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The Bigger Picture: Visual Archives and the Smithsonian

Love It! Where Can I Buy It?

by Marvin Heiferman on February 24, 2010

 

As President (Dwight David) Eisenhower turns away laughing, his wife (Mamie Eisenhower) also grins as she takes a closer look at the wedding gown she wore July 1, 1916, when she married the Chief Executive, The President and his wife, helping officially to open a First Ladys inaugural gown exhibit at the Smithsonian Institution May 24, walked to a nearby alcove to see the wedding gown on display, 1955, by Unknown photographer, Photographic print, Smithsonian Institution Archives, Record Unit 95 Box 56 Folder 32, Negative Number: 2002-10613. Back in the old days, influential magazine editors, art directors and superstar fashion photographers—like Richard Avedon and Irving Penn—worked together to produce lavish photo-shoots and publish eagerly awaited monthly fashion spreads. Look at the fabulous and justly famous “Think Pink” scene from the 1957 movie Funny Face below—in which Kay Thompson plays a fashion magazine editor—and you’ll get a sense of how fashion news and imagery was once concocted. The time, money, industry muscle, and off-the-wall and startling creativity involved were impressive. And on a much-reduced scale, that’s still is the way things are done today, if you’re still paying attention to conventional media outlets for news of what’s “fashion-forward,” as they say on Project Runway.

But to better understand how times and the realities of the fashion business and fashion photography are changing, read Claire Cain Miller’s recent piece for The New York Times that details how online celebrity sites—like Celeb Style and Just Jared (make sure to check out the “Get the Look” tab under celebrities’ pictures) have established themselves as fashion’s new arbiters and, going a step further, have set themselves up to provide personal shopping services and collect fees for those services. The mechanics of the process are interesting. Companies like Pixazza help celebrity blog and style websites to tag fashions in the paparazzi photos they feature and link to retailers who sell the clothes celebs are seen in or, even better, identify places to buy similar, but even more affordable versions of them. So if you see, for example, Reese Witherspoon in a cute little black dress you’d like for yourself, you can click through and connect to a vendor who’ll help you out. It’s a win-win situation for all involved. Consumers find the looks they crave without having a stylist on payroll. The celebrity websites that provide this service collect small commissions for hooking up fashionistas with retailers. People get paid to study and deconstruct paparazzi pictures and then do the necessary comparison-shopping research based on what they see in them, because it turns out that visual recognition software is not up to that task, yet.

 

Screenshot of US Weekly's "Fashion Police" feature on Amber Rose from 2009. Gossip magazines like, US Magazine—whose "Fashion Police" feature regularly points a critical finger at celebrity fashion faux-pas—have become wildly profitable because they publish less-than-flattering pictures that fuel the public’s revenge fantasy that celebrities people are really “just like us.” But, it’s still true that we still want to be more like them, and on that score the Internet’s there to help us, chipping away at the glamour and authority of fashion photography (which is not necessarily a bad thing) and changing the rules, yet again, about how photos are made, used, and change our lives in ways both big and small.

Categories: What Gets Saved
Tags: Web/Tech, Photo History, Film/Video, Fashion
Comments: View 2 comments, or Give us yours!
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Comments (2) – Leave a comment

justmaybe

TechCrunch featured this other service called Swagly. I think they have a pretty good model too.

justmaybe March 4, 2010 at 2:54 am
  • reply
Marvin Heiferman

Thanks for the tip. Wonders never cease, as it seems that with Swagly, your friends photos and videos can be scanned by people who then find sources to buy what your friends were wearing. But I wonder, wouldn't it be just as easy to call them up and ask them where they got what they were wearing?

Marvin Heiferman March 4, 2010 at 4:48 pm
  • reply

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