Dugand & the boys left for Bogota at 9, and we left in the opposite direction at 11:55. Reached Pubenza at 12:45. This is a tiny town but with quite a few people about on Saturday. Jaramillo found out his brother had been called to Bogota by sickness, so had the car we were expecting. In about 1/2 an hour horses were ready for us, and we rode the ± 2 mi. to the Hacienda Cucharo, on the road back toward Tocaima. A mulecart was sent for our [[strikethrough]] [[farg p ?]] [[/strikethrough]] baggage but it did not get back to the Hacienda till about 5. We collected 2 or 3 numbers along the road. Rigged up the stove but found the plants collected yesterday

are spoiling. We have no extra driers but quite a lot of papers, which we inserted. This is a swell ranch, more than 5000 acres - mainly cattle. Many rancheros & cowboys. A roomy house, the help very nice to us. Sun. May 7. One of those very enjoyable days that come 2 or 3 times on a trip (Like Guaiquima on Apr. 13 last year). Up about 6 after a night of raining which seemed exceptionally hard because of the noise made by the water running off roofs into collecting barrels. Breakfast was grapefruit, steak & potatoes, & chocolate. Then we hiked up a [[quebrada?]], usually dry but with quite a stream [[end page]] [[start page]] flowing as a result of the night's storm. Collecting was very good and got 50 numbers, the best being Amaria petiolota; Capparis securidaca; a Sapindaceous tree, with leaves crowded near the top and large [[raceumre?]] of white flowers; an [[Apoc.?]] near [[Ambelarium?]], with much latex (perhaps a good rubber source). 3 or 4 things we couldn't guess as to family. It began to rain rather hard but soon we got used to it and to sloshing thru the stream and soft mud. Back about 1, and without changing clothes ate up the swell lunch of grapefruit, chicken, rice & noodles, a sweet, & coffee. Then [[strikethrough]] changed [[/strikethrough]] took off press, changed driers on

the overflow, and put the morning's plants in press. Then took a short hike down an arroya east of the house. We all got a doze of insects but so far they haven't bothered me much. A lovely afternoon, sun and not too hot. [[underlined]] Mon. May 8. [[/underlined]] My camera, which had been left in Pubenza, was brought here, and we left about 8:30 on horseback for the last corral, La Cabaña. Thru [[strikethrough]] grass [[/strikethrough]] [[putrero?]] first, then a grove of "saman". First collection was from a tree of "guarjacáu chaparro", evidently a vr. sp? of Bulnesia. Photographed it and we took several specimens. After about 45 min. ride from house we reached the deep gorge of the Quebrada Cabaña. [[end page]] [[start page]] Many ferns on the perpendicular walls, also a [[Gesuer?]]. An [[underlined]] Aphelandra [[/underlined]] very common, also [[underlined]] Amaria [[/underlined]], which we found in fruit. Two Peperomias & about 3 [[Pipero ?]]. Kept ascending this to its origin, where we came out on the Potrero La Cabaña. Spent [[strikethrough]] [[up?]] [[/strikethrough]] about 1/2 hour at the shack there, then returned, arriving at the ranch house for a 4 o'clock luncheon. Then worked on plants. [[underlined]] Tues. May 9 [[/underlined]] Up early and collected [[underlined]] Cordia alba [[/underlined]]. Then packed and hung around waiting for the horses to be saddled. At 9:30 there was a slight earthquake, lasting about 10 seconds. Could hear the eaves troughs rattling and chair shaking. The usual delay in getting horses

ready. The cargo is to go on a donkey. At last we three got off leaving Marco to bring on the cargo. Had about 1/2 wait at the station, becoming desperate as Marco didn't show up. Just as the train came in sight, he appeared, 2 or 3 of the townsmen helping push the beast. Just barely got the cargo transferred to the baggage car. Chicken for lunch. Tho the train left Pubenza on time it lost nearly an hour going up. On reaching the crest down to the Sabana saw the plains flooded tho no rain just then. Reached Bogota 6:50 pm., and was warmly welcomed at the hotel. Early to bed. [[end page]] [[start page]] Wed. May 10 Found letters from Mason & Wetmore at Inst. but none from Joyce, alas. Started in to dry the big lot of wet things from the trip. Hovanitz, an entomologist with the Rockefeller people at Villavicencio, showed up and invited me to dinner at his home. Terrible rain again in the evening. The boarding house is run by an Englishwoman and the 3 other people at the Table were a Canadian and 2 from US. Herman & Schultes live there. Hovanitz walked [[backed?]] with me and we had a couple of beers near the hotel.

Thurs. May 11 Hermann showed up at Inst. In p.m. called on Gerberich. Talked about Cuat. coming to States and Gerberich will look up papers about him. T.C. [[cooked?]]. Wrote letters at noon, in evening, tho had a walk down the main stem. Again early to bed. No rain this eve.! [[underlined]] Friday, May 12 [[/underlined]] After work went with Otoya to his house to see his stamp collection. A very fine one, beautifully prepared. He has about all the air stamps of Columbia and most of the general issues. His father & mother served us beer and [[strikethrough]] h'our [[/strikethrough]] hors d'oeuvres. Then met Hermann at La Cabaña and had [[strikethrough]] dinner [[/strikethough]]. Bowled. I am rotten. [[end page]] [[start page]] Letters written 5/10 Joyce 5/11 AW, Johnnie, Lehmann, Pittier, Lasser, Cardona 5/12 Maxon ([[underlined]] enclosing [[/underlined]] 2 checks) 5/13 Mrs. [[Cuatr?]] 5/16 Joyce 5/18 A.W., Maxon, Allen Apol. Maria, Schuster 5/20 Joyce. Papuyan. 5/21 Dugand 5/22 Mrs. White 5/27-28 Maxon, Wetmore (note) 5/29 Sam 5/30 WRM, Dugand 5/31 Joyce (card) 6/1 Mary Louise 6/2 A.K., Francis 6/5 Joyce, Al 6/7 Hotel [[Pittsburger?]] 6/11 E.C.L. " Cards to E.H.W, J.B., Marguerite, Waldron, Corman, 6/15 Daniel, Tomas 6/16 Joyce [[strikethrough]] 6 [[/strikethrough]] " Don

6/17 [[Venning?]] Lehmann 6/22 Goodspeed (card) Geo. Brooks " " 6/26 Johnnie, Soc. Caldas, [[Petthier?]] (Jarcamillo, Garcia cards) Dr & Sra. Cuatrecasas [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Sat. May 13 [[/underlined]] Had an aching leg from last night's bowling. Wrote Sra. Cuatrecasas. God knows when I'll get away from the heavy rains having interrupted traffic and plane reservations being unavailable for some days. Took taxi to Estadio El Campin but the football game was off. So walked along track to Cuidad Univ. Stadium and watched one there. Went bowling again - with Fosberg, Hermann, and Hovanitz. I'm still terrible. [[underlined]] Sun. May 14 [[/underlined]] Garcia called for me at 9:45 and we walked over to the Instituto de la Salle for a meeting of the Sociadad de Ciencias Nationales. It was quite late in starting, and consisted in the giving of notes by the President, Bro. Apolinar, and of reading a couple

articles from books, one, quite long, from Gaudichand's travels in South America. He also showed some things - tongue of an ant-eater, [[strikethrough]] and [[/strikethrough]] 2 pieces of quartz, and specimens of [[Ipececaque?]] oMomordica charantia, the latter having on it my ident. label. Went to football game at El Campia. [[underlined]] Mon. May 15 [[/underlined]] At Inst. in am., returning to city at 11:30. At 12 all transportation & many other activities stopped as a result of a political demonstration. Waded thru the crowds on Carr. 7 and Plaza de Bolivar. Bought plane ticket for Cali. This being the day I try to collect at least a few plants each year I climbed up the hill back of the Library and got about 5 numbers; they happened to be quite interesting. Early to bed. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underlined]] Tues. May 16 [[/underlined]] Got [[strikethrough]] 4 [[/strikethrough]] Priorty 4 for Barranquilla to Miami on June 26. Worked hard all day. Called on Hermann, who was in bed with a cold. [[underlined]] Wed. May 17 [[/underlined]] The most strenuous work all day - Apolina's Leg's, Uribes' Leg [[strikethrough]] s [[/strikethrough]] ; sorted collection with Dugand etc. Dugand gave a dinner for me at Cafe Berchart (?). Present were Dugand, Garcia, ^ [[insertion]] Guterrez [[/insertion]] & Jaramillo (botanists), and Murielo, Otoya, Quintana & Richter (Entomologists). A grand feed. Afterwards Gutterez, Otoya & Quintana took me to a dive for w.& s's, then to [[strikethrough]] [[2 ?]] [[/strikethrough]] dancing places, where "hostesses" (one an American) joined us. Got back to hotel at 5 am. Quite a successful farewell evening altogether.

[[underlined]] Thurs. May 18 [[/underlined] Ascession Day & a holiday but Dugand, [[strikethrough]] thru [[/strikethrough]] Gutterez, & I got out to the Herb. about 8:30, and I cleaned up everything. Then lunched at the Dugands, their 3 boys being there. [[strikethrough]] They [[/strikethrough]] ^[[insertion]] We [[/insertion]] all drove over the Paseo de Bolívar, which runs along the mts. up a way. Collected [[underlined]] Cobaea [[/underlined]]. Spent the rest of the afternoon packing and writing letters. Made a farewell trip downtown before dinner, and early to bed. [[underline]] Friday May 19 [[/underline]] Jaramillo reached the hotel about 9, bringing a batch of photos for me, including some of the [[strikethrough]] f [[/strikethrough]] bullfight. Then Dugand, Garcia, his wife and one boy, and Richter, Garcia driving his car. Got to airport about 10, and shot thru the weighting. Conchita Cintrón was there and I asked her to autograph the picture of [[end page]] [[start page]] her in the bullring. Which she graciously did. Plane left at 10:40. The sabana much flooded, many roads way under water. Saw the Magdalena but soon ran into clouds and got no view of the high mts. Tolima, Huila, or Ring. Cleared toward the western slopes. Entered El Valle just north of Buga. Landed at Cali at 11:50. Dr. Ciro Moliná Garcés, Secy of Agriculture of El Valle, was there to meet me with his official car. With him were the Secy of Agr. of Tolima and his assistant. Drove to Hotel Alfarez Real for highballs, then to the new apartment house, Edifico Gutierrez Velez where Cuatrecasas lives. he arrived in a taxi at exactly the same second - from a month's trip to the coastal area south of B'ventura. I have a lovely room. Went over to the Escuela in the p.m. and

found Mrs. Bylander at work there. Nice she has something interesting to do. [[underline]] Sat. May 20. [[/underline]] Worked at herb. in am. till about 11, then called at Secretaria de Agricultura & met several people. Don Ciro took us out for some beers. I feel very lazy, the warm weather after the coolness of Bogotá being the cause. Got some paint on my white coat, but it finally came out with soap & hot water. However, I bought a nice light suit. Cuatr. & I took in an outdoor basketball game in the evening. [[underline]] Sun. May 21 [[/underline]] Cuatr. & his 3 children, and I climbed the Cerro de las Cruces: a foothill in the Western Codillera near Cali in the morning, [[end page]] [[start page]] collecting about 30 numbers. [[underline]] Rhynchosia pittieri [[/underline]] was very showy, also [[underline]] [[Dioclea acricea?]] [[/underline]] and [[underline]] [[Nicosia?]] albicans [[/underline]]. Lazed around in afternoon. Don Ciro took me to the Municipal Theater in the evening where a swell show - ^ [[insertion]] folk [[/insertion]] dancing, & singing - was put on. [[underline]] Mon. May 22 [[/underline]] Put in press yesterday's plants. They have big stoves with gasoline [[strikethrough]] lamps [[/strikethrough]] heaters. Then went to police to register. Worked at Herb. in afternoon. Our apartment is on the 3 [[superscript]] d [[/superscript]] floor, with a big front balcony, having a fine view to the s.w. toward the [[strikethrough]] fr [[/strikethrough]] Frajanes, ± 2000 m about the Valley level. A Spanish friend of the Cuatrecasas called at dinner time. He is a professor at Univ. of Quito. Later Don

and 4 of his "people" called on me. He suggested a trip from Cartago to the Chocó. [[underline]] Tuesday May 23 [[/underline]] Left Cali on the autoferro at 7:25 am., in heavy rain, for Popayán. This is a fine single car which goes very speedily. Notes made on train read as follows: "All ranches, only 1 village. 7:55 - Large grove of bamboo & some Heliconias. Low hills near tracks; fine [[castle?]]. 8:00 - Granite. 8:10 - Timba (1003), crossed Rio Timba valley much narrowed. Brightly colored orange & blue houses. Train from Popayán passed us here 8:30 - San Francisco (1018m). Rio Cauca being dredged here and much gravel along it banks. 8:55 - Suarez (1030m). 9:05 - crossed [[end page]] [[start page]] Rio Cauca, which is now on west side. 9:20 - Jelima (or Gelima). Steep banks of rr., wet & with many ferns. Aganche not seen, far to East. 10:00 - Morales (1670 m) RR. now ± follows the old highway of 1922. Remember stopping here. 10:20 - Piendarnó. New station & beyond a fine bridge over R. Piendarnó 10:40 La Capilla (alt. 1750), 25 km. north of Popayán" Arrived Popayán 11:15 am and was met by F.C. (Carlos/Lehmann & Kyill von Sneidern. Went to Hotel Europa (4 pesos per day). Nice room with bath. At once drove around the town. No Peoples' Club outside city - swimming pool, some couples drinking beer and dancing. We had a few drinks. In town located our old bldg., now a police station. After lunch went over to von Schneidern's laboratory &

and looked over 3 boxes of his herbarium specimens. His own are in good condition but some Asplund left with him are badly eaten. Von S's are in ±8 sets and are all destined for Stockholm. The boys took me to dinner at the Popayan Club, an elegant place, with fine paintings. Bummed around town till late in the night. [[underline]] Wed. May 24 [[/underline]] Carlos came for me about 8, and we drove some 30 Km. to his family's ranch, where his grandfather made many of his collections. A boy & I went into a forest and worked down a stream, then out of the forest & collected trees at edge of stream. Many ferns & Peperomias. Didn't get back to house till 2:30. For lunch had a pigeon Carlos had [[end page]] [[start page]] shot. Started back about 4 pm and soon into terrific rain. Road bad but Carlos is a good driver and his Ford very efficient. Collected some on way back. Reached Popayan about 7:30 pm. Early to bed. [[underline]] Thurs. May 25 [[/underline]] The principal changes in Popayan since 1922, as I note them are: (1) paved streets; (2) new buildings; (3) greater liberty for the women. The churches are the same, and their bells ring as usual. The bell tower nearby is very old. The clock, which lacks the minute hand, has kept perfect time for ages. During the Revolution Nariño removed the lead weights to make bullets and replaced them with rocks of approximately the same weight. These are still in use. Spent most of morning and afternoon [[end page]]

at Kjell's putting yesterdays plants "in press". There were 70. Got some over his gasoline heater but don't know how soon they will dry as his "boards" are narrow, like European sheets. After lunch Carlos took me to call on the Rector of the University. Took a picture of Puracá; very clear this pm. The Rector, Dr. Lemos, asked me to contribute a paper to their Revista: Registered with the police. Called on Doña Natalia [[Iragarre?]], spending nearly an hour. Talked about the [[Pernells?]]. We sat in Don Jorge's office, which she had left untouched since his death four years ago. After dinner Sr. Angel Chaux called about Padre Gomez' plant paintings. They aren't much. [[strikethrough]] Early to bed [[/strikethrough]] Band was serenading Velasco Ibarra, who is a candidate for President of Ecuador. Saw him in front of Hotel Lindburgh. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Friday, May 26 [[/underline]] Another red-letter day! Carlos called about 7 and we drove to the [[Paianeo?]] de Puracé. Stopped several times for water for the car, so I collected some on way up. Carlos was after birds for Wetmore so we had other stops. Also there was a [[dericumbo?]], which a peon was clearing away. A beautiful day & the Western Cordillera stood out very clearly. Got good pictures of the [[underline]] narrow [[/underline]] Cauca Valley & of Puracé (from east side). Roberto, Carlos' [[bird?]] brother, was along, also the ayudante. Latter was bitten by a dog at Purace village, but it didn't seem to bother him. Spent much time [[strikethrough]] [[in?]] [[/strikethrough]] the open paramo, with sphagnum marsh. Espelitia hartwegiana, Puya were conspicuous. At ± 3400 m. got a [[Mutiara ?]] that may be new; also on a [[underline]] steep [[/underline]] wet

bank [[underline]] Isoetes [[/underline]]. Went down eastern side a ways and photoed the chorrera of the Rio Back near the top Carlos spoke of a curious plant he had seen [[strikethrough]] near [[/strikethrough]] on the bank of the Rio Cocuy where he had gone to [[strikethrough]] colle [[/strikethrough]] gather in a bird. We spotted it with his field glasses & the boy went down for it. Proved to be an immense [[underline]] Lupinis alopecuroides [[/underline]]! Gradually worked backwards and didn't reach Purace Village, where we had ordered lunch to be ready by 4, until 5:30. Had a big "lunch". Evening views swell - sunset over Munchinque grand. Got back to Hotel at 7:30. Cleaned up & went out for a few beers. Quite early to bed tho. Nos. 38500-611; 112 numbers [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Sat. May 27 [[/underline]] At exactly 7 am I reached Von Sneiden's and put in a very strenuous 4 1/2 hours, [[strikethrough]] pro [[/strikethrough]] writing up yesterdays plants and packing. Carlos and [[space left blank]] called & we went to see Pepe Iragorri, all of us going to the Club Popular for a drink. Carlos & [[space left blank]] lunched with me. Left Popayán at 3:15 pm. The two big bundles of plants weighed 34 Kg. (3.40). Raining over Purace tho the Volcano can be dimly seen. (Later) Par. de Guanacos quite clear. [[Paiano de Delicias ?]] not visible [[strikethrough]] from [[/strikethrough]] as their train is in cuts leading down to Rio [[Picudaurio]] Many hairpin curves later as train descents from Jelima to Suarez where it crosses Rio Cauca. Ar. Cali at 7, Cuatr. being at station. Von Sneiden called.

[[underline]] Sun. May [[strikethrough]] 30 [[/strikethrough]] 28 [[/underline]] Cuatr. & I worked all am & most of pm. on the last half of the Puracé plants. His ass't, Marcantonio putting them between laminos and [[on?]] stove. [[strikethrough]] (See opp. page [[/strikethrough]] (For diagram of stove [[strikethrough]] ) [[/strikethrough]] see 2 pp. following) [[Maitta?]], Cuatr. & I went [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] out to the San Fernando park. Watched futball a little and had beers in the pavilion. [[underline]] Mon. May 29 [[/underline]] Worked on Duque plants. [[underline]] Tues. [[strikethrough]] June 1 [[/strikethrough]] May 30 [[/underline]] Same as above. In the evening went out with a friend of Cuatr. whom he had asked to show me the night life. We visited "Calle 15" region. Club [[end page]] [[start page]] Monte Cristo a very good place. [[strikethrough]] Wed. June 2 [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Wed. May 31 [[/underline]] Worked a couple of hours on Duque plants. Then got [[strikethrough]] Pua [[/strikethrough]] Popayan photos, which came out very well. Packed. Left [[strikeout]] Popayan [[/strikethrough]] Cali at 12:19 pm. Got a kick seeing La [[Cumbia ?]] again. Began to rain & this was intermittent all the way to the coast. Cactus country most interesting and sometime want to collect there. Best place is at stop of Lobo Guerrero (formerly Espinal). Reached Buenaventura at 7 pm. and went to Hotel Estación. Miss the former Administrator, Sr. Garcia, and the simpatico bell hops. In bar found my old friend

Molano. Quite a gang at our table, also at dinner table. Was tired and rather bored with the conversation, of which I got little. Early to bed as it was raining too hard to wander around. I have a very noisy room - people talking across the street until late and engines getting up steam- [[strikethrough]] Thurs. June 1 Up early and wrote up this diary [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Sun. June 4 [[/underline]] (10:10 pm) I give up trying to bring this diary up to date. Get no time whatever during the day and at night I'm too sleepy, because of a strenuous day or/and lots of beer in the evening to write anything [[end page]] [[start page]] "Oven" for drying plants at Escuela, Cali. [[image of four cubicles with Presses]] [[torn off page with numbers and calculations -- see details next page]] [[end page]]

Gehr. Holt & Gehr [[column 1 of 2]] 1 - 67 80 - 208 210 - 290 341 - 413 [[line]] 68 - 79 [[line]] 291 - 340 [[red arrow]] [[column 2 of 2]] 67 118 80 72 [[line]] [[red arrow]] 337 [[line]] 11 49 [[line]]

1944

Molano. Quite a gang at our table, also at dinner table. Was tired and rather bored with the conversation, of which I got little. Early to bed as it was raining too hard to wander around. I have a very noisy room - people talking across the street until late and engines getting up steam- [[strikethrough]] Thurs. June 1 Up early and wrote up this diary [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Sun. June 4 [[/underline]] (10:10 pm) I give up trying to bring this diary up to date. Get no time whatever during the day and at night I'm too sleepy, because of a strenuous day or/and lots of beer in the evening to write anything [[end page]] [[start page]] "Oven" for drying plants at Escuela, Cali. [[image of four cubicles with presses and steam nozzles]] [[right marginal entry]] Concrete walls; metal slabs put in front. Metal criss-cross forms [[/marginal entry]]

I'll write today's doings right now and pray I'll get a chance to get caught up.- This day was to be given over to exploring the lower end of the Cali-Buenaventura highway. It was opened some weeks ago but soon thereafter close, on acc't of landslides. Didn't understand the arrangements Cuatrecasas had made, and was surprised to find, when we got to the place where transportation started, that we were to go in a "dirt" camion with some 30 other people, mostly blacks sitting or standing in the main [[part ?]]. We sat in front. Didn't get away till 9:30. Reached Sabaletas about 10. Here a bridge is being constructed and traffic is ferried across - big things like our camion [[end page]] [[start page]] on a [[strikethrough]] big [[/strikethrough]] barge, people in canoes. Left our things on the near side and canoed across. [[strikethrough]] Found a shack near our [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] Found an interesting trail going into the forest on the north side of the road, a short distance beyond the Rio Sabaletas [[blank space]]. A paradise for ferns, Pipers, aroids, Calathias, Pileas, etc. Got a lot of numbers there then went out to the road and followed it perhaps 1/2 a mile. On getting back ^ [[insertion]] (at 2 pm) [[/insertion]] to the house where we had left our things, including eats, were told they had padlocked our room for safety, then found they had no key. So a fellow forced the lock [[strikethrough]] ed [[/strikethrough]] and we ate. Had to wait sometime for a truck to come from

Agua Clara, farther up the road. Didn't get back till 6:15 pm. Big crowd of fellows leaving football game retarded our progress thru the city streets, also a procession of girls in bridal veils, coming from Confirmation. Decided not to work on the plants tonight, so wandered around a little and early to bed. [[underline]] Coll. 38742-817; 76 nos. [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] Thurs [[/strikethrough]] [[underline]] Fri. June [[strikethrough]] 2 [[/strikethrough]] 1 [[/underline]] [[strikethrough]] Changed my room to #306 on the ocean side, quiet, airy, and a swell view. [[/strikethrough]] Left about 7:30 in motor canoe but engine wouldn't work after a few moments out so we paddled over to Isla de Punta ^ [[insertion]] de [[/insertion] Arena, on north side of Bay. A trail went inward thru the "mangles" and alongside the woods of the tierra [[end page]] [[start page]] List of people who have been helpful in Buenaventura. [[underline]] Sr. Pachon [[/underline]] ^ [[insertion]] de la Torre [[/insetion]] - Servicio Cooperativo Inter-americano de Salud Publica; motor canoe for June 2 trip & San Juan. [[underline]] Dr. Dominguez [[/underline]]. Jefe de la Adriana. [[underlined blank space]] Capt. of the Port. Sr. [[underline]] Pastor [[/underline]] Llanos, [[Recandor?]] de Rentas Departmental. His office was under our workroom Let us use it; also launch for [[underline]] 2d day's trip.[[/underline]] Sr. Echevarri, Jefe de la Carretara in the section; trucks for trips [[strikethrough]] on June 2d, 4th days [[/strikethrough]] to Sabaletos & Agua Clara.

firma, so got both kinds of habitat. Many Bromels and aroids in the trees. Predominant tree [[underline]] Pelliciera [[/underline]]. The canoe, with another motor, came back about 12:30 and we went straight out to the southern point at the entrance to the Bay but didn't stop [[strikethrough]] ped [[/strikethrough]]. Swung around [[strikethrough]] then [[/strikethrough]] into a channel [[underline]] (Estero de Bodegas) [[/underline]] thru the mangles on the southern shore. Very picturesque. Back about [[strikethrough]] 3:30 [[/strikethrough]] 4 pm and put things in presses until dinner at 8:30. Nos. 38613 - 659; 47 nos. Arena 660 - 681; 21 " Bodegas [[line]] 68 [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Thurs. June 1 [[/underline]] Changed my room to #306 on the ocean side, quiet, airy and a swell view. Spent the day getting organized. Nice to see Bylander again. Note: [[strikethrough]] part of this [[/strikethrough]] This part of the diary is being written up June 9. Had I been able to keep up to date I would tell for the day of June 1 about the many plans made for us. At the time it looked as if the world were at our feet with lots of exploration possible. But my time was short and delays seemed inevitable and had to be allowed for; so I cancelled most plans, tho Cuatrerasas with his tremendous energy wants to do everything.

[[underline]] Sat. June 3 [[/underline]]. We were due to take a Govt launch at 7 am but didn't get away till about 8:30. Went to northern point at entrance to Bay, Playa Basán & got a few plants. there. Then to a place called Colorad[[strikethrough]] o [[/strikethrough]]a, on the north shore, tierra firma with dense forest. A lot of interesting things, including a plant of [[underline]] Tuberostylis axillaris [[/underline]] and [[underline]] Muellera [[/underline]], [[strikethrough]] [[Fochareda?]] trail [[/strikethrough]] both close to the landing place. Followed a trail inland to a clearing where there was a fallen building. I climbed up into the forest and got a few things. Back about 3:30 and put stuff in press, not eating dinner till 9. Nos. 38682-691 = 10 nos, Basan 692-727 = 36 " Colorada [[arrow indicating following text should appear before the previous paragraph]] Made a final stop at a dry - land place ^ [[insertion]] in [[/insertion]] Estero de Cangrejo, on no. shore. Here got 38728-740 [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Mon. June 5 [[/underline]] Part of the morning spent putting in press [[strikethrough]] Sunadd [[/strikethrough]] Sunday's things from Sabaletas. Wrote Joyce & Al on balcony in front of my room, watching boys playing soccer on the muddy beach. In pm. we went to El Forge, just this side of the first highway bridge, i.e., at the eastern side of the town. Recognized this as the place I got the type of [[underline]] Tuberostylis axillaris [[/underline]]. Collected in the marshy ground near the soccer field, and took a tiny canoe a few minutes into the mangles, it being high tide. [[strikethrough]] Had a party with Bylander & [[pospe?]] and the pilot of the Barranquilla plane, and others. Then to Baylanders apt. for a [[/strikethrough]] No. 38817 - 840 = 24 nos.

[[underlined]] Tues. June 6 [[/underline]] What a day! We planned to go to Agua Clara, the last point one can reach now on the Carr. al Mar from this end. Tho the camion (the same type of dirt truck we took Sun) was promised for 7 am, we didn't leave till about 8, then stopped half an hour at the Inspector's house; he went with us. Many delays on route for water as the tank leaked no end. The stop at Sabaletas to ferry across the river wasn't very long, and we collected nos. 38841 - 863 (23 numbers), some of these being on the way back. Road passed thru interesting-looking country at San Pedro. Reached Agua Clara about 11:30, and went to the house of the chief of the division, a fine house. Had a beer, then started straight [[end page]] [[start page]] up the hill to a climb of about 25 m. into dense forest. At first there was a clearing and we got a lot of good things there. Then on and on. Specially interesting were Hypoderris(?), a Thibaudice, Monolaena. It rained hard and I got soaked. Went back to Aqua Clara in heavy rain; boys working on bridge all through it. This place is the end of the highway at this end. Truck was due to take us back at 3, but didn't get away till 3:30; then at Sabaletas waited till 6 pm while the inefficient mechanics tried to get the lights fixed. They were very feeble all the way back and we drove mostly thru darkness. Got home about 8, and after dinner put about 1/3 the stuff in press. Results. Nos. 38841 - 863 = 23 (Sabaletas) 864 - 865 = 2 San Pedro 866 - 935 = 60 Agua Clara

When I went downstairs at the hotel for dinner the proprietor took me over to the radio which was telling about the [[underline]] Invasion [[/underline]], first I knew it really had come off. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Wed. June 7 [[/underline]] Cuatrecasas came to my room early to bring the bad news that about 1:40 am. one of the gasoline stoves had exploded resulting in a big fire. The firemen had soaked our plants with water and he feared most were lost. What a blow! All day we worked over the bundles which were just singed or slightly moist and the debris. We saved a lot but until everything is put in numerical order I can't tell how much we lost. [[insertion of paragraph from below]] The Alcalde summoned us to his office and gave a polite bawling out for using gasoline stoves. I agreed with him. They are too damn dangerous. [[/insertion]] Tossed a party with Bylander before dinner, and later [[strikethrough]] [[who?]] [[/strikethrough]] went to his apt. and had quite a long talk. Left at 1 am.

[[strikethrough]] [[underlined]] Thurs. June 8 [[/underlined]] Worked on the ± ruined plants in the morning. Then got a canoe with the intention of going out among the mangroves just east of the city - my old collecting ground. But the wind was too strong to round the point so we gave up the canoe and hiked to El Forge, near the football field. It was high tide so we borrowed a tiny canoe and spent bout 1/2 hr. meandering around. Nos. [[/strikethrough]] [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Thurs. June 8 [[/underline]] Cuatrecasas stayed in to work on the plants which needed change of driers. Marco Antonio has gone back to Cali for more driers. I went back to El Forge and stayed till 2 pm wallowing in the mud. Looked in vain for Tuberostylis axillaris. Got a swell little orchid tho (no. 38952) [[strikethrough]] Coll [[/strikethrough]] Nos. 38936-967 - 32 nos.

[[underline]] Fri. June 9. [[/underline]] Took the motor canoe to the Quarantine station; heavy rain which let up a little. Once I got wet felt swell and there and at Boca de Lobo, our second stop, had a grand time in the mangrove mud. Collected quantities of the two species of [[underline]] Tuberostylis [[/underline]]. Back about 2 pm and put [[strikethrough]] stiff [[/strikethrough]] stuff in press. Then watched the packing of much of our equipment to be sent with Mark Anthony tomorrow to Cali, where he can use stoves. Party before dinner with Bylander and Capt Gonzalez, who may fly us to Andagoya. He is head of the army air service here. Nos. 38968 - 978 = 11 (La Cuaranteria) 979 - 993 = 15 (Boca de Lobo) [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Sat. June 10 [[/underline]] Wrote up this diary. Heavy rain. Took a taxi about 8:30 to go back along the highway as far as Rio Dagua bridge. Stopped first at Km. 8, then Km. 15, where it started to rain. Got harder & harder. Went to the bridge & there collected some numbers on a bench along the river, it pouring torrents. Put the plants in forms at a [[strikethrough]] [[levla?]] [[/strikethrough]] [[insertion]] shack [[/insertion]] near the bridge. Then the car wouldn't start - something broken so we had to wait till the construction truck passed thru. Drank aquardiente and went out in the rain intermittently. Back about 6 pm, and early to bed.

[[underline]] Sun. June 11 [[/underline]] Put in press yesterday's plants, which are to go to Cali on tomorrow morning's train. Watched football on the low-tide beach, also in the sloppy field near the Consulate. Had dinner at Bylander's, swell fish, with Lister, the U.S. Vice-Consul, Capt Gonzalez & Cuatresasas. Was awfully tired and sleepy and could scarcely keep awake after dinner. [[end page]] [[start page]] Mon. June 12 - Wed. June 14 Trip to the delta of the San Juan. Left Buentura 5:30 am. Launch, belonging to SCISP, is about 25 ft long & 8 ft wide, twin-motor, 4 berths amidship. Arrived mouth of San Juan 9:40 am; & proceeded upstream. Sunny day & I lay around in shorts on the "roof". Indians came out in canoes to get into the backwash of the launch, laughing and greatly excited if they tipped over. Swung to Brazo Carbaceras at 12:30 pm. [[insertion]] (Pl. VII - 1.) [[/insertion]] and went westward again, then north (thru a branch I can't find named on map) to settlement of Togomorá, a [[strikethrough]] chickl [[/strikethrough]] chicle company's compamiento, reaching there about 2:15. Warmly welcomed by several Walked thru a swamp to the beach on [[strikethrough]] the [[/strikethrough]] Bolia Togomorá, a nice sandy beach. Collected nos [[line, to be filled in with copy]]. My tan is hurting a lot. Put plants in press on the porch of the principal houses. Big celebration that

night for [[strikethrough]] St. A [[/strikethrough]] San Antonio. The drums and tom-toms went all night, so I didn't sleep much, my tan hurting like hell. Next day (Tues.) took launch [[strikethrough]] up [[/strikethrough]] as far as safe up Queb. Togomorá, then a canoe we were towing. Cuatr. was certainly good at seeing things along the forested bank. I contributed little to the day's successful collecting. The narrower the quebrada the better the collecting. Swung up a narrower branch. Back to launch & down to the settlement about 3:30. Put in plants until late. I was very tired and ate no supper. [[underline]] Wed. [[/underline]] Left Togomorá at 6:30. Raining. Made good time and it soon cleared. [[strikethrough]] 3 [[/strikethrough]] Indian boys three times got into the swash but I never had my camera ready. Reached [[Boturer?]] at 2:30; some delay in landing baggage. Went to [[baunli ?]]. Then much work trying to save the [[end page]] [[start page]] collection. Dries in am. Also frantic packing to get away tomorrow. Find we had left over about 75 gal. of gasoline, which Cuatr. is bringing. Took with us 3 vats of 52 gals each. [[underline]] Thurs. June 15 [[/underline]] Left [[strikethrough]] Cali [[/strikethrough]] Buenaventura at 7 am, arriving at Cali about 1 pm. Saw several plants of [[underline]] Jatropha tubulosa [[/underline]]. Bought an orchid from a boy at Cisneros. Spent afternoon at Escuela on plants.

[[underline]] Fri., June 16 - [[strikethrough]] Thurs. [[/strikethrough]] Wed. June [[strikethrough]] 22 [[/strikethrough]] 21 [[/underline]] These days were much the same, I frantically working to put our collection in numerical order and separate it into sets. Cuatr. & Marc Antonio all the time getting the fresh stuff dried. Two days I had coffee at 6:30, then started working, returning for breakfast, and keeping it up till 5:30-6:30. Then, usually, would meet the Cuatrecasases at the Tarazzo & have a few. Dinner about 8, and then we usually would sit around and talk till 10 or 11. Finished separating the plants the am. of the 20th. Rest of day & part of 20th put in [[Naphthalium?]]. Rest of 20th & part of 21st worked on Duque collections and packed the specimens. Also made a trial packing of my [[end page]] [[start page]] baggage, which weighed 23 1/2 Kg. The division of the specimens was hard. Cuatr. wanted 2 sets, one for the Servicio Botanico del Valle, one for himeself to take back to Madrid. I owed Dugand one, so split perhaps too finely. Sorry there are 30 numbers divided 1 to us, 2 to C.& C., none to Bogota. Still, everyone got a pretty good lot of specimens. Duque came to town and I saw him several times. The eve of the 20th Srs. Rodriguez & [[strikethrough]] [[Sanclamania?]] [[/strikethrough]] Sanclemente called and took me for a walk thru the beautiful residential part nearby. Then we sent Duque and had several at the Alfarez Real. The Governor of El Valle came over to our table. Also met my old friend Sr. Buenaventura, who was Sec'y of Agr. at my visit in 1939.

Yesterday was rather terrible, trying to find people and I hanging around while Cuatr. talked with people. Got very tired, tho relaxed over a few beers with Duque. Rodriguez called (somewhat a pest) and tried to date me up for a lot of things. People kept calling so I went to my room and had dinner there, then early to bed. [[underline]] Thurs., June 22. [[/underline]] Wrote up this diary for the past several days since Buenaventura. Cuatr., Mrs. Bylander, & I took a taxi to the crest of the Carretera al Mar, Mares, ± 1890 m. Collected the Ceroxylon but not in fruit. Got [[space to be filled in]] numbers altogether. Back to town about 12:30 and put plants in press [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Friday, June 23. [[/underline]] Last minute packing. Called on Governor for about half an hour's audience. [[underline]] Sr. Joaquin Rodriguez [[/underline]] took up to a Catholic school to see their museum, but it wasn't much. At 9:30 he gave me a banquet at Restaurant [[Sautanderiana?]]. About 15 present, including Secy of Agr., Director of Escuela, Cuatr., Head of Postal Service. Afterwards, five of us went to Calle 15.

[[underline]] Sat. June 24 [[/underline]] Bought a collection of stamps for C.V.M. and myself. People began to come to say goodbye. First Mrs. Bryander, who later sent over some stamps. Then Duque and Marc Antonio; pictures taken with them & Cuatr. in parque opposite Edificio. Then came two others from the school. Finally Ibarra. The whole family & M.A. & another took me in a taxi to airport. Left. [[underline]] Cali [[/underline]] at [[underline]] 12:10 [[/underline]] pm, a 21 - passenger plane but only 10 people. The notes written in my memo book regarding flight read: [[strikethrough]] " [[/strikethrough]] Clear sunny weather; many curves in Rio Cauca. 12:50 ar. Cartego, Hector [[Gonig?]] & a friend [[arrow indicating insertion from bottom of page]] Henry Duperly C., [[/insertion]] at port to greet me. He gave me photos of our 1939 trip to Rio Digua. A few moments ride beyond Cartego the R. Cauca [[end page]] [[start page]] comes out of the hills into the valley, the latter continuing northward but occupied by some smaller streams. We followed the Cauca, which at first is in a rather narrow gorge. Medellín is in a broad valley. Ar. Medellín at 2 pm. Bro Daniel, ^ [[insertion]] & [[/insertion]] Bro Teófilo [[strikethrough]] Bro [[/strikethrough]] : [[space left blank to be filled in]] and the following students from the Colegia, all members of the Sociedad de Caldas, were at port to welcome me. Carlos Restrepo A Hernando [[strikethrough]] [[Pan?]] [[/strikethrough]] Panagor E. Mario Llano A. Francisco A. Piedrahita, Presbitero They took pictures and bought me a beer. Daniel gave me a letter

of greeting from the Sociedad de Caldas signed by the Pres. & Secy. Wish I were staying here a while. They seem very simpatico. Had planned to present me to the college. Bro. Daniel had written me up for the newspaper, of which he gave me a copy. They made me promise to visit Medellín first on my next trip. Only 3 passengers now. Ran into heavy storm at 2:35 but soon passed thru it. 2:45 climbed up high over another storm. 2:50 - crossed Cauca; dense forest everywhere. 3:10 - can see Magdalena Valley. 3:30 - land much inundated. No more high mountains now but some low hills. 3:45 - Yarumel. 3:50 - Clear weather, El Carmen. Now near the Magdalena Valley, the [[end page]] [[start page]] Cauca having entered it back a ways. 4 p.m. - now following the Magdalena northward, with much inundated land below. Arrived Barranquilla at 4:20 pm. Went to Avianca - P.A. Office; tomorrow must get a Jamaican visa. Then to Hotel Prado. Went downtown a while but the town doesn't have the 5 - 7 pm. life of Bogota and Cali. Early to bed in spite of the dance with very noisy orchestra right below my room (Room 6). Slept thru many dances.

[[underline]] Sunday, June 25. [[/underline]] Lucky I got here a day in advance of taking off as I didn't have OK of US Consul stamped on my passport or visa for Jamaica. Getting these took from 9:30 to 2:30, and might have been longer had I not met a Mrs. Sawyer, from Sta Marten on the same mission and she knew the ropes for a Sunday when the consulates were closed. Finally got the U.S. from Mr. Leonardy, a good egg, whom I hope to see in Washington this year. The British were kind of snooty. In pm. wrote letters & had a few drinks in this delightful site. Palm-fringed pool, etc. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Mon. June 26 [[/underline]] Up at 5:15 and at 6:20 took bus to airport. Mrs. Sawyer made the plane. Left Barranquilla at 7:35 am., [[strikethrough]] [[?]] [[/strikethrough]] 31 passengers. An interesting Cuban couple sat opposite me, he a very swarthy Indian, she a much-fixed-up girl. Arrived at Kingston at 11:10 and left at 12 M, delay being due to what? Had 2 free Planters' Punches there. Same hostesses as on way down. Clouds over the Blue Mts. and could see little of them. Tried to spot Hollymount. Lunch about 12:50. Arrived at Cienfuegos at 3, a very rough landing; left at 3:25. Most of the passengers bought Baccardi (5 qts. allowed each U.S. citizen and/or cigars;

Why didn't I? I know I'll regret not having done so. Left Cienfuegos at 3:25. Arrived Miami airport at 5:30 pm (6:30 E.W.T.). A terrific rainstorm broke just as we got out of the plane, Health exam. consisted of taking temperature. Then were served coffee. They refused to unload the baggage because of the rain, so we hung aroung the Customs room for more than an hour. My 2 bags weren't brought in till last load; then the censoring of all my books, pictures, etc. took +/- 15 minutes. Got to hotel about 8:30. Frank [[?** Verning **?]] was there, having only today received my letter. Had dinner at Vick's, then went out to Verning's [[ NEW PAGE ]] apartment, far out in Coral Gables. Back to town in time to toss off a few before the midnight closing hour.

[[underlined]] Tues. June 27 [[/underlined]] Picked up my Pullman reservation, got a $50 T.C. cashed. Went to Miami Beach about 10 and [[strikethrough]] spent [[/strikethrough]] stayed till about 3:30 having a glorious sunbath. Used the suntan oil plentifully and got burned only on my left foot. Went to fish docks in Miami. Then Verning met me at 6, and we dined at a bayside seafood place. Then we partied around till about 11:30. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[underline]] Wed. June 28 [[/underline]] In a college car Verning drove me, with Prof. Buswell, out to Coconut Grove. Called on Dr. Fairchild and talked awhile. Started for Chapman Field, then turned back, having seen Loomis in a car that passed us. When we got in front of the Fairchilds' a tired went flat (very convenient place!) so we borrowed Swingle's car and went back to the Station. Loomis arrived and we visited a little while. Then to the Univ. of Miami, lunch at the college restaurant, meeting a Dr. Smith, marine zoologist. Then to see Verning's histological work and the local herbario arranged by Buswell, some 30,000 specimens. Rest of pm.

in Miami bought presents for the family and sat around in the park for a farewell sunbath. Steak dinner at Vick's very swell. Packed and early to bed. [[end page]] [[start page]] [[blank page]]

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[[blank page]] [[end page]] [[start page]] Letters Rec'd 5/27 WRM (2) CVM, Dugand Lasser 5/29 [[Johnina?]], Sam, Steere 6/8 A.K. 6/15 Joyce (mailed 5/26; [[insertion]] Rec'd [[/insertion]] Bog. 6/2) " [[Ditto for 6/15]] Morton " [[Ditto for: mailed]] (5/31 Cali 6/13/ " [[Ditto for 6/15]] WRM " [[Ditto for: mailed]] 6/10, " [[Ditto for: Cali]] 6/13 not censored " [[Ditto for 6/15]] Witmore " [[Ditto for: mailed]] 6/2 [[Ditto for: Cali]] 6/13 " [[Ditto for 6/15]] Hollister " [[Ditto for: mailed]] 5/25 Bog. 6/4 " [[Ditto for 6/15]] [[Pietier?]] " [[Ditto for: mailed]] 6/2 " [[Ditto for: Bog.]] 6/4 6/16 [[Verning?]] 5/31 6/17 Wetmore 6/13 6/22 Joyce 6/10

Expenses ([[underline]] not [[/underline]] in black book) 6/15 Hotel [[Botuna?]] [[strikethrough]] 1 [[/strikethrough]] 2/3d 5.50 Tip to bellhop .30 [[strikethrough]] was [[/strikethrough]] " [[Ditto for: Tip]] - woman 1.00 6/14 To Cuatr. 50.00 6/15 Tip to waiter .50 Baggage to station [[strikethrough]] pd by Cuat. [[/strikethrough]](3 pieces money from Cuat. to EMC. -.50 [[strikethrough]] To [[/strikethrough]] 1 tickets [[insertion]] 1 [[underlined]] a [[/underlined]] [[/insertion]] B - C [[insertion]] pd by EMC [[/insertion]] 9:10 455 Left B 7am. Orchid [[insertion]] [[Cissons?]] [[/insertion]] .50 ([[Treat pd?]] .15) [[Rock?]] [[list [[?]] on B trip No. 5 High bank west of [[P?]] to Bazan 6/14 6 Rio Dagua gorge just below entrance from East. Jatropha frequent here. [[end page]] [[start page]] T.C. cashed US Rate Total 4/12 $50 165 Vouch OK 82.50 4/13 70 167 [[insertion]] Avianca [[/insertion]] No vouch 4/13 4/19 100 174.28 174.28 5/11 150. 174.28 261.42 5/22 200 169 338.00 6/9 50 164 82.00 6/14 50 164 82.00 6/16 100 168 168 _______ ______ 870 1345 1 peso = 65¢

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4/24 Airmail to Wash. .35 4/25 " " [[Ditto for: Airmail to]] Papayan .25 Tea .85 [[end page]] [[start page]] 4/13 Taxi airport to hotel 2.00 " [[Ditto for: Taxi]] to & from ticket office 2.00 " [[Ditto for: 4/13]] Air ticket Bar. - Bogata 90.00 $70 T.C. cashed at 167 = 4/14 Hotel Barranquilla, 1 da. 11.00 Tips at hotel .50 Excess baggage Bar. - Bog. 4.50 Telegram to Dugand 1.00 Left Barranquilla 6:15 am Ar. Bogota 9:20 am Baggage tip .20 4/16 3 fares up Monserrate (self & assistants)1.20 4/17 Transporting specimens hotel to Inst. .85 Police permit 1.00 Taxi to Embassy .75 x Ink .35 4/19 Taxi to & from police 1.15 [[arrow indication insertion]] [[insertion]] 4/19 $100 TC at 174.28 = 174.28 [[/insertion]] 4/22 Tip at hotel (1 week) 1.00 Hotel Astor, 7 day B. & L. 42.00 4/22 Airmail to Cali .25 4/24 " " [[Ditto for: Airmail to]] Ecuador .

[[stamped]] 438100 [[/stamped]] p. [[circled]] 1 [[/circled]] Expense Acct. [[strikethrough]] 4/9 [[/strikethrough]] 4/12 Left Washington 10 pm. [[strikethrough]] Taxi to station [[/strikethrough]] 6 passport photos [[arrow indicating insertion here]] $3.00 4/9 Taxi to station .50 10 B on train 1.00 L " " [[Ditto for: on train]] 1.10 D " " [[Ditto for: on train]] 1.15 4/[[strikethrough]] 12 [[/strikethrough]] 10 Ar. Miami 12 pm.- Taxi train to hotel .50 4/11 B .60 L .95 Hotel Pittsburger (Room 4/12 [[strikethrough]] Taxi [[/strikethrough]] Bus to airport .85 B at " [[Ditto for: airport]] .90 [[strikethrough]] Ar. Barranqu [[/strikethrough]] Left Miami 8:20 am. Ar. Barranquiela 6 pm. [[line across page]] Columbian pesos Tip baggage at airport, Bar. .25 " " " [[Ditto for Tip baggage at]] hotel .25 $50 T.C. cashed at 165 = 82.50 peso Tip at dinner .25 4/13 Hotel (1 da) 11.00 Tip " [[Ditto for: Hotel]] .40 " [[Ditto for: Tip]] to & from airport .40 [[end page]] [[start page]] [[stamped]] "EL [[MS SAJERO?]]" [[LIBRARY]] [[PAPELENIA?]] [[/stamped]]

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